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View Full Version : Focus and Recompose.... or Choose a Focus Point?


Kristy
26th of September 2009 (Sat), 20:21
Hey....

What is the general consesus...

Focus and Recompose... thus risking moving off plane and having an oof image....

or...

Choose an outer focus point that lands where you desire.... and risk the fact that the sensor may not strong enough for acurate focusing... thus having an oof image..

or.... Is there some secret method that no one is sharing about.>?

mike_d
26th of September 2009 (Sat), 20:24
I mostly use center point focus and recompose. If I'm so close (running up against minimum focus distance) or using such a big aperture that doing that could be a problem, I'll just manually focus after I've composed.

Roy G. Biv
26th of September 2009 (Sat), 20:27
If I have the time for the shot, I use a different focus point. If it is quick, I use center focus and recompose (I also bump up the aperature a bit)

RDKirk
26th of September 2009 (Sat), 21:09
Focusing to me is something too basic to clutter, so I use only the center point--no futzing--and recompose as necessary. The only times it matters is when shooting with a very fast lens (faster than 1.8 ) at a short distance, in which case I'd be focusing manually.

Radtech1
26th of September 2009 (Sat), 21:27
Used to focus and recompose, but that was an iffy proposition because of the obvious "are you sure that that is the same distance as the subject" issues. But with the 5D Old School, I found no comfortable way to quickly choose the focus point.

With the 5D Tech II, the focus point selector is on the little thumb button, that I can get to without taking my eye off the viewfinder. And all you have to do is point it in the direction you want, rather than scrolling through the focus points, over shooting, scrolling back, over shooting again, getting the one you want, and by that time the subject has hailed a cab and gone home.

Much better implementation in the Mk II, so now my shooting has changed for the better. Much fewer missed focus shots than the recompose method.

If that had been the only upgrade, the Mark II was worth it.

Rad

mike_d
26th of September 2009 (Sat), 21:40
Used to focus and recompose, but that was an iffy proposition because of the obvious "are you sure that that is the same distance as the subject" issues. But with the 5D Old School, I found no comfortable way to quickly choose the focus point.

With the 5D Tech II, the focus point selector is on the little thumb button, that I can get to without taking my eye off the viewfinder. And all you have to do is point it in the direction you want, rather than scrolling through the focus points, over shooting, scrolling back, over shooting again, getting the one you want, and by that time the subject has hailed a cab and gone home.

Much better implementation in the Mk II, so now my shooting has changed for the better. Much fewer missed focus shots than the recompose method.

If that had been the only upgrade, the Mark II was worth it.

Rad

I have a 5D (not MkII) and it works as you describe the MkII. The button can be pushed in any one of 8 directions to jump to the desired focus point or pushed straight in to toggle between single/multi point modes.

ShadowVlican
26th of September 2009 (Sat), 23:23
i select the closest focus point (easy to do on the 50D)

The Moose
26th of September 2009 (Sat), 23:33
I choose wherever I want because the 1D2 is so strong in every area.

Radtech1
26th of September 2009 (Sat), 23:35
I have a 5D (not MkII) and it works as you describe the MkII. The button can be pushed in any one of 8 directions to jump to the desired focus point or pushed straight in to toggle between single/multi point modes.


You are right, it is there. I honestly don't know why I never used it like that. Perhaps slightly different ergonomics (smaller?), or, more likely, I never associated that function with that button.


:o

FlyingPhotog
26th of September 2009 (Sat), 23:38
Moving Objects: Center Point + Crop In Post if I want it off center
Static Objects (Average to Deep DOF): Center Focus Point + Recompose
Static Objects (Shallow DOF): Off Center Focus Point

At razor-thin DOF, Focus and Recompose can yield OOF shots.

RDKirk
27th of September 2009 (Sun), 12:44
BTW, here is a comparison of focus/compose with using an off-center point, 100mm focal length, six foot subject distance, f/2.8.

This shows the visible tilt of the focal plane with focus/recompose (look at the hairline), but the focus on the right eye of the manikin is still well within the depth of field even at large enlargements.

Recomposed: http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/3908514678
Not recomposed: http://www.flickr.com/photos/rdkirk/3907739055

SOK
27th of September 2009 (Sun), 19:23
I try to keep things simple by shooting exclusively at F/22.



:D



I kid. Select focus point for me - easy on the 50D.

DAMphyne
27th of September 2009 (Sun), 21:19
You can "set" where the camera focuses?
Man, I gotta read that manual.

yogestee
27th of September 2009 (Sun), 21:22
Focus point either bang on the subject and if I can't get the focus point bang on I manually focus ignoring the focus point..

dustyporch
28th of September 2009 (Mon), 10:27
I said I have a secret method, but I don't... the true answer is I use both methods depending on the situation.

On the XTi, the centre point is more accurate, so I tend to use the focus/recompose method by default. However, if the light is decent and the DOF is large, then i will use the edge points.

The other method I use is to shoot with the centre point, and then crop the photo in post to get the composition I want.

Roy G. Biv
28th of September 2009 (Mon), 19:25
Choose an outer focus point that lands where you desire.... and risk the fact that the sensor may not strong enough for acurate focusing... thus having an oof image..

I never knew that focus points came in different strengths. Is there a chart somewhere that says that a 5D is better than a 50D is better than a 450D?
Im not trying to be a jerk, just curious.

Kristy
28th of September 2009 (Mon), 20:17
Thanks for the replies everyone.. and keep -em comming.. :)
Even the funny ones!

I'm trying to justify my shooting style.. but I'm not telling what it is yet... lol...

@Roy.. some outer focus points do have better cross-type sensors, but to the best of my knowledge that is only available on the higher end Pro-Series... and the new body.. what is it called again...? 7D?

remmeh
29th of September 2009 (Tue), 12:46
focus and recompose i find to be much, much faster and more straightforward than any alternate method i can imagine.

center point.

Lani Kai
29th of September 2009 (Tue), 12:58
OR you could just buy this new Hasselblad, which compensates for movement when you focus-recompose
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0909/09092802hasselblad.asp

mikekelley
29th of September 2009 (Tue), 13:09
I try to focus using one of the points, however sometimes thats tricky so i'll select the focus point closest to where i want to focus and go from there.

when using super shallow DOF sometimes this isn't an option so i'm limited to the focus points in the camera.

joedlh
29th of September 2009 (Tue), 13:11
I haven't seen any responses that addressed the difference between one-shot and AI-Servo. Focus and recompose will be appropriate with static objects in one-shot mode. If I'm in AI-Servo (or AI Focus), the camera (xxD) will pick something else on which to focus if I recompose and it moves the active sensor off the target.

AxxisPhoto
29th of September 2009 (Tue), 13:25
When shooting models, Focus and Recompose ALWAYS! For sports/action AI Servo. http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/party/party0039.gif (http://www.mysmiley.net)

j37r
29th of September 2009 (Tue), 16:36
Well, as I spend most of the time with FD lenses on my 350D I use manual focus all the time, same as I have to on my T90 and F1 film cameras.

John:)

chopperdave
29th of September 2009 (Tue), 17:24
for walking around, center and recompose, but if I am shooting moving things than you can't really do that =)

SkipD
29th of September 2009 (Tue), 17:38
Focus point either bang on the subject and if I can't get the focus point bang on I manually focus ignoring the focus point..Ditto except to add that I always use the center focus point.

Our old cameras like the two Nikon F cameras I have only had focus aids in the center. There's absolutely no difference in the basic techniques employed using the center focus point only in my 20D as compared to using the focus aids in the various focus screens in the old Nikons.

yogestee
29th of September 2009 (Tue), 23:35
Ditto except to add that I always use the center focus point.

Our old cameras like the two Nikon F cameras I have only had focus aids in the center. There's absolutely no difference in the basic techniques employed using the center focus point only in my 20D as compared to using the focus aids in the various focus screens in the old Nikons.

Skip,,my Nikons have no focus aids whatsoever.. I did away with the split screen focusing screens and replaced them with fine matte screens..

SkipD
30th of September 2009 (Wed), 06:26
Skip,,my Nikons have no focus aids whatsoever.. I did away with the split screen focusing screens and replaced them with fine matte screens..So did I, for the most part. I still have the original focusing screens with the focusing aids but seldom used them.

What I was really getting at, though, is that if one desired to use the focus aids in old film cameras they were always in the center of the viewfinder.

When using the focus-recompose technique, one has to be aware of the potential change in distance from the points of interest in the scene and the camera's film plane when changing the camera's angle. As long as the distance change is negligible, I've never had any problems with the focus-recompose technique. When working close in to a subject, the technique may not work well because of the geometry.

clicktor
30th of September 2009 (Wed), 06:31
I would say I shoot:

85% Center point only then recompose if necessary
10% Manually Select other AF point
5% Enable all AF points and let camera try to lock on to correct one

justaf IREMAN
2nd of October 2009 (Fri), 08:41
95% of the time I manually choose the focus point since I shoot mostly close to wide open. I started with center point then recompose when I first started shooting but that was with slower glass. Now that my glass is less forgiving at the apertures I shoot, I try not to move the camera much.

TheChemist
3rd of October 2009 (Sat), 00:29
Either MF or center and recompose. I only have one AF point to choose from!

Nistelrooydude
3rd of October 2009 (Sat), 10:29
I've never really understood how to focus and recompose (I know it has something to do with the AF-On Button), so out of ignorance I select an AF point.

Kristy
15th of October 2009 (Thu), 12:04
Interesting to see that the poll is nearly a split between focus and recompose, and center point...

You see... someone told me that I needed to quit toggling my focus points.. and I heavily disagree with it.. so I really wanted to see some solid opinions from people... :)

Thanks for giving your 2-cents and helping me realize that I'm okay after all. LOL...

Feel welcome to contine to contribute to the thread. I love reading the responses! :) Besides.. maybe someone really has a super secret method that I need to learn about.. lol

DStanic
15th of October 2009 (Thu), 12:19
With my Rebel (400D) I almost always stick to center and recompose. It's too much work finding the button and dial to change the settings.

But with my 30D, it's easy moving the multi-dial to do quick changes. :) If I'm using a prime lens or fast zoom, I'll select the AF point when I can.

puzzle
3rd of November 2009 (Tue), 08:02
I almost never use the centre focus point and always choose the focus point which gets me closest to my desired compesition, I then lock the focus by half holding the shutter button down and recompose my shot. Does no one else use this method? It seems to be the most logical solution to me for candid portrait shots for example, here is my justification:

When using an off centre focus point (the one closest to the subjects eye) you do not need to move the camera so far to recompose once the focus is locked. The camera's geometry is therefore changed less so than if you were using the same method with the centre focus point. So far, noone seems to have come up with any proof that the off centre focus points are any less acurate than the centre focus point (at least not in this thread), therefore I think that as the geometry change is minimised when using the closest focus point, this outweighs any difference in strength/accuracy of the focus points.

This is just my opinion and perhaps somebody with greater knowledge can proove my theory wrong?

Lastly someone asked about the AF - on button so here is a link that explains it, it's not something I have used before but seems to be very useful for a great deal of people so it's certainly something that I will be having a play with very soon. http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=GetArticleAct&articleID=2286

Toggle focus is also something that I am not currently using due to habit but I think I will also be changing this in the very near future as I also srtuggle with the rotation wheel method ... it's too time consuming and has lead me to many missed shots.

bjyoder
3rd of November 2009 (Tue), 10:24
I almost never use the centre focus point and always choose the focus point which gets me closest to my desired compesition, I then lock the focus by half holding the shutter button down and recompose my shot. Does no one else use this method? It seems to be the most logical solution to me for candid portrait shots for example, here is my justification:

When using an off centre focus point (the one closest to the subjects eye) you do not need to move the camera so far to recompose once the focus is locked. The camera's geometry is therefore changed less so than if you were using the same method with the centre focus point. So far, noone seems to have come up with any proof that the off centre focus points are any less acurate than the centre focus point (at least not in this thread), therefore I think that as the geometry change is minimised when using the closest focus point, this outweighs any difference in strength/accuracy of the focus points.

Canon claims that the center focus points on some cameras (your 50D for instance) are more sensitive with lenses that have a maximum aperture of f/2.8 or faster. Thus, say you're using your 85mm f/1.8, your center focus point will indeed be more accurate. Now, whether or not this matters is another debate that wasn't asked about! ;)

As for myself, it really depends on the situation. If I'm going to have time to switch focus points, I will do it if it makes sense. If I'm shooting more action-like things (sports or concerts, for example), then I'll stick with center point focus and recompose.

yogestee
3rd of November 2009 (Tue), 10:47
Canon claims that the center focus points on some cameras (your 50D for instance) are more sensitive with lenses that have a maximum aperture of f/2.8 or faster.

Ben,,,I've found this to be true on my 50D especially in very low light..

puzzle
3rd of November 2009 (Tue), 10:49
I know that were taking this thread further and further off topic now (sorry OP) but this subject has really caught my interest ... here are some sources relating to problems with the centre focus, recopose method for anyone else who may be interested.

http://blog.duncandavidson.com/2008/09/focus-and-recompose-exposed.html

http://www.outbackphoto.com/workshop/phototechnique/essay06/essay.html

_aravena
3rd of November 2009 (Tue), 10:50
Very true indeed! I generally use the center focus but if it's more than one subject, then I select. Also if I don't want to point the camera directly at them initially, then I select another.

Kristy
3rd of November 2009 (Tue), 11:22
I know that were taking this thread further and further off topic now (sorry OP) but this subject has really caught my interest ... here are some sources relating to problems with the centre focus, recopose method for anyone else who may be interested.

http://blog.duncandavidson.com/2008/09/focus-and-recompose-exposed.html

http://www.outbackphoto.com/workshop/phototechnique/essay06/essay.html (http://www.outbackphoto.com/workshop/phototechnique/essay06/essay.html)

Awesome links! I am the OP and don't think this is off topic at all. It has been an interesting discussion and I was trying to find rationale for my shooting style.. So thought it would be interesting to do a poll.

I am not a fan of focus/recompose. For me it just isn't as effective as landing a focus point where I want focus and shooting it. A well respected photographer I know pretty much blew me out of the water for shooting this way and told me I needed to re-learn my technique... I walked away from the conversation feeling frustrated, and in a state of non agreement...

So I started this thread. I was so happy to see you links posted above supporting my style! :) YAY!

Thank you all for contribuiting to a great discussion.

shooter mcgavin
4th of November 2009 (Wed), 00:14
I'd like to be able to use the other focus points, but on my 20d, just using the center point in low light is so much faster and more reliable. If I'm outdoors I generally will use the others too.

skidzam
4th of November 2009 (Wed), 06:17
For me, on my XSI, using center focus and recomposing with the shutter half depressed sometimes worked and sometimes didn't. So now, for static subjects with one shot, I set the camera's center point to focus lock with the * button then recompose and shoot with much better results.

For moving subjects, AI servo.

neilwood32
4th of November 2009 (Wed), 06:41
I use whatever focus pint that suits my goal - whether its centre or off centre.

AI servo - always centre point and leave cropping room.

Focus & recompose always seems like a guessing game to me.

Lani Kai
6th of November 2009 (Fri), 14:47
I use the quick selector button on my 5D Mark II, but this is a problem when I'm shooting vertical shots. With the vertical grip, I can't reach the selector. As a result, I'm often lazy and just focus-recompose with the center point.
Another reason is that the peripheral points hunt too much and tend to be noticeably slower.

drummerhc
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 15:21
Anything wider than f/2.8, I manually choose the AF point.

imahawki
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 15:25
i select the closest focus point (easy to do on the 50D)
What's the fastest way to do this. I know you can push the focus point button in the upper right and then hit the joystick. Is there a way to eliminate the first step?

SOK
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 15:57
What's the fastest way to do this. I know you can push the focus point button in the upper right and then hit the joystick. Is there a way to eliminate the first step?

There's a custom function that makes the joystick the full-time AF point control (meaning you don't need to push the button first)...

I have it set on mine, but the exact setting escapes me at the moment....

SOK
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 15:59
OK....

Try setting C.Fn III (3) to '1'

Mark_Cohran
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 23:28
I use the AF point closest to my intended point of focus to minimize focus errors due to recomposition. I've just always done it that way since I started using AF cameras.

philwillmedia
10th of November 2009 (Tue), 01:23
For me - Choose a focus point.
Sometimes I will even change change points if need be while taking a sequence or changing orientation of camera from horizontal to vertical or vice versa.

imahawki
10th of November 2009 (Tue), 06:22
There's a custom function that makes the joystick the full-time AF point control (meaning you don't need to push the button first)...

I have it set on mine, but the exact setting escapes me at the moment....
Thanks! and yes, that's the right one.

puzzle
16th of December 2009 (Wed), 09:46
I've been looking into this statement which Ben said about the centre focal point being stronger than the peripheral points. My conclusion is that he is correct, the central focus point certainly does focus alot quicker and more accuratly in low light. Outside in normal day light however, I also find the peripheral focal points are sufficiently fast and accurate and still beleive that in in daylight, this is the way to go.

RDKirk
16th of December 2009 (Wed), 10:19
I've been looking into this statement which Ben said about the centre focal point being stronger than the peripheral points. My conclusion is that he is correct, the central focus point certainly does focus alot quicker and more accuratly in low light. Outside in normal day light however, I also find the peripheral focal points are sufficiently fast and accurate and still beleive that in in daylight, this is the way to go.

If you turn the camera so that the perpheral point is perpendicular to a linear contrast (such as a collar or necktie), you will find that it's useable even in quite dim light. Using the same techniques I used with split-image rangefinders in my Canon F-1 cameras works with the peripheral focus points just as well.