20D + 17-85mm IS USM = Sharp Photos?

[Zeke]

So I've had my setup for a couple of days, been experimenting etc...

I would like to know from all you seasoned D/SLR veterans what I need to do to pull of some really sharp pics using my current setup? I'm not worried about composition or artistic merit - I just want to be able to sleep at night knowing that the equipment I've shelled out for can do the job it's designed to do.

I realise that most pics straight out of the camera will need some sharpening in PS, that's cool. I guess I just would like to know a typical scenario or set of paramaters that would generally equate to a strong chance of high quality images.

Does that make sense?

[Zeke]

sigh...

[remo]

sigh...

Yes, but there are lenses which produce sharper images;)

[Sylvain]

I realise that most pics straight out of the camera will need some sharpening in PS, that's cool. I guess I just would like to know a typical scenario or set of paramaters that would generally equate to a strong chance of high quality images.
Does that make sense?

Zeke, while I am not quite seasoned yet, I have the same setup as you do and find that standard Parameters 1 give me pictures I don't have to post-process. I am not saying that there's nothing better out there but, it is quite good for what I do. See for yourself and let me know if it looks like what you get:
http://www.pbase.com/sylvain/new20d

[AjP]

my 20D + 50 f/1.4 produse incredibly sharp images, so far I didn't see anything like this test serveral L's (not primes) still not close to 50 f/1.4I love this little lense!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Raj]

Zeke, I am not a seasoned DSLR user but IMO what you can do is:
- on camera use parameter 1 which has +1 settings for contrast/color/sharpness. If it is not sufficuient then you can use custom parameters to boost these params further.
- 17-85 is a good lens, it will give you better pics when stopped down a bit, like f8 or so (again this depends on what you are shooting.
- Use MLU when possible. This does makes a difference on image sharpness.

However everthing finally depends on what you are shooting & with that params do change a lot. Above mentioned are just general settings/params. Its much better if you shoot just RAW & adjust everything later to your taste in image editor.

[robertwgross]

- Use MLU when possible. This does makes a difference on image sharpness.


Only on a narrow range of shutter speeds.

It varies from camera to camera, but it might be in the range around 1/8 second.

If your shutter speed is much faster (like 1/60), then mirror slap will happen outside of the shutter period. If your shutter speed is much slower (like 1 sec), then mirror slap will be inconsequential during the shutter period.

---Bob Gross---

[Nabil-A]

No experience with your lens, but some general life savers below.


1.enable Mirror lock in custom functions,
2. Use the standard rule of 1 / (the focal length x 1.6) as your minimum shutter speed - where possible.

3. keep your hand steady, but 2. negates this if you are relatively steady

4. its a common fact that lens produce the best quality / sharpness when closed down something like 3-4 stops from wide open so do this where you can.

5. use a tripod in conjunction with mirror lock of 1. and custom time countdown for those shots where crispness is imperitive.

6. practise..

If i had to choose the most critical aspect of sharp shots (ie as sharp as your lens will allow... it is number 2 and 4.

[Raj]

Only on a narrow range of shutter speeds.

It varies from camera to camera, but it might be in the range around 1/8 second.

If your shutter speed is much faster (like 1/60), then mirror slap will happen outside of the shutter period. If your shutter speed is much slower (like 1 sec), then mirror slap will be inconsequential during the shutter period.

---Bob Gross---

This is new to me , Thanks robert. I usally use MLU for nightshots where exposures are longer than 1 second, I did saw a difference there.
I have been using MLU for my daylight normal shutter speed landscape shots whenever I have tripod with me. Are you saying this makes no difference ?

[Nabil-A]

This is new to me , Thanks robert. I usally use MLU for nightshots where exposures are longer than 1 second, I did saw a difference there.
I have been using MLU for my daylight normal shutter speed landscape shots whenever I have tripod with me. Are you saying this makes no difference ?


Geeeeezz. talk about a mental block !!! here i am sitting thinking MLU,, what is it, why dont i know about it hahahaha... then i realised it was something i already listed... MIRROR LOCK UP..... i think i need a coffee break.

:)

[robertwgross]

Are you saying this makes no difference ?

I stand by my statement.

Mirror slap is the vibration in the camera, either first with the mirror swinging up, or second with the mirror swinging back down again. There are tiny cushions at each end of that travel. However, there is still a little residual vibration that can get back to the sensor. If this were a perfect world, the shutter opening and closing would be completely within the center of the period between mirror up and mirror down. In that case, mirror slap would make zero difference at any time. When you get down to a narrow band of shutter speeds around 1/8 or 1/15 second, the mirror slap can hit you a little.

Mirror slap should make zero difference out at ten seconds, since it lasts for only a small fraction of a second, and that compared to ten seconds is insigificant.

---Bob Gross---

[robertwgross]

One thing that will improve the sharpness of a lot of photos is the use of a remote shutter cable. Lots of users developed a bad habit with previous cameras, and we push the shutter button with too much force. That causes camera motion and hurts the image sharpness over a wide range of shutter speeds.

However, many of us find it inconvenient to use a remote shutter cable all the time. As a result, we have to rely on a careful squeeze of the shutter button as we hold our breath.

---Bob Gross---

[BobL]

One thing that will improve the sharpness of a lot of photos is the use of a remote shutter cable. Lots of users developed a bad habit with previous cameras, and we push the shutter button with too much force. That causes camera motion and hurts the image sharpness over a wide range of shutter speeds.

However, many of us find it inconvenient to use a remote shutter cable all the time. As a result, we have to rely on a careful squeeze of the shutter button as we hold our breath.

---Bob Gross---

I am wading through an excellent book entitled "Image Clarity: High Resolution Photography" by a J B Williams - I've just finished reading the section on the effect of body motions (eg breathing heartbeat, small motions due to the body stabilising itself, etc) on image sharpness. It's convinced me get to keep my tripods even more handy than ever. (Also don't forget about subject motion!)