First wedding - lessons learned

[minatophase3]

Tim, what did you use for your group shots? Surely the Tamron 28-75 was not wide enough. I have a similar wedding to you in Sept - the bride didn't even want a photographer and initially wanted me to take 6 photos! Her last comments to me were that she wasn't fussy.

But she does want a family photo that will involve approx 15-20 people, and space will be confined if its raining outside as we will have to use a church porch.

Therefore I feel that I need something wider than 28 (x1.6) for these formal shots

thanks, Antaine.

I have used my Tamron with a 20D for most of the weddings I have done and it was plenty wide. The only time it wasn't wide enough was when I had to take pictures on a yacht, but I ahd the 16-35 for that so all was good.

-Tim

[tim]

i just tried it the way Tim described it. The only thing i couldn't do right is the step 9. by top layer, i assume you are talking about the original photo (labeled background) right? because when i held down ALT, i wasn't able to get it to merge. instead i just went with the layer and hit Ctrl + E and merged.

here's a quick sample i did from a random photo off the web. is this the effect you are teaching Tim?

Yes that's more or less the effect i'm after, though I don't have quite so strong a vignette. When I say top layer I mean the layer closest to the top of your screen, the background layer you refer to is what i'd call the bottom.

I have used my Tamron with a 20D for most of the weddings I have done and it was plenty wide. The only time it wasn't wide enough was when I had to take pictures on a yacht, but I ahd the 16-35 for that so all was good.

I found that the 17-55 and 70-200 are a great pair. Before when I had the 28-75 I had to keep swapping the 12-24 lens in when I was indoors.

[Thornfield]

I don't shoot weddings and never will. Prefer to have things more controlled. I would like to say though that almost everyone knows a couple that have recently gotten married and as we all know there's not much chance for the bride to wear her wedding gown again. So why not approach her and see if you can take portraits of her in her wedding gown. Get the husband involved (if they are still married :) ) and do some couple shots etc. This is good practise and can add to your portfolio for showing to potential clients.

[WhatEyeSee]

Tim thanks for the great tip.

I do something close to this, however what I use is Layer Fill, and then choose my color (allows me to choose a lighter color for that misty effect), and adjust the out put.

I will have to try your instructions on some of the ones I did and see if I like you affect better. :) thanks.

[EOS mE]

Yes that's more or less the effect i'm after, though I don't have quite so strong a vignette. When I say top layer I mean the layer closest to the top of your screen, the background layer you refer to is what i'd call the bottom.



I found that the 17-55 and 70-200 are a great pair. Before when I had the 28-75 I had to keep swapping the 12-24 lens in when I was indoors.

cool. thanks for teaching Tim! yup, i love my 17-55... and soon, i'll have a 70-200 & a nifty fifty f1.4. can't wait~~

[tim]

"Nifty fifty" is the term used for the 50mm F1.8, the F1.4 is a very different beast.

[EOS mE]

"Nifty fifty" is the term used for the 50mm F1.8, the F1.4 is a very different beast.

doh!... guess we'll need a new term for this beast then~ how's light sucker sound? haha :lol:

[madpup]

i found this thread very helpfull, thank you.
ps: i dont do weddings

[aacmckay]

"Nifty fifty" is the term used for the 50mm F1.8, the F1.4 is a very different beast.

I always thought the 50mm f/1.8 was the "Thrifty Fifty".

[tim]

I always thought the 50mm f/1.8 was the "Thrifty Fifty".

Has many names, I can think of a few for it...

[aacmckay]

Has many names, I can think of a few for it...

I guess I assumed because the 50mm f/1.8 was the "Thrifty Fifty" that the 50mm f/1.4 was the "Nifty Fifty". I digress....

[mizuno]

Has many names, I can think of a few for it...

Would the acronym POS suffice? :D

[aacmckay]

Would the acronym POS suffice? :D

Nope! For it's price it's an excellent lens. Considering the price to add it to your kit I really don't think POS is good acronym for it. Maybe POS should be the acronym for the 50mm f/1.2. It's not gonna be that much better than the 50mm f/1.4, and way overpriced.

[tim]

Let's not this thread on that track, there's plenty of other threads to argue on about that.

[Renboy]

Just thought I would bring this back up to the top.
Love this thread.
so this is the situation.

I'm new to all this. I'm getting pretty good pics of nature and sport. But now I have to shoot a wedding.

I really would rather be 2nd photographer then 1st but don't have a choice. Sisters wed. So what would be the most fool proof way of doing this. I shoot mainly on m. But too nerves to do that on her wedding day. My photoshop skills are very good, but my photography not so hot. Should I use my 28 to 300. Or try and lend a 24 70. Shoot on full auto, av tv. What is going to give me the most useble photo's?

Please help.
I'm sweating bullets.

[tim]

Renboy, if you search for "first wedding" in the wedding forum you'll get tens of threads of advice for people in a similar situation to you. I'd not use that lens, rent a 17-55 F2.8 IS ideally, or borrow a 24-70 if that's what you can get. Wide is good, but you can use the kit lens for tight situations. Regarding mode use whatever you're comfortable with, it makes no difference.

[tim]

Few more thoughts on what i've learned this year so far:
- Get an efficient workflow going. Tonight I processed 700 RAW images to proofs - ie looked at them, chose 350 to show the customer, did basic color/exposure correction, and batched out to JPG. I also put them into my online ordering system using EOS Template, made a Proshow DVD, and put together a pack to deliver to the customer. It took 4-5 hours. That's not all I did either, I did mailing and admin.
- Mailing and admin can take up a lot of time. Tonight I prepared a couple of contracts for people who recently booked, and entered their details into my CRM system - my backup in case of a house fire or theft.
- TEMPLATES are great. I have templates for emails when people send me an inquiry, with variations for people who are booking from overseas, for people who want a budget package, and people who want a full service with album package. I also have word document templates for common things, like emailing copies of contracts, a letter I put with proof DVDs, and general inquiries. Oh, and templates for making my labels which I stick on the front of odd sized envelopes. My document template is fitted so when they're put into a window envelope the address shows, which removes the need for a label.
- The new ACR in CS3 beta is great. Very quick once you know how to use it. Presets in there are great. I have presets to make my RAW files sepia with a vignette, B&W with vignette, extra contrast/saturation, to bring out backlit images, and probably others.

That's all for now, it's midnight, i've worked all day at my day job, 5 hours at photography, and i'm stuffed!

[Kiddo]

Those are some really great tips!! TFS!!

[jessiper]

Few more thoughts on what i've learned this year so far:
- Get an efficient workflow going. Tonight I processed 700 RAW images to proofs - ie looked at them, chose 350 to show the customer, did basic color/exposure correction, and batched out to JPG. I also put them into my online ordering system using EOS Template, made a Proshow DVD, and put together a pack to deliver to the customer. It took 4-5 hours. That's not all I did either, I did mailing and admin.
- Mailing and admin can take up a lot of time. Tonight I prepared a couple of contracts for people who recently booked, and entered their details into my CRM system - my backup in case of a house fire or theft.
- TEMPLATES are great. I have templates for emails when people send me an inquiry, with variations for people who are booking from overseas, for people who want a budget package, and people who want a full service with album package. I also have word document templates for common things, like emailing copies of contracts, a letter I put with proof DVDs, and general inquiries. Oh, and templates for making my labels which I stick on the front of odd sized envelopes. My document template is fitted so when they're put into a window envelope the address shows, which removes the need for a label.
- The new ACR in CS3 beta is great. Very quick once you know how to use it. Presets in there are great. I have presets to make my RAW files sepia with a vignette, B&W with vignette, extra contrast/saturation, to bring out backlit images, and probably others.

That's all for now, it's midnight, i've worked all day at my day job, 5 hours at photography, and i'm stuffed!

Thanks, Tim! Would you mind sharing your presets? I know they're for CS3, but I plan to update. Thanks again!

[tim]

Thanks, Tim! Would you mind sharing your presets? I know they're for CS3, but I plan to update. Thanks again!

Remind me in a month, bit busy right now.

[jessiper]

Remind me in a month, bit busy right now.

Thanks!

[WhatEyeSee]

Thanks for the updated info Tim.

I have some questions - when you did your basic adjustments w/ your pics did you do them in batches or individual? Was that the same w/ the JPG?

When you make your proofs do you crop or do you show the full frame? If you crop for the proofs what size?

Thanks in advance for your time.

[tim]

I have some questions - when you did your basic adjustments w/ your pics did you do them in batches or individual? Was that the same w/ the JPG?

I do them in batches, then if any look like they need individual attention they get it. What JPG? Only time I deal with JPG is near the end of my workflow, batching them out for my proofing system.

[QUOTE=WhatEyeSee;2904870] When you make your proofs do you crop or do you show the full frame? If you crop for the proofs what size?

I crop maybe 1-2% of the images. Or do you mean what resolution do I generate them out to?

[bcap]

Hello all,

I would like to say, first of all, Tim - great thread! I think the idea behind this thread is fantastic. Great way for first timers to learn their lesson before learning the hard way! Keep the tips coming.

Second of all - I would really like to see this thread (or a simplified version - a.k.a. what I am about to post) made a Sticky as I would hate to see the valuable information here lost in the mess of other "What settings do I use" threads.

Third of all - I hope I am not stepping on anyone's toes here, but, I have gone through all the pages of this thread and have compiled, simplified and organized all the "tips" into one document. I have posted this below. Please feel free to add to it and after a few more pages, I will re-compile and re-post.

Thanks again Tim and all who have given their valuable input!

Summary of Tips:

Planning
o Wedding days are frantic and very hectic. Make sure you are properly organized before you arrive at the Wedding. Once you relax, Wedding photography can be quite fun.
o Pack plenty of drinks (i.e. water) and easy-to-eat food (i.e. power bar, granola bar) in your camera bag. Assume there won't be any other food around on the day.
o Wear comfortable shoes.
o Dress like a guest, or at least tidily.
o Speak with the B&G before the Wedding and ensure you have a list of all the shots they want. The list should be split into pre-ceremony, ceremony, register signing, exit, reception and candid shots. Give them this list and make sure the Best Man and Maid of Honor sees the list and know what shots will be taken.
o Ensure that you have a list of required people to be in each shot (i.e. formal shots)
o The bride's mother/father can be a formidable allies

General Shooting
o Review the histogram regularly, even if you think you got the shot.
o What looks in focus on the camera’s LCD screen can look terrible on a big screen. If you're playing with depth of field, you can't judge the outcome from the camera’s LCD. Bracket the apertures.
o Be careful to get horizons level.
o Pay close attention to the basics (i.e. Lens Hood is on tightly).
o Using the sun as a backlight is good. If you are doing this, try and shoot diagonally so it doesn't strike your lens and cause flare. In strong sunlight have someone shade your lens so the sun doesn't strike it directly, even with a hood the flare can detract from a photo.
o When taking shots of objects (i.e. dress hanging from rail, cake shots) make sure your camera is perfectly square with the background. Diagonal lines aren't good for this type of shot.
o Beware of reflective backgrounds. If you get one (i.e. a curved varnished wood behind the alter) throw your flash away, or put the lights up high (i.e. 13 feet or more).

Posing
o Be nice, friendly, flexible and professional. People skills are important – what good is a great shot of a poor subject?
o Get to know the best person to organize the appropriate people for the formal photos - in advance. Make them feel important and involved
o Posing people well is hard. Read books before hand, look at other peoples pictures, and practice.
o Take a minimum of 3 pictures of each posed shot
o Take a minimum of 5 shots of each group pose
o Check the histogram after each shot.
o Don't cut off hands, feet, or anything else in formals.
o Pay attention to making sure the subjects have nice smiles and to clothing. All jackets should be done up, shouldn't have excessive wrinkles, should hang nicely, collars in the right place, make sure there's nothing poking out the bottom of the jacket. Similar for hair.
o Make sure people are properly centered if a background warrants it (i.e. in an arch).
o Studio lights are great for formals, if you have time to set them up and tear them down. Two lights are usually ideal.

Settings
o Shoot RAW. The pace on a wedding day can be frantic; you might not have time to get everything perfect.
o Fill flash should be used outdoors with a hot-shoe flash (i.e. 580ex) with a soft box or diffuser, mounted on a bracket at FEC around -1 1/3.
o There's often no time for monopods or tripods except during formal shots, use IS lenses or high ISO.
o Use a custom white balance. This will cut a lot of time off post processing.
o Use a flash at the reception if it's dark. ISO 1600 is acceptable if you are able to get proper exposure.
o Flash brackets are essential, diffusers are slightly less so.
o Know when to use which type of metering. Typically, partial metering is used approximately 60% of the time, evaluative is used when the dynamic range isn't too high, and very occasionally centre weighted is used.

Post Processing
o Don't underestimate how long post processing will take. Better to take one good photo in which everything is near-perfect in than to take five quick ones that need 15 minutes post processing.
o Develop an efficient workflow going.
o Mailing and administration work can take up a lot of time – develop an efficient workflow for this as well.
o Templates are great for all aspects of post processing, whether it be for administration or presets for proof quality photos. Have templates for replying to inquiries, with variations for people who are booking from overseas. Have templates for information for people who want a budget package, and people who want a full service with album package. Have templates for common things such as contracts, letters to accompany proof DVDs

Equipment
o Have the biggest camera at the wedding.
o If you're using a diffuser, bring twice as many batteries as you think you'll need, or a high capacity battery pack.
o Ideal minimum photography equipment:
- 2 x Canon EOS 30D
- 17-55 F2.8 IS - Ideal range on cropped sensor
- 70-200 F2.8 IS - Great for when you have to stay back a bit in churches, ceremonies, and receptions
- 50mm F1.4 or Sigma 30mm F1.4 - Great for low light shots, first dance and prep photos
- 10GB solid state compact flash
- Flash bracket
- 2 x 580ex (or similar – i.e. 550ex)
- Adequate amount of camera batteries
- Adequate amount of NiMH AA batteries - 16-24 of them
- 2 x Studio Lights with Stands and Umbrellas - optional

Suggested Books
o The Best of Wedding Photojournalism: Techniques and Images from the Pros, by Bill Hurter.
o Digital Wedding Photography by Paul Gero.

[tlc]

[quote=tim;1140618]Here are my recommended books - i'll add to this list some time:
The Best of Wedding Photojournalism: Techniques and Images from the Pros (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1584281227/qid=1135897953?tag2=headphonerevi-20).


just ordered! i also got the weddings and portraits book from annabel williams, she ahs some great ideas and tips as well.

[tim]

bcap - i've added a link to this thread from the sticky :) Thanks for sharing :)

[bcap]

Great!

Tim, I think you should add a pdf document to your "recommended books" called "Digital Wedding Photography: How not to mess it up by Tim" LOL

[tim]

Some things i've learned recently:
- What looks in focus on a tiny screen can look terrible on a big screen. If you're playing with depth of field you can't judge it from your little lcd. Bracket you apertures. *** THIS IS IMPORTANT ***
- If you don't have a flash bracket fitted use landscape and crop. Seriously. I haven't used a bracket in probably a year.
- Sometimes shots that are pretty average in color can look great as a high contrast B&W.
- Driving with one hand, eating with one hand, and taking a photo of the wedding car that's in front of you at the same time is a bad idea.
- Regular, repetitive backgrounds are effective even if they're brightly colored, and sometimes moreso if they're brightly colored. I suspect the reason is because it's regular and simple the focus is put onto the people, rather than the cluttered background. Brick walls, wooden sheds, and corrugated iron are all great.
- Pay attention to clothes. All jackets should be done up, shouldn't have excessive wrinkles, should hang nicely, collars in the right place, make sure there's nothing poking out the bottom of the jacket. Similar for hair.
- Using the sun as a backlight is good, try and shoot diagonally so it doesn't strike your lens and cause flare. In strong sunlight have someone shade your lens so the sun doesn't strike it directly, even with a hood the flare can detract from a photo.
- Take a checklist of essential shots for each section of the wedding until you're comfortable. When you're comfortable take a list of shots you usually forget.
- Make sure shoulders are NEVER parallel with the camera. Ever. Well, maybe occasionally.
- Make sure people are properly centered if a background warrants it. eg in an arch, or a gazebo.
- Rings reflect like mirrors, remove any bright light sources (eg windows), and if possible take ring shots in a dimly lit room. Alternately try and get something interesting as the reflection, maybe flowers, perhaps lit by a slaved flash or natural light.
- When taking shots of objects (eg dress hanging from rail, cake shots, everything really) make sure your camera is perfectly square with the background. Diagonal lines aren't good for this type of shot.
- When using strobes for formals, beware of lens flare. You can't see it on the little LCD most of the time, unless perhaps you zoom in.
- Use the spirit level on your tripod to make sure you don't need to straighten images in photoshop. It can take bloody ages if you have a heap of formals. I'm sure my left leg's shorter than my right leg...
- Beware of reflective backgrounds. If you get one (eg I had curved varnished wood behind an alter) throw your flash away, or put the lights up really really high (like 13 feet or more).
- Studio lights are GREAT for formals, if you have time to set them up and tear them down. Two lights is great. I have two AB800s (320WS), and i'd have liked more power if I could get it.
- If you use a backlight, a point source (eg the sun or a strobe) seems to work better than a large light source (eg overcast clouds).
- Again, wear comfortable shoes, take plenty to eat and drink, and relax! Once you get over the panic stage weddings are great fun!

(take a deep breath and continue reading)

- When shooting group photos outside in full sunlight try and put people in the shade if possible, and avoid speckled light. People shouldn't be facing into the sun or they'll squint. Meter for the sky, fill with flash (EC + 2 is often necessary). A CP-E3 or similar battery pack is really necessary to make this possible, since the flash is firing near full power, a 7 second recharge isn't really acceptable - 2 seconds is fine.
- Battery packs are great, love 'em. For the first year I owned one I rarely used it, lately i've had it in my pocket for most of the day. Is that a battery pack in your pocket or are you just pleased to see me...
- Regularly check your lens hood is on straight (doh!)
- Slopes are bad, unless you're skiing. Flat areas are best.
- Uncle Tom makes a great assistant, and appreciates if you help him get a few shots.
- I generally don't care about legs or bodies, emotions are what we want to capture, they happen way up top. Just remember to get a full length of the bride.
- You can't color correct until you get the exposure right. Exposure is always the first slider to play with.
- Shouting "smile you bas****" at the groom doesn't help when you're sitting at home at your PC.
- Luck is very important in wedding photographer. I find the more experience I have the luckier I get.
- Occasionally you meet someone at a wedding who's as crazy as a loon. Don't let them get to you. NB I was fine, nod and smile, the wedding coordinator almost cried.
- Sometimes the photographer is crazy. Bock bock.

[jeannemarie]

Tim, great advise! Still soooooo relevant. I'll check out the book you reccommend.

[Duncaji]

Having just shot my first wedding, I've a few learning I picked up on soon as I reviewed them.

1. Always be aware of backgrounds (less clutter the better)/
2. Use a reflector for the close in couple shots, and fill flash if shooting in shadow areas.
3. Keep control of crowd, and dont let other guests win the attention of your subjects. Be assertive and use commands to keep attention. I use 123 (take snap). I even waved to keep eveyones attention on my camera.
4. I used my tripod for 80% of the shots, and use a ball head with handle that means you can move it accurately and quickly.

[tim]

Tim, great advise! Still soooooo relevant. I'll check out the book you reccommend.

You're welcome. Check on the book thread link in my sig, it's updated occasionally.

Having just shot my first wedding, I've a few learning I picked up on soon as I reviewed them.

1. Always be aware of backgrounds (less clutter the better)/
2. Use a reflector for the close in couple shots, and fill flash if shooting in shadow areas.
3. Keep control of crowd, and dont let other guests win the attention of your subjects. Be assertive and use commands to keep attention. I use 123 (take snap). I even waved to keep eveyones attention on my camera.
4. I used my tripod for 80% of the shots, and use a ball head with handle that means you can move it accurately and quickly.

You have time for a reflector? I only do if I have an assistant and even then I rarely use one. That's a style thing though. Also tripods I only ever use in very very very low light, or as a light stand, though it might help keep people out of the way and the subjects attention focused. Agree with the rest of what you've said.

[bcap]

Tim - do you use a tripod for the group shots?

[tim]

Nope, I only use it as above. I have IS lenses and shutter speeds are usually above 1/100th anyway.

[Duncaji]

Nope, I only use it as above. I have IS lenses and shutter speeds are usually above 1/100th anyway.

Mmmm I'd be weary of anyone doing my wedding without the use of a tripod....and I've even used mirror lock up when taking group shots..I've found that images need way less sharpening in pp...

You must have a steady hand sir !

[Duncaji]

You're welcome. Check on the book thread link in my sig, it's updated occasionally.



You have time for a reflector?

I use an assistant, so I can concentrate on the photography and I just ask for stuff as I need it....relector means I don't have to use flash for evert shot with shadows to fend off and therefore get much better results....that said I missed it's use in a few from the other weekend, but managed to pull back what I needed PP....phew !

[tim1960]

4. I used my tripod for 80% of the shots, and use a ball head with handle that means you can move it accurately and quickly.

Although I'm no wedding pro and I've only done a few, I still cannot see using a tripod for that many shots. Anyone else use a tripod that much. I'm not being critical, just asking so that I can learn what I need to do to make myself better.

[bcap]

My reasoning for not using a tripod is becuase it limits you in the shots you can get (at least imo). You cannot be creative with angles, height, etc, etc.

[Duncaji]

Although I'm no wedding pro and I've only done a few, I still cannot see using a tripod for that many shots. Anyone else use a tripod that much. I'm not being critical, just asking so that I can learn what I need to do to make myself better.

What I like about using a tripod is 1. You can frame up, then pop your head up to look at people and choose the best time to use the cable release to take the shot, as well as engage better with your subjects. 2. You get a better chance of getting sharp shots every time, IS is of course helpful for handheld. 3. I use a spirit level, so know all my shots are straight, one less job in the digital darkrooom. 4. You stand out in no uncertain terms as the hired photographer....perception is improtant, esspecially as your next job could very easily come from word of mouth at the wedding.....folk go back to work and recommend you to others. 5. For big group shots, a tripod is in my view critical.....even a slight juddger makes all the difference between a good sharp shot up close to a blurry one, which panned back you might get away with....but will not compare to a shot taken with no judders !

[Duncaji]

My reasoning for not using a tripod is becuase it limits you in the shots you can get (at least imo). You cannot be creative with angles, height, etc, etc.

I agree with this in enclosed spaces (and of course indoors)....I do all my indoor shots hand held armed with a flash gun....but mostly all my outdoor shots - tripod (couple, family shots etc) these tend to be take your time shots anyway, and not candid, so with the likes of the manfrotto 322RC2 you can move the camera very quickly, than an a zoom lens (I use the 24-105mm F4 L Canon) and you should manage to get most of the important shots done.

[bcap]

I agree that the only time I would use a tripod @ a wedding is for the group shots ... it's important in my opinion.

I think your point about making it clear you're the photographer is a very valid one.

[-Justin-]

I have my first wedding coming up. Thank you for the extremely informative thread.

[rang]

I am shooting a wedding where the groom is an aspiring photog. He asked me to shoot it as the primary and I declined as I usually shoot subjects with fur, feathers or are a million years old. So he hired a primary and an assistant. I figured I would stay out of the way and shoot with long glass and zoom in for candid shots of guests and the couple mostly outdoors sans flash.
Indoor I would hang at the periphery and stay out of the real photographers way.

Does this sound like a good strategy?

[tim]

I would suggest not trying to take the same photos the hired ones are getting, there's usually plenty going on at a wedding so cover something else. eg if they're shooting family groups take photos of the guests talking - boring example but you get my drift. If they're shooting the cake cutting, you could shoot the reactions of the parents.

[rang]

Thanks Time for the reply.
Yeah, my goal was to stay out of the pros way I figured using the 70-200 and the 100-400 would allow me to stay at the edge of things and shoot the guests but still be able to get some close up shots of couples faces.

Shooting from that far I figured a flash would not be useful for two reasons:

1) my subjects would most likely be pretty far away.
2) if I did use a flash and I was closer than I wanted to be I ran the chance of my flash screwing up the pro's shot depending on where she is.
3) bright mid-day outdoors at a distance I didn't think it would do much good from the periphery
4) indoors I really didn't want my flash screwing up her shots.

Is my thinking ok here?

-rang

[rang]

Sorry Tim, just realized I fat fingered your name.

-rang

[tim]

Flash is unlikely to screw up their shot outdoors, maybe indoors (still unlikely) but might distract the subject or piss the photog off.

I don't see any point of taking the same photos as the main photog with a long lens from different angles, they'll have that covered and will get better pics. Instead take photos of something they're not shooting.

No worries about the name, you can edit your posts if you make a mistake, bottom left icon on a post :)

[cure]

thank you tim for those handy tips. i might have my first wedding gig..but im only going to be an assistant during weekends. it will be a good learning experience.

[MoMo Riley]

Tim, thanks for your help. I have a little more convidence, but the only thing I will be using is my small Canon G9 camera - no extra lenses. Been playing around with it a little more, but just might end up keeping it on auto......... and use the protrait mode alot.

[form]

My first solo wedding, lessons learned: Be sure to let everyone know to WAIT and be patient and slow when walking to the altar in pairs. Don't be lazy, get more of your equipment out and use it if you KNOW the photos will turn out better. Be sure to keep in close touch with the DJ or coordinator. The last is both serious and sarcastic at the same time: Demand they hire a DJ. DJs do a great job of keeping the photographer informed of what's to come.

[tim]

DJs do a great job of keeping the photographer informed of what's to come.

You should have a written day plan, even if you have to write it yourself. You also have to check it with the venue, DJ and co-ordinator, as i've had cases where we all had different versions. If the DJ is in charge then yes stay in touch, and even better make sure they know you need warning for anything coming up!

You learn eventually you need to either take control of the flow of the day, or at the very least be aware of how it's going and to stay in touch with key people. The trick is having influence over how things run without appearing to.

[vinunleaded]

thanks, keep it coming
ps threads like this should be stickied

[tim]

This thread is really old, it's linked from the wedding FAQ thread in the "business of photography" forum.

[Robert Butts]

As always, greatly appreciate your generosity and sharing information about wedding photography

Since we last spoke I have commitments from 4 different photographers in the area I live who are willing to have me assist 2nd/3rd shooter

Fighting the fight and am going to see how far I can go with the 40D, 17 -40 f/4 70-200 f/4 non IS, 100 f/2.8 Macro and 50 f/1.8 with EX580 II flash

Again, thanks and feel free to respond...if you have time

Best wishes

Bob


NB: This is now a fairly old thread, and most of the advice is pretty outdated as i've learned, but it might still be useful to some people. See links to the wedding FAQ and recommended books in my sig.

To help others doing their first wedding in the future, here are the lessons I learned from mine. I wrote these down for myself, and i'm sharing them to help others who're doing their first wedding soon.

First, a brief description of the wedding. It was done for a friend of a friend, who offered payment, which I turned down. I said they can pay my expenses, and if they like the photos they can make a "donation". I did as much organisation as I could leading up to the wedding, but they weren't at all organised, so for most things I had to wing it and work it out on the day.

The wedding was done in a large old house, the wedding was meant to be outside, but it was raining so it had to be done inside. The room the ceremony was in was so small that some people couldn't make it in, I was in the front row about 1 meter from the wedding party, along with a few other people with cameras. Formals were in a community theatre, under stage lighting.

I'll post some photos in a few days once i've done all my processing.


Ok, so here's my lessons learned, in approximate order of importance to me. If you don't like them or don't agree, tough, I wrote them for myself and it's what i'll do next time.
--

1) SHOOT RAW. The pace on a wedding day can be frantic, you might not have time to get everything perfect, at least not during your first attempt at a wedding. RAW let me rescue shots that would have been lost if i'd been shooting JPG.
2) Organisation is key. The pace, as I said, is frantic, and you might not have time to eat, drink, or think. Key things about this:
- Have shot lists for all shots the bride and groom want.
- Have a drink and easy to eat food in your camera bag/vest. Assume there won't be any other food around on the day.
- There's often no time for monopods or tripods except during formal shots, use IS lenses or high ISO.
3) Wear comfortable shoes. You'll probably be warm and running around a lot so dress appropriately.
4) Review the histogram regularly, even if you think you got the shot.
5) Posing people well is hard. Read books before hand, look at other peoples pictures, and PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE! If you've never given instructions to an inexperienced model before you'll be in trouble. Even with all i'd read and a practice session I wasn't prepared enough.
6) Take a minimum of 3 pictures of each posed shot, checking the histogram after each, and at least 5 shots of each group pose.
7) Use a custom white ballance if possible, especially under mixed light conditions. I'll cut a LOT of time off your post processing workflow.
8) Don't use partial metering if you're in a hurry, unless you have something like a bright background and a dark subject.
9) Be careful to get horizons level, especially for formal shots. If you have a line of people, make sure you're equidistant from the people at either end, otherwise the shot will look slanted.
10) Don't cut off hands, feet, or anything else in formals.
11) If you're using a diffuser, bring twice as many batteries as you think you'll need, or a high capacity battery pack.
12) Don't underestimate how long post processing will take. Better to take one good photo that you get everything right in than five quick ones that need 15 minutes post processing. You have to ballance that with getting the shot though.
13) Dress like you're a guest, or at least tidily. If you wear jeans you may get less respect and co-operation from guests, which you need to get shots.
14) Have the biggest camera at the wedding, that way people will be in no doubt who the offical photographer is. I had to move people with smaller cameras out of the way for some of the shots, and since I was polite they didn't seem to mind.
15) Use a flash at the reception if it's dark. ISO 1600's acceptable (just) if you get the exposure right on, but with random lights around spoiling the exposure you'll end up with a lot of noise, which means a poor image or lots of post processing.
16) Flash brakets are essential, diffusers are slightly less so.

Here's a couple of books I found useful:
- The Best of Wedding Photojournalism: Techniques and Images from the Pros, by Bill Hurter. Link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1584281227/qid=1135897953?tag2=headphonerevi-20).
- Digital Wedding Photography by Paul Gero. Link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1592004717?tag2=headphonerevi-20).

[tim]

Wow, it's been about four years since I photographed my first wedding. Time files eh?! Today I photographed a fantastic couple, perhaps my 80th wedding, I really have no idea.

http://mrwild.co.nz/unprotected/potn/gr1.jpg

http://mrwild.co.nz/unprotected/potn/gr2.jpg

Are these photos amazing? Probably not. Are they the best photos ever taken of this couple? Probably. Remember you're not competing with Yervant, you're competing with Uncle Bob.

Robert - your post doesn't have a question, but asks for advice. Master the equipment, then forget it. Become familiar with off camera lighting, then realise it's not always required. Remember the day is about the feelings between one woman and one man. Don't make it into a photo shoot.

[harroz]

nice clean images Tim,
time flies alright, I remember when you were moving into this, now look at you, it's pleasing to see, and more pleasing that you share your experiences and information for all throughout your process.
I couldn't agree more with everything, most especially the highlighted.


Wow, it's been about four years since I photographed my first wedding. Time files eh?! Today I photographed a fantastic couple, perhaps my 80th wedding, I really have no idea.

http://mrwild.co.nz/unprotected/potn/gr1.jpg

http://mrwild.co.nz/unprotected/potn/gr2.jpg

Are these photos amazing? Probably not. Are they the best photos ever taken of this couple? Probably. Remember you're not competing with Yervant, you're competing with Uncle Bob.

Robert - your post doesn't have a question, but asks for advice. Master the equipment, then forget it. Become familiar with off camera lighting, then realise it's not always required. Remember the day is about the feelings between one woman and one man. Don't make it into a photo shoot.

[ishmelly]

excellent advice tim!

[madscotsman]

Taking all the points on board, My First wedding shoot is Saturday!

[tim]

Wow, old thread! In the past five years i've photographed approximately 110 weddings. I've learned a thing or two since then...

[ShutteringFocus]

Wow, old thread! In the past five years i've photographed approximately 110 weddings. I've learned a thing or two since then...

Maybe its time to type up another one of those What Tim Has Learned threads...??

I know I've spent time reading the ones that do exist.

[tim]

Maybe its time to type up another one of those What Tim Has Learned threads...??

I know I've spent time reading the ones that do exist.

I'm working on it, it'll be... bigger.

[InnerSong]

Are these photos amazing? Probably not. Are they the best photos ever taken of this couple? Probably. Remember you're not competing with Yervant, you're competing with Uncle Bob.

Robert - your post doesn't have a question, but asks for advice. Master the equipment, then forget it. Become familiar with off camera lighting, then realise it's not always required. Remember the day is about the feelings between one woman and one man. Don't make it into a photo shoot.


Solid advice. Really puts it into perspective. Thanks.

[xPoorboyx]

Thank jeebus for this thread. I'm doing my first wedding for a friend this weekend and It's very relieving too read.

[danpass]

NB: This is now a fairly old thread, and most of the advice is pretty outdated as i've learned, but it might still be useful to some people. See links to the wedding FAQ and recommended books in my sig.

..............

14) Have the biggest camera at the wedding, that way people will be in no doubt who the official photographer is. I had to move people with smaller cameras out of the way for some of the shots, and since I was polite they didn't seem to mind.

..............
On a Halloween shoot I discovered a reasonable analog to this:



Have a big bag / backpack.



I had a Camelbak HAWG (the mil version, the good one), ostensibly to carry a big pile of water, light sweatshirt, a couple of clif bars and to stow my camera in case of rain.

I had a simple dSLR, no flashgun and had people coming up to me all the time, giving me the right of way, asking for a card, etc lol

[tim]

I have a ThinkTank Airport Security bag, it's big enough to hold two pro DSLRs, 4 flashes, 6 lenses, 4 battery packs, a drink, and snacks. I have an assistant for managing gear, and lighting. In an emergency I could just about take everything out of my bag and sleep in it ;)

[terbear]

Wow. I'm surprised you're still around five years later.

Really nice thread. I'm probably going to bookmark it for future use. :D

[tim]

They can't get rid of me ;) That was my first wedding, i've photographed about 110 weddings last count.

[Kelcey]

WOW! I'm shooting my first wedding in May and this thread is a huge help! I'm excited and very confident I can do it, but of course nervous as hell. These tips will definitely come in handy :]

[tim]

Kelcey, increase your gear (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=255604) (see that link) and perhaps reduce the confidence a notch. Take a look at Jerry's site (http://www.jerryghionis.com/), once you can do that confidence is warranted.

[terbear]

Kelcey, increase your gear (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=255604) (see that link) and perhaps reduce the confidence a notch. Take a look at Jerry's site (http://www.jerryghionis.com/), once you can do that confidence is warranted.

Is there any way to make the text on your 1st draft to have margins - basically tighter /narrower (i'm not trying to say it's bad / unprofessional, but i don't like reading from one side of my screen to the other)

[tim]

Is there any way to make the text on your 1st draft to have margins - basically tighter /narrower (i'm not trying to say it's bad / unprofessional, but i don't like reading from one side of my screen to the other)

Please clarify. First draft of what?

If you mean the first draft of the wedding FAQ, which is on another thread, then it's totally decided by your browser. No matter what size I make my web browser window the text fits properly to the screen.

[terbear]

Please clarify. First draft of what?

If you mean the first draft of the wedding FAQ, which is on another thread, then it's totally decided by your browser. No matter what size I make my web browser window the text fits properly to the screen.

oh. I feel so stupid, i should have just made the window smaller.... >_<

[tim]

Classic.

[terbear]

When you said "Expand your gear" to Kelcey,
how would this be:
- T1i (yea only one body =\)
- 28-135mm
- 70-300mm

I don't know when I'll be upgrading, but at the same time, i'm most likely not going into wedding photography in the near future either.

[tim]

Click on the text "expand your gear", that has my gear recommendations.

One consumer camera and two old slow low end lenses with no flash are completely insufficient to photograph a wedding. Most of the guests will have better cameras than you, which isn't good for credibility or respect, which you need to photograph a wedding. I've had numerous pieces of gear fail at weddings - bodies, flashes, lenses, pretty much everything at one time or another, sometimes randomly, sometimes when dropped. You must have backups.

[Focused Moments]

Tim is a legend :)

[tim]

A legend in his own lunchtime ;)

[ShutteringFocus]

[B]Edit, 5 years later
7) I never do a CWB any more.
8) I always use partial metering, or manual.
14) I still think this matters if you're a guest, but if you do everything else right it doesn't much matter. People are usually very impressed with radio triggers, and slightly puzzled about why you need them.
15) How I photograph wedding receptions (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=646469) has massively changed. See that link.
16) Flash brackets are a PITA, heavy and awkward, I haven't used one in three years. I don't shoot direct flash so they're pointless.

Why no CWB?

Why Partial Metering?

[tim]

Why no CWB?

Why Partial Metering?

I shoot raw and set the WB later. I use partial as I find it the most reliable metering method for the way I shoot in a wide variety of situations, but experiment and decide what works best for you.

[mebailey]

A few questions for Tim...
Shooting outdoor evening wedding in a few days. Light will vary from direct sunlight to shade coming from behind audience. I was planning to use 2 FF bodies (one with a 24-70 2.8 and the other with a 70-200 2.8 IS). I was going to use a 580EX on the 24-70 body on fill and no flash on the 70-200 body (counting on iso and IS). Is this a combo you would agree with? If not what would you change? Can I get away without using a flash bracket? I have one but dont like it. I plan to use a diffuser when it gets dark. There is no where to bounce the flash so I will have to use more or less direct flash +/- the diffuser.
I am planning to get as many of posed family shots before the ceremony (probably about 5pm) as possible. I plan to shoot these in shade again with a fill flash.
Any other words of advice would be appreciated!...
Thanks!

[tim]

Get another flash you need a spare. I haven't used a bracket in years. Direct flash with high iso is ok if you can't do off camera.

Sorry for brief reply, on iPhone. Best start your own thread for general advice.

[mebailey]

Get another flash you need a spare. I haven't used a bracket in years. Direct flash with high iso is ok if you can't do off camera.

Sorry for brief reply, on iPhone. Best start your own thread for general advice.

Thank you Tim!

I actually have several flashes so a spare will not be a problem.

When you say direct flash with high iso, do you mean high iso (say 800-1600) in Av mode still using flash for fill or do you mean using camera in manual mode with flash as the primary light source?

Other than the two items you mentioned do you agree with my plan?

[tim]

Re metering it depends on the lighting and situation.

I'd do it differently, lots of off camera flash, but your plan should be fine.

[mebailey]

Re metering it depends on the lighting and situation.

I'd do it differently, lots of off camera flash, but your plan should be fine.

Thanks again!