Celestron Nexstar 130 SLT

[Eng27DCFD]

Is this a good scope for beginning photography?

[Celestron]

Read underneaqth the Nexstar 130SLT (http://www.astronomics.com/main/product.asp/catalog_name/Astronomics/category_name/2SBJNKJ2WAFH9J4Q7SSEEL3R73/product_id/NS130SL) pict .

[Adrena1in]

It's possible to photo with Newtonian Reflectors, but not as easy as with a refractor, so not really recommended.

[Eng27DCFD]

Well, I guess that answers that. What is a good entry level telescope?

[Celestron]

Well, I guess that answers that. What is a good entry level telescope?

I know there will be lots of suggestions but the best thing for you to do is to tell what your use will be and what is your budget for equip you can spend and be comfortable with ?? This can be a very $$$ hobby if your in for the long haul but if your a short timer then watch your $$ closely . I suggest you read these topics "How to Pick A Telescope (http://www.astronomics.com/main/category.asp/catalog_name/Astronomics/category_name/How%20to%20pick%20a%20telescope/Page/1)" before you really decide if this is for you and if you will really enjoy scopin . Owning a scope is more than just taking picts . It's to see what is not naked eye available to the human eye and explore space .

[Eng27DCFD]

Another stupid question....

What type of camera is used for astrophotography? I keep reading about long exposure times and I know it isn't with a Dslr...so what is being used to get these images?

[SteveInNZ]

The majority of astrophotos are taken with a DSLR. They are far better than almost anything you could do with film straight out of the box.
As you will have noticed throughout this forum, the mount is particularly important and while all the other forums say "spend your money on good glass", here it's the mount.
DSLRs can be modified to be more sensitive to a specific wavelength that is common in nebulae. For planetary photography, the tool of choice for most is a modified webcam.
Then there are specialized astro cameras that are pretty much the same things with the extra bits removed (batteries, hotshoe, LCD, knobs, dials, etc) and often have extra attention to keeping the sensor cool.
You will have spent a lot of money on other things before you outgrow a DSLR in astrophotography.

Steve.

[Nighthound]

Newtonians can make great imaging telescopes, unfortunately the model you've asked about isn't of the quality needed for long exposure work. It would be fine for observation but lacking in aperture and the mechanics needed for accurately and steadily tracking while imaging.

I've used a Canon 20D and 5D for about six years now. An astro specific camera(CCD) would be ideal but can get pricey as with most of the gear in this hobby and will have no daytime application. If you already have a DSLR, you can achieve some very nice quality with practice and patience. I'd suggest starting from the foundation up, research a good German Equatorial mount. It will be the backbone of any optics you decide to use. The longer the focal length of your optics, the more precise your tracking will need to be, so keep that in mind when choosing a mount.

My telescope preferences are refractors and Newtonians, both have their benefits and limitations. They're really no different than tools in the toolbox, you select the one that best fits the job on any given night. Unfortunately no single scope will do it all, so selection is very helpful. If you stay with the hobby long enough you'll buy, sell and accumulate telescope gear just like camera gear.

As mentioned, it would be helpful for us in our suggestions to know your maximum budget. There is more to this than just a mount and a telescope so accessories have to be considered as well.

[m3gator]

[quote=Nighthound;8986622]Newtonians can make great imaging telescopes, unfortunately the model you've asked about isn't of the quality needed for long exposure work. It would be fine for observation but lacking in aperture and the mechanics needed for accurately and steadily tracking while imaging.

I've used a Canon 20D and 5D for about six years now. An astro specific camera(CCD) would be ideal but can get pricey as with most of the gear in this hobby and will have no daytime application. If you already have a DSLR, you can achieve some very nice quality with practice and patience. I'd suggest starting from the foundation up, research a good German Equatorial mount. It will be the backbone of any optics you decide to use. The longer the focal length of your optics, the more precise your tracking will need to be, so keep that in mind when choosing a mount.


Forgive me for jumping in here but I am another astro curious newbie that was looking at the same set-up as the original poster. After reading the links you provided what would the feedback be for the celstron nexstar 6 se. Would be used to stargaze with my 10 year old (equestrian who wants to see horsehead nebula) and for me to try my luck with astrophotography. I have a 40d and rebel with lenses from 11-16 to 70-200is 2.8. I am very confused abut "piggybacking" the camera versus mounting it to the scope versus a "ccd" video camera. Any thoughts and direction appreciated :)

[Nighthound]

Forgive me for jumping in here but I am another astro curious newbie that was looking at the same set-up as the original poster. After reading the links you provided what would the feedback be for the celstron nexstar 6 se. Would be used to stargaze with my 10 year old (equestrian who wants to see horsehead nebula) and for me to try my luck with astrophotography. I have a 40d and rebel with lenses from 11-16 to 70-200is 2.8. I am very confused abut "piggybacking" the camera versus mounting it to the scope versus a "ccd" video camera. Any thoughts and direction appreciated :)

The Nexstar would be great for visual time with your son but I wouldn't get his hopes up on seeing the Horsehead Nebula. Even under the darkest of skies with a very large telescope seeing the Horsehead would be very unlikely. It requires a considerable amount of exposure time to resolve this faint object so actually seeing it with our light challenged eyes is more than can be expected.

The Nexstar is a Altazimuth mount, which means two separate drive motors are responsible for tracking the object you are focused on. This is fine for viewing but for long exposure imaging this is not ideal, which is why I mentioned a German equatorial mount in my reply above. A German equatorial mount tracks using one drive motor moving the camera/optics to counter the Earth's rotation in a single direction. The two drive motors of the Altazimuth mount produces what is known as field rotation in long exposures, a spinning motion produced by the dual motor corrections.

I have a friend that imaged with the 8" Nexstar and it was difficult to get over the one minute mark in exposure time. When using a mount for tracking you'll want to strive for 2 to 5 times that long on deep sky objects. So if the scope is mounted in a fork shaped mount or a single arm mount like the Nexstar it won't be a good choice for long exposure work. The Nexstar6 would be fine for Lunar work but beyond that would be frustrating and could zap your enthusiasm.

A good starter set up for camera and lenses would be the Astrotrac. But that wouldn't meet your needs for some sky time with your son.

This would be an OK starter mount but would require fairly short focal lengths to get longer exposures. (approx. 50-400mm)
http://www.telescopes.com/telescope-accessories/mounts-and-tripods/celestroncg5computerizedmount.cfm

As side note, I have these binos. They'd be a very inexpensive and easy way for your son to scan the night sky. With a decent tripod and a comfortable chair you'd be surprised what you'll see under dark skies.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/ci-skymaster-15x70-gb.html

[MintMark]

As side note, I have these binos. They'd be a very inexpensive and easy way for your son to scan the night sky. With a decent tripod and a comfortable chair you'd be surprised what you'll see under dark skies.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/ci-skymaster-15x70-gb.html

I just wanted to say, in the just over a year since I took a more serious interest in this hobby, one of the best "WOW!" moments was the first view through a reasonable pair of binoculars (not as big as those ones!)

You will see much more than with the naked eye... the colours of the stars are wonderful and the variety of other objects is amazing. Do use a chair... otherwise it really hurts your neck :)

[m3gator]

Thanks so much NightHound. I now understand the difference between tracking/mounts. Can I assume that I could put a telescope (like one of the original posters question)on that mount and then piggyback the camera/lenses so I can get a better view for my daughter and still accomplish some photos for me and maybe some video for her? Thanks again to you and everyone for your advice and I am continually amazed by the photos and knowledge on this site.

oops ... think I just found a happy medium .... anyone have experience with the Celestron C6-sgt?





The Nexstar would be great for visual time with your son but I wouldn't get his hopes up on seeing the Horsehead Nebula. Even under the darkest of skies with a very large telescope seeing the Horsehead would be very unlikely. It requires a considerable amount of exposure time to resolve this faint object so actually seeing it with our light challenged eyes is more than can be expected.

The Nexstar is a Altazimuth mount, which means two separate drive motors are responsible for tracking the object you are focused on. This is fine for viewing but for long exposure imaging this is not ideal, which is why I mentioned a German equatorial mount in my reply above. A German equatorial mount tracks using one drive motor moving the camera/optics to counter the Earth's rotation in a single direction. The two drive motors of the Altazimuth mount produces what is known as field rotation in long exposures, a spinning motion produced by the dual motor corrections.

I have a friend that imaged with the 8" Nexstar and it was difficult to get over the one minute mark in exposure time. When using a mount for tracking you'll want to strive for 2 to 5 times that long on deep sky objects. So if the scope is mounted in a fork shaped mount or a single arm mount like the Nexstar it won't be a good choice for long exposure work. The Nexstar6 would be fine for Lunar work but beyond that would be frustrating and could zap your enthusiasm.

A good starter set up for camera and lenses would be the Astrotrac. But that wouldn't meet your needs for some sky time with your son.

This would be an OK starter mount but would require fairly short focal lengths to get longer exposures. (approx. 50-400mm)
http://www.telescopes.com/telescope-accessories/mounts-and-tripods/celestroncg5computerizedmount.cfm

As side note, I have these binos. They'd be a very inexpensive and easy way for your son to scan the night sky. With a decent tripod and a comfortable chair you'd be surprised what you'll see under dark skies.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/ci-skymaster-15x70-gb.html

[Nighthound]

I haven't owned the Nexstar 6 sgt but I have owned a couple of SCTs.

The CG-5GT mount has a load capacity of 35 pounds. That number reflects max for visual use designed to keep users from overloading and stressing the motors and gears. For long exposure photography however that number should be around half that for the optimum tracking required to get the best results. The 6 inch optical tube on the N6 kit weighs 10 pounds so that leaves you about 7-8 pounds of camera and lens for piggy back use. If you remove the optical tube and shoot with camera and lens only then a larger lens can be used.

You'll need to learn how to collimate this telescope design. The optical mirrors will need alignment tweaks about once or twice a year if you handle the scope with care. This is done by pointing the scope at a bright star. I used Polaris quite a bit because I could adjust without having the mount running/tracking as Polaris is known as the North star and moves very little when viewed through the scope. There are 3 screws at the front of the scope on the center disc(back of secondary mirror assembly). These screws are adjusted as you watch the out of focus star through the scope. The link below is a great one to bookmark for reference on this. Also a set of Bob's Knobs is a great idea to make adjustments in the dark tool-free(no allen wrench needed).
http://astrosurf.com/legault/collim.html

A piggy back mount will be needed for your camera and lens. I like the rail mount because it allows you to slide the camera and lens the full length of the optical tube. If you use a rear tube mount bracket the telescope tube will be visible in the bottom of your widefield sky shots. The rail is also more solid, reducing the possibility of flexure caused by the camera and lens weight. Here's an SCT tube that I used to own, it shows the piggy back rail mounted to the top of the scope.
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y67/Nighthd/Astrophotography/Astro%20Equipment/?action=view&current=lx200r.jpg

You'll want to budget in some means of dew control with this telescope design in particular. The glass corrector plate at the front will form dew or frost quickly. A dew heater unit and a strap will keep it nice and clear all night. A dew shield is highly recommended along with the heater. You would want a smaller strap to wrap your lens as well. A dew heater with 3-5 plug in ports will give you the ability to run multiple straps, one for the scope and one for the lens.

There's much more to this than meets the eye but step by step it all comes together. Patience is key.

[Eng27DCFD]

How do you get the longer exposures? Using the bulb function?

[Eng27DCFD]

Nighthound I really appreciate the help. I understand you need an equatorial mount, now, due to the smooth tracking. I know you need the pieces to attach the camera, I think I know them anyways. But what I do not understand is how you choose the actual scope. Is a larger "REFRACTOR" scope the way to go?

[Nighthound]

Yes, bulb mode with a remote switch to begin and end long exposures.

I would be thinking more about focal length on a mount like the Cg-5 when shooting long exposures. 400-500 is where I would top out with the scope. Shorter lengths can be achieved piggy back with your lenses.

Refractors offer superior contrast over an SCT and no light lost to the central obstruction of the secondary mirror unit in a reflector like the SCT or a Newtonian. Quality refractors are generally more expensive than reflectors, reflectors like SCTs get you more aperture for the buck but also come with need for collimation, long focal lengths and slow optics(high focal ratio).

Personally I've come to really enjoy my refractors but I also like my Newtonian. I have a decent mount so the Newtonian(800mm) is manageable for long exposure work. The CG-5 would a big challenge at over 500mm for long exposure imaging.

There are countless variables in scope and mount choices but I would figure maximum budget and get the best mount you can. An 80mm ED refractor would be nice for imaging and offer some color correction. Orion has an 80mm ED, Astrotech has one that is just a bit more but very nice. The AstroTech is marginally faster optically. Faster scopes mean more light gathered in less exposure time, important if the mount you're using is not of high quality. So you see a faster scope and shorter focal length stacks the odds in your favor for an easier road toward success. Your camera and lens will make longer exposures even easier especially if shooting below 100mm. Starting out, shorter focal lengths will make the learning process a lot more enjoyable.

http://www.telescope.com/control/telescopes/refractor-telescopes/orion-80mm-ed-apo-refractor-telescope-optical-tube
http://www.highpointscientific.com/store/viewItem.asp?idProduct=3398