Zaza Camera Slider

[eisurf]

Just doing some research on sliders and found this. Looks to be an awesome DIY slider for smooth video work. Relatively cheap as well considering most other sliders I've seen are over a grand. Thought I would share it with you and see if anyone had experience with it. Will be ordering soon.

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=145701

[Trey T]

i recommend the smaller-width rail and ask them to cut to about 2.5'.

I use the wider one at about 3' and it's just overkilled for DSLR

[basroil]

These rails are quite overkill, generally something that size will support 100-200lb without issue. To reduce costs even more, you can always just get the glide blocks and then build the shuttle yourself (66-76 bucks instead of 96)

[Trey T]

not sure if it will slide properly w/ 100-220lb but I provided a calculation for the maximum deflection for different span and size on that thread.

[basroil]

not sure if it will slide properly w/ 100-220lb but I provided a calculation for the maximum deflection for different span and size on that thread.

Meant if you put it on the ground. McMaster-Carr versions of that setup are rated for about 250-500lb for extrusions that size. I assume that the glide block is a bit weaker in this version.

[Trey T]

the weight is a concern but if you have too much weight on those "plastic-type bearing"(forgot the proper name) the friction is increased and the travel rate is decreased. the loading capacity is different from how it can travel, respect to the type of bearings. w/ ball-bearing you can have a much higher load than those "plastic-type bearing" and the travel rate isn't affected much, due to minimal surface contacts by the balls.

[eisurf]

so you think this version may be overkill? I don't mind spending an extra $50-$60 if it will properly hold my camera at the far ends without bending. Though saving $50-60 is nice too if that smaller version will work just as well.

[Trey T]

don't purchase that one. there's another model w/ narrower track, smaller profile.

I use the one shown on that first page of the linked-thread and it's just too big and long.

[eisurf]

do you know the name of the smaller one?

[Trey T]

theres no name for it. it's not called a zazaslider, although ppl will start to call that on this forum, it's just a slider system developed by IGUS that just happens to be used for filming making.

Here's what you should order. just call them up and pretty much tell them that you're part of the filming/video-making community and you want to order a slider system. so yeah, they know a bunch of ppl have been ordering these parts lately.

the parts are:
double rail- WS-10-40 at 760mm long
Assembled carriage- WW-10-40-10*

dictation for the numbers in WS: 10mm-diameter rail w/ 40mm spacing(center to center) at 760mm(2.5feet) span
dictation for the numbers in WW: 10mm-diameter bearing w/ 40mm spacing(center to center) at 100mm(~0.5ft) length. note that is says 10* but it's denote for 100mm. I picked 10*(or 100mm) is because it will yield a maximum distance for sliding.

page 12-13
http://www.igus.com/pdf/drylinw.pdf

[eisurf]

awesome! Thanks for the info!

[basroil]

theres no name for it. it's not called a zazaslider, although ppl will start to call that on this forum, it's just a slider system developed by IGUS that just happens to be used for filming making.

Here's what you should order. just call them up and pretty much tell them that you're part of the filming/video-making community and you want to order a slider system. so yeah, they know a bunch of ppl have been ordering these parts lately.

the parts are:
double rail- WS-10-40 at 800mm long
Assembled carriage- WW-10-40-10

dictation for the numbers in WS: 10mm-diameter rail w/ 40mm spacing(center to center) at 800mm(2.5feet) span
dictation for the numbers in WW: 10mm-diameter bearing w/ 40mm spacing(center to center) at 100mm(~0.5ft) length. note that is says 10 but it's denote for 100mm. I picked 10(or 100mm) is because it will yield a maximum distance for sliding.

page 12-13
http://www.igus.com/pdf/drylinw.pdf

10mm is the rail size rather than length. And as you can see... way overkill (270lb+, you could ride on top of it)

[kalieaire]

Anybody ever check out the Pocket Dolly by Kessler Crane? it's in the 500 range, and it's not bad.

[Trey T]

Basroil, there are two number 10's on the assembled carriage, and the second number 10 is denote for 100mm, the length of the carriage. I put an asterisk to differentiate.

If you want to discuss about engineering specs, I encourage you to PM me. Let's not get side-tracked.

[Trey T]

thats the same exact tool made by IGUS. All of the companies just buy it from IGUS and add stop block or end-supports to it and have a 100%+ markup.

Cinevate used to do that but they wanted to be unique and developed their own w/ ball-bearing slider.
Anybody ever check out the Pocket Dolly by Kessler Crane? it's in the 500 range, and it's not bad.

[eisurf]

Orson, it's actually a slider for a still/video camera. For smooth side to side, forward/back movements. Can make timelapse photography even more interesting as well.

[Marloon]

Just doing some research on sliders and found this. Looks to be an awesome DIY slider for smooth video work. Relatively cheap as well considering most other sliders I've seen are over a grand. Thought I would share it with you and see if anyone had experience with it. Will be ordering soon.

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=145701

I have tons of tips for those considering this rail system (AND YOU SHOULD!)

1) You need the following:
Tools: 3/8" 16-thread tap + tap handle, 5/16" metal drill bit, a hand drill - a drill press would work better. A vice, center punch, hammer, a square ruler.
Hardware Required: (1) 3/8"-16 thread 1" hex bolt, (2) MacMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/) 9546K78 - these are hexbolts with rubber bumpers on them. They are $10 each but give the rail a finished and clean look, (2) 4"x4"x11" (1) Can of Matt Black Spray.

-MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE THESE THINGS PRIOR TO ORDERING YOUR Igus Drylin W Rail + shuttle. When i ordered my drylin W this morning, i chased around my local shops looking for a 3/8" tap. Tomorrow, I have to head out for a 50min drive to find a tap + tap handle.

2. Ordering: If you are using this for a HDSLR (7D, 5Dii) + a 11-16, or a 16-35 + a rode video mic, you can get the WK-10-40-10-01-XXXX.

WK = rail + shuttle
10 = diameter of each rail (in cm)
40 = width of the rail (in cm)
10 = length of the shuttle (in cm)
01 = number of shuttles used
XXXX = length of shuttle (see below for specific numbers to order).

If you are using this for a bigger setup such as that of a video camera, you might want to consider the WK-16-60-15-01-XXXX. The problem is, when you order it, they will tell you that it's heavily back ordered! - how backordered? try 4 weeks.

When you order the length of your rail, make sure you get use the following lengths ONLY.
3-holes = 0280mm
5-holes = 0520mm
7-holes = 0760mm
9-holes = 1000mm
11-holes = 1240mm
13-holes = 1480mm
15-holes = 1720mm
17-holes = 1920mm

These numbers make sure that there is a pre-drilled hole in the center of your rail.

3. When you get this rail and you intend to do push/pull ins, make sure that you use a 4" riser (http://www.filmtools.com/filmtools-extension-riser-4-n1503a.html). This helps to make sure that the rail does not interfere with your shot.

4. Make sure that when you use it, push from the shuttle and not the camera.

5. Make sure that when you place the camera on the shuttle (or the head that's on the shuttle), make sure that your entire camera's center of balance is in line with the center of the shuttle. You can help line your camera if you use a video head as they have a sliding quick release plate.

If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask. after a day's of heavy researching and reading, im pretty knowledgeable about this slider now. Glidetrack uses the same igus rail + shuttle. I'm selling my glidetrack SD for my own DIY igus silder.

[Marloon]

theres no name for it. it's not called a zazaslider, although ppl will start to call that on this forum, it's just a slider system developed by IGUS that just happens to be used for filming making.

Here's what you should order. just call them up and pretty much tell them that you're part of the filming/video-making community and you want to order a slider system. so yeah, they know a bunch of ppl have been ordering these parts lately.

the parts are:
double rail- WS-10-40 at 800mm long
Assembled carriage- WW-10-40-10*

dictation for the numbers in WS: 10mm-diameter rail w/ 40mm spacing(center to center) at 800mm(2.5feet) span
dictation for the numbers in WW: 10mm-diameter bearing w/ 40mm spacing(center to center) at 100mm(~0.5ft) length. note that is says 10* but it's denote for 100mm. I picked 10*(or 100mm) is because it will yield a maximum distance for sliding.

page 12-13
http://www.igus.com/pdf/drylinw.pdf

It's actually better to pick the 150mm shuttle as oppose to the 100mm because of the wider footprint. Some people remount the holes of the shuttle to have a wider footprint. many claim that it gives a smoother glide.

[basroil]

It's actually better to pick the 150mm shuttle as oppose to the 100mm because of the wider footprint. Some people remount the holes of the shuttle to have a wider footprint. many claim that it gives a smoother glide.

100% bogus/ psychological claims there. Those things are overkill to begin with, lengthening the shuttle won't do much.

[Marloon]

100% bogus/ psychological claims there. Those things are overkill to begin with, lengthening the shuttle won't do much.

I personally have noticed the difference between spacing the slider pieces apart. When the camera is unbalanced (front heavy) when i use it for pull in/push ins, it jerks less when the slider pieces are farther apart - just like how a wider footprint on a tripod gives you greater stability when the system is unbalanced.

[Trey T]

I don't think it's any difference. From my understanding, if your carriage(shuttle as one say) has a wider "footprint", it doesn't change the fact that the load will distribute onto the four bearings will be the same.

The sliding/travelling rate is purely based on load. Therefore, if your load is high, your travelling rate will be decreased bc the friction is increased. Simply speaking, if your carriage is larger, you're putting on more weight onto the "drylin*" bearings, causing the travel rate to decrease. There are other factors when one person might over-tighten the carriage assembly causing the bearing to be floating or dragging, which is easy to do when you change the spacing of the "foot print". On my carriage, I can change the spacing of the footprint and I didn't notice and difference.... well, to me it didn't change.

So, just pick a carriage that is big enough to hold your camera mount such as a fluid head or quick release plate. The one I picked is more than big enough.

---*drylin bearings are plastic bearings, similar to a engine assembly bearing.

[basroil]

I personally have noticed the difference between spacing the slider pieces apart. When the camera is unbalanced (front heavy) when i use it for pull in/push ins, it jerks less when the slider pieces are farther apart - just like how a wider footprint on a tripod gives you greater stability when the system is unbalanced.

Stability on the tripod is slightly different though, usually they are rated for a certain load and the actual loading is close to the rated load, usually 4-15lb (larger ones are around, but don't see those in photography too much). This block is rated for 270lb. Overkill any way you look at it.

[Trey T]

Basroil, do you know the exactly 270lb rating as to how it is rated?

[basroil]

Basroil, do you know the exactly 270lb rating as to how it is rated?

270lb vertical loading before alignment goes out of spec. By that design, you can expect about half that in shear before it starts affecting alignment. You can probably do about twice that before it starts affecting the useful life (well, technically it starts as soon as you put any force on it, but we are talking about times longer than you're tripod or camera will ever see). Similar things from mcmaster carr (same dimensions) will easily support half a ton, though friction will be much higher than with the drylin, and that can be bad depending on how you set up your slider.

Now, the only thing that a wider or longer shuttle will do is correct the alignment a bit more. But we are already talking about less than a degree in normal use with four guide blocks (even just two guide blocks will be fine except for the width axis, three are as good as four).

[ZazaCast]

Hello, Zaza here-
I never realized how far a simple post about a camera slider would travel! It's good to see everyone getting good use frrom my research...slide-on!

Because I'm like a lot of you guys, I'm always looking for ways to improve on my ideas. I've come up with an option that might be of interest to you guys. There's a new support option that is very flexible and will work on most igus based sliders (glidetrack, t-jib, kessler, etc.). Check it out, I'm just getting this together and should be up & running in a few weeks. www.zazaslider.com

Because there is SO much information all over the web, I'm going to try to condense it and get it all in one place. I just had another meeting with the igus rep and you guys will want to know about the new hybrid bearing they have developed that has both a wheel and the Drylin bearing! The sample I got feels REALLY smooth and does offer less resistance than the standard Drylin bearing. I still have to test and will post more information on my site in the near future....standby!

[Trey T]

hey zaza,

it's good to see you here. is there another name of the hybrid bearing?

[ZazaCast]

hey zaza,

it's good to see you here. is there another name of the hybrid bearing?

Yes... sorry for the delay... trying to get the ZazaSlider site built.

The new hybrid bearing is the DryLin "WJRM" ... rolls & slides.
http://www.igus.com/techtalk/drylin/hybrid_linear_bearings.asp

I have one sample from the rep and he will be sending me three more so I can properly test it out. They are only available in the 10mm size for now...and the 16mm should be ready sometime this summer. Although designed for a hanging load (heavy door), they do slide easier. Can't wait to play with them!

I'll keep updating here...

[Trey T]

is there a new carriage for it or it fits on the existing carriage?

*edit: nvm, it doesn't. youll have to drill some hole on the plate/carriage.

[ZazaCast]

I got the hybrid bearings today...and well, on a quick pass...not so much.
First, I put them on a 700mm length of 10-40mm rail I have that is my 'shooter' shoulder mount version. (You can see pictures at www.zazaslider.com in the gallery) The bearings are only available for the 10mm rail at this time; I'm told they will be making them for the 16mm rail by this summer. They do not fit on the standard carriage as Trey T pointed out, but you can still line-up one of the holes.

First I tried adding just one hybrid to the three standard bearings...and there really wasn't any great change, just a little more 'play' in the carriage (which was expected). I then replaced all the others so I was using only hybrid bearings all around. After a bit of tweaking to get a reasonable slide, I discovered these are not as smooth as the standard Drylin bearing. It was as I suspected, these bearings are really designed for heavy hanging loads that put the weight down on the roller and the Drylin bearing is more for alignment...like a heavy, sliding door. In that application, where the weight is down on that roller...sweet!

These didn't slide as smooth as the regular Drylin bearings, had more 'play' and make a bit of noise. I also felt what seemed like an imperfection in the roller that made it feel lopsided, again, not good for a nice smooth slide.

I'm going to test some more and try different combinations, but I really don't see any advantage to these hybrid bearings for a slider so far. I'll post more information shortly. :D

[basroil]

These didn't slide as smooth as the regular Drylin bearings, had more 'play' and make a bit of noise. I also felt what seemed like an imperfection in the roller that made it feel lopsided, again, not good for a nice smooth slide.

I'm going to test some more and try different combinations, but I really don't see any advantage to these hybrid bearings for a slider so far. I'll post more information shortly. :D

Roller/ball bearings are known to have more play and noise as a tradeoff for reduced friction.

But we are talking about putting at most 15lb (like hell most people will do that, if you put more than 8lb on the sliding part alone you're likely using a lens so large that sliding and panning are not that different other than focus issues anyway), and these things are rated for 150lb (small one) and about 500lb for the original rail size, so bearing efficiency likely won't play a part at all unless you use it in a high dirt area. I doubt you'll see much of a difference even after testing, but that's just the engineer in me talking ;)

[ZazaCast]

Roller/ball bearings are known to have more play and noise as a tradeoff for reduced friction.

But we are talking about putting at most 15lb (like hell most people will do that, if you put more than 8lb on the sliding part alone you're likely using a lens so large that sliding and panning are not that different other than focus issues anyway), and these things are rated for 150lb (small one) and about 500lb for the original rail size, so bearing efficiency likely won't play a part at all unless you use it in a high dirt area. I doubt you'll see much of a difference even after testing, but that's just the engineer in me talking ;)

Yes...I agree, but I have to check it out!
http://www.igus.com/techtalk/drylin/...r_bearings.asp

..and it is a roller...as in 'a little wheel'...which will work great for what it was designed to do.

[basroil]

Yes...I agree, but I have to check it out!
http://www.igus.com/techtalk/drylin/...r_bearings.asp

..and it is a roller...as in 'a little wheel'...which will work great for what it was designed to do.

Now if you want to go overboard with DIY and minimal friction, how about turning an old air hockey table into a square rail and using a low noise compressor? Doesn't get any smoother than that this side of the exosphere ;)

And we get variable friction ratings through properly controlled pressure. It would be the variable adjust fluid head of sliders :D

[Trey T]

Joe,

Can you take some pictures of your new hybrid bearing setup(s)?

[ZazaCast]

Here you go... the Hybrid bearing:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn91/zazacast/HyBrid%20Bearings%20-%20ZazaSlider/HybridBearing7.jpg
Hybrid on left...Drylin on right.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn91/zazacast/HyBrid%20Bearings%20-%20ZazaSlider/HybridBearing5.jpg
Notice 'bump' in glide block for the wheel.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn91/zazacast/HyBrid%20Bearings%20-%20ZazaSlider/HybridBearing6.jpg
Again...side by side...

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn91/zazacast/HyBrid%20Bearings%20-%20ZazaSlider/HybridBearing8.jpg
Underside of bearing...wheel

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn91/zazacast/HyBrid%20Bearings%20-%20ZazaSlider/HybridBearing1.jpg

In my tests so far, they really don't make a difference (in a better way). Bearings seem to have more 'play' and make a bit more noise on the slide.
These are only available for the 10mm rail now...16mm is coming in the summer (I'm told).
Again, for our use, these aren't an improvement IMO...althought I've been very happy with the Drylin bearings.:)

[LeavingTheCandy]

The motor drive that Kessler is developing will be kinda cool!

[ZazaCast]

Yes, Eric makes nice stuff...but many others have already added a motor on their own build. It's just a stepper motor.

[LSV]

Yes, Eric makes nice stuff...but many others have already added a motor on their own build. It's just a stepper motor.

I personally like microservos, you can easily get great resolution, sometimes better than steppers, and they are small enough that you can get some foam padding to make them very quiet. And computer control (or standalone using arduinos) makes it a great addition for complicated shots (or if you are already adding a gyro head like some others have done).

[LeavingTheCandy]

Zaza,
Do you know anyone who added one to their Zaza? I'd like to make one for mine. Thanks.

[unbeatable]

After I read this thread. I ordered WS 10-80 hopefully it's good enough for my 5D II. I was going to get the WS 10-40 but the lady recommended WS 10-80 because the rail wider and it will give me more stability. I'll give more update when I get it next week.

[ZazaCast]

After I read this thread. I ordered WS 10-80 hopefully it's good enough for my 5D II. I was going to get the WS 10-40 but the lady recommended WS 10-80 because the rail wider and it will give me more stability. I'll give more update when I get it next week.

The 10-80mm will be fine for the 5D II.... but the 10-40mm will work just fine too. The key to smooth sliding is keeping the weight centered on the carriage. I've put a DVX100b on a 10-40mm with no problems at all....and it's an easy one to transport. I use a 700mm length with my D90, it fits nicely in my backpack for shooting up in the mountains.

[Trey T]

Joe,

It won't make a different bc that bearing is not design to be sitting like that. That wheel needs to be loaded and not as a guide. what you have there is just a wheel guiding along the rail and prolly not even rolling.

I got a sample set and I had to make a bracket and the carriage plate was elevate about 2" for the whole setup to work properly. it works as it should but a lot can be improved. It can carry a lot of load but the whole setup has limitations. They should redesign it and make it work for the 16mm rail and have a true ball bearing wheel instead of the plastic ones.

[ZazaCast]

Joe,

It won't make a different bc that bearing is not design to be sitting like that. That wheel needs to be loaded and not as a guide. what you have there is just a wheel guiding along the rail and prolly not even rolling.

I got a sample set and I had to make a bracket and the carriage plate was elevate about 2" for the whole setup to work properly. it works as it should but a lot can be improved. It can carry a lot of load but the whole setup has limitations. They should redesign it and make it work for the 16mm rail and have a true ball bearing wheel instead of the plastic ones.

Yes Trey... that's what I've been saying all along. It's not designed for the use we have in mind here. Igus has no plans to design anything for us filmmakers...we're such a small market (and cheap!). We'll spend thousands on a camera...but complain about the price of 15mm rods!:)

[basroil]

I got a sample set and I had to make a bracket and the carriage plate was elevate about 2" for the whole setup to work properly. it works as it should but a lot can be improved. It can carry a lot of load but the whole setup has limitations. They should redesign it and make it work for the 16mm rail and have a true ball bearing wheel instead of the plastic ones.

Since we aren't talking about an ENG system weighing over 50lb, nylon ("plastic") bearings are better. Less noise, cheaper, good enough life cycle, no need for lubricants.

[psykohed]

I have tons of tips for those considering this rail system (AND YOU SHOULD!)

If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask. after a day's of heavy researching and reading, im pretty knowledgeable about this slider now. Glidetrack uses the same igus rail + shuttle. I'm selling my glidetrack SD for my own DIY igus silder.

Does the 40mm rail have holes predrilled on the ends for end stops? What type of end stops did you use? Can u give parts and instructions?

thanks

[dlopezphotography]

Im currently selling an extra IGUS rail and Carriage brand new in the boxes if anyone is interested....IGUS goofed up my order and sent me two of each....ended up keeping them


http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=872961

[MysTiKchRis]

YAY just revived mine from igus! now just waiting for the head and Filmtools Riser. =P

[kaitanium]

sorry to bring this topic back up but just had a question for those that have these on hand as to how strong these rails are? since i travel alot, will they fare well in a padded tripod bag in an airplane cargo hold? wont be fun if that thing bends

[dlopezphotography]

sorry to bring this topic back up but just had a question for those that have these on hand as to how strong these rails are? since i travel alot, will they fare well in a padded tripod bag in an airplane cargo hold? wont be fun if that thing bends

super strong.....i travel with mine all the time.....i even dropped it once on a concrete floor....still running strong

[aztecdaz]

i have something similar to this made from the guide rail of an old mount cutter. Drilled the cutting head and mounted a tripod head to it. Very smooth and is around 48" in length. Ill get some pics up soon

[npompei]

I have been researching this slider for few weeks now. And excuse my ignorance, but can someone recommend a tripod head for this slider? I am just getting into video and wanted to try and condense buying things. I am in need of a monopod(I was told the monf.fluid head was good.) Would that be able to mount to the zaza?
If not, can anyone elaborate on the best option for a tripod head to go with a slider, monopod and tripod?

Thanks guys,

[bpaulette]

701HDV would be good

[whitesell]

When you order the length of your rail, make sure you get use the following lengths ONLY.
3-holes = 0280mm
5-holes = 0520mm
7-holes = 0760mm
9-holes = 1000mm
11-holes = 1240mm
13-holes = 1480mm
15-holes = 1720mm
17-holes = 1920mm

These numbers make sure that there is a pre-drilled hole in the center of your rail.

I just received my rail and carriage from Igus. I ordered the 0760mm length. It arrived with six holes, not seven - so there wasn't a hole in the center of the rail. Pretty simple fix, I just drilled one.

Thought I'd report that mine arrived with the holes in a different configuration than reported here.

I've played with it and really like it! I attached my 701HDV head directly to the carriage and it definitely needs a riser. I have a 4" riser on the way from filmtools.com and it should be here in a couple days.

Regards,
Jim

[whitesell]

I've played with the slider a bit and it's pretty easy to manage. You just need to be very light on it when sliding to keep the camera as steady as possible. There are some slider shots in this short group of shots I did a couple days ago:

http://vimeo.com/14241250

Regards,
Jim

[cwr89]

The people over at chessycam.com had an article probably a week ago, apparently Igus got smart, they now sell their rail and dry baring on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XEOZYC/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0C5AM3SDSQGYWRD54H2B&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846

[quinndesign]

I would like to turn you onto http://www.cameramotions.com for camera sliders. They are linear bearing engineers who started making sliders. Also see
Cinevate's new slider: http://colourcraftmedia.com/blog/?p=228 clourcraftmedia did a great initial review of this slider.


Just doing some research on sliders and found this. Looks to be an awesome DIY slider for smooth video work. Relatively cheap as well considering most other sliders I've seen are over a grand. Thought I would share it with you and see if anyone had experience with it. Will be ordering soon.

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=145701

[whitesell]

Hi quinndesign,

Those commercial sliders look good and probably will find their place in the market - but they are more expensive than a DIY Zaza which is it's main benefit for me. I'll be using it occasionally so a lower priced DIY and a half-hour of work in the garage is well worth it for me.

The footage I'm getting with the Zaza slider is indistinguishable from something shot with a slider costing 5 times what I spent. It was the right choice for me!

Regards,

Jim

[candavez]

Here you go... the Hybrid bearing:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn91/zazacast/HyBrid%20Bearings%20-%20ZazaSlider/HybridBearing7.jpg
Hybrid on left...Drylin on right.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn91/zazacast/HyBrid%20Bearings%20-%20ZazaSlider/HybridBearing5.jpg
Notice 'bump' in glide block for the wheel.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn91/zazacast/HyBrid%20Bearings%20-%20ZazaSlider/HybridBearing6.jpg
Again...side by side...

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn91/zazacast/HyBrid%20Bearings%20-%20ZazaSlider/HybridBearing8.jpg
Underside of bearing...wheel

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn91/zazacast/HyBrid%20Bearings%20-%20ZazaSlider/HybridBearing1.jpg

In my tests so far, they really don't make a difference (in a better way). Bearings seem to have more 'play' and make a bit more noise on the slide.
These are only available for the 10mm rail now...16mm is coming in the summer (I'm told).
Again, for our use, these aren't an improvement IMO...althought I've been very happy with the Drylin bearings.:)

Hello ,
I am looking at the two plates side by side and I just want to ask you if these plates are the same for the W10-40 rail or you made a custom made one for the Hybrid one. What I mean is will my old plate fit on the new Hybrid feet as I guess is shown in these pictures?
Thank you very much