View Full Version : Calumet Genesis short review
hawkeye60
22nd of August 2009 (Sat), 15:27
Just thought I'd post a short review having been the owner of Genesis 200s for a while now.
As opposed to the two umbrella package, I opted to get one Genesis with a softbox and one with an umbrella. It's a nice savings to do it this way over getting the softbox and adapter rings later. Both units come with reflectors, so if I wish to remove the softbox I have the option to use umbrellas on both as well.
The build quality is very good, they are solid and well made. The outer housing has a rubberized feel to it and all the controls work precisely as they should. The softbox was a breeze to assemble, I'd say less than 2 minutes and I was done. They also include an extra rod for the softbox, in case of damage. The locking mechanism is a ring which you only need to rotate about 1" to secure the softbox or reflector in place. They are fan cooled and the recycle time has been very short, they're ready before I am.
The included stands are adequate but as they are not air cushioned, you need to be careful when making adjustments.
The only problem I encountered was some foreign matter inside one of the power cord plugs which prevented it from fitting properly. A small screwdriver into the end, and all was well. Other than that they have worked flawlessly, and I anticipate many years of the same.
For my use the 200s are more than powerful enough. I've been using them at well under 50% power ISO-125 @f8 for head shots with perfect results. (Small room, my 3 car garage is way too hot this time of year)
I'd say they are definately the best bargain you'll find for entry level strobes. I'm sure these units will remain part of my equipment regardless of what I decide to add later.
TMR Design
22nd of August 2009 (Sat), 16:02
Thanks for the mini-review and images. If you're not already aware of it, the mount is an Elinchrom mount which means it's 100% compatible with Elinchrom reflectors, speed rings, snoots, beauty dishes, softboxes, octas and any modifier with an Elinchrom mount.
This makes the Genesis strobes even more attractive in terms of an upgrade path. You can add Elinchrom accessories and modifiers and if at some point you find you've outgrown the strobes then you can upgrade to Elinchrom strobes and continue to use any and all modifiers.
Congratulations on the Genesis 200's. You'll really enjoy using them.
jeromego
22nd of August 2009 (Sat), 16:08
Robert, the power setting display of the Genesis goes up to 60. does this mean that:
60 = full power
50 = 1/2
40 = 1/4
30 = 1/8
20 = 1/16
thanks
hawkeye60
22nd of August 2009 (Sat), 16:09
Yes I am aware of the mount compatability, it's yet another plus.
TMR Design
22nd of August 2009 (Sat), 16:18
Robert, the power setting display of the Genesis goes up to 60. does this mean that:
60 = full power
50 = 1/2
40 = 1/4
30 = 1/8
20 = 1/16
thanks
Hi Jerome,
In theory yes, but with these entry level strobes you don't have that exact degree of accuracy.
10 clicks should equal 1 full stop.
I recall one or two other members publishing the exact power levels they metered but every 10 clicks does not equal an exact stop of light. The nice thing is that you do get consistent output at a particular setting so it's easy to repeat and recall levels, knowing where the discrepancies are.
If memories serves the total range of power that should be 5 stops ends up being 4.7 stops.
Aside from that the performance is outstanding and to get digitally controlled strobes that are more precise does come at greater cost.
jeromego
22nd of August 2009 (Sat), 16:19
Hi Jerome,
In theory yes, but with these entry level strobes you don't have that exact degree of accuracy.
10 clicks should equal 1 full stop.
I recall one or two other members publishing the exact power levels they metered but every 10 clicks does not equal an exact stop of light. The nice thing is that you do get consistent output at a particular setting so it's easy to repeat and recall levels, knowing where the discrepancies are.
If memories serves the total range of power that should be 5 stops ends up being 4.7 stops.
Aside from that the performance is outstanding and to get digitally controlled strobes that are more precise does come at greater cost.
thanks Robert... I appreciate it.
tagvestibule
23rd of August 2009 (Sun), 17:46
Thanks for the mini-review and images. If you're not already aware of it, the mount is an Elinchrom mount which means it's 100% compatible with Elinchrom reflectors, speed rings, snoots, beauty dishes, softboxes, octas and any modifier with an Elinchrom mount.
This makes the Genesis strobes even more attractive in terms of an upgrade path. You can add Elinchrom accessories and modifiers and if at some point you find you've outgrown the strobes then you can upgrade to Elinchrom strobes and continue to use any and all modifiers.
Congratulations on the Genesis 200's. You'll really enjoy using them.
Well, I'd call it 99% compatible - any Elinchrom accessory which relies on a centered-mounted umbrella hole will not fit the Genesis lights. Rob, you may remember that I found this out the hard way with my E*****om maxi-soft beauty dish. The deflectors simply won't attach to Genesis lights. Just thought I'd mention that in case it prevents anyone from making the same mistake that I did.
TMR Design
23rd of August 2009 (Sun), 18:08
Well, I'd call it 99% compatible - any Elinchrom accessory which relies on a centered-mounted umbrella hole will not fit the Genesis lights. Rob, you may remember that I found this out the hard way with my E*****om maxi-soft beauty dish. The deflectors simply won't attach to Genesis lights. Just thought I'd mention that in case it prevents anyone from making the same mistake that I did.
I know. That's why I was careful to say it's 100% compatible with any modifier that has an Elinchrom mount. Notice I didn't mention deflectors or reference any modifier that relied on the central umbrella shaft. :D
Cosha
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 04:47
i belive the 2 head light kit is:
http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/item/CF0502K1/
Good review as i was going to get these at the weekend, they do look well built!
Thank you for mini review
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 09:44
do you have any examples of photos you have taken with this set? I am trying to decide on these or Alien Bees, thanks.
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 10:01
oh, also I am a noob to lighting, how do you trigger these?
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 10:24
do you have any examples of photos you have taken with this set? I am trying to decide on these or Alien Bees, thanks.
oh, also I am a noob to lighting, how do you trigger these?
Hi justagirl.
One thing to understand is that I could show you images shot with a Speedlight and images shot with my Elinchrom's and you wouldn't know the difference. In that respect, light is light.
It's what you do with those strobes and how you apply techniques and use modifiers to control and shape light. In many cases, high end lights have more features, offer greater precision and digital controls, consistent output and color, etc. but on the most basic level you can produce amazing images with the simplest and least expensive equipment.
SO, seeing images shot with a Genesis 200 won't tell you anything. You're not going to see anything to identify the strobes. You'll see differences between modifiers, not the lights. Quality of light will change from the use of a 5 foot Octabox to a 24" x 32" softbox but the light that fires into that modifier is not going to make or break the shot or demonstrate a better strobe or photographer.
Regarding the trigger.... you can trigger the strobes with the supplied sync cable that connects to your camera and then to the strobe or you can use any one of several radio triggers available.
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 10:32
Oh, O.K. it does have a cable.
What I guess I am asking about the lights is if the 200 set has enough power to do more than headshots, I would like enough power to do 5+ people at once.
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 10:41
Oh, O.K. it does have a cable.
What I guess I am asking about the lights is if the 200 set has enough power to do more than headshots, I would like enough power to do 5+ people at once.
To do full length work or groups I would get the 400 Watt second Genesis. You may not need a pair of them and perhaps a 400 and a 200 would be best but I'm not sure if they offer a kit with a 400 and a 200.
Can you elaborate more on the type of work you want to do?
You can certainly do much more than head shots with a 200 Watt second strobe but once you start doing groups and using modifiers you may find that you need more. It would depend on the size of the subject area and the ISO and aperture you want to shoot.
showtm490
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 10:41
I bought the 200w kit last year and have been pleased with them. You can see them in use on my flickr.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/showtm490/
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 10:42
I am looking into opening a small studio, family portraits, seniors, kids and the like.
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 10:45
Nice pics showtm490!
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 10:48
I am looking into opening a small studio, family portraits, seniors, kids and the like.
Based on that I would get the 400's. You may need the extra stop of light.
Ideally, and this is something to think about as you grow, for the work you're describing you'll eventually need more than two strobes and you may very well want to have a pair of 400's and a pair of 200's.
For larger setups and some forms of portraiture you'll want a main light, a fill light, hair light and background light. The configuration could change but I think you'll be limited with only 2 lights based on what you're describing. Having 4 lights will give you a great deal of flexibility, both in the studio and on location. The extra stop of light from the 400 will and can come in handy, and at times the 400 won't drop the power low enough, so the 200 will be more appropriate.
Mix and match the 400's and 200's for a well rounded kit.
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 10:58
Yeah, I know I will need more lights, but coming up with the $$ to start is difficult right now, so I want the most "bang for my buck"! I am hoping to start with two lights, one main a reflector for fill and the 2nd as a hair or background light.
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 11:02
Yeah, I know I will need more lights, but coming up with the $$ to start is difficult right now, so I want the most "bang for my buck"! I am hoping to start with two lights, one main a reflector for fill and the 2nd as a hair or background light.
If you're not afraid to raise your ISO a little then you'd be fine with the 200's. More than likely you'd only have to do that with groups where you need the depth of field to get everyone, left to right and front to back in focus.
slivr
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 12:12
I was an early adopter of the Genesis lights, obtaining 2-light kits in both the 200w/s and 400w/s versions and find them very useful both in-studio and on-location. Here's a quick graph of their light output showing their consistency from flash-to-flash. I know it looks like a lot of numbers - but first look at the center column to see the unit's power setting then looking at the 3 boxes to the left of that power setting to see meter readings on 3 consecutive flashes. In most cases they're dead-on from 1 pop to another, and in just a few instances one of the flashes might be off a 1/10th fstop. Pretty darn good since only the most discerning eyes and camera sensors can tell a difference in light output of less than 1/3rd an fstop.
But another thing you'll see from this graph is that the power control isn't truly linear, meaning going from "60" to "50" should be 1 f-stop difference but that's not the case here. Fortunately it's easy enough to change your power-level button up or down a few digits to hit that perfect 1 f-stop change as needed, so I still consider these lights a great value.
http://www.lancerfan.com/images/hosted/output.jpg
slivr
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 12:20
And to "Justagirl" - I'd agree the Genesis 400's provide more potential if you're intending to do some studio work for hire. Getting 2 lights, and the extra f-stop from the 400's CAN make a big difference particularly for group shots.
In comparisan to Alien Bees, the Genesis are less expensive and more powerful, but Alien Bees have a nice variety of inexpensive modifiers whereas the Genesis require Elinchrom compatible modifiers.
In comparisan to Elinchrom D-Lites, the D-Lites are even more precise in output, color temp and linear power settings ... but you'll spend a lot less for the Genesis while obtaining the bulk of D-Lite's functionality and quality.
guntoter
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 12:57
To do full length work or groups I would get the 400 Watt second Genesis. You may not need a pair of them and perhaps a 400 and a 200 would be best but I'm not sure if they offer a kit with a 400 and a 200.
Can you elaborate more on the type of work you want to do?
You can certainly do much more than head shots with a 200 Watt second strobe but once you start doing groups and using modifiers you may find that you need more. It would depend on the size of the subject area and the ISO and aperture you want to shoot.
What would you think of the 200's for wedding formals? Or would the 400's be more pratical for that?
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:03
What would you think of the 200's for wedding formals? Or would the 400's be more pratical for that?
It always depends on the size of the group. With a large group, the modifiers will have to be further from the group to keep them out of frame and give you even coverage. You'll also need enough power to be able to use a smaller aperture to ensure all subjects are in focus.
For that type of work I would opt for the 400 Watt second strobe because I may need the power and can always turn it down. Don't forget that you'll lose some power by firing into or through a modifier.
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:10
Thanks so much for everyones help today, I am thinking about the following set up...
1 400 with a large softbox say 32x40 or so for the main, a large reflector on the other side and a 200 on the hair and a 200 on the background (so these need modifiers?)
Do you guys think this is a feasable set-up?
Thanks again!
guntoter
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:12
It always depends on the size of the group. With a large group, the modifiers will have to be further from the group to keep them out of frame and give you even coverage. You'll also need enough power to be able to use a smaller aperture to ensure all subjects are in focus.
For that type of work I would opt for the 400 Watt second strobe because I may need the power and can always turn it down. Don't forget that you'll lose some power by firing into or through a modifier.
So 400's would be the way to go for my use. I am trying to put together a portable lighting kit for an upcoming wedding (and more in the future, hopefully). A 5D mkII is also in my view finder, if not, my 40d will work fine.
Now just to find the right kit of 2 or 3 strobes with all the goodies needed to set it up, without breaking the bank.
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:17
Thanks so much for everyones help today, I am thinking about the following set up...
1 400 with a large softbox say 32x40 or so for the main, a large reflector on the other side and a 200 on the hair and a 200 on the background (so these need modifiers?)
Do you guys think this is a feasable set-up?
Thanks again!
Sounds like a good setup. It gives you lots of flexibility. If you need to drop the power of the main light you can swap it out for one of the 200's and if you need more power for your background light you can swap a 200 for a 400. Unless you're using right grids from a distance for the hair light then the 200 will be fine.
Also, you won't always need or want a background light and can always use that strobe with a large umbrella for your fill source.
With couples, groups or kids it can be difficult to get enough light returning from a reflector and if the subject is moving your 'sweet spot' will be lost.
All in all, having 3 lights and a few reflectors will work nicely but I think you'll find that the fourth light will be a nice addition.
If you weren't planning on shooting groups you'd be just fine with 3 lights and not really need a fourth. You might still want it but it wouldn't stop you from doing some creating and beautiful work.
Modifiers are a personal thing and will be dependent on the effect or type of lighting you want.
Some people like hair lights that are bare bulb with a grid and barn doors. Some prefer a strip light or small softbox. For groups, a nice large strip light works really well. Bare bulb won't cut it for a group. A medium to large softbox is great for your main light and a large box or octa will work nicely for groups. Having another large modifier on the opposite side will come in handy for groups but there's no reason why you can just use a large umbrella, and those are relatively inexpensive.
For reflectors, medium to large are best and white and silver offer you a lot of flexibility.
Your background light can be as simple as a reflector or reflector with grids. Some use softboxes, strips or umbrellas but that will depend on the control you need and the size of the space you're working in.
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:25
So 400's would be the way to go for my use. I am trying to put together a portable lighting kit for an upcoming wedding (and more in the future, hopefully). A 5D mkII is also in my view finder, if not, my 40d will work fine.
Now just to find the right kit of 2 or 3 strobes with all the goodies needed to set it up, without breaking the bank.
Even though you may want to upgrade or have all kinds of neat stuff, the reality is that you could do what you want with two 400's and 2 large umbrellas. That would enable you to do the bridal portraits, the groom, larger groups and even tighter half body or head shots.
I think you'll really enjoy a kit with two of the 400's and perhaps get it with a softbox if it's available. I don't believe the kits offer large umbrellas but you can get an inexpensive pair of 60 inch umbrellas and you'd be set.
guntoter
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:39
Even though you may want to upgrade or have all kinds of neat stuff, the reality is that you could do what you want with two 400's and 2 large umbrellas. That would enable you to do the bridal portraits, the groom, larger groups and even tighter half body or head shots.
I think you'll really enjoy a kit with two of the 400's and perhaps get it with a softbox if it's available. I don't believe the kits offer large umbrellas but you can get an inexpensive pair of 60 inch umbrellas and you'd be set.
Now that sounds like advice I can use. What are the reliable 400w strobes (brands), and what size umbrellas (you said large, how large)? Should the umbrellas have the removable black backing? How tall stands would be enough?
I am thinking of going with PW's or cybersycn for triggering.
EDIT: Oops. I just saw you said 60" on the umbrellsa, sorry. forget that part of the question.
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:44
Your background light can be as simple as a reflector or reflector with grids. Some use softboxes, strips or umbrellas but that will depend on the control you need and the size of the space you're working in
I do not think I have ever seen a reflector used as a background light, how do you angle that?
This is getting too confusing for my little brain, LOL
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:49
I do not think I have ever seen a reflector used as a background light, how do you angle that?
Do you think I would be better off getting the 2 light 200 and 2 light 400 kits with umbrellas and add a strip for the hairlight? (adding a large soft or octo later?)
This is getting too confusing for my little brain, LOL
Sorry, I was not clear. I meant that you can use the strobe with the included aluminum reflector, not a popup or flat reflector. The bowl-shaped reflector that comes with the strobe is very usable for background lighting.
The reflector is pictured in the first post of this thread in the images posted.
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:54
slivr,
thanks for posting the chart, I am still trying to wrap my head around it though! I really can't wait to start doing studio work.
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:55
Now that sounds like advice I can use. What are the reliable 400w strobes (brands), and what size umbrellas (you said large, how large)? Should the umbrellas have the removable black backing? How tall stands would be enough?
I am thinking of going with PW's or cybersycn for triggering.
EDIT: Oops. I just saw you said 60" on the umbrellsa, sorry. forget that part of the question.
Since this thread is about the Calumet Genesis strobes I'm referring to the Genesis 400 (400 Watt seconds) and the Genesis 200 (200 Watt seconds). I would either get something like Photogenic 60" Eclipse White umbrellas, Westcott 60" White umbrella or something a bit more flexible like the Photek 60" Photek Softlighter II.
The Photogenic and Westcott can be used as shoot through or reflective bounce and both have a removable black backing.
The Photek Softlighter is a 3-in-1 solution and can be used as a shoot through umbrella, reflective bounce umbrella, or if you add the front diffusion material it works like an umbrella softbox or a brolly, providing very nice, soft light for portraits.
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 13:55
LOL, silly me, I should have known that is what you meant!
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 14:05
slivr,
thanks for posting the chart, I am still trying to wrap my head around it though! I really can't wait to start doing studio work.
What Jason is demonstrating is that despite the fact that you have digital controls that supposedly represent 1/10 stop accuracy, that is not the case. It's not a problem because the discrepancy is repeatable and consistent so it's predictable.
When you have digital controls every 10 clicks should equal 1 full stop, or 10 tenths. The table shows that from full power (60 on the display) to half power (50 on the display) it's not actually a full stop. Instead it's only about 1/2 stop. Going down what should be another full stop, you can see that it's only 6/10 stop. The full power range from max to min should be 5 stops but it works out to be just under 4 stops.
More important than the actual amount of change is that if you set your light on 50 you get consistent output and if you set up the following day and set your light to 50 you get the same results.
To get a digitally controlled strobe with greater precision and the full range of power you would have to spend a bit more and jump up to something like Elinchrom D-Lite's.
guntoter
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 14:11
Since this thread is about the Calumet Genesis strobes I'm referring to the Genesis 400 (400 Watt seconds) and the Genesis 200 (200 Watt seconds). I would either get something like Photogenic 60" Eclipse White umbrellas, Westcott 60" White umbrella or something a bit more flexible like the Photek 60" Photek Softlighter II.
The Photogenic and Westcott can be used as shoot through or reflective bounce and both have a removable black backing.
The Photek Softlighter is a 3-in-1 solution and can be used as a shoot through umbrella, reflective bounce umbrella, or if you add the front diffusion material it works like an umbrella softbox or a brolly, providing very nice, soft light for portraits.
I certainly appreciate your input/advice. When you are running around like a "ball in high weeds" it is nice to have some guidance.
slivr
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 14:19
A pair of 400's with umbrellas and a large softbox provides many options and you'll be able to accomplish numerous lighting "looks". I would favor the 400 pair over a 400/200 combo, but just a word of caution about Calumet's Genesis kit online that includes their softbox:
1.) That softbox is quite small for bridal or fashion work and may not provide enough coverage, and;
2.) Unless Calumet has changed their supplier in the last few months - the speed ring that comes with that softbox kit is NOT A PERFECT FIT for your Genesis light or any Elinchrom light and inhibits your locking ring from making a secure attachment!!!
I'd recommend you buy the Genesis 200 or 400 kit that includes the umbrellas and stands (no softbox) ... then purchase an independant softbox in whatever size/configuration you need such as a 36x48". When you purchase your softbox, be sure to add-in an Elinchrom compatible speed ring which fit's the softbox onto the front of your Genesis light and you'll have a great starting setup. Or as Robert suggests - just purchase the lights and independantly acquire larger umbrellas and softbox. The umbrellas included with the Genesis kits are 45" and I don't use them a lot but for $30 over the price of a light alone, I got the umbrella and a fairly nice stand so I think the kit's worth it.
slivr
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 14:27
Justagirl - Incidently I often use a 3 light setup for studio work, Using a 400w/s Genesis either in a softbox or a 22" beauty dish ... and two Genesis 200's for accent lights such as hair or fill, so the option you indicate above is certainly viable. I just happen to favor 400's. Every one of these images were done with a combination of either 3 or 4 Genesis lights. (Two 200w/s & two 400w/s) Just throwing this in so you can see Genesis are completely capable of providing studio quality lighting options
http://www.lancerfan.com/images/hosted/Collage3.jpg
imahawki
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 14:50
do you have any examples of photos you have taken with this set? I am trying to decide on these or Alien Bees, thanks.
I'm not the original poster but I have these shots I took with a single 200 and the umbrellas that come with the kit.
http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd337/cjs-photos/IMG_2969-edit.jpg
http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd337/cjs-photos/IMG_2972-edit.jpg
This one was taken with both 200s (pardon the lack of an actual backdrop).
http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd337/cjs-photos/Sabrina8-19-09.jpg
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 14:52
I'm not the original poster but I have these shots I took with a single 200 and the umbrellas that come with the kit.
http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd337/cjs-photos/IMG_2969-edit.jpg
http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd337/cjs-photos/IMG_2972-edit.jpg
This one was taken with both 200s (pardon the lack of an actual backdrop).
http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd337/cjs-photos/Sabrina8-19-09.jpg
Good stuff man!!!
imahawki
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 14:54
Thanks Rob, and thanks for the help in my other threads as I've been starting out with this equipment. I truly appreciate it.
justagirl1980
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 14:58
wow, thanks for the great examples! It's nice to see photos taken with the lights you are looking at!
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 15:03
wow, thanks for the great examples! It's nice to see photos taken with the lights you are looking at!
Yes but I could show you images shot with Speedlight's and say they were Genesis 400's and you wouldn't know. That's the point I was trying to make. It's the photographer, the modifiers and a bit of knowledge that makes those images happen. Not the lights. :D
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 15:04
Thanks Rob, and thanks for the help in my other threads as I've been starting out with this equipment. I truly appreciate it.
My pleasure. :D :cool: :D
imahawki
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 15:05
Yes but I could show you images shot with Speedlight's and say they were Genesis 400's and you wouldn't know. That's the point I was trying to make. It's the photographer, the modifiers and a bit of knowledge that makes those images happen. Not the lights. :D
True, its no different from some of the lens sample threads. Absent EXIF data (and even then, not guaranteed) you have no clue what the person was really shooting with.
guntoter
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 15:23
I just bought the 2 - 400w genesis strobes, umbrellas, stands, and radio triggers.
Can't wait to get them and start learning the proper setup. My fellow photographer and I should get some great formals at our upcoming wedding shoot.
I also have a 580 EXII that I might be able to incorporate into the scheme. I bought an extra receiver just in case.
slivr
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 15:24
Yes but I could show you images shot with Speedlight's and say they were Genesis 400's and you wouldn't know. That's the point I was trying to make. It's the photographer, the modifiers and a bit of knowledge that makes those images happen. Not the lights.
:) Absolutely! I think most would agree that once you've obtained a light-generating source that's consistent in power/output and color temperature ... light is light and the vast majority of image quality falls into the hands of the photographer and whatever light MODIFIERS they're using. When you read posts about the image being great because of the quality of the light or brand name I have to take exception. You can examine an image and often identify where the lighting sources were placed, and sometimes even what type of modifier was used ... but in the right hands a speedlight, alien bee, profoto and broncolor light all produce fantastic results.
slivr
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 15:25
Congrats, Gunner! You're going to have fun with them, for sure!
imahawki
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 15:43
On a side note, but something that other people in this thread might be curious about, what's the difference between watt seconds and effective watt seconds.
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 15:46
On a side note, but something that other people in this thread might be curious about, what's the difference between watt seconds and effective watt seconds.
Forget you ever saw Effective Watt seconds. It's a term fabricated by Paul Buff and is meaningless. No other manufacturer uses it and it's a useless term.
wickerprints
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 15:59
What kind of wireless trigger solutions are available for the Genesis? :mrgreen:
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 16:01
What kind of wireless trigger solutions are available for the Genesis? :mrgreen:
Any wireless trigger available will work with the Genesis strobes. A trigger is just a switch. Once you plug in to the strobe the trigger completes the circuit and triggers the strobe. It's just a question or making sure you have the right cable and/or adapters and that the polarity is correct.
wickerprints
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 16:05
Hmmmm... can you recommend any particular triggers? The Elinchrom skyports? PWs? Cactus? So many choices...some much more expensive than others... :(
TMR Design
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 16:11
Hmmmm... can you recommend any particular triggers? The Elinchrom skyports? PWs? Cactus? So many choices...some much more expensive than others... :(
Many people are using the Cactus triggers but I do hear a lot about units failing or those that are DOA. The Yongnuo seems to be getting good reviews. If you want to step up a bit I continually hear great things about the Paul Buff Cynbersyncs. Unless you have a reason to get Skyports or Pocket Wizards I would sat there's no need from them and you can save quite a bit of money by getting one of the other solutions.
If I were not using Skyports and Pocket Wizards and didn't need the features and functionality they offer I'd probably get the Cybersyncs. Price is nice and they just work.
gonzogolf
24th of August 2009 (Mon), 16:18
The cybersyncs are so simple, and the quality is great. Unless you have a compelling reason to go elsewhere I recommend them.
imahawki
31st of August 2009 (Mon), 14:35
I'm using the Cactus V4 to trigger mine (did I already say that, I'm losing track of threads?) I haven't had any issues other than the original issue that the transmitter shipped with a dead battery. Once I corrected that I've been golden.
LowerO
9th of September 2009 (Wed), 16:43
I've been asked to take some photos at a local ball (new thing for me) and need to buy a lighting setup. The Genesis 200 kit looks good, but will it be powerful enough for group shots - probably max 4 people (2 couples)?
abdul10000
11th of September 2009 (Fri), 23:13
http://www.lancerfan.com/images/hosted/Collage3.jpg
how did you light the yellow background, and was the yellow color a gel effect or added in post processing?
Thanks
57hardtop
12th of September 2009 (Sat), 12:31
I just thought I'd share what I believe is is a great alternative to the high priced octoboxes for the Calumet Genesis lights...I just bought one of these (http://cgi.ebay.com/Octagonal-Softbox-150cm-Eggcrate-Grid-for-Elinchrom_W0QQitemZ200375474085QQcmdZViewItemQQptZ LH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2ea74f17a5&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14) off ebay and received it yesterday. It went together perfectly...although the directions are in Chinese...all it took was a little common sense (along with the bad photos included with the directions). Anyways, it's a 59" octo, with inner baffle and outer diffuser, with fabric egg crate grid, and what tops it all off, it even comes with a Elinchrom style METAL speedring...all for about $77 DELIVERED! It took about 10 minutes start to finish to put it together for the first time, and it mounted AND LOCKED to my Genesis 400 perfectly!!! Now, I know this probably won't throw the light off as perfect as the Elinchrom octo, but it also doesn't cost $300, so for my needs (and budget), it's a fantastic bargain...one of those that almost seem too good to be true. The build quality is not of the $300 calibur either, but it's not a piece of junk...thick fabric, good rods, the speedring/mount is metal and solid...you can't beat it! FYI...At the time of this post, it says the guy has 8 of these (with the Elinchrom speedring/mount) left...also, I have absolutely no affiliation this seller...just thought I'd share what I think is a great find...hell, the speedring alone is worth the money...it's like getting a free 59" octo ;)
vivala1210
12th of September 2009 (Sat), 12:58
for product photography such as engine parts, would the 2 genesis 200 light kit be enough light to eliminate most of the shadows? all of these products are on white background, and we would like to have the background as white as possible and have less time in ps to remove the shadows. Here are the current pictures right now. And these shots are for ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-05-2-7L-Chrysler-Concorde-EER-Crankshaft-Bearings_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em1 4Q2el1262QQhashZitem33536f8906QQitemZ220443150598Q QptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
mufutau55
12th of September 2009 (Sat), 14:00
I agreed with you, this ebay seller have good stuffs. I also got 80cm Octagonal Softbox in Bowens mount from him. The product was nice..
Mufutau
I just thought I'd share what I believe is is a great alternative to the high priced octoboxes for the Calumet Genesis lights...I just bought one of these (http://cgi.ebay.com/Octagonal-Softbox-150cm-Eggcrate-Grid-for-Elinchrom_W0QQitemZ200375474085QQcmdZViewItemQQptZ LH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2ea74f17a5&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14) off ebay and received it yesterday. It went together perfectly...although the directions are in Chinese...all it took was a little common sense (along with the bad photos included with the directions). Anyways, it's a 59" octo, with inner baffle and outer diffuser, with fabric egg crate grid, and what tops it all off, it even comes with a Elinchrom style METAL speedring...all for about $77 DELIVERED! It took about 10 minutes start to finish to put it together for the first time, and it mounted AND LOCKED to my Genesis 400 perfectly!!! Now, I know this probably won't throw the light off as perfect as the Elinchrom octo, but it also doesn't cost $300, so for my needs (and budget), it's a fantastic bargain...one of those that almost seem too good to be true. The build quality is not of the $300 calibur either, but it's not a piece of junk...thick fabric, good rods, the speedring/mount is metal and solid...you can't beat it! FYI...At the time of this post, it says the guy has 8 of these (with the Elinchrom speedring/mount) left...also, I have absolutely no affiliation this seller...just thought I'd share what I think is a great find...hell, the speedring alone is worth the money...it's like getting a free 59" octo ;)
mrgooch
13th of September 2009 (Sun), 08:31
Can you speak to the size and handling of these Genesis 200's ?
57hardtop
13th of September 2009 (Sun), 09:59
11.65" x 5.5" x 8.2"...ten to sixty in about 2.5 seconds (really) ;)
slivr
13th of September 2009 (Sun), 10:03
how did you light the yellow background, and was the yellow color a gel effect or added in post processing?
Thanks
That image was shot against a white background using two Genesis 200's (setup as described in Zach Arias' online tutorial), and the yellow added in post processing for a local company's advertisement.
slivr
13th of September 2009 (Sun), 10:26
Gooch - the Genesis are larger and heavier than the Elinchrom D-Lites and have a more solid feel or "beefiness" to them ... however they aren't so large as to be clumsy. I can't say they ARE more solid than D-Lites - but their rubberized exteriors, metal handles, metal backplate and fan shroud, etc. make them seem so. Also - with the integrated handles built in to their backplate, I'm much more confident handling them, moving 'em around and mounting to light stands than when working with Alien Bees. I dunno - maybe it's because I'm left-handed or have small fingers but I always feel like I'm about to drop the Bees when mounting.
The controls on back of the Genesis are very "mechanical" feeling - providing tactile feedback with soft, audible "clicks" when buttons are pressed. It's similar to the mechanical feedback received when using an Alien Bee in that regard. Conversely, the D-Lites use a sealed membrane skin over their control panel which keep everything cleaner over seasons of use/abuse, but they have an altogether different sensation when changing settings which require less pressure and don't have quite as much tensile "feedback" to the fingers (though they also click softly like a membrane keyboard if I remember correctly).
The two biggest drawbacks to the Genesis (again - just my opinion) is the non-linear digital power controls (meaning 10 digits on the LED does NOT equal a 1.0 f-stop difference) and the modeling lamp that should've been engineered with the light socket inset INTO the front plate instead of being attached to its face which adds nearly an inch of distance the bulb sticks out in front. Otherwise I'm quite satisfied with them for entry-level studio lights. All three brands have benefits and drawbacks to their engineering or manufacturing but provide great results when used properly. I happen to favor the Genesis and saved a little money by purchasing them over the others when I plunged in, and can look forward to upgrading into Elinchrom's knowing my modifiers will continue to fit. :)
57hardtop
13th of September 2009 (Sun), 10:46
and the modeling lamp that should've been engineered with the light socket inset INTO the front plate instead of being attached to its face which adds nearly an inch of distance the bulb sticks out in front.
silvr, I'm not sure I understand what you mean...on my 200's the modeling light does not extend past the reflector...perhaps that's one of the flaws they fixed in the second production release, along with the new larger protective caps.
slivr
13th of September 2009 (Sun), 11:19
Sorry, 57 - I didn't fully explain my concern there. It's not an issue when using the Genesis standard reflector or directly lighting a scene. Rather - it becomes a potential problem when using attached modifiers OTHER THAN THE REFLECTORS such as some barndoors with grids, my Speedotron beauty dish, a small softbox with an internal baffle screen, etc. In those cases - the protruding model lamp can and does sit too close to some of them. With my Speedotron B.D. I had to modify it slightly to move the translucent disc farther out and away from that bulb to prevent burning and discoloration on the disc. That then effects the shadows and highlights the dish projects slightly, but I didn't want to use my dish without a modeling lamp. Another example: On a barndoor/gel mount system I melted one of my gels, and later deformed a plastic grid attached because of its proximity to the lamp and resulting heat. Similarly, one of my small softboxes has an inner baffle to diffuse the light that sits uncomfortably close to the modeling lamp so I usually choose to shoot without the modeling lamp when using it, which can become problematic in a darkened room.
To be fair, heat buildup and proximity are issues that should always be considered with virtually any modeling lamp but because the Genesis uses a tube-shaped, 3-inch JDD style halogen bulb ... and the lamp socket is attached to the front plate sticking out 1 inch (instead of being inset) ... the front of their modeling lamp subsequently sits closer to these modifiers than other lamp solutions would.
If you aren't using modifiers such as those then you won't experience any issues with their modeling lamp. And it doesn't effect me 80% of the time either, but is just one of those little nuisances that I consider a drawback.
mrgooch
13th of September 2009 (Sun), 11:50
Are the stands [which are included ] sturdy enough for the unit? If using a softbox will the stand support it?
slivr
13th of September 2009 (Sun), 11:59
Oh - No problem whatsoever with the stands. They're solid ... have a wide stance at the base ... and easily support large modifiers. Never an incident in my last 1.5 years of use.
57hardtop
13th of September 2009 (Sun), 13:01
Thanks for clearing that up for me slivr (and sorry for "silvr" in the previous post :o)...I have a question tho...why couldn't you just buy a different shaped (shorter) modeling bulb? Please forgive me if that's a stupid question...I'm not really schooled yet on all the intricacies of modeling lights (or the availability and cost) :o
slivr
13th of September 2009 (Sun), 14:00
By the way - great find on those octo-boxes, Hardtop. I'm somewhat interested since they're basically 5 footers. Anyway - the issue for me has been finding an alternative modeling lamp that's enough shorter to make a difference, without detriment to the flash tube or it's area of coverage. User Tetrode (Dave) found some that are a tad shorter but I couldn't find comparables in any of my area's lighting supply stores ... and in the end I didn't think they were that much different (in length) to warrant ordering online. And since the existing bulbs are halogen 150w with a "normal" screw-in base it's difficult to come up with a good alternate.
I'm also afraid of overheating the flash tube or burning the circuitry out or something. I know absolutely ZERO about bulbs, electrical or wiring so I'm hesitant to experiment much. Keep thinking when I run into one of my electrician friends I'll ask 'em about it.
mrgooch
16th of September 2009 (Wed), 14:07
Let's hear about the included softbox.What is your opinion of it?
hawkeye60
16th of September 2009 (Wed), 15:07
Let's hear about the included softbox.What is your opinion of it?
Seems well made and it was very easy to assemble. At 24X32 it's not a real large softbox, but for head and should portraits it's adequate.
I chose the softbox because they give you more directional control than an umbrella and I set it closer to the subject than an umbrella would allow. Closer means larger lightsource, which means softer light.
abdul10000
18th of September 2009 (Fri), 06:52
That image was shot against a white background using two Genesis 200's (setup as described in Zach Arias' online tutorial), and the yellow added in post processing for a local company's advertisement.
Cool, thanks for the feedback. Do you find it difficult to gel backgrounds to yellow? I like the color you got and I was never able to get anything close to it with gels. Perhaps post or yellow paper are the only way to get that kind of background color.
hawk911
18th of September 2009 (Fri), 08:25
Has anyone got examples of shots taken with the OECcamera ebay softbox? also, triggers were mentioned. I use the Interfit triggers- trigger was 80 for 1 trigger/1 receiver, and another 40 for the 2nd receiver. Not a bad price, and they are radio, not IR.
57hardtop
18th of September 2009 (Fri), 09:11
Has anyone got examples of shots taken with the OECcamera ebay softbox?
I'll try to post a couple over the weekend...I haven't had a chance to incorporate into my set-up as of yet...I'm looking forward to seeing the results myself.
slivr
18th of September 2009 (Fri), 09:52
Cool, thanks for the feedback. Do you find it difficult to gel backgrounds to yellow? I like the color you got and I was never able to get anything close to it with gels. Perhaps post or yellow paper are the only way to get that kind of background color.
My experience with gels is limited to using them as rim or accent lighting on the subject, rather than trying to color my backgrounds, though I've done a few background "spots" with them as well. I find black and/or dark grey paper backgrounds work best for me to reflect the gel tones in those situations, and darker gel colors saturate better of course than the light ones but it's difficult to create broad, even coverage with them (at least for me). Maybe yellow gel on dark yellow paper would succeed?
hawk911
18th of September 2009 (Fri), 09:54
I'll try to post a couple over the weekend...I haven't had a chance to incorporate into my set-up as of yet...I'm looking forward to seeing the results myself.
I'd especially like to see it gridded.
57hardtop
18th of September 2009 (Fri), 10:04
I'd especially like to see it gridded.
me too...stay tuned ;)
abdul10000
18th of September 2009 (Fri), 10:26
My experience with gels is limited to using them as rim or accent lighting on the subject, rather than trying to color my backgrounds, though I've done a few background "spots" with them as well. I find black and/or dark grey paper backgrounds work best for me to reflect the gel tones in those situations, and darker gel colors saturate better of course than the light ones but it's difficult to create broad, even coverage with them (at least for me). Maybe yellow gel on dark yellow paper would succeed?
My tests were limited to mid gray paper. I never tried black namely because of the paper role damage issue that I alluded to in another thread. I am thinking of buying a black sheet of paper just to do this test. If I find a yellow sheet I will try it too.
Regarding the other pictures, the right top and right bottom pictures were both shot against a black backdrop, correct?
Thanks
buzzyrabbit
23rd of September 2009 (Wed), 06:38
Just had a pair of the 200's delivered today. Must say how Suprised / impressed at the build quality. Now to learn how to use them effectively.
57hardtop
23rd of September 2009 (Wed), 09:32
The build quality is amazing for the price...now let the fun begin ;)
Hawk...quick update so you aren't hangin...I didn't get a chance over the weekend to get any shots using the octo...sorry :(...will try to post something asap
Apollo.11
15th of October 2009 (Thu), 22:22
they're on sale now too!
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