G9- white balance, range suggestions?

[chisel]

Shot at default/auto settings with a G9. It's 1/160 at f 4, iso 80.
JPG, highest resolution settings. I didn't touch this except to resample.

Any suggestions for this type of shot to keep the bright areas from burning out? Should I set up a custom profile in the camera, and if so, what sort of settings should I consider? Or is the only solution to shoot raw and put more time into post processing?

TIA,

[CJinAustin]

In a picture like this I would just shoot with the histogram on (might not see it in Auto mode) and if the highlights clip in the histogram I would lower the exposure setting.

[tmwag]

I'd shoot in Av mode and tighten the aperture for better dof. I shoot raw most of the time and pp isn't that time consuming.

[GordonSBuck]

If you are willing to consider RAW then you might consider first using Av mode, watch the histogram, etc. Even so, exposure is often a compromise and either the dark or light areas must be lost.

For that particular scene, in hindsight a polarizing filter might have been helpful -- depending on how you feel about reflections in the water.

Given that you've already got the shot, try taking it into Photoshop and using the Shadows/Highlights recovery routine.

[MarKap77]

I'm a bit perplexed as to why it has been suggested to use Av mode. Any mode that has an automatic component is not going to change the light level reaching the sensor, it will only change the shutter to aperture relationship. Forcing the aperture to f/16 from f/8 will cause the shutter speed to drop from 1/125 to 1/30, but the exposure is the same.

Now, to combat this high dynamic range in the original image, you could use a gradient neutral density filter to even out the dynamic range from the light part to the dark part of the image. Otherwise, you just have to live with it and expose for the best result of high to low light.

Regards

[GordonSBuck]

I'm a bit perplexed as to why it has been suggested to use Av mode.
Regards

True, P or Tv or M mode would also include exposure compensation; however, Auto mode does not allow exposure compensation. Auto mode also does not include RAW.

[chisel]

I'll RTM today on using histogram in P, Tv, M.

Now, to combat this high dynamic range in the original image, you could use a gradient neutral density filter to even out the dynamic range from the light part to the dark part of the image. How do I use a filter on the G9?

[tmwag]

Any mode that has an automatic component is not going to change the light level reaching the sensor, it will only change the shutter to aperture relationship. Forcing the aperture to f/16 from f/8 will cause the shutter speed to drop from 1/125 to 1/30, but the exposure is the same.


You can adjust exposure compensation in Av mode. I don't think anyone was forcing the aperture to f/16 or suggesting it?

[chisel]

I'll RTM today on using histogram in P, Tv, M.

How do I use a filter on the G9?
edit- ok, I found it. It's a built-in option. More stuff to read in the manual. :lol:

[GordonSBuck]

edit- ok, I found it. It's a built-in option. More stuff to read in the manual. :lol:

The built-in neutral density filter won't help. You needed a *graduated* neutral density filter rotated to the appropriate angle.

There is such an extreme difference of lighting for that scene that you should return at a different time of day. For like situations in which the picture must be taken at that moment, I suggest bracketing exposure and combining the best of each image or even using HDR techniques.

[chisel]

For like situations in which the picture must be taken at that moment, I suggest bracketing exposure and combining the best of each image or even using HDR techniques.Yes, studying the manual today, I was thinking the same thing. The G9 autobracketing seems good enough to do that.

Looks like I have some more stuff to learn. :lol:

[MarKap77]

You can adjust exposure compensation in Av mode. I don't think anyone was forcing the aperture to f/16 or suggesting it?

Okay, here is the part I don't understand. You CAN NOT adjust the exposure simply by using Av mode.

In Av mode, you can change the aperture, but since this is an automatic mode, the camera will change the shutter speed giving you the exact same exposure. In Tv mode, you can change the shutter speed, but the camera will adjust the aperture giving the exact same exposure.

In some of the first responses to the question posed, how to expose for the very high dynamic range in the inage in the original post, you said, I'd shoot in Av mode and tighten the aperture for better dof. I shoot raw most of the time and pp isn't that time consuming. but made no reference to using exposure compensation. Consequently, this answer failed to address the question. Just switching to Av mode will do nothing to balance out he exposure of the light and dark areas in the original image. In fact, even using exposure compensation will not correct the problem depicted, a dynamic range beyond the capabilities of the camera.

Then, GordonSBuck made this comment: you might consider first using Av mode, watch the histogram, etc.Again, this fails to address the question.

The net effect of these posts is to give the original poster the misconception that the camera is capable of capturing this image. It is, in fact, not possible, without resorting to one or more advanced techniques to balance out the exposure.

The answer to the question is "It isn't possible to capture an image such as the one posted and have all of the image be properly exposed. The dynamic range shown is beyond the capability of a G9. You can, however, either in post processing or by using a graduated neutral density filter, or doing a multi-exposure high dynamic range composite, even out the exposure in the image so that the bright portions are not blown out and the dark portions are not underexposed."

By the way, thanks to GordonSBuck for correcting me on the name, "gradient" neutral density filter.

[GordonSBuck]

Okay, here is the part I don't understand. You CAN NOT adjust the exposure simply by using Av mode.


Of course, you are correct about equivalent exposures but exposure compensation is not available in Auto mode and is available in Av mode (and P, Tv, M as well). I should have given a more complete instruction by noting to use exposure compensation while in Av mode.

Another variation (even in Auto) would be to use the "half shutter button press" method to get exposure from the bright (or dark depending on what you decide to sacrifice) areas, recompose and finish the shot.

[MarKap77]

Of course, you are correct about equivalent exposures but exposure compensation is not available in Auto mode and is available in Av mode (and P, Tv, M as well). I should have given a more complete instruction by noting to use exposure compensation while in Av mode.

Another variation (even in Auto) would be to use the "half shutter button press" method to get exposure from the bright (or dark depending on what you decide to sacrifice) areas, recompose and finish the shot.

GordonSBuck,

Please reread my posts. Nowhere do I suggest using "Auto" mode. I stated that using Any mode that has an automatic component is not going to change the light level reaching the sensor. Auto (green box), Program (P), Shutter priority (Tv), and Aperture priority (AV) are all "automatic modes". In each case except full auto, the camera decides the exposure and sets either the shutter speed or aperture to give the exposure that the camera's metering system decides is correct based upon the metering selection. In each of these modes, the same amount of light will be allowed to reach the cameras imaging sensor. In Auto mode, the camera also takes control of ISO and could make a further adjustment, which means the amount of light that reaches the sensor is completely variable, again, based upon the camera's metering system's internal algorithms.

HOWERVER, in none of these situations will the camera be able to correctly capture the exposer shown because it it is beyond the camera's ability to do so. Chisel, in the original post, asked how to correctly expose the image. Talk of Av mode and exposure compensation does not help chisel to understand the limits of his camera nor what steps must be taken to do what he wants to do. Further, setting an exposure by metering for a portion of the image and then recomposing will not solve chisel's problem, because there is still too high of a dynamic range of light for the camera to successfully expose all of the areas in that image.

The only way to successfully produce an image in the conditions shown is to either use a gradient neutral density filter to darken the brighter areas of the image, or to do a high dynamic range merge of multiple images. Using a gradient neutral density filter is relatively easy, but still beyond the ability of most amateur photographers, and a high dynamic range merge is really high level post processing. Again, not something that an amateur is going to be able to accomplish easily

By the way, exposure compensation is NOT available in manual mode (M), since the photographer is controlling the exposure by taking full control of ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. To add exposure control in those cases would take away the photographer's ability to fully control the depth of field, or the ability to freeze motion/blur motion, which is why selection Manual would have been done in the first place.

[GordonSBuck]

GordonSBuck,

Please reread my posts. Nowhere do I suggest using "Auto" mode.

Right, you did not say Auto mode.

Please continue to help the OP, I'm done here.

[chisel]

This has all been very helpful. I'm experimenting with Dynamic Photo HDR and Photomatrix. If I can get back to the site to reshoot it this week I'll post the results.

Thanks all!

[jacuff]

Timing is everything. That shot might work better at a different time of day. A CPL or GNDF might help. Good luck.
+1.

Yeah, it's less about the settings on the camera and more about paying attention to the light. Going early in the morning or late in the evening or during a heavy overcast day is your best time to go. Just look to see if the lighting is fairly even or do you have bright spots of light such as the posted photo does.

Also f/4 on the G9 near the wider angle provides quite a bit of depth of field. You could stop down to f/5.6 or f/8, but you'd almost be wasting light.

For your shot, a Split or Grad ND filter could have helped, though not a whole lot. The final photo would still leaving you wanting to come back another time when the light is more even. A circular polarizer could help to get rid of the reflection in the pool if you want it gone. The glare in the pool could have been lessened a lot if you used a CPL in your posted shot. If you go back to that spot when the lighting is more even, try with and without a CPL.