Buying my first lighting toys!

[christhefer]

I'm glad to say that I'm going to stupidly purchase my first lighting toys.. Stupidly because it'll just go on a credit card for a few months, but I feel like it'd be good to have. Right now I've been shooting with my Tamron 17-50 on my 20D and using my 540ez flash. It's worked for the night club scene, a wedding or two, and so on. BUT, now I'm thinking bigger. I'd like to do portrait/modeling photos along with band promos (definitely, the band promos) and I know that the key to those (well, I think at least) would be good glass and good lighting. I think my Tamron might be good enough for now (I hope), but I'd like to fork out some cash for something that might work out a bit better for this. Anyhow, this is lighting, so I call upon you, superfriends of POTN. I'm really thinking about going AlienBees but I don't know if I should buy a kit or build my own setup from their collection. I don't want to spend too much, seeing as how I'll be kicking myself for spending a ton.

READ THIS PART!

The stuff above, isn't really as important, lol..

My question is : If I go alienbees, should I get a kit or should I try to gather my own pieces and make my own kit from their equipment?

AND/OR

If I do get a kit, what would be a good route to go to obtain pictures/lighting of this quality? (Lens advice would be appreciated too. :])

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2675/3831420247_a2a349ce94.jpg
^^ Joe Perri Photos. Killer photographer from South Florida.

I appreciate any help you all have to offer. Thanks a ton.

Chris K

[RPCrowe]

Regarding the image you posted; unless you had a/c power available at the site, you could not light this shot with most studio strobes. Most studio type strobes which can be battery powered are in the expensive to astronomically expensive range. Using the Strobist approach (which is really pretty hit and miss due to the lack of modeling lights) could possibly work in the field using a couple of Vivitar 285HV hotshoe flashes or even better, the Sunpak 120 (series) flashes. The Sunpak flashes are a lot more versatile for use as a pseudo studio strobe because the reflector can be removed making it better to use with a softbox. The Sunpak 120 (series) flashes can also be powered with a powerpack which increases the number of flashes and decreases the recycle time. Unfortunately, the 120 models are only available used.

As far as your question regarding whether it is better to buy the strobes and accessories such as stands and light modifiers separately or as a set; the definitive answer is: It all depends.

It depends on the cost of the setup as individual items and the cost as a set, It also depends on whether the supplied items are of top-line quality.

You can often get light sets at reasonable prices used on eBay and other used outlet sites. I wouldn't go the el-cheapo Chinese copies but, you can often get strobes and accessories from reputable manufacturers at very reasonable prices.

I bought an excellent Sunpak 400 WS monolight and a 36" x 48" Chimera softbox, both in excellent condition for $100.

I also bought a great German-made Multiblitz portable three monolight kit with the three monolights, barndoors, snoot, grid, filter holder with four colored glass filters all packed in a suitcase size fitted carrying case. The equipment was in great shape and only cost $200 plus a few bucks shipping.

I am not worried about mixing and matching studio strobes from different manufacturers. I use the 400 WS Sunpak, the Multiblitz monolights as well as a pair of older White Lightning units. I have no problems with color balance.

[Colleen Gleason]

Regarding the image you posted; unless you had a/c power available at the site, you could not light this shot with most studio strobes. Most studio type strobes which can be battery powered are in the expensive to astronomically expensive range. Using the Strobist approach (which is really pretty hit and miss due to the lack of modeling lights) could possibly work in the field using a couple of Vivitar 285HV hotshoe flashes or even better, the Sunpak 120 (series) flashes. The Sunpak flashes are a lot more versatile for use as a pseudo studio strobe because the reflector can be removed making it better to use with a softbox. The Sunpak 120 (series) flashes can also be powered with a powerpack which increases the number of flashes and decreases the recycle time. Unfortunately, the 120 models are only available used.

As far as your question regarding whether it is better to buy the strobes and accessories such as stands and light modifiers separately or as a set; the definitive answer is: It all depends.

It depends on the cost of the setup as individual items and the cost as a set, It also depends on whether the supplied items are of top-line quality.

You can often get light sets at reasonable prices used on eBay and other used outlet sites. I wouldn't go the el-cheapo Chinese copies but, you can often get strobes and accessories from reputable manufacturers at very reasonable prices.

I bought an excellent Sunpak 400 WS monolight and a 36" x 48" Chimera softbox, both in excellent condition for $100.

I also bought a great German-made Multiblitz portable three monolight kit with the three monolights, barndoors, snoot, grid, filter holder with four colored glass filters all packed in a suitcase size fitted carrying case. The equipment was in great shape and only cost $200 plus a few bucks shipping.

I am not worried about mixing and matching studio strobes from different manufacturers. I use the 400 WS Sunpak, the Multiblitz monolights as well as a pair of older White Lightning units. I have no problems with color balance.

this information was very helpful to me, so thank you :)

[kenyee]

Depends on what time of day you wan to do this...has to be evening w/ lower powered gear.

At noontime, the sun is at f/16 iso100 f/200, so you need enough light to shoot f/22 which means 2 B1600's at least (that photo looks like one bare strobe in the back and one in the front through a big octa or shoot through umbrella). And you'll need a vagabond to power them...

[christhefer]

I really do love this forum. :]

Your input is greatly appreciated. I'm used to shooting under environmental settings or with a flash bounce, so I'm really new to the lighting thing. I've been reading up a ton on it though. There's quite a few nice stickies here that have really helped me out but this gives me a better general idea of what I'm looking for. So thank you :D