Photography for Formula one

[darrenis]

Dear all,

i would like to ask for some tips on how to capture nice formula one pictures.

i'm a new owner of a EOS500D and i'm a real amateur, i possess a 50mm and a 18-55mm normal lens, i would like to know what configurations would be good for photographing the formula one vehicles tomorrow.

i saw some really nice pictures on f1.com i would like to capture something like the sample that i have posted.

So i believe i have to use TV mode am i right, what config would be good for the shutter speed and what to use for ISO considering its a night race, but the tracks are fully lited heavily with flood lights.

thank you very much for reading my posts, i hope to get some feedback and comments.

thank you



darren

[Nightstalker]

The simple answer is that with the kit you have you won't be able to get that sort of image. With a 55mm lens you may be able to make out the car on the track but the shot you posted is more than probably taken with a 500mm or a 300mm and tightly cropped.

Oh and I should remind you that you are only supposed to post images that you have taken yourself as you are infringing copyright in the image you have posted.

You can by all means LINK to an image but do not attach it to the post.

[TeeJay]

TBH Darren, the one you "posted" isn't particularly good. Normally with this type of shot, the car is sharp (which this doesn't appear to be) and the background is blurred.

You are correct in assuming that setting shutter priority is required (either in TV mode or Manual) You would need a fairly high a shutter speed to help keep the car sharp (freezing the action), then "pan" the camera at the same "speed" and in the same direction as the subject (car) is traveling, as you squeeze the button, whilst keeping the subjects position in the viewfinder constant.

PRACTICE is the key here, the best thing you can do is try it out first on something slightly less "demanding" - maybe a family member cycling passed you.

TJ

[FlyingPhotog]

You're going to get the same replies here you got in your OTHER thread.

Add to that an admonition about double posts on the same subject.

[nik.hisham]

^^^^ Uhm... actually, you *don't* need a high shutter speed for this. When executing a panning shot, what you want is a shutter speed of about 1/125. If your shutter speed is too fast - say 1/1600 sec - you will freeze everything in the pic, including the wheels. If your shutter speed is too slow, your pics will come out blurry. Also, if shutter is too slow, and you do manage to get a good picture, the wheels will appear to be spinning too fast - see my pic below - that car was actually going pretty slow but the motion blur on the wheels make it appear as if though it is moving very fast and hence is not an accurate depiction of the car's speed. Its easier to start with a faster shutter speed, say 1/200 and practice with that and gradually reduce the shutter speed to about 1/125.

Take this shot below (50D | 70-200 2.8L IS USM | 2x TC | F5.6 | 1/100 sec | ISO 160):
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3356/3410031938_cf62f6c55e_b.jpg

Finally, you can do it with any lens but having the stuff I list below will help.
1. a longer lens e.g. something in the region of 200mm
2. a fast lens e.g. F2.8 OR
3. a not so fast lens (F4) paired with a camera with high ISO capabilities

But like I said, you can do it with any lens. In fact, if you are sitting facing a grand stand you should try panning with a fisheye or even your kit lens at 17 mm. If you nail the shot say at 1/200, you'll be very pleased to get a very nice wide shot of an F1 car in motion, with a nice blur of the wheels to show motion as well as just a mild blur of the grandstand in the background.

Good luck and don't forget to post your pics!

Nik.

[rockfordhx]

Well... From the image that you provided it is difficult to know if it was meant as a panning pic or not. Here are the options.

1. If you are panning, as suggested use Tv mode and keep the shutter around 125
2. If it is not a panning shot then pump up the shutter to around 800+ to freeze the image. The most flattering frozen shot is when you can still see that the tires are blurred giving you some sense of motion.

For panning shots make sure that you "following" the car while the shutter is open. If you dont the car will also be blured.

You may want to also invest in a telephoto lens, 55mm will be too short. If $ is tight get the 70-300.

[Rob Stewart]

The other thing to mention to stop you becoming too disheartened is that you've chosen one of the most difficult forms of sports photography to start with.

Assuming you are shooting from public access areas only you will have to contend with a lot of FIA spec catch fencing, grandstands quite a way from the track and lots of other unphotogenic equipment and persons between you and the cars. Add to that the high speed of F1 cars and the fact it's a night race and you've not set yourself an easy task!

However, looking at your equipement I wouldn't spend a lot of time trying to capture shots of the cars like you see the pros doing, I'd personally go for a lot of context shots - instead of trying to avoid the crowds - take shots that show the car in front of packed grandstands. Get shots of the car against the amazing Singapore back drop etc.

Don't get frustrated just enjoy it! :)

[Alexsi]

If I may add a question to this topic?
You guys are talking about panning shots...what about if you have a vehicle (formula) coming towards you with others in the background, and you are slightly trying to blur the others but keep the front vehicle in focus. I assume the panning technique does not apply? Would you use different settings? So, the vehicle is still moving but you cant pan because its coming towards you?

like this one:

http://www.carzi.com/wp-content/uploads/formula-1-race.jpg

[Rob Stewart]

If I may add a question to this topic?
You guys are talking about panning shots...what about if you have a vehicle (formula) coming towards you with others in the background, and you are slightly trying to blur the others but keep the front vehicle in focus. I assume the panning technique does not apply? Would you use different settings? So, the vehicle is still moving but you cant pan because its coming towards you?


For these shots it's just shallow depth of field so open up your aperture so it's kind of in the sub f8 region. This has the additional benefit of pushing your shutter speed up which you need anyway to prevent the car blurring as it moves rapidly towards you.

In the shot you linked to it also appears the heat haze from the cars has compounded the shallow depth of field look too. :)

[Alexsi]

thanks for your reply...
I was also wondering..when taking panning shots, do you use all focus points or jst the center one?

[nik.hisham]

I just use the center point.

Basically my typical settings would be:
-TV Mode set to anywhere between 1/60 to 1/160 depending on the speed of the cars.
-Auto ISO
-Center focus point
-Average metering (actually, any metering except spot)
-AF set to AI Servo (this works better if you have a USM lens)
-Drive set to continuous shooting mode
-Use back button focusing (On 50D, that would be C.FnIV.1 set to option 2) so that you can keep your thumb pressed on the back button for continuous focusing/tracking and release the shutter as and when required with your forefinger.
-Switch IS to mode 2 on my 70-200 (although I've forgotten to do this on many occasions and it didn't seem to effect the outcome)
-optionally, use a monopod for better stability.

[clicktor]

Put simply, start buy purchasing a telephoto zoom lens. Popular ranges are typically 70-200/300mm. The faster lens the better. By fast, i.e. is able to shoot at a constantly low apeture of say f/2.8.

[Rob Stewart]

I use all focusing points depending on the framing of the shot but mainly the centre one and the couple immediately below and either side.

[darrenis]

The simple answer is that with the kit you have you won't be able to get that sort of image. With a 55mm lens you may be able to make out the car on the track but the shot you posted is more than probably taken with a 500mm or a 300mm and tightly cropped.

Oh and I should remind you that you are only supposed to post images that you have taken yourself as you are infringing copyright in the image you have posted.

You can by all means LINK to an image but do not attach it to the post.


thanks man for telling, i will bear in mind to post a link in future. didn't know about it.

[darrenis]

Well... From the image that you provided it is difficult to know if it was meant as a panning pic or not. Here are the options.

1. If you are panning, as suggested use Tv mode and keep the shutter around 125
2. If it is not a panning shot then pump up the shutter to around 800+ to freeze the image. The most flattering frozen shot is when you can still see that the tires are blurred giving you some sense of motion.

For panning shots make sure that you "following" the car while the shutter is open. If you dont the car will also be blured.

You may want to also invest in a telephoto lens, 55mm will be too short. If $ is tight get the 70-300.

sorry, can i just ask, panning is a movement right, the movement of my body, following direction of the car, so how do i keep the shutter open?, i set it to continuous shooting until al servo mode, the shutter keeps opening and closing.

[Rob Stewart]

Yes darrenis, panning is where you 'track' or follow the car through your view finder and rotate your body as you pan. Good panning technique is a whole other topic that you will find loads about on this forum but the smoother and better your panning technique the better your shot will be and the slower shutter speed you will be able to use giving your shots more pleasing background blur and sense of speed (with the car still sharp).

If you're finding the car is blurry in your panning shots just increase your shutter speed until the car is sharp. Practice some more and then start to reduce your shutter speed again. Practice practice practice!

'While the shutter is open' was referring to your shutter speed. So say for example 160th of a second. Try to compare your shutter speed to the distance an F1 car will travel in that time and you'll get a feeling for why some shots come out blurry and others sharp. If you shoot at 1/1000 second an F1 car will only travel a short distance but if you shoot at 1/30 second an F1 car would travel quite a few metres. In that period of time you have to move your camera with the car in order to capture it as a sharp image.

Hope this helps.:)

[PhotosGuy]

sorry, can i just ask, panning is a movement right, the movement of my body, following direction of the car, You're better off choosing the best spot & background to take one shot.
Panning Question (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=589433)

[DC Fan]

A little topic drift here: the newest and most expensive camera may not be necessary to get F1 images.

http://www.kevinlillard.com/online/0922a003.jpg

http://www.kevinlillard.com/online/0922a010.jpg

These images were taken in 2000 with a Casio QV-8000SX point and shoot, among the best cameras available in an era when "affordable" DSLR's such as the Nikon D1 cost US $5,000 and the original Canon D30 was on sale for the unbelievable bargain price of US $3,000. Nowdays, you can get a Rebel-class DSLR and lens for the Casio's 2000 price.

No, the images from the Casio aren't as good as the pictures from 21st-century cameras, but it's sometimes useful to look at what life was like in the era before DSLR's were consumer products.

[Alexsi]

thanks for posting DC fan
Its good to go back in the day

[Chisholm]

Thanks Guys for this valuable info....... very good indeed
Tom