View Full Version : Focusing on the eyes with a XSi
FelixDeSouze
11th of May 2010 (Tue), 01:48
Hi all,
I've been getting more into portrait photography lately and I'm using the eyes as the focusing point.. I was just wondering what the best technique was for ensuring that BOTH eyes are totally sharp and in focus..
At present, I use the focusing points but I can only focus on one point at a time and I try and set the focus point on one eye and half press the shutter button, then make sure that the head is in the correct position in the frame which often means moving the focusing point slighlty higher. Is this correct? Or is there an easier way of making sure they are completely sharp and in focus?
Any help is appreciated :)
Hawk's Feather
11th of May 2010 (Tue), 09:13
I have an XSi and have gone to only using the one center point for focus. Since you said "focusing points" I assume that you are using multiple and not a single spot. This allows me use it to focus on the eye, press the release enough to lock the focus, and then make any adjustment, and shoot.
As for getting both eyes in focus, you need to consider your depth of field. The lower the f-stop the less will be in focus and the higher the f-stop the more will be in focus. The "trick" for lack of a better term is getting enough depth of field so that both eyes are in focus and yet not all of the background is in focus. In a portrait if everything is in focus the image will look busy and the person is not the center of interest.
If you haven't already tried using several of the different modes it might be worthwhile. If you don't have a model that is interested in sitting there for long periods of time while you "play" you can always blow up a balloon and draw a face (or at least eyes) on it, to practice.
Jerry
Just a couple of thoughts: could be good, could be bad.
FelixDeSouze
11th of May 2010 (Tue), 09:53
I have an XSi and have gone to only using the one center point for focus. Since you said "focusing points" I assume that you are using multiple and not a single spot. This allows me use it to focus on the eye, press the release enough to lock the focus, and then make any adjustment, and shoot.
As for getting both eyes in focus, you need to consider your depth of field. The lower the f-stop the less will be in focus and the higher the f-stop the more will be in focus. The "trick" for lack of a better term is getting enough depth of field so that both eyes are in focus and yet not all of the background is in focus. In a portrait if everything is in focus the image will look busy and the person is not the center of interest.
If you haven't already tried using several of the different modes it might be worthwhile. If you don't have a model that is interested in sitting there for long periods of time while you "play" you can always blow up a balloon and draw a face (or at least eyes) on it, to practice.
Jerry
Just a couple of thoughts: could be good, could be bad.
Appreciate your input mate.. When I say focus points, I did mean only one at any one time.. i.e. I would focus on the left eye and the right eye would be slightly oof.. But again, as you say.. I guess this is to do with the DoF and distance from subject, etc.
I will try the trick to focus on the eye and then move the camera to where I want it.. I'm going to be doing some test shoots tonight with my g/f to see if I can improve that lil bit more before I have some other subjects that I will have limited time with :)
I'll see if I can get the eyes crystel clear on my next shot :)
I use a shoot through umbrella as well so I will have sufficient light :)
Hawk's Feather
11th of May 2010 (Tue), 10:16
The bad thing about the internet for me is that I can only read. Have you changed the autofocus (button on the back of the camera, top right) to a single center dot? Another way to check, is it still showing more than one red focus dot when you start to press down the shutter? The reason I am asking is that you still used "focus points" and "only one at a time". Doing this will allow you to change it from the 9 focus spots to a single focus spot. I have mine set for the center (and only the center) focus spot. When I go to take a picture only one red spot shows up in the viewfinder.
You also might want to try the depth of field preview button to get a better idea of what is in focus.
Jerry
FelixDeSouze
11th of May 2010 (Tue), 10:19
I do change the focus point and it is only ever 1 focus point at a time.. I never have it set on autofocus unless I need to (i.e. all 9 spots lit up).
I don't always use the centre focus point, I sometimes use to tops or diagonal corners depending on what I have as a subject.. Do you think it's worth just using the centre spot, focus.. then move to where I need it??
Hawk's Feather
11th of May 2010 (Tue), 10:46
I grew up using center focusing rings and that is the reason that I have gone to the center only. It doesn't mean that it is the right thing to do, but after years of using center focus, press the shutter release to hold that focus, and then making the final adjustment, it has just become natural for me. The main thing is that you are not using all the focusing points and getting an average rather than a spot. You might want to also turn off the autofocus and do a manual focus to see what that does. I do some table top photography of pens and wine stoppers and I often turn off the autofocus when doing those shots since I know they are not going anywhere.
In portraits, if you have a very low depth of field where only one eye will be in focus, get the eye closer to you as the one in focus. Something for you to try is to focus on a spot between the subject's eyes - like the bridge of the nose. This should give you a better chance of having both eyes in focus. If you do this and get both eyes that are out of focus the only thing you can do is move the f-stop to a higher number. I don't know if you are using the "full auto mode" with the girl's picture, but this could be setting your camera to a very low depth of field. If you are, try going to M mode. There you can set your f-stop and shutter speed, and the flash will use those settings when sending the light to the subject. For general flash pictures of the grandkids (inside) I will set the camera to M, shutter speed to around 160, and then the f-stop to between 5.6 and 11 depending on how much I want in focus. The nice thing about the TTL metering is that I can change the f-stop from 5.6 to 11 and not have to make any other change - the camera and flash take care of all of that for me.
Jerry
FelixDeSouze
12th of May 2010 (Wed), 04:55
Thanks again, I have someone on Saturday I'm taking pictures of.. I'll ensure to make note and show you the results :)
Hawk's Feather
12th of May 2010 (Wed), 17:01
I will be looking forward to seeing them.
Jerry
TreyPetty1
17th of May 2010 (Mon), 14:24
How did the Saturday shoot go?
FelixDeSouze
17th of May 2010 (Mon), 15:46
Hey Guys,
Saturday's shoot went well.. Only edited a few so far and these are the best.. SEE HERE (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?p=10197521#post10197521)
C&C most welcome :)
Hawk's Feather
17th of May 2010 (Mon), 18:50
Your focus on the eyes seems pretty good. The first shot was at f6.3, ISO 100, with no flash so the depth of field is less than the second shot, but you have good focus on the face.
My personal preference would be to see a little more white in the first image. I grew up in the era of the Zone VII black and white processing and every black and white print needed to have all zones in an image. Maybe that should be "normal" image - not high contrast or something similar. To me the black and white looks a little flat. Good blacks and shades of gray, but no pure whites. It is something that I still struggle with when I try to convert a color image to black and white. Anyway, your focus looks good to me.
Jerry
FelixDeSouze
18th of May 2010 (Tue), 02:50
Thanks, I still have lots more to learn in the ways of processing and making things work better :) but overall, pleased with the results of the first shoot.
kmk251145
24th of May 2010 (Mon), 19:16
Good start
FelixDeSouze
25th of May 2010 (Tue), 02:30
Good start
Thanks, I stuck another picture on the Amy thread :)
Deep Pocket
26th of May 2010 (Wed), 01:43
Whoa, great work there. Much better than anything then I can come up with and I'm the one with the Sigma 50 1.4 and 100 2.8 + same camera compared to that nifty fifty of yours ;) /feels bad
As for focus point, I usually use the center one -> focus -> move the camera to the side so the eyes aren't dead center.
Do you do a lot of PP on your pictures?
FelixDeSouze
26th of May 2010 (Wed), 02:31
Whoa, great work there. Much better than anything then I can come up with and I'm the one with the Sigma 50 1.4 and 100 2.8 + same camera compared to that nifty fifty of yours ;) /feels bad
As for focus point, I usually use the center one -> focus -> move the camera to the side so the eyes aren't dead center.
Do you do a lot of PP on your pictures?
Thanks, appreciate the comments :)
I was trying the focus on the eyes and then move the camera, sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't.. I think that was due to the lack of a steady hand lol.
I did some PP on these, I smoothed the skin out a bit, made her eyes tand out a bit with the dodge and burn tool, got rid of some stray hairs that were in the way (i know there is a lot of them but I got rid of some key ones) and she used fake tan and had orange hands in a lot of the pictures so I had to reduce that in post.
This shoot alone has helped me with my photoshop skills A LOT!
Deep Pocket
28th of May 2010 (Fri), 00:08
Thanks, appreciate the comments :)
I was trying the focus on the eyes and then move the camera, sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't.. I think that was due to the lack of a steady hand lol.
I did some PP on these, I smoothed the skin out a bit, made her eyes tand out a bit with the dodge and burn tool, got rid of some stray hairs that were in the way (i know there is a lot of them but I got rid of some key ones) and she used fake tan and had orange hands in a lot of the pictures so I had to reduce that in post.
This shoot alone has helped me with my photoshop skills A LOT!
Ah, just keep your shutter at 1/200 with flash and you shouldn't have any problem with camera shake.. I usually do the same PP as you- dodge/burn the eyes skin smoothening, clone stamp to rid of something I don't want, etc. Sometimes I lower the vibrance slightly to play, but then that depends on what look you're going for.
Nice lighting especially. I might go get a strobe actually. I'm thinking of just getting the beginner's Alienbee kit . what do you use?
FelixDeSouze
28th of May 2010 (Fri), 05:26
Nice lighting especially. I might go get a strobe actually. I'm thinking of just getting the beginner's Alienbee kit . what do you use?
I only use a Flashgun strobe - Jessops 360AFD
I'd love an AB kit, don't think they sell them in England though lol. But I guess I will have to get better before I up the price of my kit lol.
JeffreyO
13th of June 2010 (Sun), 23:35
I used to always use manual but in my forties now I'm also using one of the focusing points nearest the eye instead of the center one. Especially if you're using a tripod, I like this because you don't have to move the camera as much. I practice on my cats.
I'm also getting used to using the button on the back for focus and the shutter button for... the shutter. Then I can lock it using the back button and not worry about the shutter button refocusing what I don't want focused if the subject is stationary.
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