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mrshy333
8th of January 2010 (Fri), 02:58
So I am new to the SLR world and still trying to understand how to set settings on my camera to be able to take the best/clear picture. How low should you set the ISO before its too low (or if there is even such a thing). pretty much, im looking for setting tips for manual shots.

all your input is highly appreciated.

SOK
8th of January 2010 (Fri), 03:55
Hi,

Based on your thread title and question, it sounds like you need to cover some of the basics;

I recommend having a read of Ben's Newbie Guide (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=414088)

If you want a run down on what the numbers all mean, have a read of this site (http://www.uscoles.com/fstop.htm).

If you're truly interested in ISO and noise have a read of the HAMSTTR thread (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=744235)...just be aware it's intended for those who've mastered the fundamentals and even then it's not for the faint hearted!

Happy reading and good luck!

bkburns
13th of January 2010 (Wed), 12:04
Short answer: As for ISO, you generally go with the lowest you can to keep your shutter and aperture/fstop where you want to creatively. I start at 100 and only go up when I have to. As for what level starts to cause noise, tat depends a lot on the camera and your other settings.

To understand ISO properly, you need to understand the exposure triangle: ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. They are mathematically related.and changing any one has an impact on the others.

I (as will many many other on this form) can recommend the book Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson to help understand how ISO works as well as the whole triangle.

philwillmedia
13th of January 2010 (Wed), 16:46
How low should you set the ISO before its too low

Put simply, when you've got your aperture open as much as you can and your shutter speed is as slow as you can go without your images being blurry from camera shake/movement and your shot is still underexposed, then your ISO is too low.

As those above have said, you need an understanding of the exposure triangle.

ryant35
14th of January 2010 (Thu), 00:23
It also depends on what camera body you are using to determine what it's high iso noise level is.

ExampleL The 50D has a whole lot less noise at iso 2000 than the 40D at iso1250.

RFRynkowski
14th of January 2010 (Thu), 01:11
Hi MRSHY 333;
Best ISO for least noise? Noise is caused by several things. Primarily, you will get more noise with the smaller sensor cameras. Next, you'll get more noise at higher ISOs.
Your best way to test to find your best ISO for the least amount of noise is to set your camera ISO to the lowest setting, such as ISO-64, and begin making test shots. Photograph the Clear blue North sky and include a couple of clouds, but not too many. With each shot increase your ISO until you get to the maximum setting. Of course each exposure should be a proper one with the correct f-stop and shutter speed. Be sure to mount your camera on a tripod also, try to make your shutter speed, the biggest variable, while maintaining an f-stop at F8, F5.6 or F4.0. aperture openings smaller than F8 .0 will introduce aperture blade flare and increase noise.
Now that you have your test shots, down-load them on to your computer. Examine each image at greater than 1:1 but less than where you see pixels. The noise in the dark blue sky areas will look like "grain"if you are familiar with film images. If not, then it starts looking "sandy." That sand is noise. Compare your images and decide at which ISO you get the lowest amount of grain or noise. It is likely to be ISO 100 or 200.
Good luck, and happy shooting.
Richard.
http://www.AdobePhoto.net

PS The reason smaller sensors have more noise is because the pixels are much smaller, and you cannot get as many photons into each pixel. So, the bigger the sensor the larger the pixels, the more photons get in each pixel, the less noise.
Why do higher ISOs cause more noise? Higher ISOs are signal amplifications and the more amplification you get the more garbage you get. Think of it as a cheap radio. The more you turn up the volume, the more scratchy and distorted the sound gets. The same thing happens with higher ISOs.

RFRynkowski
14th of January 2010 (Thu), 01:39
Hi Again Mrshy 333;
just one more thing. Lens aperture can also affect the sharpness of your image, regardless of the point of focus. From the test charts that I have seen F8.0 appears to be the smallest aperture to get the sharpest images. Apertures smaller than F8.0 will introduce aperture blade flare. Depending on the quality of your lens glass, apertures greater than F5 .6 will start to lose sharpness especially near the edges.
Prime lenses of a fixed focal length give you the sharpest images. Zoom lenses will be less sharp than prime lenses, because the manufacturer has to make trade-offs and can't give excellent sharpness across the entire zoom range. Most zoom lenses will give you your sharpest image mid- zoom.
If you don't mind carrying several lenses. I suggest you buy 3 to 4 fixed focal length lenses. If you need to get in closer walk a little closer to your subject. Back in the 60s, It was not uncommon for a photographer to carry four or five lenses in his camera bag.
Last point...when considering a purchase of camera equipment select the equipment with the fewest amount of features that you need at the lowest price; invest your greatest dollars in lenses of the highest quality. Also, select a major brand camera like Canon and stick with it. purchase that manufacturers best lenses, and don't buy off brand-name lenses. Here's why. Some years back. I purchased a Sigma fixed focal length auto-focus 400 mm Canon mount lens for my Canon A2 35mm film camera. I also purchased a 100 mm macro lens from the same manufacturer. Both lenses were their TOP of the line and gave excellent results. After I purchased my Digital Canon EOS 5D, I found that the Sigma lenses would not work properly on the digital body. But, all of my EF lenses from Canon work fine. Even after I telephoned Sigma and talked to their tech reps, and bosses up the line, they advised they could not make the lenses work as they were unable to change out the electronics to be compatible with a Canon EOS digital camera. Who would have thought that if they worked on my film camera they wouldn't work on the digital camera as well. An Expensive lesson!

Happy Shooting
Richard
http://www.AdobePhoto.net