35mm film on a mountain

[Spearin]

Next week I am climbing a mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Long story short, it's with the Army (which I've been in for 3 years) in honour of a Victoria Cross winner who was a part of our regiment (North Saskatchewan Regiment) during both World Wars and now the mountain is named after him.

Of course I'll be lugging my PowerShot S400 (hardly lugging), Slik Pro 340DX tripod, and EOS 650... yes, 35mm film *gasp* as I don't own a DSLR (yet). Anyways, if there is anyone out there who has any advice on landscape photography at high altitudes, it would be much appreciated.

I bought 2 roles of ISO 200 film today (and 3 of 400). I plan on using the 200 if it's a bright and sunny day, but will use 400 otherwise. Does anyone also have advice on using 200 ISO film? I am going to practice on one roll before I go to see its performance on this camera under those conditions.

Hopefully things will work out nicely and I can take some really nice photos from the summit!

Slainte,

[robertwgross]

There are some standard traps for the beginner photographer in the mountains.

First of all, if you are right in front of a steep cliff, it is very difficult to make it look steep in the camera. If you want to make it look steep, then step to the side and shoot it more in profile.

Polarizers work pretty good if you have sky with white clouds. But if it gets dark and gray, take the polarizer off.

Back in my early film days, I shot a lot of Ektachrome 64, 100, and 200, and Elite Chrome. More recently, I went to slower stuff like Velvia 50 and Provia 100. I had to spend more time shooting off a tripod, but the color saturation looks good.

I shoot almost zero film now. Generally only on the days when my digital camera has just been smashed on a big rock.

---Bob Gross---

[primoz]

With film I use pretty much only Velvia 50, Provia 100F and in some really extreme cases Provia 400F. All dias films can be pushed for stop or two without any problems so this makes it easier when you want to narrow your selection. In your case I would probably go with Velvia and Provia 100f, and if it would be really too slow you can always push Provia too iso 400, which should be more then enough for any outdoor use.
Iso 200 films are something what I was never using. It's not that much faster then iso 100 and it's not that much better then 400 film in grain.

[PhotosGuy]

I'd be sure to use a UV (Skylight) filter on the film cam to cut down on the blue haze. The PowerShot S400 may have one built into the sensor, but you should check on that. Shoot RAW on the important shots, unless you think you want to climb up there again to reshoot the ones you messed up! ;-)

[ScottE]

You will want to use a wide angle lens for mountain photography, but be certain to keep foreground, middle ground and background elements in the photo. If you just have background, as we are all tempted to do, a wide angle lens can do a good job of making a big mountain look small.

At high altitude light can have a bit of a blue tint. A UV or slightly warm filter might help. It's been a while since I used slide film, but I think it was an 81A or 81B that I used. If you are using print film this will usually be corrected at the time of printing, but you are at the printer's mercy.

If you use a polarizer filter, be very careful at high altitude. Too much polarization can make the sky black.

At altitude in the mountains always be ready to take photos just before and after sunset and sunrise. You often get alpenglow that gives a surreal colour.

If you are taking pictures of grizzly bears or of goats or sheep on a steep rock face use a telephoto lens. Getting close with a wide angle lens can damage your health and life expectancy.

Air gets thin at high altitude, especially if you're not used to it. "Needing" to stop to set up and take a picture can be a good excuse to catch your breath without letting your altitude aclimatized friends think your a wimp.

Take lots of film, at least twice as much as you think you'll need. Film doesn't weigh much and there is nothing worse than running out when you are in a prime location that you might not return to.

[Spearin]

Thanks for all of the input :) I will take it all into account and try my best to think of it when I'm up there! However, I'm not equipped very well, as I don't have any filters and limited to just the 50mm lense. I will do my best with what I have.

[robertwgross]

Some years ago, an expedition of us went to South America to climb a big peak. By the time I got up to Base Camp at 14,000 feet, I realized that I was not going to be able to carry much of my 35mm SLR rig up the mountain with its lenses. At the last minute, I decided to carry up only a 35mm P&S, since it was lightweight. The other expedition photographer had broken his lightweight P&S camera, so he had to carry his heavy rig up, which was a heavy Nikon. Partly as a result of the weight of what we carried, I made it to the summit and got the summit shot. Mister Nikon had to quit 2000 feet below.

The moral is that it doesn't do any good to have the best camera rig on the mountain if it is too heavy to carry everywhere.

---Bob Gross---

[PhotosGuy]

Air gets thin at high altitude, especially if you're not used to it. "Needing" to stop to set up and take a picture can be a good excuse to catch your breath without letting your altitude aclimatized friends think your a wimp. I forgot about that! Altitude dehydrates fast, so drink lots of water. If you start feeling sick, STOP. If you stay sick, GO DOWN!
Your physical condition makes NO difference at all.
Years ago I was skiing at 12,000 feet with a friend who ran marathons, so he was in great shape. He got altitude sickness & had to be coptered down. It turned into pneumonia & he was in the hospital for several days.
I was in average shape, a two pack a day smoker, & had no problems at all. Go figure.

A good rule of thumb to follow is: Take a step. Take a breath. Take a step. Take a breath. Avoid an oxygen debt that you can't pay! ;)