Do all DSLR photos require post processing

[reneemc]

I purchased a new 20D and I have shot mainly in JPEG. I know if I shoot in RAW I have to convert them but I was wondering if every picture I take needs to be
manipulated in photo shop. I hope I do not sound like an idiot LOL!

[ssim]

There is a general consensus that most images taken by DSLR's require some level of post processing. This is of course dependant upon your settings in your camera to a certain degree. If you are shooting JPG do you have in-camera sharpening set. There are many variable you can set in the menus that will make your images production ready right out of the camera assuming that you nail the exposure bang on.

In actual fact you are the only one that can tell whether the image you are looking at is satisfactory or if it needs some tweaking. It is all in the eye of the beholder.

I only shot JPG on the first card worth of images on my 20D. This was just to do a quick idiot (me) check on it. They looked very good and then I moved onto RAW. I never shoot anything but RAW now.

[dsze]

Hi, no you do not sound like an idiot at all...

Short answer, YES. I believe that every digital photo needs to be "developed" just like any film negative. They do not all require hours of post processing, but they all need some, even if it is a 10 second PS Action that you run on them. You can set the parameters in your camera (if shooting JPG) to boost contrast, sharpness, saturation, but personally I think they still need a little bit of Post Processing. My opinion is based solely on my experiences. That is, I've never gotten an image out of one of my dSLR's that didn't look better with at least a little bit of processing in PS. Then again, I shoot almost entirely RAW and even when I shoot jpg, I leave all parameters on ZERO and shoot in Adobe RGB. I think that I get better results doing that processing myself rather than letting the camera apply the same settings to every image. Hope that helps. Others will have differing opinions as well.

-daniel

[Rigrider]

While you do have to convert RAW images, the amount "tweaking" you do is up to you. With Adobe CS2 you can process batches of raw images in one shot. Personally I do a little tweaking with almost all my images. I liken it to processing film. You have to develop each picture. At least this way I can do it myself! :D

L8r,

[reneemc]

Looks like I need to get a new version of Photoshop. I have Elements 2.0 and I really no not want to spend hours on the computer. I have not shot is RAW because I am not that great at the settings but I want to learn. Maybe I just purchased more camera than I really need. Thanks for all of your wonderful responses.

[David1943]

There's absolutely no practical reason why anybody must PP a JPEG - in fact some printers can receive and print pictures straight from a card - but I think most people agree that most images benefit by some manipulation, if only cropping and contrast.

I rarely shoot in JPG nowadays, preferring the added security of shooting in RAW.

Perhaps because I began my photography in the days when it was the norm to make adjustments at the enlarging stage way before digital came along, I don't feel I've done with a picture until I've converted it into TIF and played with it in PSE until I'm happy with it.


Happy snapping, David :)

[AjP]

since I only shoot RAW, I do some post processing, really little, the only big post processing if image really cut my attention and I have an idea to make something incredible, like color-b/w image, some effect, etc.. but over all not much processing for majority of images

[David1943]

Looks like I need to get a new version of Photoshop. I have Elements 2.0 and I really no not want to spend hours on the computer. I have not shot is RAW because I am not that great at the settings but I want to learn. Maybe I just purchased more camera than I really need. Thanks for all of your wonderful responses.
No need to buy any more software just yet. If you wish to try shooting and converting RAW, simply download Pixmantec Rawshooter which is free and PP your images there before converting them to TIF which your PSE-2 can handle.

The best way not to let PSE-2 overwhelm you, is to learn one tool at a time and not try to take everything in at once. If you get stuck on anything there's an excellent user-to-user forum you can join free and ask your questions. http://www.adobeforums.com/Images/m/usertouserforums.gif


Regards, David :)

[lordjim]

Reneemc -

I do not know what made you think that you needed a new version of Photoshop. Photoshop Elements 2 is a great software to start with. A more sophisticated software such as Photoshop CS2 will be even more complex to use as you will have more parameters to play with. If I were you I would keep Elements 2 and start learning with it (that's what I did).

For RAW conversion, you can use Digital Photo Professionals that came with your 20D. It is a very good software for RAW conversion.

You should be aware that some cameras require more post processing than others. I understand that Nikon digital SLRs generally have a better image before post processing. My experience is that some P&S (such as the Canon A95) also may have better image right out of the camera. But then, they limit you in other ways and can not be used in the same range of lighting conditions.

Overall, the 20D is a really good camera but it is true that the images are better with some post processing.

Hope that helps.

[condyk]

Depends on whether you want the maximum results or not. I would say yes, every time you want to fine tune an image, but as has been mentioned it takes no time to do. Once you know what come out from each lens then you can just apply pretty much the same defaults every time. Takes me maybe 15- 20 seconds per image ... add maybe 5 seconds if I want to crop as well. Of course, you only process images you want and you see that easily and delete the less than optimum ones without even opening them up.

In the old days you would go down the chemist, leave the film with some guy who was whizzing 100's of frames through a maching at a time while scratching his crotch and looking out the window :lol: and then a few days later you'd pick them up and wonder why they all looked somehow not quite right. Now we have full control so we can QA everything according to our own standards, not those of some guy with other things on his mind. Now that's a breakthrough :D

[lordjim]

You may want to start by learning how to use two tools in Elements 2: Brightness/Contrast and Unsharp Mask ("USM").

Then, you may want to learn how to use Levels (that will replace Brightness/Contrast).

Make sure to make a copy of your original image as a back-up before doing anything on it.

Hope that helps.

[Curtis N]

I was wondering if every picture I take needs to be manipulated in photo shop.No.

You can shoot in JPEG mode, pull the CF card out and take it to *Mart for some nice 4x6 prints. Of course, you can also do that with a $200 camera.

The fact that you shelled out some serious $$$ for a 20D indicates that your goals are a bit higher than Mr. Pocket Camera guy. Learning about image processing will help you reach those goals.

[GyRob]

I had a 20d and found that winding the parameters up helped but even then they still need some sort of processing to make them look better,its just the same with my mk2 i have uped the settings and still have to post process,its just one of thoes things im afraid.
Rob.

[lostdoggy]

You sholdn't be intimidated by technology. Instead, you hold embrace technology. find yourslf a good book like PSE-2 for Dummies, not to mock you I have that book,and read it chapter by chapter. Getting a newer version or a more able version won't help. It would make the learn curve just that much higher. Try RAW out use DPP that came with the camera its not that hard. The trick is to trust your eyes and make small adjustments. There are basicly only 2 that you need to lean on DPP. The first and the most importnt one is white balance (WB) this will make the image more natural looking. The second is brightness or level. Level is will allow you to adjust the brightness of te shadows (left black arrow), midtones (gray center arrow), and hghlight (white right arrow). If look at your camera's histogram you'll notice that they will look the same, but w/o the arrows o the bottom. I too amin the learning stage and have learned quite a bit from reading and participating in the forum. There are also very good tutorials in the Adobe site, you should take a look. Before long you'll be aching to have your hands on the PSCS-2. BTW PSE is 70% of PS.

[Avalonthas]

You dont need to edit any personal shots if u dont want to as long as u got descent jpeg settings set right. However if u want a really stunning photograph or something to use commercially then you have a 1/100000 chance of having a good unedited photo.

[mdm]

I tried RAW SHOOTERS ESSENTIALS and it seems faster than the Canon software in adjustments and getting jpegs. It also seems more user friendly than Canon software.

[reneemc]

You guys are great! Thanks for all of this tips. I will try to get better with PSE2. I do want to get better pictures and a little work on my part is all I need. Thanks to all of you!

[Tixeon]

Hi Reneemc;

One thing I don't see discussed much here is the difference between Adobe RGB & sRGB when shooting RAW. Adobe RGB tends to look quite flat & will need much more post processing than sRGB - in my experience. I do portraits for a living with a 10D set to sRGB RAW & only occasionally need to post process other than convert to TIFF. Virtually all settings are at default & I use a custom white balance when in the studio with the studio flash rig. On outdoor shots in the shade I may bump the Kelvin by 300 or 400 deg during processing to warm the flesh tones. Of course we all have our preferences & this works for me with minimal work. The best way to learn is to not be afraid to try different settings & make note of the differences. Good luck.....

Tim

[Rigrider]

Tim: Aaaa, now we're getting into Colour Management, which is a whole other (and also very important) topic. While you are right that sometimes Adobe RGB will come out looking a little flat, that has alot to do with the fact that it has a wider gamut (colour range). This is important if you plan on printing the shots. sRGB is a standard ment mostly for the web, and therefore has a much smaller gamut. This can really hinder your processing if you're going for print quality.

Oh and remeemc: before you go "eyeing" your shot CALIBRATE YOUR MONITOR!!!!! if you don't, nothing you "see" will mean a darn!!


L8r,

[Tixeon]

Rigrider;

You're absolutely right in the most technical understanding. After having shot medium format Kodak Professional film for over 30 yrs I find sRGB to be equal in color quality when lab printed (Fuji Frontier, not InkJet) with no adjustments by the lab. You are correct.....Monitors must be calibrated.

Actually my info above was meant as an example of my procedures, not meaning that my was technically ideal for everyone. I was trying to show reenemc that it is possible to get very good results with minimal post processing. Of course a lot of experience helps tremendously.

Tim

[dsze]

Adobe RGB is a wider gamut... sRGB looks better on monitors straight out of camera, but A.RGB actually contains more color information. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please.

-daniel

[ron chappel]

You should be aware that some cameras require more post processing than others. I understand that Nikon digital SLRs generally have a better image before post processing. My experience is that some P&S (such as the Canon A95) also may have better image right out of the camera. But then, they limit you in other ways and can not be used in the same range of lighting conditions.

Overall, the 20D is a really good camera but it is true that the images are better with some post processing

I see and hear the same thing.
Digicams allways tend to be near the limit in sharpness etc. Post proccessing is rarely needed
Nikon definitely add more in-camera sharpness,contrast and saturation than canon while pentax are similar(?)

The minolta gives very low sharpness/contrast/colour- even less so than canon it seems

[Hellashot]

You may want to start by learning how to use two tools in Elements 2: Brightness/Contrast and Unsharp Mask ("USM").

Then, you may want to learn how to use Levels (that will replace Brightness/Contrast).

Make sure to make a copy of your original image as a back-up before doing anything on it.

Hope that helps.

You really need PSE 3 that has the ability to lighten shadows and darken highlights. Once you have those control, you'll see that you don't want to use brightness and contrast setting to correct exposre of an image.

[SeanH]

With your 20D you should be able to print right from the camera, but again you can ALWAYS make them look better with PS. For shots other than portraits I would just use P-1(Rebel settings), and if your gonna shot portraits you can just use P-2. Myself I use Set 1 and turn the sharpness to max. Now the 2 days I had the 1D mk2, I would say that's a MUST for processing.......that's why I only had it 2 days :wink: