HDR? Software

[IA40D]

Ok I will start by saying I am new to all of this and was wondering where you get the software needed to merge your images first of all? And then do the images have to be shot in Raw? I am really looking forward to trying this oh yeah and lastly do you use the same shutter speed for all images in the set and just change the f stop also do you refocus your image if it is on a tripod I would guess u wouldn't but I could be wrong thanks in advance for your input and knowledge I appreciate it.

[MikeFairbanks]

Read the tutorials.

[Scottes]

What tutorials Mike?

Please help someone with a little more info.
From the "POTN Primer" (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=574001) which you agreed to when you registered on POTN:
"respect members (especially newbies) by giving full answers, "do a search" or "rtfm" is banned here."


Here's three of the best tutorials that I've found:
http://beforethecoffee.wordpress.com/photomatix-tutorial/
http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-tutorial/
http://www.vanilladays.com/hdr_tutorial

This blog post lists a bunch of HDR tutorials for different software. Looks like a valuable resource.
http://tutorialblog.org/hdr-tutorials-roundup/


To answer IA40D's questions:
1. The tutorials above will list most, if not all, of the most popular and/or best software. Photomatix is the most popular, it seems, though there are others. All of them have trials, so you can give it a go. I'd suggest taking some shots to prepare for the trial software. Learning tone-mapping can be a bit difficult, since it's such an art form. I've had trials run out before I've had time to learn the software.

Also, here's a list of free HDR software: http://www.techsupportalert.com/best-free-high-dynamic-range-hdr-software.htm

2. The images don't have to be shot in RAW, but you'll be better off if they are. Most of the programs can handle RAW files, and they will get more info out of RAW than JPG. But you can still use JPG.

3. Always, always, always use the same aperture, and simply vary the shutter speed between shots. You want to vary the exposure, not the depth of field.

4. Once I lock focus, I will usually flip the lens to Manual Focus mode to ensure that focus does not change. Or, focus with the back-button * and don't re-focus between shots.