Macro newb

[Erik_L]

Hello. I used to be able to take extreme close-ups with my old PnS cameras, but am unable to with an SLR. I would like to purchase some lens spacers (apparently that helps) to get my closer to my subject. based on the lenses I have (50 1.8, 18-55, 28-135) which spacer(s) should I get? how many? would a close-up filter help?

Thanks.

[LamontSanders]

Buy a dedicated macro lens if you are very interested in macro photography. There are many options out there (heck, I sent you a PM about one).

[PacAce]

Originally Posted by Erik_L

Hello. I used to be able to take extreme close-ups with my old PnS cameras, but am unable to with an SLR. I would like to purchase some lens spacers (apparently that helps) to get my closer to my subject. based on the lenses I have (50 1.8, 18-55, 28-135) which spacer(s) should I get? how many? would a close-up filter help?

Thanks.

Canon and Kenko make several extension tubes for lenses of different focal lengths.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search...tialSearch=yes

The extension tubes do not alter the optical properties of your lenses whereas the close-up filters do. My choice would be to go the extension tube route.

The extension tubes are nice because they're not as expensive as dedicated macro lenses. However, they can be a pain if you need to use the same lens for both macro shots and regular shots, for example, shooting landscapes. When you have the tube on the lens, you are limited to close distance shooting only. If you need to use the lens for both macro and normal shooting within the same shooting session and don't want to be hassled with removing and attaching the extension tube, a macro lens would be the better choice.

[Erik_L]

What makes a macro lens a macro lens? my 28-135 focuses just as closely as most 100+ mm macro lenses...

[paddler4]

A true macro lens focuses close enough to get 1:1 magnification, that is, the image on the sensor is the same size as the object. They typically have other optical properties too, such as a flatter focus, but the magnification is the real distinction. Most zooms that are called 'macro' don't come close to this.

[Temma]

One alternative to extension tubes or a macro lens is a reverse ring which screws into the filter threads on the far end of the lens, allowing you to attach the lens backward. These rings are EXTREMELY inexpensive (typically under $10 on Ebay).

The drawback to reverse rings is that you lose all but manual focusing control of the lens. Also depth of field tends to be extremely shallow. At the same time, you can use your old manual lenses with their manual exposure controls.

Here are a few recent shots I made with a Rebel Xt with the 18-55mm kit lens reversed:

A .38 Special cartridge case

A memory module, front

A memory module, back

[TSY87]

yep, i just bought a reversing ring to attaching my 50 1.8 to my 100mm macro. the macro ability is going to be out of this world!! haha... i tested it by just holding the lenses together.

[Temma]

Originally Posted by TSY87

yep, i just bought a reversing ring to attaching my 50 1.8 to my 100mm macro. the macro ability is going to be out of this world!! haha... i tested it by just holding the lenses together.

Actually, that's a similar but different concept. A conventional reversing ring has bayonet (or whatever your body uses) attachment points on one side and male threads on the other to screw into the end of the lens where the filter mounts.

I've never tried your method, although I've heard it works well also.

[TSY87]

Originally Posted by Temma

Actually, that's a similar but different concept. A conventional reversing ring has bayonet (or whatever your body uses) attachment points on one side and male threads on the other to screw into the end of the lens where the filter mounts.

I've never tried your method, although I've heard it works well also.

hmm interesting.... Why is that called a reversing ring if the lenses are "mounted" in the correct orientation?

but yeah, based on my handheld tests, the magnification is quite insane. The problem is the working distance is very very small.

[Temma]

Originally Posted by TSY87

hmm interesting.... Why is that called a reversing ring if the lenses are "mounted" in the correct orientation?

but yeah, based on my handheld tests, the magnification is quite insane. The problem is the working distance is very very small.

My understanding of your method is that the lenses are joined at their objectives pointing at each other, with one of them attached to the body as usual. I've had a reverse ring for my Minolta XG1 35mm SLR for more than twenty years. I'd only heard of the two lenses pointing at each other method in the last month or two.

[TSY87]

Originally Posted by Temma

My understanding of your method is that the lenses are joined at their objectives pointing at each other, with one of them attached to the body as usual. I've had a reverse ring for my Minolta XG1 35mm SLR for more than twenty years. I'd only heard of the two lenses pointing at each other method in the last month or two.

nvm what i said before, you're right. I guess there are 2 ways to "reverse" macro.

Im still waiting on my reversing ring but i will post some pix when i get it.

[Temma]

Originally Posted by TSY87

nvm what i said before, you're right. I guess there are 2 ways to "reverse" macro.

Im still waiting on my reversing ring but i will post some pix when i get it.

You will REALLY need a tripod, especially at the very slow shutter speeds. Being able to shoot straight down really comes in handy.

Just because you don't have a nice [and expensive] tripod doesn't mean that you can't achieve this. With about $5usd in materials, I turned a crappy $30.00 Sunpak tripod into a $45.00 somewhat less crappy Sunpak tripod.

I had previously screwed the pan and tilt head to the bolt on the cap on the bottom of the center tube, but this doesn't work at the close focusing distances mandated by the reverse ring. I tried removing the cap and inverting the center post, but it didn't have nearly enough downward travel.

I went to the hardware store and bought a length of 1/4" threaded rod and a long 1/4" nut drilled all the way through and threaded. I screwed the nut onto the bolt at the top (now the bottom) of the center post. I then screwed the threaded rod into the other end of the nut. When I screwed the pan and tilt head to the bottom end of the threaded rod, I could then attach the camera to the head, pointing straight down with plenty of downward travel for focusing. The large difference in diameter between the rod and the inside of the center tube made the assembly kind of shaky. I therefor cut off a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe to just fit over the length of the rod so that the pan and tilt head could be tightened down, holding the pipe tightly in place, and preventing lateral movement in the center tube. I think the total expenditure for materials was around $5.00usd.

You'll also want to buy or make yourself (I made mine) a remote shutter release. I saved about $10.00usd by making mine from plans I found on the web.

[LordV]

I'd get a set of Kenko ext tubes and use them with the 50mm lens - will give over 1:1 magnification with all the tubes. If you get hooked on macro shooting then the tubes can be used with a macro lens to take the mag to 2:1.
Brian v.

[TSY87]

^^
nice handywork!! yeah i know what you mean about needing a tripod. Either that or ill just overwhelm the subject with my speedlight! haha

I dont see any way of using my 100 macro + reversed 50 1.8 ever working on bugs, but for stationary things, it should prove to be pretty sweet.

[Erik_L]

good info. I need to see pics of the piggy backed lenses and links to the reversing rings!