View Full Version : Triggers and stopping motion
swartz
19th of October 2009 (Mon), 22:26
I was shooting my friend skate boarding tonight. 5d/b800/cyber syncs
I was getting 1/200 no problems.
I came home and notice all of my pics where alittle blurry. I dont think the shutter speed was fast enough to stop his motion.
How do would you stop motion?
dmward
19th of October 2009 (Mon), 22:34
by making sure the strobe is the dominate light.
The ambient should be two or more stops below the strobe exposure.
Thus, if the ambient exposure is 1/60 at F 4 then make sure the shutter speed is at 1/200 and maybe even get the strobe hot enough for F 5.6.
swartz
19th of October 2009 (Mon), 22:42
There was little to no light out. The alien bee being my only light.
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs272.snc1/9926_103989579615423_100000131453194_106579_707227 _n.jpg
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs252.snc1/9926_103989499615431_100000131453194_106577_480630 5_n.jpg
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs252.snc1/9926_103989582948756_100000131453194_106580_495057 1_n.jpg
psycorpse
19th of October 2009 (Mon), 22:44
Could these be out of focus? Since there isn't any ambient light in the photos I don't think that you would have any motion blur.
swartz
19th of October 2009 (Mon), 23:13
ya maybe. I was having trouble with the camera focusing.
Curtis N
19th of October 2009 (Mon), 23:14
Like most studio strobes, the Alienbees have longer flash durations at low power. You'll get a shorter flash duration by using more power. Shutter speed is not the determining factor here.
For even shorter flash duration, use hotshoe flash units at low power. Unlike strobes, flash units have proportionally shorter flash durations at lower power settings.
Also, try panning with your subject.
This is from two B1600 at full power.
http://performancephoto.smugmug.com/photos/527724284_RxBso-L-2.jpg
PacAce
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 07:02
Like most studio strobes, the Alienbees have longer flash durations at low power. You'll get a shorter flash duration by using more power. Shutter speed is not the determining factor here.
For even shorter flash duration, use hotshoe flash units at low power. Unlike strobes, flash units have proportionally shorter flash durations at lower power settings.
Also, try panning with your subject.
This is from two B1600 at full power.
http://performancephoto.smugmug.com/photos/527724284_RxBso-L-2.jpg
I concur with what Curtis said.
dtufino
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 10:24
Try using 1/250....
1/250
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3600/3473786095_90f2d9b737_o.jpg
1/320
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3475/3739582729_7a5a9be4ae_b.jpg
With the alien bees B800 you should get it up to like 1/400th.... easy....
Psychobiker
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 10:30
Depends on triggers - some won't sync that quick!
Saw some good stuff on flickr with a Vivitar 283
eviljunglenoodle
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 10:35
Use your ab800 at full power like Curtis was mentioning and it will be at it's shortest flash duration- shutter speed doesn't matter if there is no ambient light.
dtufino
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 10:38
Depends on triggers - some won't sync that quick!
Saw some good stuff on flickr with a Vivitar 283
Not really....
I use the CyberSyncs and trigger @ 1/400th...
Now, for continous shooting i suggest setting the B800 to 1/16th power and you can get at least 4 frames per second.... with flash.....
Curtis N
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 14:05
Try using 1/250.Useless advice, given the OP's shooting conditions. He is illuminating with flash only, and the only thing a faster shutter will do is potentially create a black bar at the bottom of the frame.
He is using a 5D which has an X-sync speed of 1/200. He would be lucky to get past 1/250, especially with the long flash duration of an Alienbee on low power.
I notice in the images you posted that there is some motion blur in some of the bike tires. This indicates that panning with your subject (as I suggested to the OP) is an important part of getting sharp images with moving subjects.
dtufino
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 14:10
I notice in the images you posted that there is some motion blur in some of the bike tires. This indicates that panning with your subject (as I suggested to the OP) is an important part of getting sharp images with moving subjects.
Incorrect on the panning part.... i was not panning, i was idle and when the rider hit that spot i wanted him to be in i took the shot.....
So are you telling me the 5D (with Alien Bees Triggers don't go past 1/200th)? Thats' weird... with my camera i get more than 1/320th with my cyberyncs and aliens bees B800 with no Black Bars at the bottom of my images.....
The only thing that will stop the motion blur o the "tire" are anything of 1\1000th...... (i wasn't looking to freeze the tires), If i wanted to stop the wheels i would go flashless.....
dtufino
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 14:14
Here's another sample.. using Alienbees B800, CyberSyncs
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2672/3934896031_031925c16f_b.jpg
Here's the Exif Data:
Focal Length: 50.0mm (35mm equivalent: 75mm)
Exposure Time: 0.0031 s (1/320)
Aperture: f/2.8
ISO equiv: 200
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
Photographer:
Copyright: D*TUFINO PHOTOGRAPHY 2009
Not black bars.....
SkipD
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 14:15
so are you tellign me the 5D (with Alien Bees Triggers don't go past 1/200th)?
Thats' weird... with my camera i get more than 1/320th with my cyberyncs and aliens bees B800 with no Black Bars at the bottom of my images.....You forgot to mention what model camera you have....
dtufino
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 14:20
You forgot to mention what model camera you have....
I have a Canon 40D and a Nikon D300..... Both Gripped.... and i use them both for shooting downhill, dirt jumping etc.....
dtufino
20th of October 2009 (Tue), 14:30
But you are right... the max sync speed on my canon is 250, while on my Nikon it's 1/320th of a second..... this is why i mainly shoot with my Nikon D300 more for sports....
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