Night Shots - Available LIght

[Chenu]

Folks,
Help me! On my Digital Rebel 6.3MP, currently I am shooting in the auto mode. The results are OK, and I am pleased. The fill in light does work out well.;)

if I wanted to take some pictures in the evening under available light how would I do it? I do understand there would be multiple approaches. :confused:
1. I get confused with the set point - should I set the sensitivity high (pretend a high ISO)? Would the image appear OK as 'clicked' without working it on Adobe Photshop?
2. Under normal conditions with a film camera lets say a typical ISO400, f2.8, 1/15 sec works. How wuld I translate this to my digital?
3. If I do want to shoot the skyline, and am willing to take a longer duration shot - 45 seconds at f11. How would I do this?:oops:

Thanks a ton!

[Tapeman]

A few things that have worked for me:

A good tripod is a must.
Skyline shots are nice when you shoot before it gets too dark but the city lights are on.
You can use a normal ISO

Lee Frost has a good bookcalled: TheComplete Guide to Night & Low Light Photography

[piku]

2. Under normal conditions with a film camera lets say a typical ISO400, f2.8, 1/15 sec works. How wuld I translate this to my digital?

Should be about the same I would say. But it'll depend on your lens(es) as well, in my opinion. What kind of lens are you shooting with?

I usually shoot available-light/low-light photos in AV mode / ranging 400-1600 ISO, and just do some post-processing magic w/ noise-ninja. I got a couple that I recently upped on flickr (check my sig for link).

HTH. Good luck.

EDIT: ISO above is mostly handhelds for events and stuff... see pics for examples =)

[scottbergerphoto]

P Mode won't let you go slower then 1/60 sec shutter. You need to use Tv, Av,or M.

[cfcRebel]

As Tapeman said, tripod is important. For skyline at night, I use Av mode, set my aperture between f8 ~ 16, ISO100 or 200. At ISO 400 i start seeing some noticeable noise. Also, i use a cable release to minimize camera shake.

[fetching]

Folks,
Help me! On my Digital Rebel 6.3MP, currently I am shooting in the auto mode. The results are OK, and I am pleased. The fill in light does work out well.;)

if I wanted to take some pictures in the evening under available light how would I do it? I do understand there would be multiple approaches. :confused:
1. I get confused with the set point - should I set the sensitivity high (pretend a high ISO)? Would the image appear OK as 'clicked' without working it on Adobe Photshop?
2. Under normal conditions with a film camera lets say a typical ISO400, f2.8, 1/15 sec works. How wuld I translate this to my digital?
3. If I do want to shoot the skyline, and am willing to take a longer duration shot - 45 seconds at f11. How would I do this?:oops:

Thanks a ton!

hi,

i do alot of night photography. and i'm also technically blonde, so i might be able to help. :D

i shoot on iso 100 or 200 usually anywhere from several seconds to several minutes depending on the ambient light. you don't want to crank the ISO up because that will increase the grain.

get a tripod, and a remote or cable release. you'll need a timer, too. I use a timex stop watch that i can set for any time increment, and it beeps when it finishes. you can use a digital egg timer or watch too, if that's easier.

read the instructions on how to use the timer. i think the canon wireless remote RC-1 will work with your camera and it works well.

use the manual setting. start at f8 and see what kind of shutter speed you get with the light available. if it indicates bulb then you need to guesstimate the time. you can do this just by guessing an exposure (it's digital, so if you don't get it right, who cares?) and check your histogram and LCD after, or set a lower f stop and see if it gives you an actual number to work with. if it does, then you can actually start to calculate what the proper exposure would be. so f5.6 at 30 seconds would be 60 seconds at f8, 120 seconds at f11 and so on. does that make sense?

be sure to use the tripod.

[Headcase650]

Something I do, If the meter indicates bulb bump up the ISO until it gives you the correct time for the shutter. Now that you know the shutter time for say ISO 1600, bump the ISO down to 800 and double the time, then down to 400 double time again, down to 200 double time again. Just do the math until you get the propper shutter time for ISO 200 or 100.

[Chenu]

Thank you all!

That was very kind of you to help with the proper use of 'digital' equip. Sure appeciate it.

[Raj]

In addition to tripod & remote release cable, I use mirror lock up & it does makes a difference. If your subject is far away then try using slower shutter speed by using a wider aperture to balance for exposure. DOF is not really a issue when shooting distant subject. Slower shutter does helps preventing blur to some extent on windy nights etc ...

[RAitch]

you'll need a timer, too. I use a timex stop watch that i can set for any time increment, and it beeps when it finishes. you can use a digital egg timer or watch too, if that's easier.

When I use my cable release, my XT shows the exposure time on the rear display. It counts up second by second... so unless your camera doesn't do the same thing, I'm not sure why you'd need a watch.

Just something to check out maybe.

[fetching]

When I use my cable release, my XT shows the exposure time on the rear display. It counts up second by second... so unless your camera doesn't do the same thing, I'm not sure why you'd need a watch.

Just something to check out maybe.

how would you view that dark screen in the dark without shining a light on it (bad) or turning on the light (bad)?

[fetching]

In addition to tripod & remote release cable, I use mirror lock up & it does makes a difference.


the 300D doesn't have the mirror lock up unless they have the hack installed.

oh, and Chenu, get a decent tripod and head. otherwise your camera won't be stable and you'll get camera shake which will make your image less sharp.

[RAitch]

how would you view that dark screen in the dark without shining a light on it (bad) or turning on the light (bad)?

I've never had a problem. If it was totally dark, you wouldn't have any picture. It doesn't take much light to see it. I've never had a problem.

[Sabina]

This is an interesting thread, especially since I've just begun taking night shots myself. I've been out twice so far, and I go out around 1:30 or 2:00 am. Some of the scenes I shoot are so dark I can't see anything in the viewfinder or LCD screen, but I shoot anyway, and end up with a very cool picture in goldish tones with deep shadow. I've shot the moon too, and it showed as a bright light with long points emerging from it, as though it's a star. Some of my shutter speeds are as long as 15 seconds, so ya,, definately use a tripod!

[RAitch]

This is an interesting thread, especially since I've just begun taking night shots myself. I've been out twice so far, and I go out around 1:30 or 2:00 am. Some of the scenes I shoot are so dark I can't see anything in the viewfinder or LCD screen, but I shoot anyway, and end up with a very cool picture in goldish tones with deep shadow. I've shot the moon too, and it showed as a bright light with long points emerging from it, as though it's a star. Some of my shutter speeds are as long as 15 seconds, so ya,, definately use a tripod!

Oh, there's a backlight button on the XT... although I'd only use that after the shutter's closed to see how long the exposure is if at all.

For the moon, you'll need a short exposure time. If you don't, it'll look like a light. It suprisingly doesn't need to be open long. I know my first shots were blown out.

You can't take a 15s exposure without a tripod... unless your camera is resting on a table or the ground.

This shot was at 1/100s @ f/13.0 w/100ISO
http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=yaq591&noresize=1&nostamp=1 (http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=yaq591&outx=600&noresize=1&nostamp=1)