Diffuser/modifier for beach strobe lighting at sunset?

[FullStop Photography]

Recently did some model shooting down at the beach at sunset, using OCF and one of my Vivitar 285s (I would have brought my 580 but didn't want to risk it falling in the water). After some experimentation (lower shutter speed to bring in the background sky) I got pretty decent results, except the flash was kind of harsh. I was shooting the 285 bare, in wide mode with the wide diffuser screen.

Before I try another shoot with another model, I'd like to get opinions on what modifier or diffuser I should use to get a little softer light. I don't want to bring an umbrella or softbox, due to needing weights to keep the light from blowing over. I looked at the Lumiquest Big Bounce and Softbox III, but they both seem to be only effective at lighting close-up (i.e., lose too much power to light full-length). I could get a Stoffen Omni-bounce, but not sure that will do much either. Any alternatives? If I get really serious, I'll eventually invest in a AB1600 and their line of modifiers, but want to see what I can achieve strobist-style. Thanks.

[TMR Design]

I understand what you're saying but at some point you're going to have to bring some sandbags or weights and use a modifier of some sort. Tupperware and Sto-Fen's are ineffective outside and just waste power and light.

You might want to grab a small softbox. It helps direct and focus the light and depending on the box you get you can use it with or without the front diffusion material to control whether you have more specular or softer nonspecular light.

Many of us use a beauty dish when it is breezy or windy. You still want to stabilize the stand but the dish doesn't act like a sail, as umbrellas or open boxes will. Most beauty dishes are available with a diffusion sock to soften the light is desired.

Having a modifier like a softbox or beauty dish will give you a larger light source and when used close to your subjects, it creates an apparently large light source.

[FullStop Photography]

I understand what you're saying but at some point you're going to have to bring some sandbags or weights and use a modifier of some sort. Tupperware and Sto-Fen's are ineffective outside and just waste power and light.

You might want to grab a small softbox. It helps direct and focus the light and depending on the box you get you can use it with or without the front diffusion material to control whether you have more specular or softer nonspecular light.

Many of us use a beauty dish when it is breezy or windy. You still want to stabilize the stand but the dish doesn't act like a sail, as umbrellas or open boxes will. Most beauty dishes are available with a diffusion sock to soften the light is desired.

Having a modifier like a softbox or beauty dish will give you a larger light source and when used close to your subjects, it creates an apparently large light source.

Thanks, Rob. I had a feeling this was going to be the answer but wanted to be sure. Do you think my 24" Ezybox would be worth a try, or would it be a waste of time/susceptible to wind? Just hate the thought of having to lug around sandbags/weights. Appreciate the feedback.

[FlashZebra]

If you are going to be on a "traditional" beach, sand for weight should not be an material in short supply that would require you to lug it from another location.

Bring some sort of ad hoc bags, or other suitable containers and make your weights on location.

Enjoy! Lon

[Edbee]

Been wondering if gallon milk jugs could be used rather than sandbags. Fill one or two with water at the site and tie them to the light stand, lifting them a bit off the ground. They should weigh around 7.5 lbs each.

[TMR Design]

Thanks, Rob. I had a feeling this was going to be the answer but wanted to be sure. Do you think my 24" Ezybox would be worth a try, or would it be a waste of time/susceptible to wind? Just hate the thought of having to lug around sandbags/weights. Appreciate the feedback.

A 24" EZYbox will work nicely. You can use it with or without the diffusion panel. At any distance, it's a much larger light source than the flash head on your Vivitar. Up close it's a nice large light source.

You can either carry a few sandbags or do as Lon is suggesting and fill them on the spot. Some people carry water jugs and fill them up when needed and then empty them when done.

Having a few sandbags in your car is easy enough and not any big deal to bring with you on a shoot. I have a lot of them and carry them in a duffel bag but when I'm shooting with a very small and light kit I have a daypack that holds 2 sandbags and since it's on my back I don't even feel it.

Lots of options. I would figure out the best way to have some sort of weight for stability and just do it so that you can make use of modifiers. To not use modifiers because of a little extra weight is only hurting your ability to capture better images IMO.

[FullStop Photography]

Excellent advice, thanks everyone. Lon, you're right, sand is obviously not in short supply, just need to get some ad hoc bags that will do the job (large ziploc?) and empty them afterwards. And Rob, you're right, being lazy is not conducive to better pictures.

[TMR Design]

If you're going to use Zip Loc bags then make sure you place them in a heavier canvas bag of some sort. A Zip Loc is easily torn or broken. Use something with D-rings, loops or a handle so you have something or some way to attach it, hang it or bungee it to the stand. Keep your sand bags as low as possible at the base of the light stand. I place a sandbag over each leg brace so it's uniformly stabilized. It's about 30 pounds but once I'm set up that stand ain't goin' nowhere. :D

[Hermes]

Wear a white top, white trousers and bounce the flash off yourself. Large fill sources don't get any easier than that.

For sunset work, you really want to fill as subtly as possible. In a pinch I've bounced the flash off the sand on the floor in front of the model, and got far more natural results than direct lighting with any sort of modifier would have done, especially the tiny ones designed for speedlites. Make sure you're in control of the colour temperature of your flash and set the white balance accordingly.

[PhotosGuy]

at some point you're going to have to bring some sandbags or weights and use a modifier of some sort.There's a low-tech solution, too, which is to bring a friend to hold the umbrella. ;)

[TMR Design]

There's a low-tech solution, too, which is to bring a friend to hold the umbrella. ;)

Not always possible Frank. I do a lot of location work by myself and you can only be so resourceful.

[Joergeske]

Personally I use my velbon tripod, a super clamp, and a light stand and combine them all into a very sturdy wind resistant boom. I put the velbon as the base and open it up to where it is spread fairly wide so it has a very large support, then I mount the super clamp to my tripod head and use the clamp to hold a small light stand. Instant boom with a massive base that is very tough to blow over. Setup takes me about 3 minutes. Also I generally try to use rocks and such in the field to put over the legs when I need extra weight. Sometimes with sand or gravel I just dig the legs in a bit too.

[FullStop Photography]

Wear a white top, white trousers and bounce the flash off yourself. Large fill sources don't get any easier than that.


Interesting idea, does that really work?


For sunset work, you really want to fill as subtly as possible. In a pinch I've bounced the flash off the sand on the floor in front of the model, and got far more natural results than direct lighting with any sort of modifier would have done, especially the tiny ones designed for speedlites. Make sure you're in control of the colour temperature of your flash and set the white balance accordingly.Color temp: do you mean greater fractions of CTO as the sunset gets more orange? White balance: I shoot RAW, but what would you recommend the WB be set at?

[FlashZebra]

Been wondering if gallon milk jugs could be used rather than sandbags. Fill one or two with water at the site and tie them to the light stand, lifting them a bit off the ground. They should weigh around 7.5 lbs each.
For water wight estimation - "one pint, one pound, the whole world round."

Enjoy! Lon

[ed.]

Your softbox will be fine.
This was with a 60x60cm softbox on sunrise with a metz 54.
http://photo.edwardhor.com/shoots/0908-Eugena/images/20090801__MG_9305.jpg

[Hermes]

Interesting idea, does that really work?

It can do if you apply it intelligently. Of course you can also get a large reflector and strap it to your arm to do the same job with no lightstands.

Color temp: do you mean greater fractions of CTO as the sunset gets more orange? White balance: I shoot RAW, but what would you recommend the WB be set at?

WB is an artistic decision. You can stick a full CTO on the flash then set the white balance to 3200k and get a neutral image.

You can use a CTO and keep the white balance on daylight to keep the orange glow and the warmth in the image.

You can even stick a double CTB on the flash and do a custom white balance using a grey card with a 1/4 CTO in front of the lens, which will turn the sunset into a hugely rich, saturated, glowing orange furnace but leave the model just slightly warm.

[wilrobking]

I used a 60inch shoot through umbrella for this shot.
http://modelmayhm-1.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090828/08/4a97fcf758778.jpg

and a beauty dish for this shot:
http://modelmayhm-1.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090819/11/4a8c408f7574b.jpg

[FullStop Photography]

Your softbox will be fine.
This was with a 60x60cm softbox on sunrise with a metz 54.
Nice. Where was the softbox in relation to the model for this?

I used a 60inch shoot through umbrella for this shot.

and a beauty dish for this shot:


Beautiful! What power level did you set the Metz set at?

[Psychobiker]

I'd say about 6 foot up, camera left, fullcity. Watch the catchlights.

[wilrobking]

Here's a shot of my lighting assistant holding my lighting setup.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2676/3875727107_55dc5c135e_o.jpg