Too much brightness on cars

[kbreit]

When photographing cars in sunlight, I am getting a ton of washout on the hoods or tops of cars, namely on white paint. What can I do to make this better? Also, would a filter help? If so, what type?

Thanks,
Kevin

[PhotosGuy]

Shooting RAW & post processing will help, & so will getting the right exposure in the first place. Take a look in here:
Photography Tips and Tutorials List (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=52418)
&
A few Car Lighting Tips (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=70290)
&
Contrast Control Tutorial (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39702)

[rabidcow]

A high f-stop will help out as this decreases the amount of light entering the lens. Of course, this will require a longer exposure time, but if you are shooting on a sunny day that will not present a problem. As for filters, spend your money on a good circular polarizer filter, this will reduce glare quite a bit

[kbreit]

Can anyone recommend a good circular polarizer filter?

[MTalley]

About any brand will do. Generally, the higher the price, the better the quality of the filter. I'm generally pretty pleased with the Sunpak filters I have, but I don't have expensive lenses. If I did, I'd probably have a little more expensive filters for them.

I've generally found Sunpak CP's on Ebay anywhere between $12 and $20 on Ebay.

[Mernya]

In a pinch, use polarized sun glasses.

[PhotosGuy]

Seen this?
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=81164
They were shot about 6PM. Not as late as I usually do, but I had to leave early.

[12345Michael54321]

A high f-stop will help out as this decreases the amount of light entering the lens. Of course, this will require a longer exposure time
Perhaps I'm missing something, but if the lens is closed down "x" number of stops so that a "high" f-stop may be used, and the shutter speed is then adjusted by an equal number of stops (in order to maintain proper exposure), isn't the total amount of light the same as it was originally? So how does this decrease the amount of light entering the lens, or change the brightness in any way?

[PhotosGuy]

:D You're right. It will decrease the amount of light entering the lens and get you greater depth of field (sharpness), but the bright parts will still be relativly bright.

[rabidcow]

As PhotosGuy said, the bright spots will still be relatively bright, however the way that the lens bends the total incoming light is different depending on your chosen f-stop. Aperture size changes the depth of field, as we all know, but it also changes the way that colors and light intensity are perceived by the CMOS or film.

We had a big argument about this in my University Physics 2 course, it turns out that the prof was right.....as usual. Take a shot with the aperture wide open, then take the exact same shot with it as small as it can go (changing exposure as needed), the color will be different, as will the contrast and brightness.

I'm not trying to sound like a know-it-all, so I'm sorry if it comes across that way.

[rabidcow]

Here's an example. These (bad) pictures of baby bald eagles (at Fort Donelson, TN) were taken about 12 seconds apart on a tripod. The wind was blowing the tree tops a bit, so they don't look perfectly aligned, but you get the idea.

The first was taken at 1/40 sec, f/22, ISO 100, Sigma 55-200 @ 200.

http://www.3dfightclub.com/~sgt2187/uploads/CRW_1549.jpg


The second was taken at 1/400, f/6.3, ISO 100, Sigma 55-200 @ 200.

http://www.3dfightclub.com/~sgt2187/uploads/CRW_1550.jpg

[PhotosGuy]

It's true that a very small f-stop will result in some degradation from diffraction, more with cheap lenses, but there are a few problems with your example.
1. The exposures aren't the same. You're 1/3 stop off.
2. Are you sure that nothing was moving in the pic shot at 1/40 sec?

I'm sure that, whatever obscure property of light your prof was illustrating, Canon has heard of it, too, & compensated for it to the point that we don't have to worry about it. So, I won't. ;-)
I'll leave the rest up to the "measurebaters" out there. I'm sure that they'll have something to say.

[rabidcow]

Yes, 1/3 of a stop off, I trusted my lightmeter for the shot...thats what I get, an over-exposure. Anyway, it's just an example, and I did not intend for it to be the example when I shot it. The point I'm making is color and contrast difference. Smaller aperture=longer exposure, therefore less contrast and more color intensity. Give it a shot, you will see a difference.

Anyway, I'm not trying to start an argument, we all have our techniques and our own reasons for using them. This is just my reason for my posted suggestion, nothing more.

To answer your question, the wind was blowing quite a bit that day, the trees were swaying too much for a 1/40 exposure, and at that focal length, the movement is very obvious. :)

[JakeC]

-0.3ev or shoot RAW... best way to control bright spots on white anything. If the shot can be set-up/staged then just shoot in a more subtle light, or if they're reflective highlights go with the polarizer.

If you can't overcome them, stop right down or use a star filter. You can be a little creative, including them as spectular highlights then