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View Full Version : CF4-1 vs. CF4-3


Mike H
24th of April 2005 (Sun), 07:33
I recently read the VERY long (but productive) thread on using the * button to focus (instead of the shutter release). Interestingly, almost everyone that liked this switch went with CF4-1, rather than CF4-3. For those using the * button to focus, what made you decide to use CF4-1 instead of CF4-3? Thanks.

Mike H

PacAce
24th of April 2005 (Sun), 07:56
I used to use C.Fn-04=1 a while ago because I thought I liked the fact that i could focus using the "*" button and AE lock the exposure by pressing the shutter button. The expsure remained locked as long as the shutter button was pressed. However, after I started doing a lot of birds-in-flight shots and shooting several frames in sequence while tracking the bird, I realized that locking the expsosure wasn't necessarily a good thing, considering how the lighting can change from one moment to another. That's when I switched to C.Fn-04=03 wherein the exposure is determined when the picture is actually taken.

primoz
24th of April 2005 (Sun), 09:02
Since I'm shooting sport with manual there's no need for AE lock and that's reason why I'm using cf 4-3 :) But it's easy to change so if I do need AE lock, I switch to cf4-1, which doesn't happen to often anyway.

HJMinard
24th of April 2005 (Sun), 09:04
I agree with Leo ... for a moving subject CFn-04=3 is the way to go. CFn-04=1 will work, too, as long as you remember to not hold the button down (half press) while tracking your subject ... then when you press the shutter a new exposure is locked in the current position. CFn-04=3 kind of "idiot proofs" the situation, however.

For static subjects, I prefer the "1" setting for the usual AE lock capabilities.

CyberDyneSystems
24th of April 2005 (Sun), 12:02
I find I keep it in 4-1 by default and switch to 4-3 when I anticepate the need..

It's a tough call,. I do like to be able to meter and recompose.. which is far easier to do with 4-1.

The reality is that different situations really do benifit from a different setting in this case. If only that CF#4 could be switched from 1 to 3 on the fly!

CyberDyneSystems
24th of April 2005 (Sun), 12:05
Since I'm shooting sport with manual there's no need for AE lock and that's reason why I'm using cf 4-3 :) But it's easy to change so if I do need AE lock, I switch to cf4-1, which doesn't happen to often anyway.


Now I feel stupid,.. if shooting in manual,. then how does 4-1 vs. 4-3 even matter?
If there is no exposure to set either way? then how does the different setting effect your shooting at all?

Does one work faster (as in focusing or shutter release) in manual?

Medic1
24th of April 2005 (Sun), 17:40
Sorry, soon to be 20D noob here...

I shoot mainly aviation photography. I need to switch quickly between tracking a fast moving subject (such as a military jet on a flyby) to a jet taxiing by at slower speeds, to a static aircraft. Which CF is best to go with.....judging by this post CF4-3 seems to be right for sport, will it work well with static subjects as well.

Haven't even gotten my 20D yet, but will only have less than a month to learn its ins/out before the next major airshow. Thought I would get a head start....

CyberDyneSystems
24th of April 2005 (Sun), 20:00
Just make sure you turn on CF 4-1 as soon as you get the camera,. don't leave it at the "0" setting as it will make getting used to using the * button to focus difficult in the future,..

You need to work with it for a while beofre you should worry about the 4-1 Vs. 4-3 setting..

I for one would think that 4-1 would be perfect for the planes in most circumstance,.

One simple trick to allecite the 4-1 Vs. 4-3 issue is to not use "burst mode" but to make sure you lift your finger off the shutter far enough for it to "unlock" the exposure before taking a second shot.

Medic1
24th of April 2005 (Sun), 21:57
Just make sure you turn on CF 4-1 as soon as you get the camera,. don't leave it at the "0" setting as it will make getting used to using the * button to focus difficult in the future,..

You need to work with it for a while beofre you should worry about the 4-1 Vs. 4-3 setting..

I for one would think that 4-1 would be perfect for the planes in most circumstance,.

One simple trick to allecite the 4-1 Vs. 4-3 issue is to not use "burst mode" but to make sure you lift your finger off the shutter far enough for it to "unlock" the exposure before taking a second shot.

Thanks CDS....the 20D is coming soon....just want to pad my bank balance a little first so it doesn't look like such a bit hit...lol

Pretty soon I will be posting 20D Noob questions.....

cmM
25th of April 2005 (Mon), 08:14
I like the 4-1, but a lot of times I'll be shooting with both my 20D and the Rebel, and there's no CF4 on the rebel, so it's confusing. After shooting for a while with the 300D when I first put my 100-400 on the 20D I nearly sent i back to B&H cause I though it wouldn't focus :D

Vegas Poboy
25th of April 2005 (Mon), 09:15
With sports I like the control of the CF4-1 function, not likely to hit the shutter as much when I get excited.