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eaglesnest
19th of May 2009 (Tue), 20:01
I met some bird photographers using flash combined with "Better Beamer" I just wonder how effective is this device plus when you're shooting at 1/640 sec or faster, how/will the flash synchronize to the shutter? Is 1/160 sec the fastest speed synchronized?

sandpiper
19th of May 2009 (Tue), 20:09
You should be able to get a little better sync speed than 1/160th when using a speedlite on camera, depending on model of camera.

You can get 1/640th (or any speed) by enabling High Speed Sync on the flash, which fires a rapid burst of flashes so the whole frame is exposed, without showing the trailing shutter curtain.

The problem with HSS is that you get less power, as the flash can't fire one big flash then recharge. This reduces the range, which the better beamer will help increase a little.

BradM
20th of May 2009 (Wed), 08:05
Here is a link to a little article about the use of high speed sync (HSS) on a flash head: http://www.rpphoto.com/howto/view.asp?articleID=1026

And while using the flash in HSS lowers the overall output the Better Beamer will roughly add a couple stops worth of light back to the output (dependent on Guide Number (GN) rating, aperture, ISO and FEC).

And when you are using the flash only for fill that works out to a possible range much more than is usually ever needed and certainly more than a flash head alone is capable of.

Doubling ISO increases the GN by a factor of 1.4, dropping flash exposure by a stop also increases the GN by the same 1.4 factor. So it is quite easy to use a flash to fill for distances where one normally wouldn't even bother taking a shot of a subject, like several hundred feet. The Beamer is an excellent tool to have at hand when needed.

Shots taken when using fill flash often require a bit more time and work in post production to reduce the evidence of using fill, often eyes or other body parts will have reflective elements that are clear indicators that flash was used. These can be easily mitigated in most cases resulting in very good images that otherwise weren't possible under the conditions as they were at the time of the capture.

jnbradley
22nd of May 2009 (Fri), 10:26
How do you "aim" the flash head to coincide with the point you see through the lens? I assume the BB concentrates the light in a sort of spotlight effect- it seems you could easily have the "spotlight" aimed off target. And wouldn't the head angle have to change between very close subjects and those farther away?

Is this done by trial and error chimping??

Jim

BradM
22nd of May 2009 (Fri), 12:00
The flash head is already designed to put light on the subject, so you don't have to aim anything. The beemer straps to the head and places the center of its lens over the center of the flash head. It maybe off a degree or two but that is really irrelevant.

When using a BB you set you flash head to a zoom length of 50mm, consider the angle of lighting that is available at that point when using just a straight flash, the area covered is pretty considerable.

Now the "lens" of a bb is a fresnel type, so it is concentrating the light into a smaller area. But even it is an eigth of the area that a 50mm flash covers this still much larger than a bird at some 40 feet or whatever, and of course the further the subject the greater the spread of light (and the less output, inverse square still applies).

And as a fill you really don't need much additional light, a least a stop or less, usually closer to two stops down from ambient is all you need to lift the shadows or equalize the back lighting.

On close subjects however, the bb is overkill. An un-aided flash head will work well just like it does on lifting shadows on a portrait or even a landscape scene. If under roughly 30 feet for me with a 580 head, I won't bother with the bb, I just be sure the it is zoomed to the 105mm and throw some light out there.

Chimping can come into play, if I am using fill I am always starting at -1 2/3rd's of a stop, seems to be a rough starting place that usually gives decent results. Often though dependent of the lighting that can change either direction easily a stop so checking for blown highlights or worse yet IMO the flash look is important.

Did this make sense? Hope so.

smclaren
8th of June 2009 (Mon), 02:23
I met some bird photographers using flash combined with "Better Beamer" I just wonder how effective is this device plus when you're shooting at 1/640 sec or faster, how/will the flash synchronize to the shutter? Is 1/160 sec the fastest speed synchronized?


Mine is fitted to a 580 ex ii on a 5D mark ii, I use it for fill light with my wildlife photography.

I usually shot at about 1/1000 for the bigger birds like herons (see flickr) I got it because the fill light in lightroom 2.3 introduced too much noise.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/smclaren/


As ideas go, this is one of the simplest I have ever come across, it can be fitted in seconds, and the effective range is more than I can use, and for a cost of around £25 it is a no brianer.

S

Blue Deuce
8th of June 2009 (Mon), 20:44
I find it effective but seldom use it because I notice a greater incidence of steel eye as opposed to just flash alone.

Scottes
10th of June 2009 (Wed), 12:03
Yep, I lost bunch of osprey shots to steel eye due to the better beamer.

However, it did help - particularly when they're flying above with the sun above them.

smclaren
12th of June 2009 (Fri), 11:48
I find it effective but seldom use it because I notice a greater incidence of steel eye as opposed to just flash alone.


May I ask what steel eye is? And is the any way of correcting it in lightroom?

Thanks

CyberDyneSystems
12th of June 2009 (Fri), 11:53
It's the Bird equivalent of "Red Eye" or when the flash catches the eye in an unnatural way..

The BB works and works well.
You can happily use it with hi speed synch, as the amount of light you want is minimal,.. for fill flash.

Dialing in -1 thru -2 full stops of FEC is preferred to help prevent giving the image a "flash look"

butterfly2937
12th of June 2009 (Fri), 12:02
There is also another option that works very well with a little less bulk.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/523902-REG/MilaGrid_TG1_TeleGrid_Telephoto_Flash_Extender.htm l

Scottes
12th of June 2009 (Fri), 13:19
There is also another option that works very well with a little less bulk.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/523902-REG/MilaGrid_TG1_TeleGrid_Telephoto_Flash_Extender.htm l
Looks like a $4 fresnel lens with $.20 worth of velcro.

It's definitely more compact, but I can't see it having the reach of a better beamer.

smclaren
13th of June 2009 (Sat), 04:47
It's the Bird equivalent of "Red Eye" or when the flash catches the eye in an unnatural way..

The BB works and works well.
You can happily use it with hi speed synch, as the amount of light you want is minimal,.. for fill flash.

Dialing in -1 thru -2 full stops of FEC is preferred to help prevent giving the image a "flash look"


Thanks, I am really having fun with the BB.

cspratt
5th of August 2009 (Wed), 18:18
Which way does the fresnel part of the plastic face? Does it face towards the flash or subject?

Scottes
5th of August 2009 (Wed), 19:03
Rough side toward the flash, smooth side toward the subject.

equetefue
10th of August 2009 (Mon), 02:07
so do I decrease the flash intensity on the flash or the camera ?

Also what other setting besides setting the flash head to 50mm and selecting the HSS ?

WinMan
13th of August 2009 (Thu), 19:51
I have a BB. It works great. Has a big learning curve from a technique standpoint. You cant just rapid fire and hope you get a good shot. You have to consider the recharge rate of your flash. With bird photography this is extremely hard to do for me.

This pic was with a BB.

http://sharb.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p700209830-5.jpg

cspratt
13th of August 2009 (Thu), 20:08
Great shot!

Stormin_24
15th of August 2009 (Sat), 15:50
Awesome shot..

equetefue
15th of August 2009 (Sat), 19:01
any tips on using the beamer.... I came out with underexposed shots last week.

What meter should I use and what Ev are the norm ?

WinMan
15th of August 2009 (Sat), 22:18
For shooting in the day, you need to have high speed shutter sync turned on. If your subject is somewhat close, aiming of the flash head is critical. I am still new to using it. When I do things right, the results are wonderful. More times than enough, I screw up though.

equetefue
15th of August 2009 (Sat), 23:03
what metering did you use... ?

WinMan
15th of August 2009 (Sat), 23:43
manual

equetefue
15th of August 2009 (Sat), 23:53
evaluative, spot, etc

WinMan
16th of August 2009 (Sun), 00:31
dont remember

HYBEagle
18th of August 2009 (Tue), 20:00
I have a BB. It works great. Has a big learning curve from a technique standpoint. You cant just rapid fire and hope you get a good shot. You have to consider the recharge rate of your flash. With bird photography this is extremely hard to do for me.

This pic was with a BB.

http://sharb.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p700209830-5.jpg

Wonderful shot, that a 400 5.6 ?

Chris
19th of August 2009 (Wed), 12:12
Ask AndrewHuxman. He uses the BB a lot for his bird shots.

CyberDyneSystems
19th of August 2009 (Wed), 12:33
evaluative, spot, etc

I use Either Partial or Eval to dial in a good exposure for the scene, then usually set manual to lock it in.
Meter the way you would to get a good exposure of the scene without a flash.. the flash should not alter your exposure method when it is used for "fill"

Then set the FEC to minus 2/3 - minus 2 full stops, and experiment.. ( I Usually set FEC on camera, simply because I am more used to adjusting everything on camera since I don;t shoot flash too often)

All of the above goes out the window when you try to use the flash as your main light... :)

Here is a shot taken on a grey snowy day, subject "backlit" (in quotes due to the overall diffuse nature of the cloud covered light ) .
The shots without the beamer lacked color and detail, everything was dull grey.
Note the relative darkness of the log, where the Beamer was less focused, this was the bird as well without the beamer.
The beamer brought out the color and did away with dark shadowy areas, and made the eyes pop.
I shot this @ 800mm with the Sigmonster.

http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=yeem7q&outx=600&noresize=1

CyberDyneSystems
19th of August 2009 (Wed), 12:42
A few more taken on snowy grey days where the color is saved via Better Beamer;

http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=yefyt3&outx=600&noresize=1

http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=yex0wg&outx=600&noresize=1

this one, IMHO I seriously could have used more flash, I had the FEC set to low;
http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=ypwzcl&outx=600&noresize=1

WinMan
22nd of August 2009 (Sat), 16:26
Wonderful shot, that a 400 5.6 ?

100-400

chauncey
19th of September 2009 (Sat), 19:00
OK, these are what I like to shoot http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=748258
These were shot from about 100 yards...playing the "sneak closer" is beyond my abilities.

I use a 300 f/2.8, w/wo a TC, mounted on a Ds3 and I don't have a flash.
Using a BB with a flash...will the recharge rate of the flash unit keep up with the camera's buffer and allow me to shoot series like these?
Would a flash unit benefit me and which one?

BradM
19th of September 2009 (Sat), 19:13
Looking to get fill light to 100 yards is asking a bit much, it isn't impossible but 30 to 40 yards is about the maximum.

And then looking to get it to cycle quickly at higher shutter speeds for multiple shots means using high speed sync which reduces flash output considerably.

So in answer to the specific question, can you use a BB to get shots like those in the other thread at 100 yards. No, it is very, very unlikely to work.

If the distance is down to under 40 yards then it might be possible to get several frames using a higher output flash unit like the 580EX or EXII.

wayne_eddy
23rd of October 2009 (Fri), 22:41
I have a BB and use it a bit. My technique is to use it as a marginal fill flash and have gotten fill at up to 30m with the 430ex on HSS.

I've fixed the steel eye by selecting the eye in CS4 and then either adjusting levels or mostly using the brightness contrast tool. This works well for birds with dark eyes though I don't recall using it for birds with light or golden eyes. Should work quite well though.

wayne_eddy
28th of November 2009 (Sat), 11:20
Yep, I lost bunch of osprey shots to steel eye due to the better beamer.

However, it did help - particularly when they're flying above with the sun above them.

Steel eye can be eliminated by selecting the eye with the circular selection tool and then adding some levels and/or brightness/contrast adj.

For birds with darker eye, I tend to prefer a bit of Steel Eye as I can easily adj it down to a manageable level.

Morlow
19th of January 2010 (Tue), 15:07
Does everyone just mount the flash on the camera hot shoe? I'm just curious if with a large lens like the 500 f/4, if the lens hood will be in the way of the flash getting to the subject?

wayne_eddy
19th of January 2010 (Tue), 17:26
Does everyone just mount the flash on the camera hot shoe? I'm just curious if with a large lens like the 500 f/4, if the lens hood will be in the way of the flash getting to the subject?

You can get an arm to raise the flash above the camera some or even to the side. I have a arm with a ball head in it that I'd like to try some day soon.

BradM
19th of January 2010 (Tue), 20:42
A flash bracket that mounts (usually) to the tripod foot of the super-teles is the most commonly used. It holds the flash forward of the camera and a few inches above the lens barrel.

Using one of these allows the photog to shoot in any attitude with the camera body but still leaving the flash centered above the lens. It also moves the flash further off-center of the lens barrel to help reduce red-eye.

However, with the 500mm f/4 for example, it is still possible to use a shoe mounted flash without the lens hood creating any lighting issue down to about the min. focus distance.

equetefue
19th of January 2010 (Tue), 20:43
^^

http://s152588970.onlinehome.us/PiCs/Lenses/0021.jpg

Kafn8td
20th of January 2010 (Wed), 15:38
^^nice setup.

Methodical
20th of January 2010 (Wed), 22:34
I use mine both ways; on the hotshoe or with a flash bracket. When I have the flash mounted on the hotshoe I can still take the lens from the tripod and handhold shots. I've yet to have any problems with it mounted on the hotshoe.

Does everyone just mount the flash on the camera hot shoe? I'm just curious if with a large lens like the 500 f/4, if the lens hood will be in the way of the flash getting to the subject?

FrankfurtDave
24th of January 2010 (Sun), 02:10
Real newbie question here, sorry about that.

Does the use of any flash not scare/irritate the Birds?

I am assuming not, based on how many of you do it and how much it is recommended, but I am just a little surprised.

Canon Bob
24th of January 2010 (Sun), 04:09
Real newbie question here, sorry about that.

Does the use of any flash not scare/irritate the Birds?

I am assuming not, based on how many of you do it and how much it is recommended, but I am just a little surprised.



I had the same concerns initially but now use a "beamer" quite often. I'm usually shooting from about 8m (garden setup) and I don't see any change in behaviour when the flash fires.

Bob

wayne_eddy
24th of January 2010 (Sun), 09:34
Real newbie question here, sorry about that.

Does the use of any flash not scare/irritate the Birds?

I am assuming not, based on how many of you do it and how much it is recommended, but I am just a little surprised.

Most birds (from owls to egrets, flycatchers to finches, bee eaters to whatevers) don't seem to notice the beamer. The one bird I did find that noticed it was Robins (in Australia) At least two species immediatly appeared shocked, ruffeled their feathers, calmed and did the same each time the beamer went off. Each didn't fly off until I walked in closer an they noticed my presence and then flew away normally.