Night time action shots

[ShelleyG]

I referee flat track motorcycle racing and I also go to a lot of different tracks to watch. I want to be able to take pictures of the races in both day time and at night. I have tried a couple of times but I don't know where to start with the manual settings. I am new to a DSLR camera and I was using night portrait and I attempted program mode with less than impressive results. Either all of the bikes were blurry or one was semi-blurry and the rest were a mess (like the attached photo). In day light I still didnt get a clear image. I could get VERY clear pictures on my P&S but I really dont want to resort back to that.

I have a Canon Rebel XS with the 18-55 IS kit lens.

I was told by one person that my camera/lens just can't do it. I spoke to someone else and they said my camera/lens is quite capable of taking clear race photos at night.

Any advice on where I should start?

[trancerem]

you need : fast action camera + fast action lens ( f 2.8 - f 1.4 )
you can do with your camera : highest iso possible, manual 1/60, and panning .

[ShelleyG]

OK I will try the high ISO and 1/60 shutter. Thanks

[sweeney208]

it looks like youll be alright with a faster shutter speed. but remember the faster your shutter speed the darker the picture.

[ShelleyG]

I tried taking pictures again this week.

I used fully manual settings (go me, I just into it for the first time). If I remember correctly, my settings were : ISO 1600, 5.6f (that is the lowest I could go) and a shutter of around 1/60 though I was playing with it and was down at 1/25 sometimes. It took me a while to figure out with combination would work, but I did notice that the higher my ISO and the lower my f number, the brighter the picture.

The photos turned out better....much better. But the night ones are still very dark. I am impressed with the dusk ones...you guys might not be, but I am :)

The first was taken at about 10:00pm and the second at 8:30pm. The lighting on the track is hard to deal with because it has street lights above, so the lighting is very concentrated in spots and not in others.

Someone suggested I get a 50mm f1.4 lens. Now does this mean it has a fixed zoom and fixed f number?

Is there a way I was take better night pictures without buying another lens? Using a flash is NOT an option, as it blinds the riders as they go by.

[DC Fan]

Any advice on where I should start?

Fast lens and high ISO. From a T2i and a Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 lens:

http://www.kevinlillard.com/racing/20100630c0563.jpg

Focal Length: 200.0mm
Aperture: f/2.8
Exposure Time: 0.0050 s (1/200)
ISO equiv: 3200
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: program (Auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No
Color Space: sRGB


http://www.kevinlillard.com/racing/20100710a0259.jpg

Camera Maker: Canon
Focal Length: 200.0mm
Aperture: f/2.8
Exposure Time: 0.0050 s (1/200)
ISO equiv: 6400
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: program (Auto)
White Balance: Manual
Flash Fired: No
Color Space: sRGB


Unfortunately, the conditions described in this thread are situations where equipment makes a difference. Good thing that the Tamron lens and Canon body aren't desperately expensive by photographic standards.

[ShelleyG]

I don't need a zoom lens, as all of the tracks that I go to, I have access to the middle of the track, so I can stand as close or as far back as I want to. Unfortunately, the races are almost always at night and my lens just seems like it cant cut it. I need a lens with a bigger aperture.

[DC Fan]

I don't need a zoom lens, as all of the tracks that I go to, I have access to the middle of the track, so I can stand as close or as far back as I want to. Unfortunately, the races are almost always at night and my lens just seems like it cant cut it. I need a lens with a bigger aperture.

Brief explanation: the larger a lens' maximum aperture and the higher a camera's maximum useful ISO, the less light you need to capture a useful image and the faster the shutter speed.

From the sample images you've posted, which both show a focal length around 50mm, there's an inexpensive solution available: the Canon 50mm f/1.8 II lens. (http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-50mm-f-1.8-II-Lens-Review.aspx) At its maximum aperture, the f/1.8 lens can send far more light to the camera than the lens you're using, making available light action pictures possible at night. And this Canon lens has an agreeably low price. (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-USA/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html)It's a purchase that would easily let you accomplish what you want with your camera.

In the meanime, it wouldn't hurt to check some online sources to learn about cameras, light and exposure, (http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/fototech/apershutter/index.htm) so you can get an understanding of how these factors work and how to anticipate a camera's performance limits.

[ShelleyG]

I know that I need a lens with a lower f number and that the 50mm lens could change my max ISO as well. I was just pointing out that I don't need the zoom :)

That is the lens I looked at today :) Unfortunately, cash is a bit of a issue right now so I need to wait a couple of weeks or months until I can get this.

Another thing I love about it, is it doesn't move to zoom, so I cant get dirt from the race track inside it.

[Bosscat]

That 50mm 1.8 is not going to be able to focus fast enough to track a fast moving object at night under the lights IMO.

The 85mm 1.8 is a much better option for under the lights shooting IMO.

[ShelleyG]

That lens is $420, compared to $100. I just can't do it. I'll stick with day time photography

[NC Ghost Hunter]

Shelley, how far are you standing from the riders in #5? Check into a used EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM (+/- $230) and pick up a Gary Fong puffer diffuser (-$20). I get useable results when shooting in a lower light enviroment. I know track lighting usually leaves alot to be desired. Just remember if you are closer than 75' to the track shoot at 90 degrees and past.

I usually shoot in manual after the sun get low and the shawdows make shooting in AP sketchy. Buy the end of the night i am at ISO !600 around 35-70mm , 1/200ths depending on the dust. If its real bad I switch to my 70-200mm 2.8L st at f/2.8, 200-250 iso800-1600, 560EXII set to around -2/3. If the dust is still showing up drop the flash, go to iso 1600 @ 1/160th and brighten in post.

[ShelleyG]

I didnt take the fifth picture :)

For the EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM - I think that the 3.5 isnt low enough.

What is a puff diffuser? I googled it and cant see what it is.

[Jim M]

I think the 50mm would work for you. It may not be the fastest focusing lens in Canon's arsenal, but it should be able to handle your task. I have used a 50mm 1.8 for drag race photography at night and it produced reasonable results. I was using flash, but the focus was still in the same unspectacular light that it would have been without flash. I use AI Servo with only the center focusing spot active.

[Bosscat]

I have tried the 50mm 1.8 and a friend tried the 50mm 1.4 at a much better lit track with Sprint Cars and neither could focus fast enough to get the job done.

[Veemac]

...What is a puff diffuser? I googled it and cant see what it is.
It's a diffuser (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/522116-REG/Gary_Fong_PUF_RETAIL.html)for your on-camera flash, made by Gary Fong. Used outdoors with no surfaces to bounce off of, it's primary accomplishment will be to reduce the output of your flash (making your pictures even dimmer) and eat up your camera's batteries faster. Go into the flash sub-forum here and do a search for "Fong" - you'll find plenty of reading. :)

The 50mm 1.8 would be worth a try - it's less than $100, and you'll most likely find plenty of other uses for it anyways even if it doesn't end up getting the job done at the track. Also, if the track's lighting varies (which is pretty common), try to shoot on the brightest portions of the track.