View Full Version : Air to Air Photography
PicRic
21st of August 2009 (Fri), 14:49
I have been asked to take air to air photographs of two planes and their pilots (Cherokee 140s or similar). Has anyone else done this?
What were the easy bits?
What were the difficult bits?
How do I line up that 'Wow' shot?
Regards
ToddR
21st of August 2009 (Fri), 15:00
I can't seem to find the article on their web site because I think they intentionally let it lag behind the current issue, but the current print issue of Flying magazine had a feature article about this very topic. It was written by Paul Bowen, well-known aviation photographer and frequent Flying contributor.
It's more complicated that one might think, especially among those pilots who have never done formation flight.
equetefue
21st of August 2009 (Fri), 15:03
should not be hard at all. Few of my friends took pics of me while flying and they turned out great. They use 70-200 IS lenses
golfecho
21st of August 2009 (Fri), 15:06
MAKE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THAT NEITHER PILOT IS TAKING PICTURES OR DOING ANYTHING AT ALL BUT FLYING!!!
Sorry about the caps, but that is the number one consideration. Also, make sure the pilots have knowledge about formation flying. Brief, brief, and then brief some more. Pick airspace that won't likely be interfering with other traffic (ie-don't try for a publicity shot around the Statue of Liberty, or other such place).
Photo stuff: Put the sun behind you if possible . . . 3PM or later. Shoot out an open window if possible (often a Cessna shooting towards another plane behind and lower, with window open). Consider CPF to kill glare, but be aware that these sometimes cause funny patterns on plexiglass on the subject plane. Pick a very clear day. May seem obvious, but just because there are no clouds in the sky, doesn't mean its a clear day. Often the day after a night of thunderstorms you will have absolutely clear visibility, even though there may be some "puffies" in the sky. Some mid level cumulonimbus can actually add depth to pictures . . .
equetefue
21st of August 2009 (Fri), 15:07
^^ agree with above but I have taken lots of pictures while flying, taking off and landing. As long as you are good u're good to go
PicRic
21st of August 2009 (Fri), 16:45
Thanks for the responses, everyone.
I figured to use my Canon 70-210 IS lens because it is the best lens I have, I love using it, and I don't need the planes to be too close to get 'close' shots.
Regarding safety; I fully intend to make sure that the photo plans are all written down and agreed beforehand. Then we will practice our moves on the ground (not in the airplanes).
The date for the flights is still to be set but I will post the best shots afterwards.
ToddR, I will research Paul Bowen and Flying and see what I come up with.
DealsGapCobra
28th of August 2009 (Fri), 18:05
1) Pilots Fly, Photogs Shoot!
2) Make sure the pilots have formation experience. Just because they think they can do it isn't good enough. Things can go wrong in a hurry and you have to know what to do!
3) Remove the hood if shooting out of an open window to reduce wind buffeting.
FlyingPhotog
2nd of September 2009 (Wed), 04:35
1) Pilots Fly, Photogs Shoot!
2) Make sure the pilots have formation experience. Just because they think they can do it isn't good enough. Things can go wrong in a hurry and you have to know what to do!
3) Remove the hood if shooting out of an open window to reduce wind buffeting.
Can't stress this enough...
Formation flight is not something pilots should ever just "try" for the hell of it.
PJH
2nd of September 2009 (Wed), 06:34
don't use a polariser to get the sky blue, do that in photoshop. If you do use a polarizer, you will get the "oily" surface of the window to show up in your pictures. Also make sure you have the sun behind your back (so if the plane you are shooting is to the right of your plane, the sun should be at the left)
try not to "cut" the plane in half with the horizon. Try to get nice colours by adjusting picture style in camera. When shooting propellor aircraft, make sure you don't use high shutterspeeds or else you will freeze the propellor and that doesn't look good.
Even low level flight is possible, line the aircraft up so that the plane you are shooting is lower than you, this way the background will be nicely blurred and it will add a sence of speed to your pictures
Wear dark cloths as you shoot and don't put any white papers in the plane you are shooting from. White and light coloured surfaces reflect in the plane window causing weird stuff in the final picture
don't be afraid to shoot with dark clouds overhead, they will cut your shutterspeed (so propellor movement will be visible) and they give a nice backdrop and dramatic look...but NEVER EVER shoot when it's raining. Although the rain could add a nice effect, it will also ruin your pictures when the rain streams down the window you are sitting behind
and last tip I can give you, don't crash into each other :p
edit: try not to get the wing of your own airplane in the picture, unless you really want it to be there
les_au
28th of January 2012 (Sat), 19:19
thanks for the info on this thread, i am going to attempt some A2A shots with gliders. this could be interesting getting the complete aircraft into the frame given the size of the wings on the club's twin seaters in particular
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