Any S50 users out there?

[nuub]

I'vehad one for quite a while and have the housing for SCUBA trips. I use small dessicant packs but inevitably get condensation on the lens port due to the camera generating heat and being warmer than the water around it.

ideas?

[lensmen]

The S50 was a good heat generator.

The trick that I use, is to place your camera early into a bucket of seawater, while your speed boat is getting you to the dive spot.

This way, the camera and the air inside get used to the same cold water that you will be jumping in.

Secondly, there is the anti fog gel for the inside of the U/w casing. I applied it onto the casing's lens outlet (inside) and also the LCD viewfinder part.

With these steps, the possibility of the condensation is reduced.

Happy shooting.

PS: I had since sold my S50 and upgraded to the A620, which generates less heat and had a 1 cm marco focusing mode. That I had also sold away, after using for almost 2 years.

[Jon]

Also remember that dessicant packets don't absorb a lot of moisture, and need to be periodically refreshed. In fact, if you don't put them into the housing until just before you go in the water, they've probably already absorbed about as much moisture as they're going to.

However, I'm not sure the camera getting hot is the real culprit. Once you close the housing no more moisture will be able to get in; any condensation represents moisture that was already in the air when you sealed it up, or possibly a little that was in the camera proper. Heat may drive any moisture out of the camera's internals but there probably isn't much there to start with or you'd probably already be noticing problems attributable to internal corrosion.

[lensmen]

I liked to defer on the part about the camera's heat generating being the smoking gun.

The battery life of the S50 doesn't last very long (about 45 - 60 mins with 100% flash shots). I had it ON once I am in the waters until I am out. The start up lag is also horrible compared to today's DC. Each dive needs a fresh battery. With this, I had to change battery about 3 - 4 times in the boat. Offering fresh air (and perhaps condensation) into the chambers everytime.

When I moved to the A620, the anti fog gel is no longer part of the package with the housing. I was puzzeled too (thats day 1) and looked it up on the website as well.

Subsequently, on the dives, there has rarely been the fogging case - except once on the hot day when I jumped into icy cold waters off Bali. Even then, 10 mins into the dive and the condensation no longer posted a problem for me to start shooting.

Anyway, hoped that our friend managed to overcome his problem.

[nuub]

I'm in Okinawa, so ambient air humidity levels are 90% plus. I always housed up in a well air conditioned room with a low relative humidity and with fresh dessicant. Even with the anti-fog gel, I'd get the condensation; that's why I said heat. Water temps right at 72 degrees. It was always late into the dive and only on the glass surfaces, never on the plastic. Glass is the better thermal conductor,so that's again why I thought heat and what humidity was being forced from the camera over a 40 minute dive.

Still use mine from time to time on short simple dives with friends as a quickie memory maker. Sterlingtek (I believe) batteries have made this camera remain a viable point and shoot for me at depth. glad tohear others got some use too!

[lensmen]

the condensation in mine are always on the plastics.

anyway. the S50 is a very well built camera, if it hasn't been the 1cm marco (on the A620) & the heat issue. I would have held on to it.

have fun :--)

[chut7]

I've been using the S50 on diving trips as well, and here are my tips:
- there's no off switch on the camera, so just turn off the display. I've gone on multiple dive trips with no battery problems this way.
- if condensation does happen, press your tongue against the lens of the underwater case as long as you can (without being victim to the scuba no-no of holding your breath). This momentarily heats up the glass lens, evaporating the moisture there and moving the condensation elsewhere.

[nuub]

I've been using the S50 on diving trips as well, and here are my tips:
- there's no off switch on the camera, so just turn off the display. I've gone on multiple dive trips with no battery problems this way.
- if condensation does happen, press your tongue against the lens of the underwater case as long as you can (without being victim to the scuba no-no of holding your breath). This momentarily heats up the glass lens, evaporating the moisture there and moving the condensation elsewhere.


you are a genius! I'll gi ve it a try nexttime I go. If it works, I'll proudly tell all that I'm a window licker.