Starter filter?

[John_N]

Hi,

I've no doubt this has been asked may times but haven't found a clear cut answer (probably down to poor search-fu!)

Anyway I'm not well off so would have to stick to budget ranges such as Cokin-P (I blew all my money on a 500d + 250mm lens!), probably with a couple of straight ND filters and a graduated.

Could someone advise the best to get to start with (hopefully with UK sites or ebay http://www.ephotozine.com/images/smileys/smiley.gif).

My primary focus now would be on moving water/clouds and on keeping the sky from washing out on on landscape shots.

Cheers,

John

[Sauchterlonie]

If its mostly seascapes that your going to be shooting then you'd be best off with a set of hard grads.....If its going to be landscapes then you'd be best off with soft grads. I think most people tend to use the higher density versions, 0.6(2stop), 0.9(3stop).

Are you interested in standard ND filters too, longer exposures during the day?

I have a set of Hitech hard grads in the 'for sale' section if your interested.

Cheers

Simon

[John_N]

I'd be mostly for landscapes as I moved away from the sea :(

Thanks for the offer though and the advice.

[Sauchterlonie]

No worries mate. Any other help you would like just give us a shout.

Simon

[stargazer77517]

There are , IMHO, 4 primary filters everyone should have, Circular POL, .6 ND and a set of .6 and .9 grad NDs. Cokin are a good choice if you are on a budget for the P or Z holder ( and the Lee system, 4x6, if you budget will allow), and Hoya/ B&W for the CPL and ND screw in type.
Hitech are some good stuff (which I use) then the higher end would be LEE and on up to Singh Ray being to top shelf stuff.
The holders come in 2 different sizes, the cokin "P" and the larger "Z" which work better with the UWA lens. Lee has just the larger size (Which I use) and will fit with any 4x4 or 4x6 filters.

Now for the flowing water/ silky effect I use a 10 stop B&W, but any of the ND filters will do the same. Its a matter of how great of an effect you want and the number of stops the filter is.

[John_N]

Woh, great answers, but being very new I'll have to ask a few "basic" questions - sorry!

What is a "stop" (sorry I know this one is basic!)
Which of those options are screw on and which slot in?
With the screw in's wouldn't the lens rotate when focus is changed?
Do you happen to know the Cokin equivalent ND numbers for .6 etc (In'm guessing ND4)?
Do Lee do drop-ins? All I seem to see are film rolls - if so how do they keep in the holder?

I hope thats not too many questions (I won't ask where to buy as you're in he US :))

BTW - I love the old house pic and the Gal Sea wall water effect on your site

[stargazer77517]

LOL, No problem,
Stops. Maybe this can explain it better than I can http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-number

The CPL and ND would be ok for the screw in model, and the GRAD NDs would be the 4x4 and 4x6 dropins for a filter holder. (Cokin or Lee)

With a rotating lens the screw in NDs would be ok, But with the cpl, you would need to readjust the cpl after focus.

In dropins I assume your are talking the 4x4 4x6, and not the little round ones for the 500/600/800mm lens. yes they do, and as a matter of fact, they are made over there in the UK. Just google Lee filters and you should get their web site.
Hope this helps.

[John_N]

Cheers Stargazer that helped alot - I think I get f-stops now :)

So I think I'll be picking up a Cokin adapter (58mm probably from ebay) plus these filters - circular polariser (I understand that a polariser on its side works as a .3 ND), .6 ND plus a set of .6 and .9 grad NDs as suggested.

Hopefully Teamwork Photo (http://www.teamworkphoto.com/) will be able to put together a deal (it seems if you ring up you can swap out filters, so hopefully my email will do the same job:)), so I'll get Hitech.

If they don;t maybe I'll get them from Formatt (http://www.formatt.co.uk/default.aspx) as they appear a couple of quid cheaper (unless postage ramps it up of course)

One last question though - should I go hard or soft grads?
It will mostly be for landscapes, so Simon suggested the softs, but I seem to use my 55-250m quite alot and I understand the hards go soft due to the focus.

I guess what I'm asking is is there alot of difference with the hard and softs and could I get away with the hards for both my lenes (18-55 & 55-250), or should I go softs and run the risk of the gradient being even softer on the 250?

Hope that made sense!