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syburn
2nd of August 2005 (Tue), 09:41
For use with my 10-22mm on mainly landscapes. What should it be?

PS I have a hood so I dont know if that will effect the choice?

OregonRebel
2nd of August 2005 (Tue), 09:44
Circular polarizer.

Jon
2nd of August 2005 (Tue), 09:48
Neutral density grad. Polarizer effects are localized and strongest at about 90 deg. to the sun, and with that wide a lens you'll get a pronounced variation of the effect across the image. A neutral density grad will let you hold back the sky uniformly, and balance it closer to the land. I like Singh Ray (http://www.singh-ray.com/grndgrads.html). You'll find a hard step easier to learn with, but a soft step may be more versatile.

syburn
2nd of August 2005 (Tue), 10:04
those singh rays look good. I wonder how they are mounted on the camera?

What happens if your horizon is not straight, like a mountian range?

HJMinard
2nd of August 2005 (Tue), 10:09
Both the CP and the ND Grad are excellent suggestions ... I think both should be considered almost mandatory for a good landscape kit. For ND filters, also consider Hitech ... not as expensive as Singh Ray and better quality than Cokin. Both Singh Ray and Hitech make sizes that will fit in Cokin holders.

Jon
2nd of August 2005 (Tue), 10:41
those singh rays look good. I wonder how they are mounted on the camera?

What happens if your horizon is not straight, like a mountian range?

They use Cokin square/rectangular filter holders. With an irregular horizon, a soft step grad may be better. Actually, they make them essentially to order - I've considered ordering one with a curved step.

The soft grads are also handy in evening out the light fall-off from a flash picture (using the darkest part at the base of the image).

Citizensmith
2nd of August 2005 (Tue), 11:33
Polarizer effects are localized and strongest at about 90 deg. to the sun, and with that wide a lens you'll get a pronounced variation of the effect across the image.

Yeah but you can vary the degree of polarization to minimize or accentuate that, and even without one you'd still see color change across the sky on a very wide shot. Basically, if you are aware of the issue it ceases to be a problem as you can control it.

elkootcho
2nd of August 2005 (Tue), 17:34
For ND filters, also consider Hitech ...


How does this package look in terms of cost? I think I may pick this up for my trip to Yosemite.
http://www.2filter.com/prices/htpackages.html

HJMinard
2nd of August 2005 (Tue), 21:24
How does this package look in terms of cost? I think I may pick this up for my trip to Yosemite.
http://www.2filter.com/prices/htpackages.html

That looks like a decent price, depending upon their shipping costs. That's probably slightly less than you'd pay at B&H for the same items.

elkootcho
2nd of August 2005 (Tue), 23:39
Shipping is free for orders over $22. Not a lot of feedback but great ratings so far. http://www.resellerratings.com/seller1138.html

Are screw-in (round) split NDs worth buying or does the inability to raise or lower the gradation make it not worth while? Better to go with the rectangular (cokin P) for the flexablity?

CorruptedPhotographer
3rd of August 2005 (Wed), 07:06
but which one Graduated ND filters or ND filters?

I have this same question, I know that Grad's will allow me to photo hard differences in light like the sun setting (above horizon is bright/below horizon is a little dark), or that silky affect of waterfalls. But what about ND filters?

HJMinard
3rd of August 2005 (Wed), 07:19
Are screw-in (round) split NDs worth buying or does the inability to raise or lower the gradation make it not worth while? Better to go with the rectangular (cokin P) for the flexablity?

In my opinion, you definitely want the rectangular ... you don't want the filter dictating where your horizon needs to be in your composition (middle only with the round grad ND).

HJMinard
3rd of August 2005 (Wed), 07:25
but which one Graduated ND filters or ND filters?

I have this same question, I know that Grad's will allow me to photo hard differences in light like the sun setting (above horizon is bright/below horizon is a little dark), or that silky affect of waterfalls. But what about ND filters?

Actually, you would generally use standard ND filters for the silky waterfall/river effects ... they allow you to use slower shutter speeds in relatively bright light ... and in those types of images it is not common to include the sky (where the grad ND would be utilized).

Both are very useful for their intended purposes, it simply depends upon your needs and which type of images you expect to capture most often. Eventually, you will probably want to have both types, and both will fit in the same Cokin holders.

Additionally, these filters can be stacked and used together in the Cokin holders.

Jon
3rd of August 2005 (Wed), 09:13
but which one Graduated ND filters or ND filters?

I have this same question, I know that Grad's will allow me to photo hard differences in light like the sun setting (above horizon is bright/below horizon is a little dark), or that silky affect of waterfalls. But what about ND filters?

Singh Ray's rectangular grads (hard step) are big enough that they can pretty well double as a straight ND when at maximum shift. I've also stacked them to darken top and bottom of a frame when necessary. You'd use a straight ND for silky water since you want to allow a slow shutter speed. You might want a grad on top of it if you have some sky in the picture as well, though.

CorruptedPhotographer
3rd of August 2005 (Wed), 11:16
HJMinard, you are right, ND filters for that water/water fall silky effect. I made a mistake in thought.

I guess my question is, which to get first? I know the answer is, what do you shoot? or how often will you need each?

So can someone basicallu break down each one's use?

Job, you lost me . What do you mean Singh Ray's ND grads are big enough to double as a straight ND? YOu mean cover the whole front element with the top half of the ND Grad? So it appears or is unofficially a regular ND?

Jon
3rd of August 2005 (Wed), 12:23
HJMinard, you are right, ND filters for that water/water fall silky effect. I made a mistake in thought.

I guess my question is, which to get first? I know the answer is, what do you shoot? or how often will you need each?

So can someone basicallu break down each one's use?

Job, you lost me . What do you mean Singh Ray's ND grads are big enough to double as a straight ND? YOu mean cover the whole front element with the top half of the ND Grad? So it appears or is unofficially a regular ND?

First, yes they're big enough on some lenses, although you may need something other than the "Cokin P" size on the 10-22 come to think of it, or at least to cut down the Cokin holder to prevent vignetting.

Your question was about landscapes, which I took to mean land/water and sky. ND grads would be good here, while a regular ND filter would just force a larger aperture/slower shutter speed. If you want running water scenics, then a general ND would be good (but try to keep the sky out - that'll blow out even with a ND in place). The ND grads are intended to help you preserve detail in the sky while allowing you to expose for the land. Put one in place, stop down to shooting aperture and slide it up/down until you're darkening the sky but not the land.

CorruptedPhotographer
3rd of August 2005 (Wed), 15:12
got it! thanks Jon