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colin uk
2nd of March 2003 (Sun), 16:52
When I take shots using the TV mode to change the shutter speed I get a blueness that is not always welcome. Can any one explain why or tell me how to prevent this effect.

mriley
3rd of March 2003 (Mon), 15:01
When you shoot in the TV mode do your pictures have a bluish tent overall or are they just bluish in certain area in the picture?

roncor
3rd of March 2003 (Mon), 15:14
Colin, would you post an original picture? That way, we can look at the pic itself and the exif information. Maybe, we can see something that will help.

colin uk
3rd of March 2003 (Mon), 16:20
yes they seem to have an overall blue tint

Thanks for your interest

colin uk
3rd of March 2003 (Mon), 16:34
these are two shots I entitled REAL [auto] and ALMOST REAL [tv] . In this case it seems to work and the blue tint seems to enchance in the ALMOST REAL photo but you can clearly see the difference in coloring between the two.

pwaldo
3rd of March 2003 (Mon), 18:18
One thing with the G3 that can be "tricky" is that not all settings programmed for one mode (e.g., Tv, or P) are also set for another mode. I believe the G3 manual lists which are "global" and which parameters only affect settings in a certain mode.

For instance, in AUTO mode, you may not be able to set white balance, but in other modes you can. (I don't have my camera nor manual in front of me so I can't vouch whether this specific example is true.) Almost NO settings will apply to whatever is already stored in C1 or C2 (that is, if you change, say the ISO, in P Mode, then switch to C2, you will likely have whatever the ISO setting was last set for C2 mode).

Right now I have no easy way to remember which parameters carry over from one mode to the next. Worst of all, it is much easier-than-it-should-be to inadvertantly switch from one mode to another. On my wish list for G4: mode dial that you have to lift to turn. (Of course something like this is hell for underwater housings design/use.)

BruceW
4th of March 2003 (Tue), 05:33
Colin,

I think pwaldo may have hit on your problem.

I checked both the manual and on the Camera. ie In AUTO mode you cannot change out of Auto White Balance. In all other modes you can, and what's more it stays that way when you turn off and back on.

A test to confirm:

Turn on the camera into AUTO picture taking mode. Note the letters: "AWB" in the bottom left of the Display Panel (ie. top of camera). Now while changing to Av, keep looking at this part of the Display Panel. If it changes, then that is you problem, and the solution is as follows:

While in Av mode, select WB on the Omni selector, now keep clicking on either the left arrow or right arrow of the Omni selector until the AWB symbol appaears on the Display Panel. Now click on WB on the Omni selector again to get back to normal shooting mode.

Bruce

colin uk
4th of March 2003 (Tue), 17:22
I have taken a couple of test shots that seem to confirm your solution Bruce.

I am grateful to you Bruce and pwaldo for your help.

pwaldo
4th of March 2003 (Tue), 20:06
I "fiddled" a bit with my camera and noticed that there are several items that are not preserved between some of the modes. The main difference is between each of the "auto" settings (Auto, Landscape, Portrait) and the "manual" settings (P, Tv, Ae, M) and the "custom" modes.

C1 and C2 remember ONLY the settings when you saved them. If you saved C1 with ISO set to "Ls" then later select C1 mode switching ISO to RAW, you'll get RAW. => But this is not preserved!

BruceW
5th of March 2003 (Wed), 05:04
Peter,

On page 204/205 of the manual there is a table of what will and won't work in each shooting mode. Shading is used to indicate what settings remain in effect after power off .

Perhaps of more interest to you is that the manual (or at least some of it) is actually on line at:

http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/PSG3/PSG3_01-e.html

Since it's in color it has an advantage over the b&w manual that came with the camera.

The above mentioned table is at:

http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/PSG3/PSG3_133-e.html

The problem you mention with the LCD when used in sunlight is a problem I have also experienced. I am am sure it is a common problem not only with the G3 but with most digital cameras that used LCDs. You may be interested in a solution I have been playing with and discussed in a recent posting under the topic heading of something like: "g3 for $609.95". It has a link to a photo of a mockup device I made as a trial.

If you want to see what the trial version looked like I posted pictures at:

http://community.webshots.com/user/imbrucew

in the hobbies album.




Bruce

pwaldo
5th of March 2003 (Wed), 14:28
Thanks, Bruce.

The table is helpful (and somewhat better in color), but it still doesn't address which parameters are preserved when switching between modes. (Experience is best for this.)

Your "viewfinder" adapter looks pretty useful. Does it attach or do you just hold it in place? Looks like it's best suited for tripod work.

I've been tempted to bring out my view camera focusing cloth on some of the brighter days.

In general, I prefer shooting with the optical finder (unless there's a lens adapter in place). Much faster to compose and shoot--though you don't always get the photo as you pre-conceived it.

Also, you don't need your reading glasses to look through the optical finder, but you DO need them if you're using the LCD display. For those of you *with* reading glasses, you know what I'm talking about. For those of you *without* reading glasses, YOUR DAY WILL COME! ;)

++ Peter

BruceW
6th of March 2003 (Thu), 05:27
Peter,

Unfortunately my day has come. (re glasses, that is).

The adaptor was just a quick mock up to see if it would solve the problems. It only took about 15 minutes to make. Actually it's the second try, so make that 1/2 an hour. The intension is that it will be held on by something other than by hand. I just haven't decided the best way yet. First I need to find slightly better shaped plastic bottle to cut up. The test bottle was an old Ilford 1 litre Developer bottle, which had the right rectangular shape but the wrong angle for the funnel shape, resulting in the base being bigger than the LCD.

I'm assuming that a "view camera focusing cloth" is a black cloth that covers your head and camera as a shade, like you see used with the first cameras used?


Bruce