What do you shoot indoor sports with? My 70-200 2.8 IS at 1600iso was to slow...

[DavidinKS]

I just got a 70-200 2.8 IS lens (I'm using it on my 20D) and was shooting an indoor basketball game (league game at my local community center) and found that shooting wide open at 1600iso was not fast enough to freeze the action. I was only getting around 1/80sec-1/100sec. Is this lens just not fast enough or should I just accept shooting at a higher iso - 3200?

What has been your experience shooting indoor sports? What lens do you use? What ISO do you shoot at?


Thanks!

[pturton]

Using an 85 f/1.8 or 135 f/2 will only give you 1/200 second at 1600 ISO with the lighting you have. Fortunately for me, when shooting volleyball games in our church gym I've been able to get 1/800 second at f/2 with my 85 f/1.8 and this has successfully stopped most action. 1/500 second is probably a minimum shutter speed for indoor sports such as basketball and volleyball.

85 is great if you can get close to the sidelines otherwise a 135 f/2 may be required. The 70-200 IS is great for static subjects in the light available to you but IS does not help with moving subjects.

I use Manual mode after determining the average lighting for the entire play area. Then it is just point and shoot :-)

Paul
http://www.iaw.com/~pturton/

[primoz]

Gee what kinda gym was that? I never had problems shooting at f2.8 and iso 1250-1600 getting times around 1/500 or a bit slower at quite bad lit shool gyms. In real halls with real lights I usually use iso up to 1000 (mostly 800 or lower) to get times between 1/500 and 1/1000. If it's really that bad I guess it's not really some important match and then I guess noone would be too upset if you would use flash. If it's really that bad as you say, then I guess flash is only option.

[AjP]

Gee what kinda gym was that? I never had problems shooting at f2.8 and iso 1250-1600 getting times around 1/500 or a bit slower at quite bad lit shool gyms. In real halls with real lights I usually use iso up to 1000 (mostly 800 or lower) to get times between 1/500 and 1/1000. If it's really that bad I guess it's not really some important match and then I guess noone would be too upset if you would use flash. If it's really that bad as you say, then I guess flash is only option.
lol, they probably save on electric bills, all jim I've in, really really bright

[Headcase650]

You could shoot raw and underexpose by 2 stops and bump the exposure back up in the conversion. Just a thought.

[grego]

Well without having to buy any new lens, unexpose and shoot raw. You can get more stop motion at 1600 and clean that up in post processing.

Now if you are looking at a lens, the 50mm f/1.4 would be ideal if you are on the baselines.

[JBillings]

I regularly shoot indoor with my 20D, 70-200L IS, at ISO 3200. I can usually get up to 1/320 sec at f/2.8. A quick run thru with NeatImage fixes it.

Check some of these images:

http://homepage.mac.com/jeffreybillings/PhotoAlbum18.html

[massi.ra]

Excellent results with the 85 1.8.
You can really stop action with this lens even in low light conditions at ISO 1600.

Here some famous examples from the net:
http://www.wlcastleman.com/equip/reviews/85mm/index.htm

I used it succesfully for basketball and volleyball staying borderline; if you're much far away I reckon the best solution would be the 135 2.0.

[FlyingPete]

Phew that is one dark gym! I shot night time concerts on a slower lens at the same ISO and still get reaonsable shutter speeds.

If you can find one, there is a rare beauty around a certain 200mm f/1.8, that might do the trick!

[Cadwell]

Many sports shooters (myself included) favour fast primes for indoor use. I use the Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 and the Canon EF 50mm f/1.4. Although I don't have it, I believe the Canon EF 135mm f/2.0L is also popular if you need extra reach.