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drisley
28th of June 2005 (Tue), 23:18
I try to use my 420ex as a fill flash as much as possible with the 20D.
One of my favourite uses is outside on bright afternoons.
However, one problem I have is that the flash light is often very "cold" compared to the sunlight, or even the tungsten light when used indoors. I've often wondered what I could do to correct this.
Well, I came across the "Gold Omnibounce (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=258221&is=REG&addedTroughType=search)" at BH, and I wonder if that would do the trick?
Has anybody here used it before? I also will have to try and track down a gold one that fits the 420ex.

Here is a perfect example of the colour problem with an indoor fill:
http://www.fotop.net/sharpnsmart/prov2005men/IMG_9952

Todd Jacobsen
29th of June 2005 (Wed), 09:24
I haven't tried a gold omnibounce. I do own the Lumiquest Promax System (80-20 w/ attachments) that comes with a gold insert but have not attempted an outdoors shot with it.

I do recommend the ProMax System for outdoor shots above the Omnibounce. The Omnibounce was not really intended for direct flash exposure.

You may want to look into a gold reflector vs a gold omnibounce.

PhotosGuy
30th of June 2005 (Thu), 08:01
As a prior film guy, I'd stick with a white or silver, & gell the flash head to get the color balance I wanted & eliminate having to carry extra different colored brollys. Roscor theatrical gells are cheap & perfect for the purpose. Pick up a sample book which probably won't work for you as the samples are small, but they're a good size for the 283's I use a lot. ;)

http://www.productionadvantageonline.com/color.htm
http://www.productionadvantageonline.com/color.htm#ROSCO%20COLOR

drisley
30th of June 2005 (Thu), 12:31
Thanks Photosguy.
That looks almost perfect. Now I wonder if I can find those locally.

PhotosGuy
30th of June 2005 (Thu), 20:54
Ask the lighting director at the local acting theater if you have one nearby. The centers of the gells will burn out but the edges might work for you.
Some bars might use them for bar bands, too.

jrsforums
30th of June 2005 (Thu), 21:08
I have the Gold Stofen. It is really great if you want to add warmth to a scene. If you are trying to match incandescent light it is a bit of a mismatch...coming, best I can tell, at about 3800K.

Problem with incandescent is that it covers a range. Studio lights are mostly at 3200K. Many home, pub, wedding environs are down about 2800-2900K, especially i they are on dimmers.

As the poster above said, a good approach is are CTO gels, which convert daylight to Tungsten....the exact temp dependant on the density of the gel. I have tried both Roscoe (see post above) and Lee gels. I find the Roscoe to be a little too red, so will continue talking about Lee gels.

The Lee 3/4 CTO (#285) and full CTO (#204) gel are rated to reduce daylight to 3600K and 3200K respectively (see: http://www.leefilters.com/LP1.asp?PageID=33 ). However, "daylight" is cinematographer daylight=6500K. Most flashs will be 5500-5800K dependent on capacitor full charge and length of flash. If you calculate the mired shift based on flash, Lee 3/4 CTO will get you around 3200K and Full ~2800K.

You can get samples from lee to tape over the flash, but you can also get ull 20"x20" sheets from cinema shops such as FilmTools (CA, USA) for about $6. You could also use a white Stofen Omnibounce to hold the gel to the top of the flash head...getting color correction and bounce/diffusion at the same time.

I, personally, don't like taping or mashing gels under the Stofen. What I did was spring for 2 add'l white Stofens. I used the clear plastic tops of CD "clamshells"...the ones with translucent bottoms and clear tops (not the commercial "jewel boxes" that you buy CD/DVDs in). The tops are soft enough to cut with sissors, but stiff. Cut to just fit into the inside of the Stofen where the lip meets the top of the flash head. Use thin strips of double-back transparent tape to attach get and push into Stofen....now you have an easy to use flash color temp converter...one if in 3200K...one 2800K...one of these should get you close enough to avoid bright blue flash foregrounds with orange backgrounds.

John