Cold weather e-shoot tips?

[Michelle Brooks Photography]

In about a week and a half I have my first E shoot (where's the nail biting emoticon when you need it?!); the couple just let me know today they want me (yay!). I would love to hear some suggestions for cold weather shoots. We'll be shooting in a great downtown area that has nice wide river falls going through it. I'm just concerned that they'll look like a couple of bundled up snowpeople...
On another note--I've had limited experience using my fairly new 580EXII and am worried about not getting enough fill light on the faces...I have a DIY diffuser (which I've practiced with indoors and can get some decent exposures), but I was wondering if an off camera bracket makes a huge difference? I also have a smallish (maybe 36") set of reflectors and my hubs is coming along to help by holding one for me. The shoot will be around 3pm, and I'm thinking the girl will want some shots in the city, and I'm concerned with there being little light b/c of bldgs...I'm hoping to go to the area before the shoot and wander around to look with an eye towards picking spots....any tips here? Thanks!

[Peacefield]

I would be less worried about them looking like bundled up snowmen and more worried about them being cold. Hopefully, their outerwear is fun looking, but what you really want is to make sure they're comfortable so their faces express affection for one another instead of expressing, gee, it's cold and I wish our photographer would hurry up. Use the cold as an element; tight shots of the couple huddled together, etc.

I and many others here will tell you to scrap the idea of a bracket. What brackets do best is make your gear heavy and cumbersome. I also have one of those large homemade diffusers and like them, but don't think I would bother with it for an outdoor shoot. Are you looking to use flash to lift shadows from harsh sun. At 3:00 this time of year, depending on where you are in the time zone, the sun should be starting to come down in which case, use the sunlight as an element of warmth in your shots; have the couple look in the direction of the sunlight (as long as it doesn't cause squinting) while you shoot them from an angle. If you're in the shadow of large buildings, there's no need for fill flash. If you want to add some flash to pop the couple out of the scene a little, I think it's important to get the flash off camera. That can be done fairly easiliy and inexpensively with a long ETTL cable from Flashzebra and a stand.

[Michelle Brooks Photography]

I would be less worried about them looking like bundled up snowmen and more worried about them being cold. Hopefully, their outerwear is fun looking, but what you really want is to make sure they're comfortable so their faces express affection for one another instead of expressing, gee, it's cold and I wish our photographer would hurry up. Use the cold as an element; tight shots of the couple huddled together, etc.

I and many others here will tell you to scrap the idea of a bracket. What brackets do best is make your gear heavy and cumbersome. I also have one of those large homemade diffusers and like them, but don't think I would bother with it for an outdoor shoot. Are you looking to use flash to lift shadows from harsh sun. At 3:00 this time of year, depending on where you are in the time zone, the sun should be starting to come down in which case, use the sunlight as an element of warmth in your shots; have the couple look in the direction of the sunlight (as long as it doesn't cause squinting) while you shoot them from an angle. If you're in the shadow of large buildings, there's no need for fill flash. If you want to add some flash to pop the couple out of the scene a little, I think it's important to get the flash off camera. That can be done fairly easiliy and inexpensively with a long ETTL cable from Flashzebra and a stand.

Awesome reply, thank you so much! I'll have a little pre-session talk with them about making sure they are well insulated.

Yes, I am concerned about both the issues you brought up-- shadowed faces from the sun and/or having them blend into a shadowy doorway/bldg shadow/etc. I appreciate the tip on the bracket---I had been getting the feeling that what I want would be better accomplished getting the flash totally OC rather than just inched away by a bracket...I have a stand for my circular reflectors (tho to be honest I have not used it yet); wonder if I could somehow use it instead of having to buy another stand? So, then, if I put my flash on a stand, do I need some kind of diffusion, like a soft box or umbrella?

[Peacefield]

Refelctors are VERY hard to use outdoors. For one things, reflector stands really don't do a great job of job holding them in place. Secondly, wind wants to take them down or twist them. Finally, when I'm using a reflector outdoors, it's usually to place it face up at stomach height to lift shadows under the chin and eyes; can't really get a stand to do this. To use a reflector effectively, you really need an assistant.

Going OC with a flash isn't difficult as long as you understand metering separately for flash and ambient. Or even easier if you can use ETTL and understand what the EC and FEC settings do for you. If I just want a little light on my subjects to make them pop out of an otherwise dull/dark background, I'll use one OC 580 with a small white shoot-through umbrella, connected to the camera via a long ETTL chord. I keep ambient 1 - 1.5 stops dark and then let ETTL do its thing with the flash through umbrella off at whatever angle I need for the shot. My ETTL chord is 24' long and I think it was ~$75 from FlashZebra. I use it all the time. Bought a small 22" wihte shoot through used off of eBay about a year ago for like $12. But if you're going to use an umbrella outdoors, you probably still want an assistant so a strong wind doesn't take your flash down to the pavement.

[Michelle Brooks Photography]

Refelctors are VERY hard to use outdoors. For one things, reflector stands really don't do a great job of job holding them in place. Secondly, wind wants to take them down or twist them. Finally, when I'm using a reflector outdoors, it's usually to place it face up at stomach height to lift shadows under the chin and eyes; can't really get a stand to do this. To use a reflector effectively, you really need an assistant.

Going OC with a flash isn't difficult as long as you understand metering separately for flash and ambient. Or even easier if you can use ETTL and understand what the EC and FEC settings do for you. If I just want a little light on my subjects to make them pop out of an otherwise dull/dark background, I'll use one OC 580 with a small white shoot-through umbrella, connected to the camera via a long ETTL chord. I keep ambient 1 - 1.5 stops dark and then let ETTL do its thing with the flash through umbrella off at whatever angle I need for the shot. My ETTL chord is 24' long and I think it was ~$75 from FlashZebra. I use it all the time. Bought a small 22" wihte shoot through used off of eBay about a year ago for like $12. But if you're going to use an umbrella outdoors, you probably still want an assistant so a strong wind doesn't take your flash down to the pavement.

Ok, what if I don't understand metering for flash and ambient? Do you know of a good source that explains it? What is considered a small umbrella?

[Joelene]

The advice given is great, but if you don't know how to use it, use what you do know. If you know how to use your reflector then do it! Cold weather doesn't change how to use your equipment. Shoot on a cold day the same way you would on a warm day. .Don't learn "on the job" if you dont' know how to do something, nothing wrong with giving it a shot while in the session, but don't spend the practice time on your clients.

Find the light in between the buildings. Holiday lights, street lights, patio lights, all those wonderful lights you find in the downtown areas. Heck, use your car headlights! I have ;)

have fun, i cannot wait to see some of the shots ;)
if you don't want the bundled up snowy ppl look, follow the advice of avoiding darker areas. keep them in wider more open spaces, like by the river. In the middle of the streets, sidewalks with nothing directly behind them. If it is darker outside, use your flash , bump your ISO, use your reflector.
Cold day advice I have is keep your spare batteries in your pants pocket, or even your bra!! I keep flash batteries in my pocket and camera ones close to my heart ;) Keeping them warm will help them last. Oh and don't use a bracket, you will regret it.

[Michelle Brooks Photography]

The advice given is great, but if you don't know how to use it, use what you do know. If you know how to use your reflector then do it! Cold weather doesn't change how to use your equipment. Shoot on a cold day the same way you would on a warm day. .Don't learn "on the job" if you dont' know how to do something, nothing wrong with giving it a shot while in the session, but don't spend the practice time on your clients.

Find the light in between the buildings. Holiday lights, street lights, patio lights, all those wonderful lights you find in the downtown areas. Heck, use your car headlights! I have ;)

have fun, i cannot wait to see some of the shots ;)
if you don't want the bundled up snowy ppl look, follow the advice of avoiding darker areas. keep them in wider more open spaces, like by the river. In the middle of the streets, sidewalks with nothing directly behind them. If it is darker outside, use your flash , bump your ISO, use your reflector.
Cold day advice I have is keep your spare batteries in your pants pocket, or even your bra!! I keep flash batteries in my pocket and camera ones close to my heart ;) Keeping them warm will help them last. Oh and don't use a bracket, you will regret it.

Appreciate it, Jolene! (I hear Dolly Parton singing in my head when I type your name! :D) Especially appreciate the battery storage tip!

[Peacefield]

Joelene's right on; I forgot to mention the spare batteries. And I like her suggestion about using lights that are already around.

Here's the short version of how to meter and manage flash as I was describing. You need to shoot in M. Meter for the ambient light and come up with a setting (ISO, aperature, shutter) that will work for you. Ideally, you'll be able to keep your shutter speed below the flash's sync which I think is 1/250 or so. Then adust one of your settings so that you underexpose the ambient light by 1 - 1.5 stops; the meter in the view finder will guide you. Now, the flash using ETTL ained at the subject will throw enough light at the couple to properly expose them but leave the surrounding enviromnemt a bit darker giving the couple some prominence in the image.

As Joelene indicates, don't experiment on a client. That said, you have enough time to try, practice and learn. My small umbrella is 22". That size is uncommonly small; 36" is a more common size but obviously less portable. David Ziser sells a folding 36" shoot through that's pretty good for ~$35. Remember, though, you'll need a stand, and not just an adapter that can hold your flash on the stand but one that can also accept an umbrella. These are commonly available everywhere including eBay for ~$15. And, of course, you need an ETTL chord. If you have to forgo the umbrella, off-camera-flash shot direct w/o an umbrella is still miles better than on camera.

[Michelle Brooks Photography]

Joelene's right on; I forgot to mention the spare batteries. And I like her suggestion about using lights that are already around.

Here's the short version of how to meter and manage flash as I was describing. You need to shoot in M. Meter for the ambient light and come up with a setting (ISO, aperature, shutter) that will work for you. Ideally, you'll be able to keep your shutter speed below the flash's sync which I think is 1/250 or so. Then adust one of your settings so that you underexpose the ambient light by 1 - 1.5 stops; the meter in the view finder will guide you. Now, the flash using ETTL ained at the subject will throw enough light at the couple to properly expose them but leave the surrounding enviromnemt a bit darker giving the couple some prominence in the image.

As Joelene indicates, don't experiment on a client. That said, you have enough time to try, practice and learn. My small umbrella is 22". That size is uncommonly small; 36" is a more common size but obviously less portable. David Ziser sells a folding 36" shoot through that's pretty good for ~$35. Remember, though, you'll need a stand, and not just an adapter that can hold your flash on the stand but one that can also accept an umbrella. These are commonly available everywhere including eBay for ~$15. And, of course, you need an ETTL chord. If you have to forgo the umbrella, off-camera-flash shot direct w/o an umbrella is still miles better than on camera.

Ok two questions (no, I never run out, it seems!):
When you say meter for ambient light-- meaning to choose what I'm metering off of (the cheek, wall, sky, etc) and get the correct settings on that, right? Then, whatever those settings are (let's say f/8, ISO 100, 1/60) change either the aperture or shutter speed to get the meter to read -1 to -1.5? Sorry if any of that makes you go, "What the--?!"

Second--are there any differences (other than shape, ha ha) in using an umbrella as opposed to a softbox? Is one easier? Does one give a certain effect the other doesn't?

Grasshopper is grateful...

[Viffer06]

Ok two questions (no, I never run out, it seems!):
When you say meter for ambient light-- meaning to choose what I'm metering off of (the cheek, wall, sky, etc) and get the correct settings on that, right? Then, whatever those settings are (let's say f/8, ISO 100, 1/60) change either the aperture or shutter speed to get the meter to read -1 to -1.5? Sorry if any of that makes you go, "What the--?!"

Second--are there any differences (other than shape, ha ha) in using an umbrella as opposed to a softbox? Is one easier? Does one give a certain effect the other doesn't?

Grasshopper is grateful...


Keep it simple. Do this is Manual setting.

1. Measure the ambient light using shutter speed. What shutter should I start using? Try your maximum sync speed (often 1/250th). Shoot with this speed. Do you get enough ambient light? Note: NO FLASH YET.... If it's dark, slow down your shutter (1/125th). IF this is good.. follow #2.


2. With flash set on Manual, start with aperture f5.6. Like Zack (one light DVD) would say, "you have to start somewhere"). Shoot the subject. Is the flash too bright or too low? If too bright, adjust aperture to f8. If too low, adjust to f4.0.

Use the technique above until you get your proper exposure.

Not to bore you with technical stuff, If your flash is attach to your hotshoe, YOU MUST BE AWARE of your FLASH TO SUBJECT DISTANCE.

[Peacefield]

Ok two questions (no, I never run out, it seems!):
When you say meter for ambient light-- meaning to choose what I'm metering off of (the cheek, wall, sky, etc) and get the correct settings on that, right? Then, whatever those settings are (let's say f/8, ISO 100, 1/60) change either the aperture or shutter speed to get the meter to read -1 to -1.5? Sorry if any of that makes you go, "What the--?!"

Second--are there any differences (other than shape, ha ha) in using an umbrella as opposed to a softbox? Is one easier? Does one give a certain effect the other doesn't?

Grasshopper is grateful...

Yes, you have it all correctly. Meter for the background; if it's a street scene with a storefront in the background, meter for that. Be careful about letting elements like the sky or a street light throw off your metering. You want to meter off of whatever you want just a little darker. Just be sure you keep your shutter to 1/250 or below, otherwise it's a matter of HSS which is a whole other topic.

I prefer umbrellas to softboxes. From a performance perspective, a good softbox is prefered as it let's you better control the flow and direction of your light. I use a softbox for in-studio portraiture so that I can limit how much light spills onto the background. I don't use a softbox on location, however, for a couple of reasons. One is that light spillage just isn't an issue. Your subject will probably not be THAT close to the background elements and your flash is only firing at about one stop above the ambient metering anyway. That and I find softboxes obnoxious to set up (at least mine is a real pain) and they can be heavier making the whole set up a little more precarious. I use umbrellas often while shooting weddings as I need to be fast and portable all day. I work with an assistant who helps me with my lighting and it's nothing for him to open an umbrella, stick it in the opening, and fire. So just a little less control, I doubt you'd miss that control, and much easier to set up and work with.

[Michelle Brooks Photography]

Not to bore you with technical stuff, If your flash is attach to your hotshoe, YOU MUST BE AWARE of your FLASH TO SUBJECT DISTANCE.

What am I determining by this? I know that's a broad question, I guess I'm asking what is the PRIMARY thing to look at or consider and why?

[Michelle Brooks Photography]

I'm reading about Brollys; can these be used with my 580EXII? They seem like a nice combo of umbrella/soft box....