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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 211
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if i number and sign a print what are the conventions?
where - front back gutter matt? how - just start with 001? and name? what is usually done...j |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,206
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From what I've seen in art galleries, photographs are usually mounted on a mat, and the signature is on the mat itself, most often in the lower right, but sometimes lower left. The title (if any) is printed opposite the signature.
I feel strongly that you should not number your prints (i.e. "34/300"), unless you have actually destroyed the negative or digital file, and no more prints will ever be made of that image. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 211
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thanks
i was thinking that numbering was an incremented ever increasing sequence number so that it could inventoried and tracked or called a limited edition i do not like a visible signature but do like the idea of personalizing the print i guess i will use the back of the matt or if mounted the backing board however, this does leave the possibility of having copies made easily ... |
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#4 |
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Goldmember
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Leeds, UK
Posts: 2,252
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I use a very sticky metallic label that goes over the sealing at the back of the frame. It is impossible to open the frame without destroying the label. This label carries all the usual details. You can get paper versions with the same adhesive that can not be peeled off without damage.
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Ken Professional Motorsport Photographer 2 x 1D MK-II, 7D, 17-40L, 24-70L, 70-200 2.8L IS, 100-400L, 300 2.8L IS, 500 4.0L IS, 85 1.8, 50 1.4, 1.4 & 2.0 MK-II TC. |
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#5 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 46
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Quote:
From what I have been told numbering photos is worthless. This was done back in the day because the first few prints normally had better color and then at some point they would add color again. This meant that you wanted one at the point where they added color again since it looked better. I think this was more of a press style printer then the printers we have today where every print looks the same. Saying that I would think it would go on the matt lower right. |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 211
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kenny
whats your source for the metallic labels is there an avery number or something i have been making my own wooden frames and mounting using precut matts from framingsupplies.com the matt sealing tape i have been using is a real pain in the butt - the backing it hard to peel off here is a frame pic (ignore the poor matt color) http://www.johncastor.com/canon%2Dforum/8x10-webv2.jpg http://www.johncastor.com/canon%2Dforum/11x14webv2.jpg any tips on all that are appreciated ... |
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#7 |
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Member
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jonnyhorizon
I really like your frames.
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JX |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 211
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thanks
i sell a few without pictures sm/med/lg matt size 8/10-11/14-16-20 70.00/80.00/90.00 plus shipping each one is different so the photos are aprox ...j |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Guelph, ON
Posts: 727
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Some right answers here some wrong.
Signing is always done on the photo itself, never on the matte. The reason for this is because the photo will last but the matt can be replaced. When you print the photo simply make sure there is white space on the outside of the print. Do not completely cover up the white when you matte the photo. Leave a white border with extra room at the bottom for the signature. If you don't want it visible sign the back of the photo (only use archaival materials) and put the info on the back of the frame, like KennyG's suggestion. If you do choose to sign the front only sign it in pencil. If the person can see the signature for a distance it is too big or too visible. The ordering that I see most common is (from left to right): numbering, print name and artist name (corner, center, corner). The numbering isn't necessary if the print is not a limited run. As was stated above print numbers don't matter with photographs. The only advantage is a big one, the idea of a limited run raises the value of your work. I think that it is perfectly valid and a good idea.
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Glass and plastic |
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,891
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Quote:
An artist created poster composite of Sarah Fisher, an IRL driver a couple of years ago. He did a pencil sketch of her from my photos. He did sign it and numbered it #1. Now if he wants to do reproductions of it, as I understood him, he will start off with 2/100. That will signify that there is a limited run of 200. He did say the bad thing about doing that was, if it is real popular your done at 200. You can't do another run because people who purchased the first run are under the impression that you will only do 200 total. In my opinion your better off not to number them, maybe signing is ok. |
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Guelph, ON
Posts: 727
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I was just over at a photographer's house (and good friend). He has a few of his photos up in the house that are signed on the matte. I asked him why and he didn't really know or have a good reason. The galleries that he shows in just have him sign the back. The local artshop and framing place say that you should never sign on the matte though.
Maybe I was wrong, who knows! Vince
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Glass and plastic |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,206
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You don't sign the actual print because anything that you use to sign with is not going to be archival. Back in the days of darkrooms and chemical processing, a large part of your workflow had to do with washing out residual chemicals that would eventually stain the print if they were left in. In fact, you're not even supposed to handle a finished print because of the acid in your hands. Therefore, a finished print would be mounted permanently on an archival mat, then the mat would be signed. Today, of course, we have archival pens, but the tradition of signing on the mat only continues.
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#13 | |
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Goldmember
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