Ok, so I bit the bullet...

[Justin Horne]

... and bought the $130 TC-80N3 timer thing for the 20D. Very nice I might add. I originally wasn't going to buy it, but the 30 second limit and my astrophototography bug got to me... So, plunked down the money, and I might say, it's really nice!
The Perseids in a week will be cool now.:D
So, for doing time lapse photography, what actual camera mode do I put the camera on? P? I'm saying I want the camera to meter and choose the settings, I only want a picture every (how many seconds?). So would it be camera on P, 100 exposures, x second delay, right?

Thanks.:)

PS. The camera is outside my window taking 2 minute sky photographs. Wow, now I feel lazy.

EDIT: Hmm, I now realize this should go in the accessories forum. Can anyone move it?
Whoops.:d

[FlyingPete]

So, for doing time lapse photography, what actual camera mode do I put the camera on? P? I'm saying I want the camera to meter and choose the settings, I only want a picture every (how many seconds?). So would it be camera on P, 100 exposures, x second delay, right?

Depends on what you are shooting, how long and what is going to be used for. Some movies I have seen made out of time lapse photography have the odd annoying frame that s exposed differently for what ever reason than the rest. If there is not going to be much variation in the light levels during the duration of the exposures, I would meter it in manual (M) instead of program (P).

I used to do time lapse shots on my G3, as it had a intervalometer setting built in, the biggest issue I had was the battery running flat!

[lancea]

What you propose sounds right. See also the last bit in the review at http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/tc-80n3.shtml. As FlyingPete points out - changes in lighting can make auto exposure less than attractive for a sequence.

For stars and satellites I just set the camera in B mode, even when the camera can make a long enough exposure. It's just more convenient so change the duration in one place.

[Jon]

For time-lapse, you can use whatever mode you want to, be it P, Tv, Av, M, . . . as long as the shutter speed's faster than the interval between photos. I'd think that unless you're going to be photographing something that'll be experiencing a change in light levels you'd want to use M.

[DwightMcCann]

Justin, do you have a laptop or a computer close enough to your window to attach by USB cable? If so, you might want to consider using the Timer software that comes with your camera as part of the Viewing software. I recently shot 2600 frames, one minute apart, in three series of images with my 20D and laptop. If you need some pointers using that method, let me know.

[Hellashot]

I'm only guessing, but the camera probably won't be able to properly meter for stars and give the proper result. You'll probably have to use the bulb setting and use different settings and use M mode.

[Justin Horne]

Justin, do you have a laptop or a computer close enough to your window to attach by USB cable? If so, you might want to consider using the Timer software that comes with your camera as part of the Viewing software. I recently shot 2600 frames, one minute apart, in three series of images with my 20D and laptop. If you need some pointers using that method, let me know.
Nope, it's not that close... Thanks, good idea though...

[Justin Horne]

I'm only guessing, but the camera probably won't be able to properly meter for stars and give the proper result. You'll probably have to use the bulb setting and use different settings and use M mode.
And yes, you're right, it really won't meter much at all.. Like Lancea said, I use bulb on that. Tell you what though, we have more light pollution than I knew about...:(