Shooting Music Workshop / Clinic

[niqqunos]

Hi All,

Following on from my earlier thread, I now have my 50D and I'm shooting a bass workshop by the great Victor Wooten tonight. For now I'm assuming it will be a similar lighting setup as a regular gig except with less backlighting and more whites and yellows - shouldn't be a problem.

However, the promoter who I'm working for has asked for some shots before and afterwards with Victor and his staff and members of the audience to use on their website and I'm wondering how would be best to do this as the lighting may not be the best.

I'll be using 50D with 24-70 f2.8 most likely with my 430EXii @ 45 degrees with Stofen Omni-bounce to give some fill.

What would be the best distance to stand from the subjects to allow plenty of light from the Omni-bounce @ 45 degrees to fill the frame?

I'll probably use Tv mode to control shutter speed and get a nice sharp shot - should I use leave the flash on ETTL to figure out the amount of power needed or do I need to compensate for the Omni-bounce?

Or should I just shoot in P and let the camera do all the work?! :)

Any recommendations would be appreciated... In return I will reward you all by posting shots of the world's best bass player in action!

[blackshadow]

Remember... P is for Professional!

Realistically you are probably much better to shoot in M and set the flash to ETTL and use FEC to dial in the right settings.

[René Damkot]

I'll be using 50D with 24-70 f2.8 most likely with my 430EXii @ 45 degrees with Stofen Omni-bounce to give some fill.

Be carefull not to tilt the flash forward too much: You'll get uneven lighting then. (top of the frame overexposed)
If you have the time to read & experiment: Have a good read. (http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/1-natural-looking-flash/)


What would be the best distance to stand from the subjects to allow plenty of light from the Omni-bounce @ 45 degrees to fill the frame?
Are we talking off camera flash now?
In that case: Try to "be the flash": Stand where the flash is (or bouncing off!) and try to visualize where the light will go from there. Is that the side of the subject you want lit?

I'll probably use Tv mode to control shutter speed and get a nice sharp shot - should I use leave the flash on ETTL to figure out the amount of power needed or do I need to compensate for the Omni-bounce?

Tv mode will set whatever aperture it thinks is needed, taking away DoF control from you.
Also, if wide open isn't enough light, it'll give you a flashing shutterspeed in the viewfinder as a warning, and then it'll underexpose the image if you don't do anything. (or have 'safety shift' enabled)
IMO Tv mode sucks for fill flash photography. (or anything else low light for that matter)

Also, if there is no ambient on the subject, you won't get motion blur (you might get ghosting though): Post (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=6129682&postcount=3)

Or should I just shoot in P and let the camera do all the work?! :)

If you want images that look line a point and shoot took them: Go right ahead.
In P mode flash is main light. Slowest shutterspeed is 1/60s or so. So in any low light situation, just set "wide open, 1/60s" in M for the same effect.

Any recommendations would be appreciated... In return I will reward you all by posting shots of the world's best bass player in action!

Shoot Manual mode on camera. FEC is your friend. Maybe Av (in that case: EC is your friend as well). Think a bit about DoF and ambient light. Use whatever ISO needed.

Chimp every once in a while.
Keep thinking about where you're aiming the flash: Bouncing from a side wall or corner might be much nicer then the ceiling.
Also: Have a read at the site I linked above: Neil cut the top out of his stofen. I did that as well. Gives you more control where you bounce, while you still get a little fill from the camera.

Hef fun ;)