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Recommendations for a good filter... version: waterfalls

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Thread started 14 Feb 2012 (Tuesday) 11:24   
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JersFocus
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I was wondering, what you more experienced photogs would suggest for a filter to be used in daylight that allows for longer exposure time.

Basically that one that creates that dreamy or silky waterfall effect best.

Post #1, Feb 14, 2012 11:24:27


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gonzogolf
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What you want is a Neutral Density (ND) filter. The strength you need depends on when/how you are going to be using it. The silky effect can be achieved with exposures of just a few seconds, but on a bright day that may require as much as a 10 stop filter. What is your budget for this?

Post #2, Feb 14, 2012 11:27:21




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SpeedyGoo
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lee ND filters or welding glass depening on how far you wanted to go
if your looking for a cheaper alternative you can go for cokin P system

Post #3, Feb 14, 2012 11:28:07




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MCAsan
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On my 5DII I first drop to ISO 50. If that is not enough speed reduction, I add my Fader variable neutral density (VND) filter and dial in as much light drop as I need. I believe Kenko just introduced their own VND filters.

Post #4, Feb 14, 2012 11:32:32 as a reply to SpeedyGoo's post 4 minutes earlier.


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MNUplander
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Most of the time, Ive not had a problem creating that effect using nothing more than ISO 100 and my polarizer (2-3 stops)...but I dont typically shoot landscapes during the middle of the day. You really only need to slow your shutter down to about 1 second or maybe even a bit faster to get this effect depending on the speed of the water.

If you insist on shooting mid-day or if you really want more exposure time, you might need a bit stronger ND filter - maybe anywhere from 3-10 stops depending on how bright it is and if you're using it combined with a polarizer.

Post #5, Feb 14, 2012 11:40:53


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Borryking
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If I can add to the comment above: the CPL option does help get the effect where you would be stuck without it. The only issue I have found is that it is often necessary to stop the camera down to f22 or thereabouts to expose correctly at ISO 100. I have noticed a huge difference in image quality using a 10-stop ND as it has allowed me to run the camera at f16 or larger aperatures (i.e. much closer to the sweet spot).

Post #6, Feb 14, 2012 20:40:01


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MNUplander
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Borryking wrote in post #13899336external link
If I can add to the comment above: the CPL option does help get the effect where you would be stuck without it. The only issue I have found is that it is often necessary to stop the camera down to f22 or thereabouts to expose correctly at ISO 100. I have noticed a huge difference in image quality using a 10-stop ND as it has allowed me to run the camera at f16 or larger aperatures (i.e. much closer to the sweet spot).

Probably true since it is probably brighter where you live in Australia. Here in Minnesota and shooting in the morning and evening, Im able to get shutter speeds of around 1 second or more at f11-f16, ISO 100 and my CPL. The OP will have to consider this since their environment is likely closer to mine since they are in Canada.

Post #7, Feb 15, 2012 10:33:10


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JersFocus
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Under $100 is what im thinking, for budget.


And ill be shooting these water falls in the rockies so, it tends to be really sunny.

Post #8, Feb 15, 2012 12:12:18


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gonzogolf
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JerInCanada wrote in post #13902618external link
Under $100 is what im thinking, for budget.


And ill be shooting these water falls in the rockies so, it tends to be really sunny.

If you are serious about doing good water motion shots, you might want to focus on doing them when the light is best. The middle of the day is the worst, not only because you need a much stronger filter, but also because your light is going to be hard and contrasty. Then ND filter reduces the light, but it doesnt improve it. Given your budget, you probably want to shoot them early and late and get a 3 or 4 stop ND filter.

Post #9, Feb 15, 2012 13:20:41




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ralff
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Live in the mountains of NC and waterfalls are one of my favorite subjects and only have a 2X ND and a polarizer, never needed more. If you want to really do it justice, follow the advice above......shoot when the light is right!

Post #10, Feb 18, 2012 04:30:59 as a reply to gonzogolf's post 2 days earlier.


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gremlin75
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A good CPL is a must. As well as getting rid of reflections it also reduces the light by about 2 stops. After that a couple ND filters in different stops

Post #11, Feb 18, 2012 20:12:19




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JersFocus
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Same pale blue dot as you.
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OK, so i did some readin on filters and have decided they are important to me.

I have changed my budget to $300.

Do you guys think a CPL and a ND 3 stop will be good enough? What do you think about the adjustable ND.. (http://www.bhphotovide​o.com ...1_77mm_Fader_ND_Mar​k.htmlexternal link)

If I got a good budget CPL, and the adjustable, then some ring to step up my 52mm and 67mm to 77mm...do you think that would be a good start? I am kinda working blind, but I read Hoya was decent and cheaper.

Post #12, Feb 20, 2012 20:55:07


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gremlin75
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JerInCanada wrote in post #13932666external link
OK, so i did some readin on filters and have decided they are important to me.

I have changed my budget to $300.

Do you guys think a CPL and a ND 3 stop will be good enough? What do you think about the adjustable ND.. (http://www.bhphotovide​o.com ...1_77mm_Fader_ND_Mar​k.htmlexternal link)

If I got a good budget CPL, and the adjustable, then some ring to step up my 52mm and 67mm to 77mm...do you think that would be a good start? I am kinda working blind, but I read Hoya was decent and cheaper.

With any ND filter you have to be careful of color cast. Cheaper ND (like cokin) tend to have more of a cast then higher end ND's. So just keep that in mind while looking at ND's.

The variable are nice because you get multiple stops in one filter but the great ones are VERY expnsive. I've never used one but people who do use them seem to love them (I use square ND's and rectangular vari-ND's)

For CPL you, once again, get what you pay for. B+W is a great brand. Go with one that has MRC

Post #13, Feb 21, 2012 05:16:14




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MNUplander
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JerInCanada wrote in post #13932666external link
OK, so i did some readin on filters and have decided they are important to me.

I have changed my budget to $300.

Do you guys think a CPL and a ND 3 stop will be good enough? What do you think about the adjustable ND.. (http://www.bhphotovide​o.com ...1_77mm_Fader_ND_Mar​k.htmlexternal link)

If I got a good budget CPL, and the adjustable, then some ring to step up my 52mm and 67mm to 77mm...do you think that would be a good start? I am kinda working blind, but I read Hoya was decent and cheaper.

Yes, an ND3 + CPL should be plenty, IMO. Im not a fan of the adjustable ND filters for the sole reason that they're usually thick enough to cause vignetting. I would also buy the filters in the size of your largest lens and by step rings to fit your smaller lenses to avoid vignetting.

Stacking filters causes problems with - yep, guessed it - vignetting as well. You may want to consider getting the BW muti coated CPL first and just trying it where you are and see if its enough. If not, add one of the 4x4 panel ND filters and just hold it in front of the lens with the CPL mounted.

Post #14, Feb 21, 2012 08:29:39


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JersFocus
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I went with B+W 77mm (COATED) #110 (ND 3.0) FILTER - BW110C7 (125$), and Hoya 77mm FILTER INTRDCTN KIT (UV/CP/WARM) - HOFIK77 (55$).

That should be a good start, thanks for the help. Didnt want to spend to much until I know I am getting things I need. Also got a few step up rings...52mm-77mm, 67mm-77mm etc, some hoods and a 7 million dollar home camera bag...Man that BHphoto is scary. I am glad I stayed out of the lens area!:shock:

Post #15, Feb 21, 2012 09:12:26 as a reply to MNUplander's post 42 minutes earlier.


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