Two problems with Digital Rebel

[JasonMX]

I have noticed two consitant problems I have had while shooting with my D. Rebel. I have tried playing with diffrent settings, but haven't had luck.

#1. I have trouble getting photos in which the forground (usually trees, city, ocean) is in focus/bright and the clouds are too. Usually if I focus on the landscape the clouds aren't as sharp/colorful, and if I focus on the sky the clouds look perfect/sharp but the landscape is very dark. (almost black)

This is an example:

http://www.outphishing.com/photoalbums/caymanweb/images/sunset.jpg

#2. I have yet to be able to use the Av mode to effectively change appature to get really apparent DOF changes in pictures. I can go from F 2 thruogh 16, and each picture doesn't look different.

[trakmeister]

I don't think there is a problem with your camera.
Mike

[ryanberk]

#1 use m mode and spot meater at the dark point of your forground but if you do someing like that then your clouds will be blown out. you have to chouse forground or backgrond

[Jon, The Elder]

Better spend some quality time with your manual that you got with the camera!!

Learn about aperture and what it does affect. Also read up on what points are used for focusing and where/what/when of exposure settings.

You got a ways to go before you have legitimate complaints.

Also try to find your DOF preview button - you paid for it.

[JasonMX]

I know it's not the camera doing it. I just need some info on how to use the settings/modes to get some better shots. I have tried experimenting for about 6 months and have gotten much, much better but not great.

I rephrased the topic because I think it looked like I was blaming the camera which was unintentional.

Anyone know any FAQS for guides for helping in these situations?

[MTalley]

Item #1 is a standard problem that people encounter. One doesn't realize the amount of contrast between a setting sun and the ground below. To get a brighter foreground without blowing out the sky, you'll probably need a gradated neutral density filter, where the top half is dark glass, the bottom half is clear. This allows you to reduce the contrast between the two areas by a significant margin.

Optionally, if the foreground is close enough, you can use fill-in flash. However, a shoreline 200 feet away won't benefit from that method.

Item #2, depends on how close or far the focus point is, among other things. Theoretically, at a wide-open aperature (f/2, for example), you should have some blurring close up and far away, with whatever you've focused on in clear focus. Again, there are many other variables at play here, including how close the focused object is as opposed to the background and/or foreground.

A person standing one or two feet in front of a wall will be in focus, as will the wall, even with a very wide aperature, for example. The solution is to move the person away from the wall. Accordingly, depending on the subject matter, you'd have to make your own decisions. Moving away from the subject and zooming back in often helps, too. The kit 18-55mm lens might not be sufficient for that, depending on distances to everything.

[Dante King]

These types of shots are really tough as you see. I find that you need to make a composite. Take one shot metered and focused in the foreground, rememter and focus on the sky and then layer them together. Some great boosk out there to explain how to do this technique. Over all its a limitation of the sensor.

[jimsolt]

Anyone know any FAQS for guides for helping in these situations?

Try this (http://www.photoworkshop.com/canon/). It's not complete, but it might be a start for you.
Jim

[rammy]

I rephrased the topic because I think it looked like I was blaming the camera which was unintentional.

Anyone know any FAQS for guides for helping in these situations?

You should have rephrased it to "two problems with person taking shots with a camera". This has nothing to do with the 300D or any other camera for that matter. ;)

First problem, MTally explains well. Contrast and brightness across a "scene" when it varies by approx 2 stops, will ALWAYS force the metering system on the camera to "suggest" the "best fit". What I means by this is that the sky will be atleast 2 stops brighter than the earth. Unfortunately, there is no lens or camera that can "split" a scene across the CCD and allow the sensor to meter for both areas. You ultimately have to use filters or fake them in PhotoShop. Or take two seperate metered shots and combine them in PS.

Second query, you get good DOF when the following occurs:
1) Open up the aperture F5.6 to allow as much light as possible
2) This is the important bit, ZOOM IN on your subject. At the widest point of the Kit lens (18mm) you will get hardly any DOF. If you zoom in to approx 50mm or closer, the background blurs quite well.

Get a telephoto zoom that goes to something like 300mm. Then you can play with DOF all you like.

Read as much as you can of this site and then try again (oh and invest in filters):

"The Understanding Series" is the best place to start.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/

[PhotosGuy]

1. Shoot RAW
RawShooter has controls that would help with that situation.
Review & download link.
http://www.outbackphoto.com/artofraw/raw_18/essay.html

2. Take a look at these:
Beginners Guide to Photography: Short, easy articles for the absolute beginner.Just the basics to get you up and shooting.
http://www.photonhead.com/beginners

Imaging Resource Photo Lessons: free lessons that show you how to get professional-grade results.
http://www.irphotoschool.com/

Virtual Interactive Camera: The Flash-based Virtual Camera gives users hands-on experience operating an Single Lens Reflex (SLR) camera.
Four tutorials explain focusing, aperture, shutter speed and exposure.
http://www.camerasinteractive.com/index.php

Jodies Coston's Free Online Photography Course
http://www.morguefile.com/archive/classroom.php
Lesson 1: Composition And Impact - It's A Beautiful Photograph, But Do You Know WHY It's Beautiful?
Lesson 2: Aperture And Shutter Speed - How They Work Together.
Lesson 3: The lens - choosing camera optics.
Lesson 4: ISO, Grain, Transparency vs. Negative, Specialty Films
Lesson 5: Fun Effects - Camera Filters, Soft Focus, Zooming And Panning
Lesson 6: Landscape, Nature and Travel Photography
Lesson 7: Portraits And Studio Lighting
Lesson 8: Studio Lighting - Still Life and Product Photography
Lesson 9: Tying It All Together
Lesson 10: Special Requests

Good luck!

[SeanH]

LOL..........I love it when these guys think the camera is messed up.

....but to answer the question.
Get yourself a basic photo book,and pay close attention to the different DOF on lenses (focal lengths), understand how your camera see's light (18% gray), and maybe even pick up some reading on "the zone system". That should put you way ahead!!