Framing

[KevC]

Wow. This is way more expensive that I thought.

I'm checking out PictureFrames.com and I'm spending at least $20 a frame.

I dunno anything about framing...

Mat or w/o mat?
Clear or Non-Glare acrylic?
Corrugated or Foamcore backing?

Seems like it's cheaper buying frames one by one locally. Hm...

[BrandonSi]

Wow. This is way more expensive that I thought.

I'm checking out PictureFrames.com and I'm spending at least $20 a frame.

I dunno anything about framing...

Mat or w/o mat?
Clear or Non-Glare acrylic?
Corrugated or Foamcore backing?

Seems like it's cheaper buying frames one by one locally. Hm...

I've been doing a lot of research into it myself.. I went with a full 16x24 print, even though the photo is only 12x18, added a simple border and a decent "brandon harris photography" logo like you'd see with gallery prints. The mat would've cost me $9, and the extra price for 16x24 vs 12x18 print at mpix was only ~$7 more. I think i'm going to look into 1/8" plexi at home depot and see how that works.. not sure about the backing right now, drymounting to foam core runs about $18 for that size around here. I might just go corrugated with some masking tape folded to be double sided on each corner and in the center.

[slin100]

I'm just getting started on this, too, and I'm just a little bit ahead of where you are. The first question you gotta answer is are you planning for archival-quality framing? Your answer will, in large part, determine the quality of the materials you use. Archival-quality framing dictates the use of acid-free materials for maximum longevity. The acids in many boards can leach and cause yellowing over time. But if what you are framing is not priceless (with digital images they seldom are), ultimate archival quality may not be necessary. Board manufacturers usually offer 2 or 3 grades ranging from museum-quality to standard. The standard board may not be purely acid-free, but will often last many years.

In general, photographs should be framed with a surrounding mat. It just looks better because it sets the photograph apart from its surroundings. There are plenty of books on framing and matting that have guidelines on mat sizes.

The choice of glaze (fancy term for glass or acrylic covers) is dependent on the environment. Direct sunlight or glarish surroundings call for UV-resistant, non-glare glaze. But subdued environments might only need clear arcylic.

Corrugated backing (aka cardboard) is never recommended. They are highly acidic. Go with, at least, foamcore. They are not necessarily acid-free but the mounting surface usually is.

Dry mounting is usually not recommended for archival mounting since it's permanent. Archival mounting often uses some form of hinge mounting with acid-free tape.

[KHill]

A questions for slin100, since you've looked into it - if you dry mount on museum grade board is that acceptable? Also, can the inks take that kind of heat?