Couple of 20D questions

[markubig]

Trying to get used to my 20D . . . I've come across a few questions:

1) What is the exact purpose of RAW+JPEG setting? Do a lot of you shoot that format or just shoot plain RAW? When I hacked my Drebel, I did RAW+Small JPEG, but I noticed that I never did anything with the small JPEG file. So I'm wondering what you all do.


2) CFn-02: Long Exposure noise reduction. From the explanation in the manual, it sounds like this CF allows the camera to basically run a NR filter on an exposure of 1sec or more. Do you have this turned on or do you just rely on the NR software on your computer?


3) CFn-16: Safety Shift in Av or TV. Looks like it lets the camera change the respective shutter speed or aperture (depending on what mode you're in) in order to get a proper exposure. What are your experiences with this CF enabled? Is it a good thing to have it on?


Thanks, in advance, for your assistance.

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[Dante King]

Trying to get used to my 20D . . . I've come across a few questions:

1) What is the exact purpose of RAW+JPEG setting? Do a lot of you shoot that format or just shoot plain RAW? When I hacked my Drebel, I did RAW+Small JPEG, but I noticed that I never did anything with the small JPEG file. So I'm wondering what you all do.
I found that when I am lazy this allows me to save alot of time in post processing when my settings are spot on. Other than that I find it only to be a big waste of space on the CF and normally shoot RAW only.

2) CFn-02: Long Exposure noise reduction. From the explanation in the manual, it sounds like this CF allows the camera to basically run a NR filter on an exposure of 1sec or more. Do you have this turned on or do you just rely on the NR software on your computer?
I have it on and find that itr helps on long exposures at high iso or a long series of exposures that might cause the sensor to heat up a bit

3) CFn-16: Safety Shift in Av or TV. Looks like it lets the camera change the respective shutter speed or aperture (depending on what mode you're in) in order to get a proper exposure. What are your experiences with this CF enabled? Is it a good thing to have it on?

I have this on as I am a bone head and prone to mess up
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[CyberDyneSystems]

3. I hate safety shift,.. it messes me up.

2. Never used it,. but I don't use long shutters often either.

1. I shoot RAW only. If you have breezebrowser,. you can extract an approx 2 MP jpeg from your RAW files anyway.. if I ever needed such a thing,. I know it's in the RAW file anyway.

[robertwgross]

In my 20D, I shoot RAW only.

However, I can think of a few situations where you might want to shoot RAW+JPEG.

Suppose you were shooting a lot of some auto race, say 1000-2000 images. You might want to have both image types produced and stored simultaneously so that you can have the JPEG ones viewed quickly by an editor. Then if the editor picks out any great ones, the RAW files are available for full-blown post processing.

Suppose that you were shooting a wedding, say 400-500 images. You might want to have both image types the same way so that you can whip out some fast JPEG proofs to the B&G in a hurry. Then the RAW files can be manipulated and coaxed for full effect.

---Bob Gross---

[PJ Saine]

1) What is the exact purpose of RAW+JPEG setting? Do a lot of you shoot that format or just shoot plain RAW? When I hacked my Drebel, I did RAW+Small JPEG, but I noticed that I never did anything with the small JPEG file. So I'm wondering what you all do.

Your file format choice will be determined by how you intend to use the images.

Other uses for shooting Raw + .jpg:

1. You need quick & dirty image to preview quickly
(example: Photoshop Browser reads .jpgs quickly: do your first rough sort using .jpgs, then spend time making final edit decisions in your Raw conversion process)

2. You need to send/use the image in time sensitive assignment, but want 'highest quality' option for final repsoduction
(example: shooting wedding or event - use .jpgs for a projected show the day of the event- keeping raw for great prints)

3. You have selected In-Camera B&W - and want to shoot raw to cover yourself with a color image. Note: If you shoot B&W .jpg, you won't be able to 'put the color back in'.

Keep in touch -

PJ
www.pjsaine.com

[markubig]

thanks guys . . . i'll keep some of those situations in mind for RAW+Jpeg . . .

[CyberDyneSystems]

3. You have selected In-Camera B&W - and want to shoot raw to cover yourself with a color image. Note: If you shoot B&W .jpg, you won't be able to 'put the color back in'.


Wow,. great Idea!

[tim]

I prefer B&W images made in PS, you have more control and generally end up with a nicer image. Maybe shooting RAW+small JPG would be good to give you an idea what it'd look like in B&W.

I converted 140 images from RAW to Full size JPG last night, it took about 20 minutes on my Athlon 3500+. If you were doing news or needed fast turnaround RAW+sml would be a great idea.

I shoot just RAW myself, because i'm not in that much of a hurry.

[gasrocks]

Yes, RAW + Jpg is great for finding the RAW you want to play with. Safety Shift? I tell my students to turn it off. I am in charge, I have selected what I want, I do not want the camera to override that decision - of course, that assumes I know what I am doing.

[BillH2]

Since I don't have my 20D yet, is on way, and am a newbe, can someone explain "safety shift" and what is it or what it does?

[lancea]

can someone explain "safety shift" and what is it or what it does?
This is one of the custom function settings that, to quote the 20D manual, "works in shutter-priority AE (Tv) and aperture-priority AE (Av) modes. If the subject's brightness changes suddenly and the current shutter speed or aperture becomes unsuitable, the shutter speed or aperture is shifted automatically to obtain a suitable exposure."

I use P mode at least 90% of the time, but not sure I'd want to have my settings changed in the Tv or Av modes - even if the sun did come out from behind a cloud.

[Jon]

Safety Shift's also good when picking up the camera for a new session under radically different conditions than what you were last working under. For instance, last night you jumped the ISO to 3200 for that available darkness shot. Now you're surfacing at high noon, the camera's set at Av, f/2.8, and you're hard at work . . . Oops, or Safety Shift? With that much mismatch, RAW isn't going to help much.

It's there for when you forget to check your exposure, even though we always do before every shot. I'd rather have the camera save the exposure at different aperture/shutter than I wanted than miss the shot due to messed up exposure.