How to use the B+W 110 (3.0) Filter

[mypoppy31]

I"ve never ever used a filter on my SLR except a UV protective filter.
But, I've seen what the B+W 110 filter can do, so I ordered one yesterday...

I understand that you must prefocus your shot BEFORE screwing the filter on.
This is also a "10 stop" filter and since I've never seen one, I'm going to assume that
there must be 10 stops, from 1 to 10 inscripted onto the filter in order for you to know which stop you want to use for the shot. Am I wrong?..

And since this filter is totally black, I would assume that you can only shoot with it on sunny days only. Am I wrong?

From some of the terrific photos I've seen taken with this filter, I'm sure that Photoshop was used to enhance the shot!.. and, there's where I may have some problems...
I"ve only used some Photoshop Elements in the past, not PhotoShop CS, and am wondering if there's much of a chore in getting a good finished photo?...

I"d really love to find a website that would show me the steps involved in getting a very good finished photo using either of these PS enhancement programs. I'd really appreciate any information.

Thanks....

[CameraBuff]

The B + W filter is strictly 10 stops and it will enable long exposures in daylight. This can add a nice flowing motion to water and people can disappear from a scene. Too bad you already ordered your filter because you may of been interested in this one which can be adjusted for intensity http://www.singh-ray.com/varind.html a little expensive for my budget.

Doing a search on this board should get you some links to a variety of post processing posts; here is one link to get you started that has info on photoshop and elements http://photoshoptutorials.ws/

Have fun learning pp and don't forget to post some of those shots taken with your new filter!

[mypoppy31]

The B + W filter is strictly 10 stops and it will enable long exposures in daylight. This can add a nice flowing motion to water and people can disappear from a scene. Too bad you already ordered your filter because you may of been interested in this one which can be adjusted for intensity http://www.singh-ray.com/varind.html a little expensive for my budget.

Doing a search on this board should get you some links to a variety of post processing posts; here is one link to get you started that has info on photoshop and elements http://photoshoptutorials.ws/

Have fun learning pp and don't forget to post some of those shots taken with your new filter!
To Camerabuff: yes, I checked out the Singh-ray before I ordered the B+W 110. It only goes up to 8 stops, but I know its a great filter, but its also at least$340. If I were a Pro, I'd most surely have that Singh ray in my bag.

Thanks for the great info and that link you sent too..

[versedmb]

I have a similar 9 stop ND Hoya filter.

I use mine mostly in bright sunshine. Usually you need to compose and focus before screwing the filter on.

Here's one from mine, taken on a bright sunny day in Mexico...

20 sec. exposure...
http://brownphotography.smugmug.com/Other/Cabo/IMG9441-161/468343008_9igB7-XL.jpg

[Mashimaro]

^nice shot dood!

i've been thinking of those types of filters as well for longer shots in broad daylight :)

[argyle]

If you're camera body has the Live View feature, just screw on the filter, enable LV, magnify to 10x, and manually focus. Piece of cake. If you don't have LV, then yeah, you need to pre-focus and then attach the filter.

I use the Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo with my 5D2. I simply set the camera to manual, enable LV, obtain focus, set my aperture (usually from a hyperfocal chart), then adjust my shutter speed dial until I zero in the exposure. After that, its just a matter of hitting the shutter button. Having LV is a real advantage and timesaver when using really strong ND filters.

[mypoppy31]

I have a similar 9 stop ND Hoya filter.

I use mine mostly in bright sunshine. Usually you need to compose and focus before screwing the filter on.

Here's one from mine, taken on a bright sunny day in Mexico...

20 sec. exposure...
http://brownphotography.smugmug.com/Other/Cabo/IMG9441-161/468343008_9igB7-XL.jpg
To Versdmb: your photo is beautiful!... my question is this: how do the pictures look before they are post processed with Photoshop? My reason is that I don't really know how to us PS. But, I've just ordered the B+W 110 filter and am anxious to see how my results would be.

[mypoppy31]

If you're camera body has the Live View feature, just screw on the filter, enable LV, magnify to 10x, and manually focus. Piece of cake. If you don't have LV, then yeah, you need to pre-focus and then attach the filter.

I use the Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo with my 5D2. I simply set the camera to manual, enable LV, obtain focus, set my aperture (usually from a hyperfocal chart), then adjust my shutter speed dial until I zero in the exposure. After that, its just a matter of hitting the shutter button. Having LV is a real advantage and timesaver when using really strong ND filters.
But, I understand that if you screw in the filter, you can't see a thing because the filter is almost BLACK.
And, I do have live view on my camera. So, how can you focus with this filter already on. I believe that the focusing must be done BEFORE the filter is put on. Please correct me if I'm wrong here.
Thanks..

[argyle]

But, I understand that if you screw in the filter, you can't see a thing because the filter is almost BLACK.
And, I do have live view on my camera. So, how can you focus with this filter already on. I believe that the focusing must be done BEFORE the filter is put on. Please correct me if I'm wrong here.
Thanks..

Yep, wrong. The camera in Live View will "see" through the filter...no need to pre-focus and then attach the filter. This is how I use the Vari-N-Duo filter...I suspect your 10-stop would be no different.

[mleone]

Take the 10 stop off focus then put it on. I'm normally in no rush when using a 10 stop ND.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1094/3169385188_bbefefef59_b.jpg

[Jill-of-all-Trades]

You might be interested in this thread
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=767152&highlight=welding
We use welding glass filters. Much cheaper (mine was $7.99) and come in lots of different filter levels. All you have to do is adjust the color levels in PP.

[mypoppy31]

Great shot of the babbling brook!...my question is: did you process this photo with PhotoShop?...my reason is: I"ve seen a lot of photos taken with this great B+W 110 filter and many many of them have been "Photoshop'd"...

So, if this is a result of no Photoshop being used, then there's hope for me because I don't relish the thought of always using PS with each photo I take.

[argyle]

Great shot of the babbling brook!...my question is: did you process this photo with PhotoShop?...my reason is: I"ve seen a lot of photos taken with this great B+W 110 filter and many many of them have been "Photoshop'd"...

So, if this is a result of no Photoshop being used, then there's hope for me because I don't relish the thought of always using PS with each photo I take.

Then you may want to re-think getting a 10-stop filter. The long shutter speeds that result from using this strong of an ND filter will let some IR get through to the sensor, leaving a magenta color cast to the image. You'll either need to set up a custom white balance, or remove the color cast using post processing. So, get used to using Photoshop or some other image editing software, even if just for basic adjustments such as contrast, levels, etc.

And your camera has Live View...use it when shooting with this filter...it'll make life that much easier. Otherwise, why have a camera with features that you don't want to use? I can give you advice on how to use it based on my experience, but the rest is up to you.

[mypoppy31]

To Argyle: I notice on your equipment list that you've Canon 10D IR converted. I've always enjoyed shooting infrared...I find it surreal somehow and thats what is also drawing me to the B&W 110 filter.

I love the effect that the 110 gives, although never having used it. It should be arriving in the mail at anytime now. So, it looks like I'll be learning Photoshop Elements also, since its learning curve is less than the full PS version.

I've also attached one of my youtube slideshows that I took in IR about a month ago.
Please let me know what you think.

Thanks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWJIvOHiWmY

[ed rader]

To Versdmb: your photo is beautiful!... my question is this: how do the pictures look before they are post processed with Photoshop? My reason is that I don't really know how to us PS. But, I've just ordered the B+W 110 filter and am anxious to see how my results would be.


what the filter does is cut down the light entering the lens, which allows you to shoot with much slower shutter speeds. that's a 20s exposure on a sunny day!

PP shouldn't be any different....the picture won't look dark because it's exposing properly.

ed rader

[argyle]

mypoppy31: As I mentioned earlier, you'll get the best results by shooting in manual mode when using this filter. Normally, I prefer to shoot in aperture priority (Av). However, I find that when using a strong ND filter such as my Vari-N-Duo, the camera will severely underexpose the image in this mode. Switching to manual, then adjusting the shutter speed dial until the exposure dials in, is the best way to get the results that you're trying to achieve.

This was a test pic shot off the north coast of Kauai recently...strong daylight (not the best conditions) using the Vari-N-Duo. I used all eight stops of ND, plus the polarizing portion of the filter...in total, this was probably close to 10 stops of light reduction. This was a 30-second exposure in bright conditions, with the white balance purposely kept towards the cool side to bring out the layers of blue:

http://www.northlakephotography.com/Photography/Kauai-2009/Kauai0705web/712709410_iqKWA-XL.jpg

[mypoppy31]

To: Argyle: Stunning photo!...makes me want to go for a swim!....gorgeous!...

[argyle]

Good luck with the filter...and post some photos once you get the hang of using it. I used Live View for the shot that I posted above...its by far the easiest way use a very dense filter, and doing so will prevent you from dropping the filter if you were to keep screwing it on/screwing it off the lens multiple times.

[argyle]

To: Argyle: Stunning photo!...makes me want to go for a swim!....gorgeous!...

Not this beach. Hanakapiai Beach is on the Napali coast along the north shore of Kauai...its one of the most dangerous beaches on the island for swimming or surfing...was surprised to learn that dozens of people have drowned or went missing here. ;)

[mypoppy31]

To: Argyle....

I just received the B+W 110!...I screwed it onto my Canon T1i and went outside and attempted to shoot some stuff. At first, I was a bit confused as to how to get started.
I tried Manual and Aperture priority and they both got along with this new filter.

And, yes, Live View does work indeed!...I set my aperture to f/20 and shutter speeds from 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the shot....ISO at 100...manual focusing...all I had to shoot were the clouds overhead on this day....

I'll try to attach the shots I took. And, no, I"m not happy with the results, but at least I got some photo results, as bad as they were!..

The one problem I had was in the manual focusing. The shots could have been clearer.
And, how excited can you get in shooting clouds....dull.....

What I'm not getting here is, I can't figure out where the STOPS are. This is a 10 stop filter. I didn't play with this new filter for more than 10 minutes, and the weather got worse, and I stopped shooting. But Argyle was on the money about Live View!..what a blessing to not have to put the filter on and then taking it off!...insanity!...

And, when I first got this Canon T1i, I saw that it had Live View, but I NEVER ever use it
since I always prefer to line the shot with the viewfinder anyway...so, to my mind I had originally thought that this LIVE VIEW was just a wasted doo-dad on the camera.
So, was I wrong or what!....thank God Canon decided to put it in the camera.

So, please let me know how to find the filter "Stops"....does it have something to do
with the "dial wheel?"....
Thanks......

[argyle]

Good deal...Live View's a kick, isn't it? I wish that my original 5D had it

Not sure what you mean by "filter stops". The B+W 110 is fixed at 10-stops...there aren't any adjustments to increase/decrease the amount of exposure reduction as there are with the Singh-Ray variable ND filter. For example, if you meter a scene at a shutter speed of 1/1000, adding the 10-stop filter will reduce the shutter speed to 1-second (10-stops)...there isn't any in-between when using this filter.

Try this when using the filter (seems involved, but it really isn't):

1.) set up and compose your scene in the VF, then attach the filter
2.) set the camera dial to manual
3.) set your desired aperture/iso
4.) activate Live View, magnify to 10x; use the scroll button to find your main focus point
5.) focus the camera until the image is sharp on the LCD
6.) as you're watching the LCD, turn the shutter speed wheel until the metering needle is centered (you may need to depress the shutter button part way to activate the meter first)
7.) once the meter is centered, take the picture.

Hope this helps. One last thing...if there is any type of breeze, foliage and clouds will end up showing movement in the image (more so with really long shutter speeds)...much like when using an IR filter.

[mypoppy31]

To: Argyle: Great!, I've just printed out your instructions and will be referring to it, step by step...

If, by any remote chance, my photos ultimately approach "Greatness", I would have only you to thank, not only for your instructions, but for your supreme "PATIENCE!"...
I suspect you have the makings of a superb teacher of photography!... and, I'm surprised that no one has even mentioned that here.......

God Bless, and stay tuned for more of my feeble attempts at perfection!...

mypoppy31

[mypoppy31]

Today, the sun was out in full force!...so, I went to a lovely park in Larchmont which is so beautiful, that its like going into another world!.. and, this park is right on the water...

I've been there before, shooting with my Infrared filter. This time I decided to use a very new filter, the B+W 110.... I began shooting from many different positions and hoping for the best.

I'm attaching one of the very very few that came out just fair.. I did some post processing with iphoto editing, but it doesn't even get close to what Photoshop can do!..

I really don't have the heart to post the other photos.My shutter speed varied from 1 second to 30 seconds...I did find that with "Live View" enabled, that I could not focus well at all.
But, I did find that removing the filter each time to focus wasn't all that bad for me to do..

The big question is: Could Photoshop improve this photo?

[jdizzle]

Today, the sun was out in full force!...so, I went to a lovely park in Larchmont which is so beautiful, that its like going into another world!.. and, this park is right on the water...

I've been there before, shooting with my Infrared filter. This time I decided to use a very new filter, the B+W 110.... I began shooting from many different positions and hoping for the best.

I'm attaching one of the very very few that came out just fair.. I did some post processing with iphoto editing, but it doesn't even get close to what Photoshop can do!..

I really don't have the heart to post the other photos.My shutter speed varied from 1 second to 30 seconds...I did find that with "Live View" enabled, that I could not focus well at all.
But, I did find that removing the filter each time to focus wasn't all that bad for me to do..

The big question is: Could Photoshop improve this photo?

The one thing that sticks out in this photo is that the highlights is blown. When shooting midday, you have to chimp that histogram. :) It might be difficult to recover the blown out areas in photoshop.

[jdizzle]

Here's a sample from the very same filter. After several tries, I got what I was looking for.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a92/DJJUST/PierLegs2.jpg[/IMG]

[mypoppy31]

The one thing that sticks out in this photo is that the highlights is blown. When shooting midday, you have to chimp that histogram. :) It might be difficult to recover the blown out areas in photoshop.
What does "Chimp that histogram" mean, and what does it have to do with shooting in midday?
I do know that midday the sun should be directly above your head...

[argyle]

Today, the sun was out in full force!...so, I went to a lovely park in Larchmont which is so beautiful, that its like going into another world!.. and, this park is right on the water...

I've been there before, shooting with my Infrared filter. This time I decided to use a very new filter, the B+W 110.... I began shooting from many different positions and hoping for the best.

I'm attaching one of the very very few that came out just fair.. I did some post processing with iphoto editing, but it doesn't even get close to what Photoshop can do!..

I really don't have the heart to post the other photos.My shutter speed varied from 1 second to 30 seconds...I did find that with "Live View" enabled, that I could not focus well at all.
But, I did find that removing the filter each time to focus wasn't all that bad for me to do..

The big question is: Could Photoshop improve this photo?

Did you zoom in to 10x while in LV? This greatly helps your focusing...

What does "Chimp that histogram" mean, and what does it have to do with shooting in midday?
I do know that midday the sun should be directly above your head...

It means checking your histogram in between shots to ensure that you're not blowing out your shot. You need to read up on "exposing to the right"...meaning that you push your exposure as far to the right side of the histogram as you can without slamming up against the right side. By doing so, it will ensure that (1) you don't overexpose the highlights and (2) retain detail in your shadows. BTW...mid-day is pretty much the worst time for shooting (harsh light, harsh shadows, things look flat, etc).

Also, check your camera settings in your custom functions to ensure that your "highlight alert" has been activated (not sure what it would be called on your particular body, on the 5D2 its called highlight alert)...this will allow your camera to highlight and display your overexposed areas on your LCD (what we call 'blinkies'). When you see the blinkies, decrease your exposure until they no longer appear.

[mypoppy31]

To: Argyle....

I"ll check for "Highlight Alert" and also the histogram on my T1i. If its not there, I'll
try to figure what it might be..

Many thanks...

[argyle]

Not a problem. As far as focusing goes, do what works best for you. For me, I find that LV is the best when I'm using a very strong ND filter. If you prefer to screw on/screw off the filter, then do that if it works for you or if you're more comfortable with that approach.

I also have my focusing set to the star button on the rear of the camera. With the focus set here and not on the shutter button, the camera won't try to re-focus when I press the shutter to take the shot. This way, once I focus in LV, I can press the shutter and avoid the camera trying to hunt/reset the focus.

This is nothing spectacular, just another test shot taken from the same spot on the beach, at a little different angle. I wasn't that crazy about the time of day at the time, so I just did a bit of experimentation. Even though I used LV, you'll notice that the rocks are sharply focused. The haziness on the rocks was caused by the high surf falling on the rocks and running off throughout the exposure. Again, this was a 30-second exposure in bright daylight with 8-stops of ND plus a polarizer, with the white balance purposely kept towards the cool side. It takes patience...so don't despair, you'll get the hang of it:

http://www.northlakephotography.com/Photography/Kauai-2009/Kauai0713HDRweb/713955269_zbm5z-XL.jpg

[kauffman v36]

ive been so tempted lately to pick up this very same 10 stop filter. ive had so many occasions in the day where i think to myself "i wish i could do a loooong exposure right now"

mypoppy, you seem to be getting the hang of it but i think you dont fully understand the concept of "stops." i suggest you read up on them as it will make life sooo much easier. it is a way to connect ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed and it will benefit you in more ways than one.

[jasonleehl]

I'm still learning how to improve my shot making and is still far from many of those posted here. Here's mine - It's approximately 20s - 30s exposure on a sunny day. The image on the 1st page and the 12th page is the same.

Singapore Merlion Using 10 Stop ND Filter (http://jasonlee.smugmug.com/Photostory/Its-My-Singapore/8796921_GXykx)

[Newcastle Photographer]

This filter is my life since I bought one. A superb bit of kit. My fave time to use it is around sunset facing away as the extremes of light are less contrasty than facing sunrises.

You dont say what lens you use - if its a wide angle lens 77mm ring then its easier as at just about all apertures your shots will be in focus front to back - but yes, you will need to pre focus, then swith to manual to stop your lens hunting. To compose your shot - unfort its screw on screw off - Im gonna invent a magnetic version for ease. I use bulb - lowest iso - f/6--10 and carry a stop watch for exposure time.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_MKCda6Nx45M/SvwtcBAikiI/AAAAAAAAADE/oZsCLMe7O2Q/s1600/Charlies-Garden.jpg

I have a lot more on flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulsantos/)

[mypoppy31]

To: Argyle: Actually, yesterday all the photos I shot at the park were pretty ****ty and I quickly got depressed upon viewing them in my computer.. I seriously considered returning the filter, since I still had time..

So, today, I really forced myself to give it ONE MORE SHOT before I decided to return this freakin' filter back to B+W....

I did follow your instructions to a T!.......but, as I was freezing my ass off from the wind coming in from Long Island sound, and with your directions in one hand, and the other on the remote shutter release I was having trouble focusing while looking through the Live View window. I decided to move my coat Parka all the way up till it COVERED the camera!. and, you know what, that little maneuver allowed me to focus just FINE.
It appears that the coat eliminated some wierd REFLECTIONS that were interfering with my focusing.

So, ARGYLE....."Live view" and "focusing" do go together perfectly, as you had previously said, but I was having trouble comprehending until the "Coat" thing worked for my focusing...

Okay, so to tell you the truth, this time I'm pretty content with the results I got today.
I took about 30 some odd shots, trying to keep the sun at a 90 degree angle from my position. I kept only three that could possibly show some promise, and I'm attaching them below here..

Those three shots I did keep were shot with F/22 and for some strange reason that I can't figure out...F/9 ??? and the shutter speed was from 30 secs to 60 secs.

This time I didn't shoot at noon. I got to the park at about 10 am and the sun was'nt overhead which was good..

My next step is to learn how to use Photoshop Elements with my Apple iMac on photos taken with the B+W 110 filter.

Okay, Argyle, I dedicate 2 of the Three photos I took today to YOU!...
Thanks again.........

[timeasterday]

Those are pretty good! I think you are starting to get the hang of it.

[mypoppy31]

Thanks Tim.

As I said, I've just started doing this yesterday and I've a long way to go. Now, I've got to learn to apply Photoshop Elements to these kinds of photos and hope to get some decent results.

I saw your infrared red photos and I loved them!... I'm attaching a youtube slideshow of what I did a few months ago in a park nearby. Hope you enjoy it...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWJIvOHiWmY

[argyle]

To: Argyle: Actually, yesterday all the photos I shot at the park were pretty ****ty and I quickly got depressed upon viewing them in my computer.. I seriously considered returning the filter, since I still had time..

So, today, I really forced myself to give it ONE MORE SHOT before I decided to return this freakin' filter back to B+W....

I did follow your instructions to a T!.......but, as I was freezing my ass off from the wind coming in from Long Island sound, and with your directions in one hand, and the other on the remote shutter release I was having trouble focusing while looking through the Live View window. I decided to move my coat Parka all the way up till it COVERED the camera!. and, you know what, that little maneuver allowed me to focus just FINE.
It appears that the coat eliminated some wierd REFLECTIONS that were interfering with my focusing.

So, ARGYLE....."Live view" and "focusing" do go together perfectly, as you had previously said, but I was having trouble comprehending until the "Coat" thing worked for my focusing...

Okay, so to tell you the truth, this time I'm pretty content with the results I got today.
I took about 30 some odd shots, trying to keep the sun at a 90 degree angle from my position. I kept only three that could possibly show some promise, and I'm attaching them below here..

Those three shots I did keep were shot with F/22 and for some strange reason that I can't figure out...F/9 ??? and the shutter speed was from 30 secs to 60 secs.

This time I didn't shoot at noon. I got to the park at about 10 am and the sun was'nt overhead which was good..

My next step is to learn how to use Photoshop Elements with my Apple iMac on photos taken with the B+W 110 filter.

Okay, Argyle, I dedicate 2 of the Three photos I took today to YOU!...
Thanks again.........

Now those are much improved...especially the top image. Nice detail from front to back, exposure looks good too. Just one little blown area on the right side, about one-third of the way up. Just keep an eye on your histogram and watch out for the blinkies. Be glad that you didn't return the filter...you can do some really creative things with it. Just takes a little bit of practice...you'll have the hang of it in no time.

[jdizzle]

http://www.northlakephotography.com/Photography/Kauai-2009/Kauai0713HDRweb/713955269_zbm5z-XL.jpg

Love the effect with the SR Vari-N-Duo. :)

[jdizzle]

Those photos definitely look alot better than the one you posted before. As Argyle mentioned, there is a few blown highlights. Keep on chimpin!! :)

[amoergosum]

Here's a fantastic tutorial >>>

"The Ultimate Guide For Long Exposures":

Part1:
http://www.bwvision.com/photography-techniques/the-ultimate-filter-guide-for-your-long-exposures/

Part2:
http://www.bwvision.com/photography-techniques/the-ultimate-guide-for-long-exposures-part-2/

Part3:
http://www.bwvision.com/photography-techniques/the-ultimate-guide-for-long-exposures-part-3/

[amoergosum]

I just scored a B+W 6 stop and a B+W 10 stop ND filter for 80 euros. Can't wait to try them out...

[mypoppy31]

To Argyle: I am still pursuing the idiosyncrasies of this B+W 110 filter. I've just found out that my shutter speeds were incorrect. So, the few that did come out somewhat acceptable was just an accident on my part...I simply had no idea what I was doing, although I was trying hard.

So, upon further research on this amazing filter, I find that my shutter speeds were way way off..
And, to my amazement and delight, there is a "Shutter speed" chart that must be adhered to in order to achieve some sort of success with this filter. I'll attach the chart to this message.

BUT, in using this chart to calculate the proper shutter exposures, I see that many many who are following instructions for the proper use of this filter, still have to screw and unscrew the filter..

Here's where I need your expertise: Rather than doing the focus and then screwing the filter on to take the shot, why can't I FIRST, take a reading of the shot with a "Light Meter Reader". Does that make any sense?..That way, I can leave the filter on without always screwing it on and off. My Canon T1i (500D) has "LIVE VIEW" which does let me FOCUS manually, or automatically with the FILTER ON...

I hope I do get replies on this because not only would it help me out a great deal, but also many others who have the same problem.

Thanks, and Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkha to all!.....

[argyle]

A light meter is just something else to carry around, along with batteries. I still prefer setting the mode dial to "Manual" and using Live View at 10x magnification for focusing with a strong ND in place on the lens, then adjusting the shutter speed dial until the exposure meter that's displayed on the LCD is zeroed in the middle. Granted, this method only works best in good light and will work for shutter speeds of 30-seconds or less. For shutter speeds longer than 30-seconds, you'll need to be in "bulb" mode...a quick calculation will tell you that you will need to be in "bulb" mode when your metered shutter speed (without the filter) is at 1/30 or slower (10-stops from 1/30 is 32-seconds).

When longer shutter speeds will be needed (>30 seconds), simply meter the scene without the filter at your selected aperture and note the required shutter speed. Attach the filter, then back off the metered shutter speed by 10 full stops...for this, you'll need to set the shutter speed dial to bulb and hold the shutter open for the required length of time (use a remote switch for this and your wristwatch, or a timer switch, or the camera's time delay). I find it easier to use my watch and remote than to set dials and time delays.

You can carry a light meter, but you'll need one with spot metering and they can get expensive. Personally, I wouldn't carry one but that's up to you. Whatever makes you feel the most comfortable. Calculating 10-stops is rather easy...every doubling of the shutter speed is equivalent to one full stop. If your shutter speed dial is set at 1/3-stop for each click of the wheel, then turning 30 clicks will give you the 10-stops.

The above is based on the assumption that you already have your ISO speed set to the lowest value, and your aperture is locked in where you need it for the composition. If not, you can always adjust those as needed to reduce your exposure also.

Here's a rule-of-thumb, and all you'll need is your cell phone with a calculator function (no light meter, no charts, etc). Simply multiply your no-filter metered shutter speed by 1,024 to determine your needed shutter speed with the 10-stop ND in place. For example, say you meter without a filter at f/16 and 1/125. Multiply 1/125 by 1,024 and you'll get a shutter speed of 8.19 seconds. If you set your shutter speed dial to 1/125 and back off 30 clicks, you'll be at the same 8-seconds. Try this for various shutter speeds and you'll see that its extremely close to determining the needed shutter speed with the filter in place. I'll usually use this rule-of-thumb when the shutter speed will be longer than 30-seconds. Otherwise, I just back off the dial the needed number of clicks. Needless to say, you should be bracketing your shots either way.

[mypoppy31]

Argyle,

Your great response is worthy of academic excellent for this subject!..
And, I've also printed out your suggestion which I'll be referring to when
I'm preparing to take photos with the B+W 110 filter.

The advice that you and others have given me on this forum just goes to
prove that forums like this are indispensable to those of us who seek
help in order to improve on this wonderful digital camera medium!..

Thank you so much!...

[smashing.poot]

@ mypoppy31: While that chart is a great compilation. It works well in general for a case when the light isn't changing much. Eg: mid day light. However, when I am shooting in early morning and late evenings, it is far from accurate.

For instance, in the following case, I was shooting at f/11, the light without the 10 stop filter metered at 1/3s. Normally with a 10 stop filter, I would have to expose for about 300 seconds to get the exposure right. In this case, I deliberately exposed to 600 seconds, ie, one full stop more to get an accurate exposure.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2522/3821744443_c49ac16ceb_o.jpg

The motivation is simple;
1) when you are making an exposure in late evening light, light changes rapidly. The ambient light drops from 1/3 of a second to 1/2 of a second in 5 minutes. The extra stop of exposure will compensate for that.
2) By similar reasoning, if you are shooting in early morning light. In my opinion, underexpose the shot by 1 stop and you will still get a perfect shot. So, if the meter reads 1/10s, with the 10 stop filter you will have to expose for about 100s, but in reality 50 seconds will give you a perfect exposure in dawn light.

These are some things I have learned from experimentation while using the 10 stop magic filter. Hope this helps!

[mypoppy31]

I"m really trying so hard to get decent shots using my Lee Filter Starter Kit...

I understand that you must first meter the shot in order to choose which filter
and shutter speed you can use.

My filters are: ND 0.6 Grad Hard.
and a ProGlass ND 0.6 Standard.
I believe these are both 2 stop filters.

I also have a B+W 110 (3.0) 10 stop filter.

So, getting back to "What filter (stop) and which filter to use
My Canon T1i DSLR was set to Manual.. the aperture to f/8, ISO to 100.

My lens was a Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS lens. There was no filter put on the lens during metering.

This morning I went outside and took two (2) metering shots.
The first was of the SKY (background)....and that meter reading was f/8 at a 640 shutter speed
The second was of the ground (foreground) and that meter reading was f/8 at a shutter speed of 60.
So, the difference between these two readings was 580 shutter speed..

So, how would these readings tell me what filter to use? AND, what shutter speed to use?

I anxiously await your reply.

Thanks

[bohdank]

I picked up the 10 stop ND about 2 weeks ago... will have to wait till better weather but I have some ideas for some street scenes that will require a composite.

[argyle]

I"m really trying so hard to get decent shots using my Lee Filter Starter Kit...

I understand that you must first meter the shot in order to choose which filter
and shutter speed you can use.

My filters are: ND 0.6 Grad Hard.
and a ProGlass ND 0.6 Standard.
I believe these are both 2 stop filters.

I also have a B+W 110 (3.0) 10 stop filter.

So, getting back to "What filter (stop) and which filter to use
My Canon T1i DSLR was set to Manual.. the aperture to f/8, ISO to 100.

My lens was a Canon 17-55 f/2.8 IS lens. There was no filter put on the lens during metering.

This morning I went outside and took two (2) metering shots.
The first was of the SKY (background)....and that meter reading was f/8 at a 640 shutter speed
The second was of the ground (foreground) and that meter reading was f/8 at a shutter speed of 60.
So, the difference between these two readings was 580 shutter speed..

So, how would these readings tell me what filter to use? AND, what shutter speed to use?

I anxiously await your reply.

Thanks

Just calculate the difference in stops between your two metered speeds. Remember that cutting the light in half is equal to 1-stop. So, starting at 640 and going backwards, you have 320 (1-stop), 160 (2-stops), 80 (3-stops), 40 (4-stops), etc. Since your foreground metered at 60, you'd be looking at a 3-1/2 stop GND (since 60 falls between 80 and 40) for a completely balanced scene, and a shutter speed of 1/60 since that will properly expose your foreground. I like to keep my sky 1-stop or so brighter than the foreground for a more natural look (since the sky is always brighter than the foreground), so in this case I'd probably go with a 2 or 3-stop GND. Its as simple as that.

[Ian71]

a very informative thread thnaks guys for ahring the information...got mine GENUS Vari ND from 2 -8 stop for about two weeks now but never been tried....so busy with work at the office..