ISO Speed Higher than 1000?

[BWiley]

Is there no way to adjust the ISO speed on a D60 higher than 1000? I've scoured the manual and it looks like 100, 200, 400, 800 and 1000 are the only choices. I checked the Custom Functions again and none of those offer a higher ISO.

My situation is this: I'm being paid to shoot a sporting event in a gym next month. It's important that the shots look as natural as possible, with the foreground and background light evenly balanced. I did some test shots and the best I could do was to shoot at 1/60 @ f4.5 when set at ISO 1000. Naturally, most of the action shots were slightly blurred, which I'd like to avoid. I could use my DX550 as a fill, but it's critical that the shots look as natural as possible.

Since I can't increase the ambient light, my only options seem to be to take a jillion natural-light pix in hopes that some are sharp, or use the flash set in a way that won't look like a flash was used.

Would shooting the flash direct at -1 exposure give me the effect I need? Thanks.

[jmublueduck]

my honest opinion is to go see if you can rent a faster lens from a local shop. if you open up to f/2.8 or greater, you'll get more than 1 extra stop to work with. what's your intended focal length here?

FWIW, i have the 100mm f/2... making it effectively a 160mm f/2 on the d60. it's darn sharp & twice as fast as the 70-200mm f/2.8. maybe you could find one of those to use @ the event..........

[robertwgross]

You don't have too many options.
(1) get a faster lens
(2) get more flash units scattered around
(3) get the house lights turned up to maximum... generally they either can't do that or won't do it because of energy cost
(4) ISO cranked up to 1000
(5) get closer to the action
(6) get cooperation of the teams to "stage" some action, maybe slower

---Bob Gross---

[Ralf Jannke]

Hi there,

I am shooting basketball since 1996. Over the years I used a 1,3 Megapixel Kodak/Canon EOS (1) DCS 3, a 3 MP Canon EOS D 30, a D 60 and a 2 MP Kodak/Canon EOS DCS 520/D2000. Your D 60 is ok for indoor, but you have the total wrong lens. You need at least f/2,8 better f/2 or f/1,8. For the most shots, I use the 2,8/70-200 mm USM on the EOS D 2000 at ISO 1600 f/2,8 1/400 s. Compared to that, the D 60 ISO 1000 performs very good and seems even more sensitive than the D 2000 ISO 1600! Because I use the 70-200 with the same set f/2,8 1/400 s. I think the D 60 is able to underexposure 2/3 EV. There are NO customfunctions to raise the ISO 1000. But there is one more tip. Try the RAW-Mode. You receive 36 bit files, converted to 48 bit files in Photoshop. That brings a better tonal-range, especially at a steady fight with underexposure. But try before your big sport event!!! An please forget about your f/4,5 lens! You need speed!

Good luck

Ralf Jannke/Bonn/Germany

[GenEOS]

I agree. The F4.5 lens is the factor. Get you a 2.8 or better. Even if you have to buy a fixed focal length lens, which will limit your shots, you will get much better pics.
I rent these lenses from a place in Houston from time to time. I have some of the same problems you are talking about.

I have found that the D60 will do a fair job underexposing 2/3's. But I am shooting for the paper and it is very forgiving as far as quality. If you are shooting for people who want quality glossy prints...then you had better buy or rent you a lens..

If interested, the company is called light tec
www.lighttec.com

I am sure they will ship!

But , hell, this is a good excuse to buy it...

[BWiley]

Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like a faster lens is really the only solid answer. Light Tec shows on their website that I could rent an 85mm f1.2L for $25/day or a 200mm f1.8 for $35/day, which isn't too bad considering that they're both L series and would let a lot of light in. Even though a 2-day minimum is required, doing this job right might make it worth it.

Thanks for the information and tips. Bill

[Ralf Jannke]

Forget about the 85 mm f/1,2 for sports. A super fast f-stop lens but the AF (mechanics) is toooooooooo slow for sports. Choose the 85 mm f/1,8 or the 100 mm f/2 instead. The 200 mm f/1,8 is phantastic! By the way, what kind of sport do you have to shoot? Best regards
Ralf Jannke

[kr-foto]

To have more optionons than the iso 1000, you can underexpose for one stop. Not without any sacrifices though! You have to do quite some postprocessing in photoshop using levels etc. It then looks like trix 1600 in rodinal so you´ll know what to expect. But it is one option if nothing else works!

Good luck!

[uid90282]

I do photography in indoor light situations and this solution would apply to any camera digital or film. I use my 550EX flash and put a piece of filter material over the flash element to balance the flash to the ambient light. For instance in a factiry setting with people, I put a 15cc green plastic sheet over the flash and then colour balance to make the scene look correct. Even if you find a fast lense to use, the added snap from the fill flash comingin at eye level instead of all from overhead will liven up your pics.

[BWiley]

Great idea about using a colored sheet/film on the flash. The overhead lights in the gym where this event turns everything a bit yellow, so when the flash is used it stands out as a white light source. I did some testing again yesterday and it seemed that I obtained the best results 2 ways:

1.) Bounce flashing with a good-sized white reflector card with the flash set at +3, and
2. Shooting direct flash with it set at -2/3. That way I didn't get the blast of white light to make it look artificial.

Neither of these fixes the need for a faster shutter speed to freeze the action, however. Since I'm limited to 1/1000 second on my D60, the best solution is a faster lens, at least better than the 24-85 F3.5- 4.5 that I've tried.

FYI, the event is a wheelchair basketball tournament sponsored annually by a regional rehab hospital. If you're never seen one, you'd be amazed at how the players get around.

Thanks for all the tips.