Superbike advise needed

[vf1000ride]

I have rented a new lens for the week superbike racing is coming to MidOhio. Was wondering if anybody may have a few pointers for getting the most of my Lens and camera setup. Here's what I have so far.

Canon T1I body, gripped.
canon 28-135is usm
rental canon 100-400L.
Velbon monopod.

I have shot at MidOhio before and know most of the best spots to get clear views past the fencing from the spectator areas but I have never shot with an SLR for a motorcycle race. I have roughly a week to practice with the rental lens and will be going to the vintage races the weekend before superbike. I am just hoping to pick up a few pointers so I don't overthink things and possibly miss good shots for my lack of knowledge.

Thanks for any help you can give the new guy. :-)

[DC Fan]

Motorcycle racing photography is no different than any other form of motorsports or sports photography.

http://www.kevinlillard.com/racing/20090829a0803.jpg

http://www.kevinlillard.com/racing/20090829a0939.jpg

http://www.kevinlillard.com/racing/20090829a1169.jpg

Get a clear field of view, find the target, track the bike, wait for it to fill the frame, push the shutter button. Repeat.

It's more interesting to have a motorcycle coming toward you than away from you.

Never let your guard down because you never known when the unexpected may happen, and you'll get only one chance.

[vf1000ride]

My biggest problem I ran into in previous years was getting the camera to take a good picture. I know that always sounds counter intuitive but I was using an old Minolta Dimage Z-5 point and shoot that really wanted to be a super zoom. I could never get a photo of a high speed object without getting motion blur on the rider. I am hoping most of this was due to the poor camera quality and not something wrong with my technique.

As an example I took these at Mid-O in 2008 and something like this is about the best I could ever get from that Minolta for a moving object. (click for full size)

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii281/vf1000ride/08%20midohio/th_PICT3654.jpg (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii281/vf1000ride/08%20midohio/?action=view&current=PICT3654.jpg)

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii281/vf1000ride/08%20midohio/th_PICT3705.jpg (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii281/vf1000ride/08%20midohio/?action=view&current=PICT3705.jpg)

[DC Fan]

I could never get a photo of a high speed object without getting motion blur on the rider.

Try setting the camera for faster shutter speeds. 1/500 is a good place to start. Even the DiMAGE Z5 had a shutter-priority camera setting where the photographer could set the shutter speed.

The first large example above was taken at 1/500 and the second was at 1/400. For outdoor daylight action photography, 1/1000 should be easy to accomplish and would be useful to stop fast motion. But even with a fast shutter speed, it'll still be necessary to smoothly track the motorcycle in the frame.

[vf1000ride]

I will have to give that a try as both of those photo's I posted where shot at 1/200.

[silvrr]

The first large example above was taken at 1/500 and the second was at 1/400. For outdoor daylight action photography, 1/1000 should be easy to accomplish and would be useful to stop fast motion. But even with a fast shutter speed, it'll still be necessary to smoothly track the motorcycle in the frame.

I agree that you should start with higher shutter speeds but work with pushing that shutter speed down as your skills improve. A 1/1000 shutter speed will more than likely freeze the background, tires/wheels and even the chain. That will give you the look of a bike parked on the track with the rider teetering on top. 1/500 will start to show motion in the wheels and is still pretty high and can still help in masking any tracking errors.

I found 1/320 was pretty easy to get keepers panning, once I got down by 1/160 or 1/125 I started having issues with my panning ability. Youll improve a lot throughout the day, keep checking your screen and see how your shots look. If you are getting alot of keepers at 1/500, push it down to 1/320 or 1/250 and see what you get.

For head on shots and non panning type shots higher shutter speeds are ok, just make sure you are not freezing to much action and loose the sense of motion from the bike.

[mdaniel]

Few general tips. Make sure the camera is in AI servo mode & continuous fire is enabled (as opposed to single shot). The lowest ISO possible is what you want. 200 is usually what I shoot.

If you want that blurred background effect put the camera in TV mode (shutter priority) and start with 160 and work your way down from there. You'll have to pan and rapid fire to get the desired effect (from my experience).

I prefer freezing the action which means shooting with a fast shutter speed. I usually shoot sports in AV (aperture priority) and will often shoot wide open.. Considering the 100-400m is f/3.5-5.6 I'd definitely shoot it wide open!

Don't be afraid to get some candids of folks getting ready between sessions, etc.. Sometimes when you get home & review your pics you'll find those are your favorites..

Good luck & be sure to post up. :cheers:

[Lowner]

Its a sad but true fact that getting good, sharp panning shots takes practise. Lots and lots of it.

I'd also suggest you start with high shutter speeds. This will get you some bankers so you don't go home empty handed, then reduce the shutter speed a step at a time. At each step, work on a smooth panning action that stays glued to the focus point throughout the pan.

[sweeney208]

i usually like to get a lens with a good zoom and try to get in a straight line with their turn so that your head on with them, but with a safe distance. it makes a really great picture if they're turning really tight/low