Are there any secrets to framing in camera to get an 8x10?

[pdrow]

Here's my problem. I frame up the shot in the viewfinder. I shoot. I like the shot a lot. So does the customer. However, it will not crop as an 8x10. 8x12 frames are not common. I know they can have them matted and framed. Some labs don't even offer an 8x12.

I know I could step back a little and get crop room. How do you manage this? Is this just really a dumb question?

I did an event where I planned to be farther away to allow for an 8x10 crop. I just don't think about it when I am shooting normally. Is this just a throwback to having shot film for so long?

Hopefully, someone can give me some good advice.
pam

[jimsolt]

Here's my problem. I frame up the shot in the viewfinder. I shoot. I like the shot a lot. So does the customer. However, it will not crop as an 8x10. 8x12 frames are not common. I know they can have them matted and framed. Some labs don't even offer an 8x12.

I know I could step back a little and get crop room. How do you manage this? Is this just really a dumb question?

I did an event where I planned to be farther away to allow for an 8x10 crop. I just don't think about it when I am shooting normally. Is this just a throwback to having shot film for so long?

Hopefully, someone can give me some good advice.
pam

The 8x10 ratio of the print does not equate to the ratio of most digital sensors, and I believe not to the 35mm film size either. A 4x5 negative would work perfectly. Therefore some cropping or use of a border must come into play to make the digital picture fit the paper. So you pay your money and you take your choice, shoot wider or use borders on the print.
Jim

[chtgrubbs]

The Canon cameras that had interchangeable focus screens had a screen with a grid, and the outer vertical lines of the screen formed what would be the 8x10 crop lines. If you can visualize it, the 8x10 format is between what would be a square image on the screen and the full frame.

[rdenney]

Hopefully, someone can give me some good advice.

Leave some room at the sides.

I tend to subconsciously divide an image up into thirds horizontally and vertically, and put the most important or characteristic feature at those points. If I imaging that on the horizontal scale, my center third is narrower than my outer thirds, then it comes out right. I rarely compose an image with really important subject matter at the sides.

I face the same thing in medium format, trying to make images that will work on 8x10 proportions on a square frame. If you work on the subjects relationship to each other and to the center, the edges can float. But make sure your sides don't have things that will make it impossible to cut them away. I always go for clean edges, and leave a bit of a clear zone on the sides.

It takes practice, but you'll get it.

Rick "who took a while to learn how not to be constrained by the format, but who still produces rectangular compositions on APS/35mm cameras and square compositions on 6x6 cameras" Denney

[Merle]

It is a matter of training your eye unless you have a crop line focusing prism one of which is produced by a company called "Brightscreen" For years I had to make mental compensations in my 645 medium format camera for the 5 X 7 proofs that I used in my sales program. Now that I have recently switched to
Digital (which is close to a 35mm format) I'm having to retrain my eye (brain) to make allowances if one of my customers wishes to purchase 8 x 10's.;) :) :D

Good Shooting to Ya !!
Merle