Does anyone use(d) an MPE-65 on entry level body?

[Warl0rd]

I want the MPE-65 more and more, but I'm a bit worried about using it on my current body (XSi - 450D), due to the viewfinder size. With the 100mm and the tubes it gets a bit hard to see where the DOF is, the viewfinder isn't very big and bright.

I follow macro work from several photographers who use that lens, and they all have on thing in common, they use XXD or XD bodies.

So...should I switch body before moving to the MPE-65?

I can't deny the 7D looks good :lol:

[tim]

I don't have a 450D or anything like it here, but head to head between a 40D and a 7D the viewfinder's maybe 10-20% bigger on the 7D, max. I don't find the viewfinder shows DOF well, most things are in focus to my eye even with an F1.4 lens, so I have to rely on AF (99.9% of the time) or going backward and forward until I find the center point between where it's out of focus either side (if that makes sense).

[irispatch]

Best person to ask is the master himself Lord V. He can tell you much more about the use of the MPE-65 than anyone on this board.

[weeatmice]

Macrojunkie (google/flickr) uses it on an XTI I think, with great results.

[LordV]

Don't think there's too much advantage of the viewfinder on the more expensive bodies apart from being a bit brighter. Oddly the focus point with an MPE-65 lens is almost easier because the DOF is so thin at higher mags. As commented above Macrojunkie uses an MPE-65 on a 400D body.

Brian V.

[Warl0rd]

can we rely on AF confirmation with the MPE-65?

my experience with 100mm + tubes is no :(

[LordV]

can we rely on AF confirmation with the MPE-65?

my experience with 100mm + tubes is no :(
No - there is no AF at all with the lens.

[Warl0rd]

I think I'm gonna contact him and ask the question. I never tried macro with a pentaprism viewfinder, but for general use (on a 40D) I recall it was considerably bigger and brighter then my pentamirror...

[Choderboy]

I don't see the need to get the new body. You want an MP-E , buy one. Try it on your body. See what you think. Then you have the option of buying a new body.
See anything wrong with that logic?

[themadman]

I don't see the need to get the new body. You want an MP-E , buy one. Try it on your body. See what you think. Then you have the option of buying a new body.
See anything wrong with that logic?

Or if you don't like it you can gift it to me! I'll pay shipping and take you out for a drink! =)

[Warl0rd]

I don't see the need to get the new body. You want an MP-E , buy one. Try it on your body. See what you think. Then you have the option of buying a new body.
See anything wrong with that logic?buying the MPE-65 isn't the same as buying the MPE-65 + body at the same time. we are talking about more then twice as much...

[DQE]

If viewfinder darkness is a major concern, you can use an auxiliary focus assist light, which I find to be especially helpful at higher mags. It isn't bright enough to affect the photos at ISO 100-200, even with my very high-intensity 3-watt/80 lumen LED flashlight. I use 2 rechargeable Eneloop AA NiMH batteries, good for at least 1 hour of continuous use in this flashlight.

I find that most bugs do not react much to this very high-intensity light, which I hold in my left hand pressed against the lens barrel. They instead mostly react to dark shadows. If anything, they seem to become briefly paralyzed by the flashlight. This helps you see the finest detail in the viewfinder.

I hope this option helps. I gather that most of the best macro photographers don't use a focus assist light routinely, but perhaps it's worth trying as an ordinary mortal. They cost 25-50 US dollars online with these specs if you shop around - no need for the very expensive police/military flashlight models. The inexpensive Chinese models work fine, or at least mine does - it's by Mallory, purchased at Wal-Mart. Having at least 80 lumens output (3 watts) is helpful.

[MrContact]

I use the Rebel T1i 500D (If I recall correctly) with my MPE lens. If you are having trouble with the viewfinder, switching the mode so the picture is seen on the little screen can help out alot in lower light situations. using a half-press will activate flash view mode, and it will brighten up the entire screen more then enough for a clear shot to be taken.
Of course by the point you need to activate the screen, you will need a decent flash to get a great shot out of it.

One thing I always like to repeat is the Glass before Bodies rule. Bodies can come and go, but a good piece of glass will last you a long time.

[racketman]

I had the MP-E whilst I was still using the 350D, no problems at all.