Lots of info, where to start?

[Munchdog]

I've been reading tons of threads on motorcycle racing photography.

Shooting with a 7D, 70-200 2.8 IS with 1.4 TC

I've been working on panning in mode 2, with IS on primarily. TV mode, AI Servo, ISO usually 200-400 in bright sunlight in the mid-afternoon. Shutter speed anywhere from 1/640 down to 1/200.

I'm just not happy with the results. Maybe my expectations are a bit high with the full sized images? They do not look sharp, when I resize down and crop, they look decent I suppose??

I guess a few questions, is there anything above I can change to make a drastic difference?

I've been shooting single shots, maybe go burst?

Been doing some reading on pre-focusing, but think panning is probably the way to go. Not using a monopod at this time either.

I know it'll take alot of practice and patience, just hoping to eliminate some variables, or correct some basic mistakes I may be making?

Samples attached - critique away!

ISO 400, 1/640, F11, -.03 exposure bias, right at 280mm (wide open - probably too much?) - No post processing

Thanks in advance!

[DC Fan]

Sometimes it takes a large number of frames to get a few good images.

http://www.kevinlillard.com/racing/20090829a0792.jpg

http://www.kevinlillard.com/racing/20090829a0863.jpg

http://www.kevinlillard.com/racing/20090829c0120.jpg

All of the above images were at 1/160, and it took hundreds of frames to get them. They were among the best images out of dozens of sequences of motorcycles, where the shutter was held down and the camera was set to continuous shooting mode. Most of the frames taken at these events were throwaways, but that was no problem because there was no processing or printing cost with a XTi.

Getting good panning results comes from technique, not equipment. The MotoGP images were taken with a Canon 70-300mm image stabilizer lens with full stabilization turned on, while the flat track bike image came from a non-stabilized Tokina 80-400mm lens.

The secret is to have a very smooth tracking technique, to be able to have the target securely in the center of the frame as it passes. That means having plenty of space to move your entire body and pivot to follow the target, and to be able to pick up the target and frame it properly a few seconds before it fills the viewfinder. That's where the continuous shooting mode is important: because pressing a shutter button can introduce some subtle vertical motion to the picture, it's easier to start firing frames before the motorcycle gets to the place where you want it as it makes its closest approach.

The lenses were set at AI Servo continuous autofocus.

Selection of shutter speed depends on the target's pace across the frame, and it's never the same twice. 1/100-1/200 are good speeds to try at the start, to see what will work.

A handful of photographers are able to accomplish that goal with only single presses of the shutter button, but they rarely post images on this forum...

[Tessa]

Yes, like DC Fan said with panning it's mainly about smooth tracking, finding a suitable shutter speed and using continuous shooting mode - with slow shutter speeds and fast moving objects you will get plenty of OOF shots, but more then enough good shots too and those are the ones that count.

These were taken at 1/200.

http://www.rallifotod.eu/album266/hipokas404.jpg

http://www.rallifotod.eu/album266/hipokas146.jpg

[Munchdog]

Ok, seems like one key area I'm missing is continuous shooting mode... I'll give it a shot!

[KennyG]

Continuous shooting isn't necessary. It is used mainly by people who do not have the skill level or confidence to get the shot with just one shutter action.

There are two main shots, moving towards/away and passing you. For shots moving towards you (or away) you should give AI Servo time to "settle" before you take the shot. A shutter speed of 320 is normal for your two shots above and you are correct in using the ISO to keep the right shutter speed / aperture. AI Servo is a predictive focus system which intelligently "guesses" where the subject will be when the shot is captured, so the more time you give it to make the right guess the better. You can use IS mode 1 for these shots as they are not panning.

Pan shots are mainly where the subject passes you and you capture it as it is opposite you. I'll not go into the complication of three quarter pans to keep it simple. For a pan shot you pick up the subject as it comes into view, follow it until it is opposite you, capture the image and follow through with the camera in the same way you would a tennis shot. The better you get at it the slower a shutter speed you can use. Use IS mode 2, AI Servo and be very smooth on the action.

You only need a monopod when the lens is too heavy for hand-held shooting, which usually starts with a 300 2.8 and is essential with a 600.

It is all a matter of practice, improving your own skills and coming to terms with limitations of the camera and lens.

[Tessa]

Continuous shooting isn't necessary. It is used mainly by people who do not have the skill level or confidence to get the shot with just one shutter action.
No need to be insulting. Just because someone uses continuous shooting that does not mean they are incompetent, it just means they use an option their gear gives to get a better chance of a good outcome.

[sigma pi]

No need to be insulting. Just because someone uses continuous shooting that does not mean they are incompetent, it just means they use an option their gear gives to get a better chance of a good outcome.
http://www.adorama.com/alc/article/Panning-Adorama-Photography-TV


But to the OP I looks like you are taking them too early, look at everyone elses pics they are almost 90* to the rider

your first one looks like no panning at all because of the BG. Just wait til the wheels are 90* to you :D

[Munchdog]

Good points... I think we're taking them early outta the corner to get some lean still. I'll work on some different track corners tomorrow. Thanks for the ideas guys!

[sigma pi]

Good points... I think we're taking them early outta the corner to get some lean still. I'll work on some different track corners tomorrow. Thanks for the ideas guys!
OH and try shooting normal traffic to practice

to get them full lean you have to be near the apex not down the road from it. Be on the inside of the turn like you were on the original photos :D

GOOD LUCK STAY SAFE!! :D

[Munchdog]

I get full lean everytime actually, that's me on the bike... In these examples the gf is behind the lens :)

[sigma pi]

I get full lean everytime actually, that's me on the bike... In these examples the gf is behind the lens :)
nice duc!

[Lowner]

The samples you have posted are perfectly reasonable, just shot in impossibly contrasty light. If you shot them in RAW, they can be improved in post processing. The solution for the next time is think about the light when choosing where to shoot from.

I don't like burst mode myself, but by all means try it and see how it works for you.