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View Full Version : Oil Change and a Tuneup?


Mark_48
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 08:12
Does anyone here ever send their cameras out for a preventive maintenance checkup (cleaning, calibration, and operational checks)? I guess I'm aiming this post at those who derive income from their photo gear more than just the hobbiest shooter.

Or do you wait until a problem occurs?

I've a friend in the business and during slow times he'll send his cameras (Hasselblad and Canon film cameras) out for a check and cleaning. Wondering if there's any value in this for digital, even if it's maybe at a 2-3 year cycle. And what might be the cost from Canon or other vendors to do this.

Mark..........

Longwatcher
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 08:47
Given current progress in digital cameras, the odds are if you are a professional at this time. You are more likely to buy a new camera before needing to service the old one. That said, Now might be a good time to send a D30 for servicing if you still have one, as Canon is apparently dropping support for it in software, which means you are not going to be able to have it serviced either for too much longer by Canon. I suspect others may pick up the servicing in the future.

Lenses are another story and some professionals send them in when the get a new camera to have them calibrated to the new camera and serviced.

From my understanding there is little reason to send in unless you are having problems.

With film cameras it was a bit different since they lasted for years before needing replacement.

Just my opinion and what little experience I have (I have only sent in one camera for servicing, but have had to send in two lenses)

Pamela107
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 11:43
Yes, I do send my Higher end cameras out every 1-2 yrs for cleaning and check ups.

To help prevent disasters

Thankyou
Pamela

Andy_T
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 12:34
You can do the oil change yourself, it's pretty easy.

- Put adhesive tape over the openings of your camera (CF door, ports, viewfinder)
- remove the lens and put the camera on the table with the lens side facing up
- pour about 200 ml (400 ml for 1-series) of performance grade engine oil into the opening (use fully synthetic oil, 10W50)
- put body cap on and shake for about 30 seconds
- remove body cap and pour excessive oil from camera, remove adhesive tape
- finished! Your camera is now ready for the next 2-3 years.

Best regards,
Andy

merrrrjig
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 12:49
You can do the oil change yourself, it's pretty easy.

- Put adhesive tape over the openings of your camera (CF door, ports, viewfinder)
- remove the lens and put the camera on the table with the lens side facing up
- pour about 200 ml (400 ml for 1-series) of performance grade engine oil into the opening (use fully synthetic oil, 10W50)
- put body cap on and shake for about 30 seconds
- remove body cap and pour excessive oil from camera, remove adhesive tape
- finished! Your camera is now ready for the next 2-3 years.

Best regards,
Andy

Some newb is gunna do that and get pissed

Mark_48
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 13:18
Can a lighter weight oil be used in colder weather? And do you really recommend the synthetics over petroleum based products? :grin:

Andy_T
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 14:50
Some newb is gunna do that and get pissed

Yup ... roanjohn ... and he even confused engine oil and salt water :twisted:

As to the oil specifications ... I am afraid lighter weight oil might have a negative impact on low ISO noise.

Best regards,
Andy

Redbird_xo
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 21:40
Some newb is gunna do that and get pissed

I'm a newbie and I actually find Andy's comment pretty hilarious. Of course, others might not share this lighthearted sense of humor the way I did. ;)

bauerman
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 22:00
If you are over 30,000 shutter clicks - you probably should use a synthetic oil or one specifically formulated for 'higher mileage" cameras.......

IainB
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 22:15
try antifreeze and you'll surely blur your shots...

markubig
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 23:13
try antifreeze and you'll surely blur your shots...don't forget to dilute prior to pouring it in.

Also, a good wax and polish will always be good on the camera body. I prefer products from 3M & Meguiars, but TurtleWax is just as effective.

http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/images/smilies/icon_lol.gifhttp://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/images/smilies/icon_lol.gifhttp://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif

.

sixshot
28th of April 2005 (Thu), 23:27
Cheers merrrrjig, I only have an old EOS 300 but after a good oiling it seems ok. And bauerman, thanks for mileage tip, the synthetic oil worked a treat. It runs far smoother and a little faster. Any other tweaks you can reccommend?

Mark_48
29th of April 2005 (Fri), 06:37
try antifreeze and you'll surely blur your shots...
Make sure it's the environmentally friendly variety..........

Roach711
29th of April 2005 (Fri), 07:25
<<Some newb is gunna do that and get pissed>>

Do not underestimate the power of stupidity.

Years ago a buddy was doing an oil change on his new car and wondered why the manual called for only 5 quarts when he easily got 10 into the engine. Of course when he started it up every seal in the engine blew.

To paraphrase Murphy' Law: If something stupid CAN be done, it WILL be done."

Da Roach

PhotosGuy
29th of April 2005 (Fri), 19:33
To paraphrase Murphy' Law: If something stupid CAN be done, it WILL be done."
If you're going to do it, I recommend Valvoline 40wt racing oil!

aam1234
29th of April 2005 (Fri), 19:57
Kidding aside, I think Mark has a point. And I for one was thinking the same. Wish there is a place to send our sensors for clean-up. Hmm, do I smell a business opportunity there.

pierrot
30th of April 2005 (Sat), 08:27
You can do the oil change yourself, it's pretty easy.
Well, not that much!

Here in Paris I can't find any oil filter with an EF mount (and I don't even tried for an EF-S version)... :mrgreen:

And I suspect my 20d body to be defective from the day I bought it, since there is a threaded hole under it (apparently for a 1/4" screw) in which I think the oil drain plug should be placed.
Do you think I'm using my camera from the very beginning without lubrication? :shock:

gsmx2
30th of April 2005 (Sat), 09:10
And I suspect my 20d body to be defective from the day I bought it, since there is a threaded hole under it (apparently for a 1/4" screw) in which I think the oil drain plug should be placed.
Do you think I'm using my camera from the very beginning without lubrication? :shock:

Your camera is fine. That threaded hole is for the optional oil drain hose that can be found at http://www.canon.com/uselessaccessories/ It allows you to drain the oil into an environmentally safe container instead of having to shake it our of the front of the camera onto rags. It does require an modification that can be done easily with the 1/8" hardened drill bit that is included with the kit. Just make sure you use the screw that is also included with the kit once you've drilled the hole in the bottom of your 20D.

GSMx2

Incomplete Pete
30th of April 2005 (Sat), 10:17
The agency I shoot for sends their bodies over to the local Canon Pro repair centre once a year for a clean and tune to make sure everything is perfect.

Perfect_10
2nd of May 2005 (Mon), 14:46
... And do you really recommend the synthetics over petroleum based products? ...

I think petroleum based products would melt the plastic bodies of the 300D and XT :lol: :lol:

billsh
2nd of May 2005 (Mon), 15:09
What's the recommended cycle for filter changes. Every 3 months might be too soon, but surely every 6 months. BTW, I recycle filters. If anyone is changing out their old ND or polarizers, I'll pay for the shipping.

Bill