D30 flash sync

[cseeber]

Looks like my D30 has the dreaded flash sync problem.
I have searched the forums and the only fix I have seen is the shutter replacement.
Nobody has discovered anything more on this problem?

[Motorsports Photo]

Mine got fixed under warranty from Canon.

-PS

[Morden]

Looks like my D30 has the dreaded flash sync problem.
What is this "flash sync problem"?

[Gomez Photography]

Oh no!!
I had this problem too. I sent it to new Jersy and Loui the head of repair helped me alot. It went out again and they finally replaced it with a D60 shutter. No problems after that. Make sure that you use a safe sync adapter. or a radio sync ( like Pocket Wizard).
You will have the same problem if you continue to shoot without one of these.

[beach512]

Do you need this safe sync adapter regardless of what kind of flash system used ? (Canon flash, strobe rated at under 5V ) ?

Dave

[Ken Chandler]

Pls tell me more about these "safe sync" or "radio sync" adapters with relation to D30 shutter problems.

Thanks, Ken

[cseeber]

I got the quote back, it was AUD$438 (~USD$250)
Needs to get the shutter replaced.
It was AUS$90 for the shutter, AUD$350 for labour.

My camera was three months out of warranty, and second owner and they are fixing it under warranty thankfully.

[soumya63]

I have designed a safe sync circuit which I use with my D30 and Vivitar 285HV or AlienBee Studio Strobes. The components are readily available at Radio Shack and will cost you $10 approximately. If you can read circuit and handle a soldering iron, then it will take you an hour to construct it. Enjoy!

Get it here (http://www.mitraphoto.com/SafeSync.jsp)

Soumya

[robertwgross]

soumya63 wrote:
I have designed a safe sync circuit which I use with my D30 and Vivitar 285HV or AlienBee Studio Strobes. The components are readily available at Radio Shack and will cost you $10 approximately. If you can read circuit and handle a soldering iron, then it will take you an hour to construct it. Enjoy!

Get it here (http://www.mitraphoto.com/SafeSync.jsp)

Soumya

How is this any different from what you posted on Jan. 29th?

By the way, Radio Shack stores in this area have quit selling components like this.

---Bob Gross---

[soumya63]

They are the same.

Even the smallest Radio Shack store in California sells them. You will get them in the component drawer. Sometime sales people are not knowledgable enough what they are selling! The lady from my local store never heard anything like Triac or Zener even though they had lots of Triacs and Zeners in their component drawer!

The components I have selected are all non critical, most of the substitures will work. I tonight I will also add few photographs of the finished construction which will show how I have housed it in a plastic 35mm flim canister.

One last details I forgot to add that I used a coiled pc cord, cut it half and put the circuit in between the two connectors. The center core of the cable and shield sould be connected to the circuit as shown in the diagram. If you reverse the polarity at the Flash/Strobe end, it will not work.

[robertwgross]

soumya63 wrote:
Even the smallest Radio Shack store in California sells them. You will get them in the component drawer. Sometime sales people are not knowledgable enough what they are selling! The lady from my local store never heard anything like Triac or Zener even though they had lots of Triacs and Zeners in their component drawer!


About 25 years ago, I used to drop $50-100 per week at Radio Shack stores, mostly on components.

Up until four months ago, I pretty well knew what stock all of the Radio Shack stores in my area had. This is especially true of semiconductor components.

Within the last month or two, something has changed. I have not found a single Radio Shack store that still stocks this stuff. Now all they have are cell phone accessories and consumer electronics.

---Bob Gross---

[soumya63]

robertwgross wrote:
About 25 years ago, I used to drop $50-100 per week at Radio Shack stores, mostly on components.

Up until four months ago, I pretty well knew what stock all of the Radio Shack stores in my area had. This is especially true of semiconductor components.

Within the last month or two, something has changed. I have not found a single Radio Shack store that still stocks this stuff. Now all they have are cell phone accessories and consumer electronics.


Bob,

Sorry to know about this crazy idea of Radio Shack guys. We at California has couple of other options for electronics components like Frys Electronics. The other three options may be
1) Mail order components. Try http://bgm.bgmicro.com/
They have good stock and Triac and Transistor prices are few cents apiece. You may get everything within $5.
2) Rummage your junk box and if you have any touch dimmer lamp, break it open to get a triac.
3) Pay $40 + SH to B&H for a Wein Safe Sync
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/product/105171/WESSHS/REG/3625

But I have a feeling that an electronic pro like you will ultimately end up in option 1, cause solder fume is so addictive :D

Best of luck

Soumya@mitraphoto.com

[robertwgross]

soumya63 wrote:
(snip)
But I have a feeling that an electronic pro like you will ultimately end up in option 1, cause solder fume is so addictive :D


Solder fumes were part of my life 30 years ago. Then it became darkroom chemical fumes. Now it is only the odor of 10,000 rpm hard disks that I smell.

I also live within a few miles of several Fry's stores, so I can find components there.

Fortunately, all my flash equipment is low voltage except for one old Vivitar 252. I still have to purchase flash powder for it.

---Bob Gross---

[bnpndxtr]

cseeber wrote:
I got the quote back, it was AUD$438 (~USD$250)
Needs to get the shutter replaced.
It was AUS$90 for the shutter, AUD$350 for labour.

My camera was three months out of warranty, and second owner and they are fixing it under warranty thankfully.


I hope you don't mind a few comments about this circuit.

Q2 should really be better isolated from D1. This is because there is nothing limiting the base current of Q2, when D1 attempts to clamp the base at 5V, except for the source impedance of the strobe trigger L2. So this circuit really doesn’t isolate the camera from the trigger, it just clamps the trigger voltage L2 itself to 5.7V or so (5V zener plus Vbe drop of Q2). If the source impedance of trigger L2 is low enough, the base-emitter diode of Q2, as well as D1, could fail.

Frankly, the hookup of Q2 and D1 implies that Q2 will be on all the time, as the emitter-base will always be forward biased if the trigger voltage attempts to go higher than 5.7V or so.

So you might want to check it out a bit more- it looks like it may not be very safe.