luckyart60
20th of May 2005 (Fri), 00:12
Using my 10D I always use the parameters standard setting which I believe is sRBG, recently I have started to use Photoshop Elements 3 for editing.
Realizing PSE3 uses Adobe RGB would I infact get any better results if I changed my camera setting to the same
Thanks
tim
20th of May 2005 (Fri), 01:07
If the 10D is like the 20D, you can select which color space you want to use. Also, in Photoshop (not sure about elements) you can select your default color space. It's a complex subject and i'm not an expert, but unless you do mostly web work you're best of setting everything to adobe rgb and converting to sRgb if you need to post pictures to the web.
J Rabin
20th of May 2005 (Fri), 06:49
Read up on color mgt. Study. Read more. Get really confused. Read more.
It depends on the intended purpose(s) of the image.
For inkjet printing, or conversion to CYMK printing, shoot Adobe RGB by setting parameter in camera.
If ONLY output is jpgs for web sharing, small 4x6 prints, etc., quick portrait prints against neutral backgrounds in studio, then sRGB is fine, though in camera sRGB conversion reduces image dyanamic (contrast) range, clips highlights and shadows, gives oversaturated reds and skin tones, etc. Sucks outdoor high contrast range professional use, except sports, where the action gets the attention, not ultimate image or color quality, and you generate too many images to post process.
If you shoot Adobe RGB, which is more true and neutral, as well as wider gamut, you need to be prepared to boost color saturation and contrast in PS Elements (which can handle any color workspace you throw at it). So, Adobe RGB requires post processing WORKFLOW TIME in PS.
If you do shoot Adobe RGB, to later task these images for web or for LCD projection panel use, you MUST make a copy and convert to sRGB for those uses.
Everyone evolves their own opinion and workflow based on what works for their style of photography and intended uses of the images. There is no right answer. You need to balance the posts you read against that. To understand where I'm coming from, FWIW:
I shoot EXCLUSIVELY RAW, convert the image to ProPhoto RGB 16-bit TIF as the widest gamut archive image. Then, the image copies get tasked to Adobe RGB, sharpened for print use or low resolution shrunken sRGB images for web or projection.
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