How about all you "Macro Pros" giving some Tips?

[Ricardo222]

^^ Paul, that is a terrific shot, and good advice as well...I have used a similar method for macros and find it works well.

BTW...could I have the name of that fellow's hair stylist?

[Ricardo222]

....

You will not sensibly get the whole insect in focus except at small magnifications, this is where the practice comes in, you have to place the plane of focus to suit the composition and orientation of the subject.

With difficult subjects you can take many shots, for bee in flight if you get 1 in 50 or so usable you are doing well.

This is very good advice IMO!

You do better than I do, Lester...I have biffed so many shots where the bee just made it out of the frame, or worse, I have captured the last 5mm of it's bum....1 in 50 seems a good average for bees in flight!

[pelooyen]

^^ Paul, that is a terrific shot, and good advice as well...I have used a similar method for macros and find it works well.

BTW...could I have the name of that fellow's hair stylist?

haha - too funny - thanks for the compliment

[N.V.M.]

i've been reading the first page of this thread and it was suggested that the ISO should be between 200 and 400. why would'nt one try to use the slowest ISO?

[Ricardo222]

i've been reading the first page of this thread and it was suggested that the ISO should be between 200 and 400. why would'nt one try to use the slowest ISO?

Good point. But with the 5D2 ISO 200 is just about as good as it gets, and 400 isn't much worse, so it would pay to use the highest ISO that allows the quality you need...just to help avoid degradation of the image by movement, or to help extend the DOF a little.

But you are right to draw ISO to our attention, because we need to consider ALL factors affecting IQ.

[troypiggo]

As Ricardo suggests, it's a trade-off between shutter speed and image quality. To get a desirable DoF you need to close the shutter down, to freeze motion due to bugs moving or breeze blowing you need faster shutter speeds. Both of these starve you of light, so you need to up the ISO and/or introduce flash. More flash, less ISO will give you dark/black backgrounds. Less flash, higher ISO means more like fill flash, more appealing backgrounds IMO and find it easier to not blow out with the flash.

[N.V.M.]

makes sense. thanks. will experiment with that.

[gjl711]

i've been reading the first page of this thread and it was suggested that the ISO should be between 200 and 400. why would'nt one try to use the slowest ISO?Realize that the first page is from 2005. A lot has happened since then and 200-400 ISO in 2005 is probably more like 800-1600 today depending on camera. On my 5DII I have no issue shooting with as high ISO as possible especially when you start getting really close (5x or more). It doesn't take much movement to impact a picture at high magnifications.

[Ballen Photo]

Realize that the first page is from 2005.
WOW! Didn't realize this thread was that old already. Time flies when you're having fun. ;)
A lot has happened since then and 200-400 ISO in 2005 is probably more like 800-1600 today depending on camera. On my 5DII I have no issue shooting with as high ISO as possible especially when you start getting really close (5x or more). It doesn't take much movement to impact a picture at high magnifications.
True, A lot has changed in the world of Digital Photography as far as sensors and software go, but fortunately the basics remain. :)
-Bruce

[gjl711]

but fortunately the basics remain. :)
-Bruceyes they do, all the way back to Daguerre. It's just the settings that have changes. I would have never considered ISO1500 on my XP but on my 5DII it's nothing.

[calypsob]

I found this site which shares several online books about focus stacking and macro photography techniques. Brilliant, http://www.macrostop.com/

[Ricardo222]

I found this site which shares several online books about focus stacking and macro photography techniques. Brilliant, http://www.macrostop.com/

Thanks for that. I thought this thread had died! The first of those two books looks interesting, though there is a lot accessible on POTN if you burrow into the macro section a bit. Brian Valentine (LordV)and others have made some wonderful information available.

[haozoudao]

Hi there
I'm a new member but have been taking macro shots for a few years now. Take a look at my work at http://tanyaevans.photium.com
If you like this work then this is how I usually create the results:

1. Set your camera up on a tripod with a shutter release cable on the camera
2. Use reflectors if you have them - if not tin foil works wonders
3. Get good flowers, I like orange gerberas
4. Spray water onto the flower head - the droplets give fantastic results
5. A good macro lens like 100mm f/2.8 is a godsend
6. Good lighting and patience
You will take loads of photos before you get the shot you really like.
Good luck
Tanya

[Ricardo222]

Hi there
I'm a new member but have been taking macro shots for a few years now. Take a look at my work at http://tanyaevans.photium.com
If you like this work then this is how I usually create the results:

1. Set your camera up on a tripod with a shutter release cable on the camera
2. Use reflectors if you have them - if not tin foil works wonders
3. Get good flowers, I like orange gerberas
4. Spray water onto the flower head - the droplets give fantastic results
5. A good macro lens like 100mm f/2.8 is a godsend
6. Good lighting and patience
You will take loads of photos before you get the shot you really like.
Good luck
Tanya

I tried, Tanya, but your website seems inaccessible...there was a message saying it has expired. (Down for maintenance?)