View Full Version : stands and grips for the lighting frame/panel

17th of November 2009 (Tue), 05:09
What is the best stand/grip combination for large lighting frame panels? Preferablly Manfrotto first, Avenger second because they have a local distributor here.

I plan on buying a Chimera 72"x72" panel. The problem is that Chimera does not provide the weight of the kit. My guess its anywhere from 5 to 10 LBS. If I use two Avenger D200 or D250 grip heads to hold the frame that's another 5 lbs the stands have to carry.

This is all a rough estimate, so given those figures what are the best stands for holding the frame? I know one concern is the stand pin design. Since the Avenger grips have a very deep socket not all stands have a long enough pin to accommodate them.

MR do little
17th of November 2009 (Tue), 05:57
Depends on where you gonna put it up :-)

Outdoors under windy conditions id like more robust stands like A420, but iv avtually put 2x2m Skylite panel on regular photoflex lightstands (with weights of course) doable but far from optimal.

Indoors you would be fine with "regular" stands imo.


17th of November 2009 (Tue), 11:09
Thank you for the feedback.

I will be using them mainly inside. I would have tried your suggestion with the regular stands but my stands have a stud design that will not work with the D200 grip head. So I have to buy a set of stands. Beside, using dedicated heavy duty stands makes for a more secure setup.

The stands that have caught my attention so far are the Manfrotto 007CSU, 110CSU and Avenger A0035CS. All in the 11' 3 meter range.




The one problem they all have in common is price; two of them make the cost of having a panel expensive.

MR do little
17th of November 2009 (Tue), 11:45
What kind of stands do you have? The D200 has indeed a very deep socket to accommodate the 5/8" stud used on heavy duty stands. But unless you have a extremely short studs, it should work since you have two positions where you can insert the "knob"

If you can swing it, of course buying quality stands like the ones you have linked (either of them will do) to is prefered regardless.

Only thing i would consider is footprint if you gonna use them alot indoors and where space might be a issue.

And of course the downside with that route is that you need two, wich means a lighter wallet. :-)

17th of November 2009 (Tue), 14:12
... I would have tried your suggestion with the regular stands but my stands have a stud design that will not work with the D200 grip head.

Not so fast, Abdul. The D200 grip head will work with standard studs. The locking knob on the D200 can be inserted into either of two threaded holes on the grip head. In its standard position, it's set up for the long pins on Avenger and other pro stands. However, with the locking knob moved to the other provided hole, it can be secured on standard type studs.

This is the business end of one of my Giottos LC325 stands:


Here's a D200 grip head with the locking knob in the alternate threaded hole mounted on the Giottos stand:


This is a pretty secure arrangement but, of course, the short standard stud doesn't fill the entire mounting hole on the D200.

The removable top stud is a *very* nice feature of the Giottos (and some other) stands. For one thing, it allows us to address your issue very elegantly. The standard stud can be replaced with an Avenger E250 Long Double Stud (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124750-REG/Avenger_E250_E250_Long_Double_Stud.html):


With the E250 in place, a D200 can seat fully in either of two positions. Like so:


or, like so:


The Avenger "Ranker" stand has a removable top stud, substantial load capacity, and reasonable price (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/462684-REG/Avenger_A005MT_Ranker_Zinc_Stand_.html#specificati ons) so a pair of those plus a pair of E250 studs might be a reasonable solution for you.

Dave F.

18th of November 2009 (Wed), 13:02
Thanks for the detailed feedback Dave.

I have two sets of light stands, the ones that came with elinchrom kit, which are awesome but too light duty to handle anything beyond 8LBS and 13" stands that I bought used back when I was in Chicago. Those would work in the way you suggest except that the stud is not built into the stands, its more like a cap held into the stand tube by a screw. When I used one of those stands in combination with the D200 at an angle the stud cap flexed as if it was going to come off. I really have no option but to buy a set of stands.

I am glad you pointed out the E250 and Ranker stand option because I had seen that stand and loved its specs and price combination, but excluded it because of its stud. Now that I know I can mix and match the stud to my needs it's back to my list and I am checking its price with the local distributor as we speak.

20th of November 2009 (Fri), 05:39
I am sad to report that my local distributor informed me that Avenger has discontinued the Ranker stand and replaced it with the A0035CS. For those thinking about buying that stand go for it while B&H still has stock. The closest stand to it is the Manfrotto 1005 stand, but that is no where as strong as the discontinued Avenger.

That means I will most likely go with the 007CSU. Given that there is an aluminum version of that stand (007BU) that weights half, but offer only a little over half the maximum carrying capacity of the steel stand (20Kg vs 12Kg), I wonder if it would be better to go with it?

My question to folks who found them selves in the same dilemma is which did you find more important, mobility or higher maximum capacity and stability. I plan to transport my two stands in On-Stage padded case, and most wonder if carrying that bag loaded with two stands weighing 15Kg (32Lbs) is going to be a problem. Or if I have to travel by plane and take that bag with me it will cost much less to transport 7Kgs vs 15Kgs. On the other hand they are a pleasure to work with because they can carry allot more weight and are much more stable requiring no sand bags.

Your experiences and thoughts are much appreciated and please don't tell me "I know my needs best". I know that but I am trying to understand what other people faced with the same situation decided.

Thanks in advance.

TMR Design
20th of November 2009 (Fri), 11:42
Hi Abdul,

It looks like you've gotten some good information from others and unfortunately I don't think I can really add anything here.

I wouldn't worry all that much about the load on the stands because for this application all the weight is right over the center of gravity. It's not like you're suspending strobes or modifiers off the end of a boom. If you're working alone and need to keep things simple and light then a lighter stand will work but I wouldn't use them without weights or sandbags, so the question becomes "would you rather have sturdier and heavier light stands that may prove to be more flexible in the long run or do you want to use lighter stands that will undoubtedly require additional weight at the base for proper stabilization?".

20th of November 2009 (Fri), 22:26
Thanks for the feedback

If I was going to use those stands exclusively in my studio I would definitely go with chrome steel, they are very stable and look very nice. Having used the shorter 008CSU for my D600 boom I was pleasantly surprised to find the stand stable enough without any sandbags. I guess between having to travel with heavier stands or with lighter stands plus sandbags I would take the first rout.

Thanks for all the feedback