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View Full Version : 10 MP Camera having severe blurring in warm light


blernblan
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 21:05
Hey guys, I have a 10 MP Norcent Digital Camera. This camera takes fantastic shots in bright light like daylight or with the flash on. However, if I try to take a photo in my house with the lights on at night WITHOUT the flash on I get severe blurring effect. Auto Focus is on.

Here's an example of my problem, if anyone has experience with this please let me know:

http://www.darkregions.com/DSCI0157.JPG

thebishopp
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 21:08
camera/hand shake

Exposure Time = 0.8"

blernblan
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 21:20
camera/hand shake

Exposure Time = 0.8"

Well, the camera/hand isn't shaking at all, so that's not the problem.

I'm not sure what exposure time means exactly. Is 0.8'' what you recommend I change it to or what it shouldn't be set at?

bizzum
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 21:33
Trying to handhold at that shutter speed will cause blurring of your images. Even though you don't think that your camera is shaking, even the slightest movement at anything less than 1/focal length will cause camera shake.

When you turn your flash off, your camera's automatic exposure will try to get the right shutter speed and aperture for a proper exposure, and since your shooting in low light, it has to slow the shutter speed down in order get a correct exposure.

Turn your flash back on. It is the only way you will get a sharp image in low light.

bomberman
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 21:36
lol... Is the camera on a tripod? No? Then it's camera shake.

0.8" means that the exposure time is 0.8 seconds. This happens when there isn't much light (ie inside without flash). It is extremely hard to hold the camera still enough for 0.8 seconds to get a shot that isn't blurry.

aebrown
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 21:38
I'm just gonna say it. Do you understand the balance between shutter speed (exposure time), f/stop, and ISO?

If not, that is a big, if not the biggest, part of photography. With photography, you're working with light, if you don't have much, it's a lot more difficult. You either need to make your own light (flash) or have a tripod.

Exposure time is the amount of time the shutter must be up in order to achieve a proper exposure e.g. an image that you can see, and not just blackness.

I don't have any good links on handy about where to point you, but I know other people will...

blernblan
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 21:45
I guess I just find it strange that my 10 MP Norcent has such problems without a flash on in dim light yet my 2 MP iPhone camera can take pictures just fine in the same amount of light? Does anyone know why this is?

CW Jones
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 21:47
Well, the camera/hand isn't shaking at all, so that's not the problem.

I'm not sure what exposure time means exactly. Is 0.8'' what you recommend I change it to or what it shouldn't be set at?


YES your hand or camera are shaking. He doesn't mean violently shaking. Even breathing will cause shake in the camera. Either get a tripod and use it, or use a flash of some sort when shooting indoors.

CW Jones
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 21:55
I guess I just find it strange that my 10 MP Norcent has such problems without a flash on in dim light yet my 2 MP iPhone camera can take pictures just fine in the same amount of light? Does anyone know why this is?


yes the crappy camera phone has auto ISO (most at least) and your DSLR does not, you have to set it most times. Try blowing up your camera phones picture to a 20x30 and let me know how it turns out, Because I am 100% sure the DSLR will be much better quality.

You have LOTS of reading to do. The fact that your camera is 10mp means nothing when it comes to lighting conditions and camera shake.

fivegallon
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 22:19
your iso was only 100, you could increase that to get a higher shutter speed...

apparently the camera has "anti-shake" capability also, did you check if that was enabled?

DreDaze
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 22:21
I guess I just find it strange that my 10 MP Norcent has such problems without a flash on in dim light yet my 2 MP iPhone camera can take pictures just fine in the same amount of light? Does anyone know why this is?

MP don't really mean anything...

i'm not sure what you can really do with your norcent...never heard of the brand before...but if you can bump up the ISO you might be able to get handholdable shots...but i'm sure the noise in the shot will be horrible


if you could return it and pick up a P&S with I.S. it'd probably have better results...

korrektor
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 22:24
want a fix quick and dirty?

set your camera on a 5sec or whatever timer.
place it on a table.
let it take a shot.
enjoy.

but = read your manuals or read up on ISO, Shutter speed and the rest of the works. have fun l;)

bkburns
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 22:47
I guess I just find it strange that my 10 MP Norcent has such problems without a flash on in dim light yet my 2 MP iPhone camera can take pictures just fine in the same amount of light? Does anyone know why this is?

Everything is a tradeoff. If all other things were equal (and they are not between your two cameras), you would see that the file from your iPhone will have more noise in the picture. This is generally unacceptable for the type of photography people invest in more expensive camera systems for.

The shutter speed of 0.8" means that the shutter on the camer was open for 8/10 of a second. If it is not on a PERFECTLY still object like a tripod, then even taking photos of still objects will have blur. It doesn't matter if this is on your Norcent or a $30,000 Hasselblad.

Something you can do in low light/no flash settings set your camera from 'program' or 'auto' mode, to 'TV' or 'Shutter Priority'. Select a shutter speed of 1/60 or faster. Thi will help with blur, and the meter in the camera will autocalculate the other settings and try to get the best exposure possible.

If you are really interested in improving your photography, or knowing how to compensate in this kind of situation, then you need to learn to understand the 'exposure triangle'. That would be ISO Speed, Shutter Speed, and F/Stop. I highly recommend (as do others on the forum) the book Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. Those three variables have a mathematical relationship, and knowing how to set and adjust them will help you take good pictures (or know where you can't) with about any camera.

As for the megapixels, they have nothing to do with getting a good exposure. Some will even argue that more megapixels past a certain amount is not even a benefit.

Good luck!

aebrown
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 23:37
I guess I just find it strange that my 10 MP Norcent has such problems without a flash on in dim light yet my 2 MP iPhone camera can take pictures just fine in the same amount of light? Does anyone know why this is?

More megapixels does not equal less blurry pictures. More megapixles means higher resolution. You can throw as many megapixels at something, and they're not going to help you much...

Whether it's with a cell phone, a crappy point and shoot camera, or a dslr such as yours, even the top of the line hasselblads, will all get blurry pictures if there is not enough light. It's a fact of life my friend. Unless you have a low enough aperture lens and a high ISO say f/1.2 and ISO 3200, you may get images in darker areas that are not blurry.

Using a flash in the dark is really the only option sometimes, but not using one requires some knowledge of how a cameras properties work together (ISO/ASA, shutter speed, and aperture).

SOK
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 23:45
You might get some benefit out of reading Ben's Newbie Guide (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=414088)

thebishopp
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 23:45
Well, the camera/hand isn't shaking at all, so that's not the problem.

I'm not sure what exposure time means exactly. Is 0.8'' what you recommend I change it to or what it shouldn't be set at?

Others have answered your first statement (the one about camera/hand shake) for me more then adequately :-)

the .8'' was the exposure time of the photo you posted. I got that from the exif data that was still embedded in you photo. Others have checked as well which is where they got the 100 iso and other data. In any case, if you aren't using a flash, and are shooting without a tripod that shutter speed is way to slow to compensate for camera/hand shake.

Once you get a good grasp of basic photography techniques I am sure you will do fine.

A really good thread I stumbled across on POTN for this is here:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=414088

Part 1 is specifically about aperture, shutter speed, and iso. A good read.

On a side note here is what my exif viewer shows about your photo:

[Image]
Make = NORCENT
Model = DCS-1050
Orientation = top/left
X Resolution = 96
Y Resolution = 96
Resolution Unit = inch
Software = Adobe Photoshop CS3 Windows
Date Time = 2009-11-08 19:04:19
YCbCr Positioning = co-sited
Copyright = Copyright 2007
Exif IFD Pointer = Offset: 244
[Camera]
Exposure Time = 0.8"
F Number = F2.84
Exposure Program = Normal program
ISO Speed Ratings = 100
Exif Version = Version 2.2
Date Time Original = 2009-01-11 19:39:15
Date Time Digitized = 2009-01-11 19:39:15
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Compressed Bits Per Pixel = 3.4055
Shutter Speed Value = 0.31 TV
Aperture Value = 2.97 AV
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F2.84
Metering Mode = MultiSpot
Light Source = Daylight
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 7.55mm
Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
Color Space = sRGB
Exif Image Width = 800
Exif Image Height = 600
Interoperability IFD Pointer = Offset: 712
Sensing Method = One-chip color area sensor
File Source = DSC
Scene Type = A directly photographed image
Exposure Mode = Auto exposure
White Balance = Auto white balance
Digital Zoom Ratio = 1x
Sharpness = Normal
[Interoperability]
Interoperability Index = ExifR98
Interoperability Version = Version 1.0
[Thumbnail Info]
Compression = JPEG Compressed (Thumbnail)
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
JPEG Interchange Format = Offset: 838
JPEG Interchange Format Length = Length: 3894
[Thumbnail]
Thumbnail = 160 x 120

aebrown
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 23:46
You might get some benefit out of reading Ben's Newbie Guide (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=414088)

Thank you for knowing a link lol!

thebishopp
8th of November 2009 (Sun), 23:46
You might get some benefit out of reading Ben's Newbie Guide (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=414088)


LOL, I just posted that link too... apparently as you were posting it as well lol.

SOK
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 00:04
Haha yeah must have hit the button at just about the same moment. Don't know whatever happened to Ben...his thread gets a lot of traffic!

fivegallon
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 00:18
More megapixels does not equal less blurry pictures. More megapixles means higher resolution. You can throw as many megapixels at something, and they're not going to help you much...

Whether it's with a cell phone, a crappy point and shoot camera, or a dslr such as yours, even the top of the line hasselblads, will all get blurry pictures if there is not enough light. It's a fact of life my friend. Unless you have a low enough aperture lens and a high ISO say f/1.2 and ISO 3200, you may get images in darker areas that are not blurry.

Using a flash in the dark is really the only option sometimes, but not using one requires some knowledge of how a cameras properties work together (ISO/ASA, shutter speed, and aperture).

http://www.ces-show.com/0048/norcent/digitalcameras/DCS-1050/ ;)

mike_d
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 00:25
http://www.ces-show.com/0048/norcent/digitalcameras/DCS-1050/ ;)

Uh, oh. A $179 P&S so its unlikely he has any manual controls. Tripod or flash it is. BTW has anyone heard of that brand?

thebishopp
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 00:41
Haha yeah must have hit the button at just about the same moment. Don't know whatever happened to Ben...his thread gets a lot of traffic!

I think the extra time it took for me to post the OPs exif data put my "submit reply" click behind yours lol. I don't know what happened to Ben, been looking forward to his next chapter for quite awhile lol.

ameerat42
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 00:48
Hi and now for the good news! There's nothing wrong with your camera that I can see. Plenty if good hints and info above. Or, use a tripod. Am...

SOK
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 01:05
I don't know what happened to Ben, been looking forward to his next chapter for quite awhile lol.

Either he's forgotten about it or that elusive chapter 3 is going to be a monster! :D

tzalman
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 04:20
No offence to the OP, but this is another example of unknowledgable consumers being sucked in by the big Mp. number. The sensor is probably like a 5x crop, 5x6.7 mm. Put 10 Mp. on that and I shudder to think what any ISO above the native would look like. The OP is probably right that his 3 Mp. phone with a similarly sized sensor gives better results.

egordon99
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 08:56
Buy a copy of Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure"

Read it...You will then understand exposure a little better. Good luck!

yogestee
9th of November 2009 (Mon), 10:28
I went away shaking my head after reading this..

"Norcent DCS-1050 camera - Design
The camera features will allow virtually anyone to take professional-quality images."

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: