Minolta V F vs Sekonic L-358

[maverick1982]

Hi Guys,

I am looking to buy a flash meter and am unable to find enough information to decide between the Minolta V F (or IV F) and the Sekonic L-358. I would also use it for landscapes (mainly at night when the camera meters don't work), but the primary purpose will be as a flash meter.

Can any of you point out the differences or advantages or experiences?

I do not use PWs, so the trigger on the Sekonic is not useful for me.

Thanks in advance to all.

Cheers.
B

[Wilt]

It seems that the Minolta Vf is very similar to the L-358 for functionality (with exception of PW wireless). Not certain, as I have not owned and used both.

[maverick1982]

It seems that the Minolta Vf is very similar to the L-358 for functionality (with exception of PW wireless). Not certain, as I have not owned and used both.
Thanks for the reply Wilt. Did you find any links which give details of the Minolta?

Cheers.
B

[sGu]

I just sold my L358 for a Minolta V, and I much prefer the V as a matter of personal taste.

L358 is a good meter but it doesn't read to 1/10 of a stop, which I find it crucial in my work. It can also stay on in incident mode and measure flash output automatically without the need to press the button every time.

It is however, much bigger to hold compare with L358, even for average sized hands. Feature wise, it beats L358 by quite a margin. I don't find it difficult to measure strobe power by walking with a meter in one hand and pocket wizard in the other.

Either one should give you accurate measurement, just make sure the one you decide to get does everything you need it to :)

[maverick1982]

I just sold my L358 for a Minolta V, and I much prefer the V as a matter of personal taste.

L358 is a good meter but it doesn't read to 1/10 of a stop, which I find it crucial in my work. It can also stay on in incident mode and measure flash output automatically without the need to press the button every time.

It is however, much bigger to hold compare with L358, even for average sized hands. Feature wise, it beats L358 by quite a margin. I don't find it difficult to measure strobe power by walking with a meter in one hand and pocket wizard in the other.

Either one should give you accurate measurement, just make sure the one you decide to get does everything you need it to :)
Thanks for the reply!! From your comments, I think that the Minolta V F will be just as good as the Sekonic L-358, if not better. Even I would prefer having the extra transmitter in the other hand. And it could also be used as a trigger in a pinch. Not a bad thing at all.

Cheers.
B

[sGu]

Thanks for the reply!! From your comments, I think that the Minolta V F will be just as good as the Sekonic L-358, if not better. Even I would prefer having the extra transmitter in the other hand. And it could also be used as a trigger in a pinch. Not a bad thing at all.

Cheers.
B

It's very similar to Canon vs Nikon scenario, but the bottom line is that either one would do the job it sets out to do, just a matter of personal preference at the end of the day.

A lot of masters/older pro's would prefer Minolta and you'll find the V version is very well sought after, and they are rather rare compared with more available versions such as IV F, V F and 358. I don't know why, but I found someone mentioning that V version cost significant more than VF at B&H, not sure if they still carry the same stock. I guess there are something magical about Minolta V ...

[Wilt]

It's very similar to Canon vs Nikon scenario, but the bottom line is that either one would do the job it sets out to do, just a matter of personal preference at the end of the day.

A lot of masters/older pro's would prefer Minolta and you'll find the V version is very well sought after, and they are rather rare compared with more available versions such as IV F, V F and 358. I don't know why, but I found someone mentioning that V version cost significant more than VF at B&H, not sure if they still carry the same stock. I guess there are something magical about Minolta V ...

There is often confusion between the 'Autometer' line (pro level, moderate price) and the 'Flashmeter' line (pro, expensive)

[maverick1982]

Guys, I do a fair amount of balancing of ambient and flash. I see that the Minolta V does this in only 25% increments. How much of an issue is this?

Thanks for the replies and making me feel welcome.

Cheers.
B

[MR do little]

I just sold my L358 for a Minolta V, and I much prefer the V as a matter of personal taste.

L358 is a good meter but it doesn't read to 1/10 of a stop, which I find it crucial in my work. It can also stay on in incident mode and measure flash output automatically without the need to press the button every time.

It is however, much bigger to hold compare with L358, even for average sized hands. Feature wise, it beats L358 by quite a margin. I don't find it difficult to measure strobe power by walking with a meter in one hand and pocket wizard in the other.

Either one should give you accurate measurement, just make sure the one you decide to get does everything you need it to :)

You are comparing a entrylevel meter with a Pro meter from Minolta wich retailed for 500-600usd when it was avaiable.

But the fact you bought a L-358 and needed 1/10 readings tells me you didnt do your homework.

All the features you wanted in the L-358 is in the higher Sekonic models above (and more) as long as you willing to pay the price that is.

OP: if you want a meter that does ambient as good as it does flash, the Minolta V isnt it.

BTW Kenko is rebadged Minolta meters if you want to buy new.

[Jim Strenk]

I just sold my L358 for a Minolta V, and I much prefer the V as a matter of personal taste.

L358 is a good meter but it doesn't read to 1/10 of a stop, which I find it crucial in my work. It can also stay on in incident mode and measure flash output automatically without the need to press the button every time.

It is however, much bigger to hold compare with L358, even for average sized hands. Feature wise, it beats L358 by quite a margin. I don't find it difficult to measure strobe power by walking with a meter in one hand and pocket wizard in the other.

Either one should give you accurate measurement, just make sure the one you decide to get does everything you need it to :)

The L358 in fact DOES calculate f/stops in 1/10 increments. This is well documented in the Owners Manual. The changing of one of the DIP Switches inside the battery case will allow the meter to show increments of 1/10 of an f/stop. The meter also allows for setting off via an RF signal to Pocket Wizards attached to either flash or strobe units. There is an extra charge to purchase the Pocket Wizard radio module of about $50.00 US.

There are also quite a few add-ons available such as 1 deg, 5 deg and 10 deg spot attachements along with an extension Lumisphere for tight/small places.

I own one myself and have no problems using it. :)

[Jim Strenk]

He did do his homework, sort of! Purchasing the 358 was a correct purchase. sGu however forgot to missed the documentation in the Owners Manual that indicates exactly what to do with DIP switch settings that allow the 358 to calculate f/stops in 1/10 increments.

[sGu]

I didn't do my homework before buying my first meter, a mint 358 came along at an unbelievable price, so I snatched it. I did read the manual but somehow I must have missed the 1/10 stop change, because I remember playing with DIP switch for a while.

Oh well, end of the day, I prefer the feel and operation of Minolta better :)

Let's all focus on helping the guy to get his first meter please instead of helping me digging a hole :p

[MR do little]

Yea i had vauge memory of having 1/10 reading on my 358, was a few years since i had it though...:-)

Thanx for clearing that up.

[Jim Strenk]

Sorry sGu if you took offense to my statement. My intent was to quickly kill the notion that 358 didn't compute f/stops to 1/10 stop accuracy. I appologize if offense was taken.

Not being a professional photographer, I've found the 358 very useful and I use it very often. I've always found its results very useful for exposure calculations. It's great for establishing studio strobe lighting ratios and calculating the percentage of flash to ambient light ratios. Please refer to my earlier post as to a short list of features. I would recommend this unit to anybody that asked.

[Wilt]

Guys, I do a fair amount of balancing of ambient and flash. I see that the Minolta V does this in only 25% increments. How much of an issue is this?

Thanks for the replies and making me feel welcome.

Cheers.
B

I only use a meter to compute exposure for ambient, then compute exposure for the flash portion, never bothered to ask for percentage of contribution from each. Not sure what value I'd get from such information! Anyone want to offer how knowing percentages changes the price of beans?

[steveathome]

The L-358 computes flash / ambient in 10% increments, as well as giving the final exposure.
After experimentation you could at least use the % reading as a future reference.

[JMHPhotography]

I had a Minolta V... I now own an L-358 w/pw transmitter.

[sGu]

Sorry sGu if you took offense to my statement. My intent was to quickly kill the notion that 358 didn't compute f/stops to 1/10 stop accuracy. I appologize if offense was taken.

Not being a professional photographer, I've found the 358 very useful and I use it very often. I've always found its results very useful for exposure calculations. It's great for establishing studio strobe lighting ratios and calculating the percentage of flash to ambient light ratios. Please refer to my earlier post as to a short list of features. I would recommend this unit to anybody that asked.

No worries, no offense at all :D

[Mike R]

The L358 is my first light meter. It's easy to use and does a great job. The PW transmitter was a plus for me. I already had PW units so it wasn't a major added expense.

[maverick1982]

Hi Guys, Thanks for all the replies. I think I have made up my mind. I'll go with the Sekonic L-358.

Cheers.
B

[Jim Strenk]

I'm not sure how it would change the price of beans, however it might be very helpful when shooting outdoors when shooting at less than sync speed, also known as "dragging the shutter". by setting the shutter to less than sync speed, you allow ambient light to participate in your exposure calculations. Most exposures at sync speed tend to make the background under-exposed and dark, making foreground objects stand out.

At shutter speeds lower than sync speed, backgrounds will lighten, making foreground objects stand-out less, evening out the difference between foreground and background exposures more even.

[Wilt]

I'm not sure how it would change the price of beans, however it might be very helpful when shooting outdoors when shooting at less than sync speed, also known as "dragging the shutter". by setting the shutter to less than sync speed, you allow ambient light to participate in your exposure calculations. Most exposures at sync speed tend to make the background under-exposed and dark, making foreground objects stand out.

At shutter speeds lower than sync speed, backgrounds will lighten, making foreground objects stand-out less, evening out the difference between foreground and background exposures more even.

But I really want to know, if anyone can explain, is:
If I already know that the ambient light tungsten lit background is -2/3 EV, and the flash+ambient lit foreground is 0EV (relative to 'correct exposure') by the exposure settings I have chosen, then...

1. does it really matter that I know the relative percentage of how tungsten contributes to the foreground subject lighting vs. the flash?

2. And would it really matter that I know 20% contribution (with the Sekonic) vs. 25% (with the Minolta)? and how might that 5% difference in balance contribute to some decision I might make?

[steveathome]

I think its just another handy tool that may be more attractive to some than others.

If you say want the ambient light to be the dominant light and want your fill to be 30% - 40%, after taking your reading, you can either just spin the wheel until your desired percentage comes up and will advise what your settings will be at that given flash, or you will know to increase/decrease your flash output to get your desired aperture/shutter speed combination.

Some may prefer to just look at the blinking indicators, but personally I think the % reading could be useful and could assist to speed things up.


I've not looked in detail at the Minolta V, but I'm sure I see somewhere that it also measures in 10% % increments?

Everyone to their own.

[Wilt]

I've not looked in detail at the Minolta V, but I'm sure I see somewhere that it also measures in 10% % increments?

Everyone to their own.

According to the Minolta manual, it simply displays 'quadrants' for relative balance of flash vs. ambient...0-25% quadrant, 26-50% quadrant, etc. But I am curious how having a 10%:90% balance might alter things in terms of the the end result, vs. simply having 25%:75%...that is, if seeing 'percentage' has some value, would the balance precision make any difference in someone's decision? :confused: Is this simply one of those 'features' that has little apparent value for 95% of users?

[MR do little]

Hi Guys, Thanks for all the replies. I think I have made up my mind. I'll go with the Sekonic L-358.

Cheers.
B

Congrats. :D

[Jim Strenk]

Glad to hear you've made a decision on your meter choice. Regardless of make or model, you'll quickly discover your light meter will be an invaluable tool in determining exposure values from simple to complex. Not having a meter is akin to not bringing memory cards, lenses or camera body to a shoot. :o

[maverick1982]

Hi Everyone.. I have bought a used L608 for lower than the price of a new L358. I think the spot-meter would be a greatly useful for Landscapes. I think I made the right choice. Waiting for it to arrive now. :D

Will tell you guys how I go with it. You guys were very helpful. Thanks again. ;)